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shibumi

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Posts posted by shibumi

  2. Posted · Edited by shibumi
    Attach photos properly

    t4bVvDi.jpg911jEnO.jpgrDBmPxO.jpgJust an update:

    It turns out the dripping isn't due to any choke in the drainage pipe. There are multiple drainage "channels" in the structure of a FCU (at least for my Daikin model). These channels are responsible for routing the water to the drainage pipe. For my situation, there are cracks in one of my FCU channels & since water always choose the easiest way out, the water begin "exiting" these cracks instead of routing nicely to the drainage pipe's entrance. The cracks are actually quite tiny hence the dripping isn't regular (once the accumulated water drains out via the crack, its water level dips) , & also doesn't occur immediately after powering on the FCU (the accumulated water needs to hit a certain water level before it can seep out the cracks). Here are the photos of the cracks...

  3. Posted

    On 15/08/2016 at 4:50 PM, w7_lee said:

    Will be easier if the front cover of the fan coil is removed. It will be easier to locate the drainage hose that is connected to the drip tray. The other end of this drain hose will go to the drainage pipe and end in your toilet.

    I attach what I have in my home. In the picture, I have disconnect the drainage hose from the drip tray and insert a blue pneumatic tube just to extend it. I am using the blue tube simply because it's external diameter is equal to the internal diameter of the drainage hose.

    I normally pour bleach down the drain pipe and let it be for 15 minutes. Go to the toilet & you will smell the bleach and see bleach exit the drain pipe. (If you can't smell bleach or see it, probably it is choked) Then I pour warm water thru it and wait another 15 minutes. Then I normally just blow into the blue tube. If there is a choke, you will have a tough time blowing. If the drainage is not choke, it will be easy. My drain pipe from bedroom to toilet is at least 20 meters and I had difficulty blowing thru it on my first DIY cleaning. After numerous breath, the gels in the drain pipe finally exit and it was easy to blow into the piping.

    Now I clear it this way every 6 months and have no problem.

    And if you have a wet & dry vacuum cleaner, vacuuming it (from the toilet end) works too.

     

     

    I'll see if I can sneak some photos with the front cover removed (during the next round of my ac-servicing; I've someone coming to service the FCU's every 4 mths).

    I've also more/less pin-point the drainage of the FCUs in my apartment to end/drain into the sewage? pipe beneath the floor-traps of my toilets. In each floor-trap, there are 2 pipes (total of 4 for 4 FCUs) that exit sideways into the sewage drainage. Now I finally know why sometimes I hear water-flowing sound in my toilets when nobody's using!

    I will like to suggest you to be very careful smelling/blowing/breathing into/from/around the blue tube when you have applied chlorine-based bleach into it. Perhaps can use a hand pump/compressed air to jet the dissolved waste out the other hand instead.

    Thank you for the wet/dry vacuum tip (I'll probably not buy one as I do see the aircon service team bringing one during their visits).

    Btw, thank you for your detailed reply again (you have also helped me in this thread before!)

  5. Posted

    Hi, guess this may be a shot in the dark but I'll try anyway...

    Anybody knows where I can purchase the Sayerlack Linea Blu Wax Effect waterbased stain in Singapore? Basically it's a type of "paint" used to stain wooden decking. I'm looking for some to touch-up the outlook of my balcony decking. The rear of the can looks like this:
    E1nHFeZ.jpg?1

    This is the exact "model", color code is HI2213 (dark walnut), used to varnish my decking by the installers. Hence I was hoping to buy back the same series to touch up the decking by myself.

  6. Posted

    32 minutes ago, bepgof said:

    FCU has 2 paths - incoming gas (cold) & outgoing gas (hot).

    The cold gas passes through tube with alu 'fins' and when fins contact with ambient hotter air (actually is higher humidity) , water condenses and drips, supposing go to drainage pipe for discharge.

    Look more like the drainage path choked, in yr case. Blow it with pressure jet. 

     

    Hmm...my drainage pipe is concealed (DBSS). I assume there should be an outlet somewhere? Any idea where it is? That's the downside of having no trunking (not by choice), I have nothing to trace/follow. & shouldn't I use a vacuum to suck from the (outlet of) the drainage pipe instead of jetting water into it?

  11. Posted

    To answer my own query:

    On 13/04/2015 at 1:43 PM, shibumi said:

    May I check with you from whom did you order the black shelving racks from, & is it spray-painted, or powder-coated black?

    based on a previous post by the homeowner:

    On 18/07/2014 at 9:55 PM, lynnzlq said:

    Jinyu at Geylang

     

    I believe the racks are powder-coated. Reason is because I'd also ordered from JinYu Trading. & their only black racks are powder-coated. I actually knocked (al beit lightly) a spanner against my racks in my bomb shelter the other day, & there wasn't any observable scratched. If the racks were spray-painted, the result will be very (negatively) different. Also wish to point out JinYu responds to queries very readily, i.e. I emailed them with the dimensions of my storeroom & potential rack configuration & one of their rep responded to my tons of emails...overall, good experience with them.

  12. Posted

    On 4/18/2016 at 10:30 PM, luishnn said:

    Dormito,

    U will be glad to hear that I sank in more than $4k on overlaying HERF vinyl and received very badly done job by the same Evoxxxx company. It's a painful lesson learnt. The inconsistent quality of the overlay resulted in bumpy floor, sloppy edges which the company just claim that it was due to the old flooring. I hacked the skirting and re did the edges to prepare for the overlay and they just got the operations guy - Alex to come in and use a lot of technical jargon to try and cover up for the poor workmanship.  Had thought I wanted to have more quality after seeing many good reviews... only paid for more frustrations through personal experience. 

    Did you remove the old flooring before they came in to work? Or was it your tiled surfaces that they overlay upon?

  14. Posted

    I believe I'm suffering from similar situation: my bomb shelter ceiling have got a mould outbreak. It all started with a booklice infestation (which I guess should have been tell-tale enough), then one day while I was lint-rolling the lice off the ceilings & walls, I noticed the patches (of mould). I reside on the top floor & have reasons to believe the water-proofing done at the water tank level is deteriorating. Even the ceiling at my lift lobby drips water during heavy rain. Going to highlight to town council pretty soon...

  15. Posted

    You can try ordering from 淘宝. I order long SS rods from there every now & then. I am allowed to specify diameter (inner & outer), hollow core or not, grade (yup, even 316 is available) & of course length. If you are ordering super slim ones, the seller will know how to pack with a wood brace to ensure no bending. For air shipment, length should not exceed 1.7m (thereabouts). But if you are very particular about the external finishing, e.g. you need it to be polished, you need to highlight.

  17. Posted

    And another good news, is that I found the source of the person who did my black powder coated aluminium frame door!! My friend wanted the same door so I tried my luck to ask Contractor J and he shared with me the contact. The pricing my friend got for the door is :good::good::good: - Let me know if you need someone to do your scandinavian glass door! :D

    I may need someone who is good in power-coated metal structures. Will appreciate if you can share this specific vendor's contact with me. Thanks.

  19. Posted

    Anyway I decided to go ahead to use an art & craft brush to rectify the spot damages. The brush I'd used this not the type with black strands; it's also not the calligraphy type. It's the type with white strands that are so stiff that you need to soften it with warm water before 1st use.

    Anyway, let's see some results. First, some small spots of my bedroom wall that got peeled off due to some silicon stoppers (you know those clear rubbery ones you stick on drawer doors to dampen slamming) being pressed on it for a long time (& then pulled away).

    This is the before:

    MXZTrUm.jpg

    6iw4goT.jpg

    & this is the after:

    lZ1lZ0m.jpg

    i1ViPba.jpg

    & from a distance (I included the manual so that the camera has a reference distance to focus on):

    QeLoAzz.jpg

    Another area; this is the before:

    fVlPMbW.jpg

    & this is the after (immediately after painting):

    http://i.imgur.com/WFErtJd.jpg

    & this is the after (after some drying time):

    http://i.imgur.com/XupAQqR.jpg

    Overall, for the effort & time I expended, I'm pretty pleased with the result. I know the proper way is to sand off, re-prime the area, then paint multiple thin coats, but...the choice to pursue which approach is up to individuals.

  22. Posted

    Nowadays HDB has offered comes with AC?

    Your is EC isn't? The AC condenser is weather sealed even spray water or rain is not an issue, but just don't spray water on pipping inlet at left hand side area.

    Oops; mine is DBSS (but to me, it's actually just a glorified HDB).

    What does the piping inlet resemble? Is it always on the left-hand side of compressor units (mine's Daikin).

  23. Posted

    Hi fellows, I'd shifted in for a few months. While shifting furniture around &/or installing other small furnishings, I caused some damages to my walls & ceilings paint job. My ID kept some of my leftover paint around. May I know:


    Qn1: if it is possible to use a water-colour brush (yes, those small-tipped ones used for art & craft) to directly paint over these areas?:


    (Exhibit A): around 10-cent coin diameter

    g9ID3Te.jpg


    (Exhibit B): half a palm size

    FYqQdrO.jpg


    Cause from what I see on YouTube most of them tutorials sand off a lot of the area surrounding the damaged spot, then paint a base white, then paint a few more coats of the desired colour paint. But as you can see in my exhibit, my "damaged areas" so small only...


    Qn2: may I know how to determine if my leftover paint is in a ready-to-use mix, or need to mix with some other chemicals before using?

  24. Posted

    Hi fellows, just curious. May I know if the compressor units that we often see on the air-con ledges outside HDB units, are truly weather-proof? Particularly their vents (as can be seen in this photo):


    VHlBMn7.jpg


    My air-con ledge has significant debris leftover from the developer's & contractor's labour. My handspray (read: bidet) is able to flush away the crap until a corner that I can actually reach with a dustpan; but I'm concerned if the ac compressor units can take some splashing (because the jet of water from the handspray isn't exactly a precision tool)...

  25. Posted

    Hi fellows, I'm using Heveatech decking on my balcony, & it's varnished with a few coats of wood varnish. I do some gardening in my balcony & soiled (literally :P ) water splashes on the decking every now & then. It stains the decking such that using plain water & melamine sponge (that common white "magic" sponge) doesn't really remove the muddy stains. I don't think I can use thinner/turpentine because I presume those solvents are meant to strip paint.


    What may I use to clean varnished decking? Anybody care to share some experience?

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