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ilkl

5-Room Resale (Light Industrial) Learn & Share

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22 hours ago, lkccchris said:

Hi, hows ur cemenr screed pn existing tiles so far? New here in reno.

Would like to save some $$ not to hack my kitchen wall as well... can share some info on how the cement on exiciting tiles work? They just put a layer of cement over the existing tiles? 

TIA

Hello @lkccchris,

Yes, they just apply the cement directly over the existing tiles.

Regarding the cement - for our kitchen and service yard, there's only one wall left with real cement screed whereas the rest have been painted over (because of a painting boo-boo). The parts that were painted over are rough because they had not finished screeding properly, but we did our own special effect painting to blend in with the roughness, and some parts where also smoothened with putty before painting over again. The wall where there is cement screed need to be protected well because when the pipes and electricians are working on it, they like to draw stuff on it and sometimes it gets quite dirty and harder to clean.

Our common bathroom with the cement screed was done up well, much smoother (cause we insisted to our ID -  otherwise they would have left it rough) but we have not painted over a layer of protection to reduce water absorption. Some people paint over the cement screed with polyurethane varnish but we are going to try a special cement sealer, because we want to keep the matte finish of the screed yet have water repellent properties. Will probably do up a separate post about it!

 

17 hours ago, Han Xiang said:

Hi ilkl, after you outlay vinyl, did you experience uneven floor level between the living room, bedroom and the spot where is wall used to be? Notice you mentioned about sanding to even the plastering. Hows the outcome? We are preparing for our 5 room resale in mid may and your thread has been very useful to us.

Hi there!

After we got our ID to patch those areas and sand down, no unevenness detected for those areas.

But recently after we cleaned and started moving in, I noticed the floor at my dry kitchen is a little uneven - previously the dry kitchen floor was hacked and cement screed done to level with the living room. I have informed my ID so we see how he gets it fixed. Thankfully our vinyl floor is those clicked-on type so removing and reinstalling them is quite easy.

 

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Hi ilkl, do you have any new fibre broadband termination point install? Can share where is the existing hidden location? Because I was wondering how this can be done to match your industrial exposed trunking? 

 

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10 hours ago, CZL said:

Hi ilkl, do you have any new fibre broadband termination point install? Can share where is the existing hidden location? Because I was wondering how this can be done to match your industrial exposed trunking? 

Hello @CZL, you've asked a very good question! Because just yesterday we spoke to the electrician big boss who came to collect money and we learned something from him.

Fibre Termination Point Hoo-Ha

A bit of backstory first: our ID suggested having the fibre termination point to be in our TV console because that's where we planned to have our Starhub TV and router there. He said they will provide a connecting wire which runs in the existing false ceiling. The logic of doing that is to hide the fibre wires otherwise the fiber installation people will run casing all the way which is so ugly! When the electricians came, they insisted that the intended place is too far and it cannot be done. We weren't really involved in the discussion but somehow our ID managed to sort it out with the electrician: they will run a dummy wire in the false ceiling from outside the house to our TV console, and the exposed part at the feature wall (because we didnt do a plywood panel) will be in black PVC pipe. When Net Link Trust (formerly Open Net) people came, that dummy wire acts as a threader basically - they tied one end to the fibre optic wire, and pulled it in all the way (through the false ceiling and the black pipe) into the TV console.

large.random.jpg.77b2e6e188278caa802d002e2d09ec2d.jpg

Now I'm not an electrician and I didn't study electrical engineering, but I think distance and length of the fibre optic wire should not affect the connection (because then in Singapore you will have difference in speeds according to area?) so placing the fibre further in the house is not contraindicated. The fuss that the electricians kicked up was the fact that the further the distance the fibre wire has to travel, there is a higher chance of the wire breaking and getting lost in the false ceiling, so they said it cannot be done to save them the hassle.

Luckily all went smoothly and our Internet connection is totally fine.

So why I brought up the electrician big boss? Well, he was the very first person who came to site visit and ran through the whole plan for wiring with us and our ID and he was not aware that we were building a full height shoe cabinet which we could hide the DB box in (the existing DB box was on the opposite wall and very high up). He thought we were building a half height shoe cabinet and we are not shifting the DB box (this was a miscommunication - the full height shoe cabinet was in the plan all along). However, when renovation started, our ID and ourselves decided to move the DB box into the shoe cabinet (cost $400), and the boss said if he knew about that, he would have suggested we have the fibre termination point done next to the DB box, very much like what all BTOs are doing now. All he needed to do was to install a double amp socket there for the modem, and he will add a data point to the TV console which is way easier to connect to the fibre point/modem at the shoe cabinet, rather than going through all that trouble we went through (which cost an extra $220).

So who do we blame? Partly the ID cause why they never suggested this in the first place (probably cause they also don't know), partly the electrician team (big boss excluded) because they were the ones shifting the DB box and complained about the fibre being too far inside the house, how come never suggested this simple solution? And also partly the electrician big boss (eh hello, you probably blur and remembered wrongly, cause the full height shoe cabinet was planned since day 1 ok?). And also a little bit blame ourselves cause we really didn't know (but we home owners le, not professionals, of course we dunno right?). 

SO, LONG STORY SHORT, TLDR VERSION:

  • If not planning to build full cabinet to hide DB box (which is usually situated near main entrance), then you can run the fibre into the house via conventional method of having Net Link Trust installing wire casings all over the house, or through this special method of using dummy wire/threading method described above.
  • If you are building a full cabinet and you are relocating your DB box inside, best to install your fibre termination point next to it (and don't forget to have at least 2 sockets for your modem - happened to our friend, they couldn't have internet until electrician came to fix it)
  • If you already have fibre point in your house when you bought it, good for you! Otherwise must pay Net Link Trust $235.40 to install.
  • if you have a BTO, then good for you too! Gahmen already thought out the best way for you! It's other mortals like us who got resale who may have this headache to deal with.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

P/S: Sorry haven't updated this thread for a while, we just shifted into our house yesterday so it's quite a havoc now! Hopefully I can add some updates soon!

 

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On ‎3‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 6:32 PM, ilkl said:

Service Yard
Carpentry for the service yard is actually very simple, just bottom cabinets to accommodate a gas hob and a small sink.

Alas, because I got greedy and bought a 90cm wide gas hob, the space left is a little weird, about 20+ cm on each side of the gas hob. I saw this from Blum and thought it was a really great idea to store sauces, oil and other seasonings used during cooking. They have something similar from Excel, but I personally prefer Blum’s.

 

 


Challenge: Build me a pull-out narrow cabinet like Blum’s (with soft closing, of course)

Result: Pass! Well done! *clap clap*

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We asked them to install handles because pulling these narrow cabinets open without handles will be quite challenging and the wood panel will wobble.

large_18.15-wet-kitchen.jpg.d4d9a5d9fa7522650e81fff8e1054bde.jpgWork in progress photo... 

 

Dry Kitchen
Challenge: 1) Want a tall cabinet pantry 

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Excel's tandem pantry

 

 

Challenge: 2) Want a built-in dishwasher

Personally, I dislike doing the dishes. When I went to visit my best friend in New Zealand years ago, she had a Fisher & Paykel drawer dishwasher which was super convenient and so I’ve always wanted one. Compared to other brands, F&P’s is the only type which you pull open and place in the plates directly because it’s designed like a drawer. All other brands involve opening the dishwasher door and pulling out the racks before you can load/unload.

fisher-paykel-new-tall-dishdrawer-open.j

Went to Harvey Norman Millenia Walk and saw they had a few models for sale. I was going to buy the basic one but the salesperson told me that they have a special model which is not on display – long story short, I got that one! It’s called an Integrated Drawer Dishwasher because it’s meant to blend in with the carpentry, so the measurements must be done right and need to integrate water inlet, drainage pipe and electric point into the carpentry also. 

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The hole on top is for the installer to access the inlet & outlet, and acts as a vent too.

Due to the specialised skill needed to install it, I got Harvey Norman to pass me the contact of their authorised F&P installer and had to pay $120 for the installation (carpenter must of course provide the panel first). But look at the results! Seamless! (There is an optional F&P handle which is quite chio but must order from F&P, and it costs $65!)

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Ta-da! Hidden dishwasher, me likey a lot!

 

We got white iQuartz countertop and asked for a cap - which means the sides are made to look thicker and more premium.
 

Hi, I like your narrow pull out drawers. They are very practical.

I have 2 integrated dish-drawers from F&P as well in my kitchen. The bottom one has a different configuration and can accommodate big pots and frying pan. Both dish-drawers can operate independently. I like them too. 

Edited by KFC1189
 

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On 3/27/2017 at 3:22 PM, ilkl said:

Carpentry: Laminate Selection

Finally a post on Carpentry!

I must be forthcoming and admit that I’m very eager about this part, hence I requested for the sample book super duper early into the renovation, which I kept for more than 2 months haha. I also nicked those small card-sized samples when I see them in shops etc.

But obviously that is not enough, so I convinced my husband to drive me all the way to Sungei Kadut to look at larger samples. At that time I didn’t know of other brands (I was fixated on Lamitak), but now I know that almost all the known laminate brands have their warehouse/showroom situated there, so here’s a list:

  • TAK (Lamitak): 41 Sungei Kadut Ave
  • Admira: 45 Sungei Kadut Avenue
  • EDL: 43 Sungei Kadut Street 1
  • Jennings: 23 Sungei Kadut Street 1
  • Greenlam: 11 Sungei Kadut Crescent
  • Lam Chuan: 12 Sungei Kadut Way
  • Arova: 6 Sungei Kadut Way

Best to call before going, especially to check on opening hours.

I was super thick-faced and asked for the A4 samples. By right my ID could get them for us, but at that time they were holidaying for CNY so I didn’t want to disturb them. Anyway if your ID/contractor is too unenthusiastic or too slow in getting the larger samples, I think it is worth making a trip down to Sungei Kadut to have a better look and to get your own samples. Since carpentry will be the main expense and if the laminate turned out unexpected, you will have to live with it so please don’t choose based on a tiny piece of sample.

large_16.1-laminate.jpg

Same same but different!!

Our selections for the laminates, together with the vinyl floor and kompacplus countertop.

Nice blog! I love how you detailed your renovation journey.

How much is the laminate which you have shared in your previous post? Where are you using this laminate for your renovation? :wub:

 

Did you use it for the upper cabinets?

large_18.8-dry-kitchen.jpg.4d5d35dd5c3622901de70d17b41ac557.jpg

 

Edited by diva79
 

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4 hours ago, diva79 said:

Nice blog! I love how you detailed your renovation journey.

How much is the laminate which you have shared in your previous post? Where are you using this laminate for your renovation? :wub:

Did you use it for the upper cabinets?

large_18.8-dry-kitchen.jpg.4d5d35dd5c3622901de70d17b41ac557.jpg

 

Yes @diva79, you got it right! We used Tadao Concrete for the upper cabinets.

Not too sure about the price as it's included in our quote. Our ID let us choose any brand, so we went with Lamitak.

 

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On 2/25/2017 at 7:12 PM, ilkl said:

Growing Herbs
Some of my friends who knew about my vertical garden asked if it can grow herbs. Sadly, no, because herbs actually need more sunlight and the VG system is designed for indoor plants which thrive on less light.

So how does a gardening noob with some interest in gardening and yet is a lazy bum grow some herbs? By getting this Smart Herb Garden by Click and Grow from Amazon instead. There was a big discount during Black Friday so I just bought this to try (US$30 plus Amazon free shipping, comes with 3 Basil cartridges). Just plug in and remember to top-up water (there is an indicator). The capsules contain NASA-inspired “smart soil” with embedded seeds which will begin to sprout once the LED lights are turned on. It really works! (My friend is growing them for me on her office table cause I got no space at home/work)

large_09.2-herb.jpg


The official website has a lot more variety of plant types and best of all is, free shipping to Singapore for purchases above US$50! Use this link to enjoy 20% off first order.

Since the 3-plant Smart Herb Garden seems rather successful, I’ve placed an order for the Smart Garden 9 which will only be available in August 2017 onwards. That way, I can grow salad and herbs at home! Eggsciting! :dribble:

large_09.3-herb.jpg


If not convinced, I suggest searching YouTube for Click and Grow reviews. Quite a lot of video reviews there. Don't say I bojio!

i check on amazon and it says it cant be shipped to Singapore?

how did you get?

 

 

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4 hours ago, fifteenmay said:

i check on amazon and it says it cant be shipped to Singapore?

how did you get?

That time during Cyber Monday Amazon stated that it could ship to Singapore, but I guess they changed their policy. You can buy directly from the official Click & Grow website. Shipping to Singapore is free if purchasing more than USD 50. Can use my referral code to get 20% off first purchase: link here

 

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49 minutes ago, ilkl said:

That time during Cyber Monday Amazon stated that it could ship to Singapore, but I guess they changed their policy. You can buy directly from the official Click & Grow website. Shipping to Singapore is free if purchasing more than USD 50. Can use my referral code to get 20% off first purchase: link here

I think its the soil problem. Plant is ok but if there is soil in the pot then it is not allow by SG customs. 

 

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On 4/12/2017 at 1:21 PM, ilkl said:

Hello @CZL, you've asked a very good question! Because just yesterday we spoke to the electrician big boss who came to collect money and we learned something from him.

Fibre Termination Point Hoo-Ha

Thanks for the advice. And I chose to follow the same route as yours (all the way to Tv console thereafter split for datapoint) because my router cannot hide in the cabinet and it would be too far for wifi connection. Moreover, I do not have false ceiling so i get my electrician to get it a bit conceal (illegally) along the wall. I think old flats just have so many unexpected challenge. 

 

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16 hours ago, CZL said:

Thanks for the advice. And I chose to follow the same route as yours (all the way to Tv console thereafter split for datapoint) because my router cannot hide in the cabinet and it would be too far for wifi connection. Moreover, I do not have false ceiling so i get my electrician to get it a bit conceal (illegally) along the wall. I think old flats just have so many unexpected challenge. 

Oh, so your electrician did concealed wiring for the Net Link Trust to pull their wire through? How did it go? That sounds even higher level than mine, and my electricians made so much noise about running it inside the false ceiling!

 

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5 hours ago, ilkl said:

Oh, so your electrician did concealed wiring for the Net Link Trust to pull their wire through? How did it go? That sounds even higher level than mine, and my electricians made so much noise about running it inside the false ceiling!

Me too also has a brick wall near the TV console but I do not want the black industrial trunking. So my electrician actually engrave a route on the wall surface and later use the pvc casing cover to protect it. Netlink just follow my electrician instruction and route the wire. So far, no complain. Moreover the wire is more than 15m and they did not extra charge me. Heng ah...

 

 

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Hood Installation Hassle
This was one of the very last things the ID had to do for us, and that is to install our Electrolux chimney hood over our gas hob in our service yard.

large.19_44.jpg.4b817313eef9d90ede1bda3157cd3e2f.jpg

Due to the large beam present, our ID said the carpenter is the best person to do the job as he can cut the chimney hood to fit the beam.

large_19.44-vents-cut-off.jpeg.ef6ade9237e74b31c5a6f7bb0949a726.jpeg
The part of the hood which has been cut away. That included ALL the vents.

Alas, the Electrolux hood’s ventilation vents were removed, and when the carpenter installed it, as soon as I turned on the hood, the metal plates on top just flapped open!! Wahlao eh!

Watch the video to see the problem. That's the carpenter's hand. Mine looks more slender, in case you were wondering.
The carpenter try to shift the blame by saying he is actually not qualified to install it, and he had informed our ID that the vents would be cut off. His wife (who comes along to help) said the hood needs to have a pipe installed to allow the air to be channelled out of the house. Luckily I’m not so blur and I said this kind of chimney does not need a pipe, and seeing how the hood has been cut, surely we cannot return or exchange the hood!!

I had to think on the spot (because my ID already more or less wash hands already), came up with an idea to have the carpenter construct a box-up for the hood and to add vents. The carpenter was very happy to hear of a solution and he was confident he could fabricate one (finally something within his skill set). For this, ID had to do FOC for us because it’s their fault lor.

large_19.47-fixed-hood.jpg.6e126777dc1ce0a2e553f247eb4f7533.jpg
Chose a black laminate, of course. Vents were spray-painted black. When I asked carpenter if the solid plywood can withstand the hot air, he said no problem. I have my doubts, but if anything, I will look for my ID in future!!


Moral of the story:
If you got a beam where the hood is supposed to go, then do like these clever people:

large_19.45-qanvast-kitchen.jpg.f432ec0a46e2a935084dea8dbeb67865.jpg
large_19.46-qanvast-kitchen.jpg.e89f79198662991d93b37a05ac72d064.jpg

Make sure your hood model has vents at the right places!

Edited by ilkl
 

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