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ninja3101

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Posts posted by ninja3101


  1. Hi All

    I intend to wall mount 4 LCD TV in my house. I got a quote from a vendor for the charges

    1) TV Wall Mount service for 22inch LCD TV with bracket provided - $25 per unit

    2) TV Wall Mount service for 32inch LCD TV - $50 per unit

    3) Sanus MF215 "32inch LCD Bracket able to tilt and swing with two arms - $200

    Total Charges - 22inch LCD TV install only - $25 x 2

    32inch LCD TV install & Bracket provided by vendor - $250 X 2

    Final Total = $50 + $500

    = $550

    So what u all think of the charges cheap or expensive ?

    Any vendor to recommend ?


  2. Hi Stone23

    Which reno company quoto u ? Which are the reno company u have get quoto so far ?

    For the air-con u can call All Best for the prices

    Hi folks,

    Your advise is greatly appreciated.

    Flat Type: 4A (104 sqm)

    A: Demolish Work

    1. Supply labour & tools to hack off existing floor tiles, wall tiles and clear debris ~$2,600

    B: Living Room, 3 Bedrooms & Storage room

    1. Supply & lay 600x600mm china homogenous tiles c/w skirting finish ~$4,300

    2. Supply & install normal cornice to whole house c/w some false ceiling ~$950

    3. Supply & install 1 no. of wrought iron gate ~$450

    4. Supply & install 3 nos. of solid design doors to 3 bedroom~$840

    5. Supply & install 1 no. of solid design main door ~$420

    6. Supply & install full height laminated wardrobe in one of the common room c/w ABS trimming (5ft) ~$1,050

    7. Supply & install full height laminated wardrobe in mater bedroom c/w ABS trimming (10ft) ~$2,100

    8. Supply & install full height laminated partition c/w laminated sliding door in master bedroom ~$2,200

    9. Supply & install laminated feature wall in the living area ~$1,380

    10. Supply & install laminated TV console (6ft) ~$720

    C: Kitchen

    1. Supply & construct kitchen cabinet base ~$200

    2. Supply labour & material to plaster wall ~$700

    3. Supply & lay ceramic floor tiles ~$1,400

    4. Supply & lay water proofing ~$200

    5. Supply & install upper & lower laminated kitchen cabinet with ABS trimming finishing (20 ft by design) c/w laminated

    laminated works top ~$2,400

    6. Supply & construct kitchen sink support c/w tiles finish (6ft) ~$680

    7. Supply & install 6mm red tempered glass in between up and down cabinet (8ft) ~$420

    8. Supply & install wall tiles at window area and debris chute area ~$600

    D: Two (2) toilets:

    1. Supply labour to install 2 nos. of toilet bowl ~$200

    2. Supply labour to install 2 nos. of basin ~$120

    3. Supply & lay ceramic floor tiles ~$900

    4. Supply & lay ceramic wall tiles up to ceiling height ~$2,800

    5. Supply water proofing ~$300

    6. Supply & install 1 no. of aluminum bi-fold door in common toilet ~$180

    7. Supply labour & material to alter exisiting squat wc to siting wc ~$100

    8. Supply labour & material to box up exisiting sewage pipe ~$600

    E: Others:

    1. Painting of whole house using ICI paints c/w oil best coated ~$1,250

    2. Supply & install stainless steel pipe for the whole house (hot & cold) ~$950

    3. Supply & install sliding aluminum window to all window ~$2,200

    4. Supply & install 2 no.s of alumium grills to all windows ~$1,280

    5. Supply & install 1 no. of s/s debris chute ~$160

    6. Rewire for the whole house including fixing of lights ~$2,800

    7. Supply & install 1 to 3 air-con (normal Panasonic) ~$1,950

    Total Costs: $39,400

    Please advise.


  3. Hi All

    A few mths ago I renovate my house. It was a nightmare !

    The flooring workmanship was badly done. <img src="http://www.renotalk.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/curse.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":curse:" border="0" alt="curse.gif" />

    Further more the reno company is well known.

    These are the following problems for the flooring

    1) Inconsistent joint width

    2) Pointing defects - joints not properly filled

    3) Pain stains

    4) Surface not even

    5) Lippage between 2 tiles exceed 3mm - 6mm

    6) Some tiles cracks are seen

    7) Out of alignment

    Anyone has similar experience or advices ?

    Log a report to Consumers Association of Singapore (CASE) or Small Claims Tribunal ?

    thanks <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />


  4. I will be rewiring whole house - 5 room HDB (Woodlands). Cost me $5600.

    - New DB box

    - New switches

    - 2 heater point.

    - 2 air con point.

    - Downlight 25 point.

    - 2 * Hanging Fan point.

    - 5 * SCV point

    and power point....

    How many switches ? How many single & double powepoints ?


  5. Fm technical pt of view, no so advisable to relocate, must consider:

    - Unless change the whole coolant copper pipe from fcu to compressor. Copper pipe joint always leak after sometime.

    - Drainage pipe/trunking etc need to relocate as well, joints here & there.

    - Try re-direct first.

    Changing the whole coolant copper pipe from fcu and compressor I don think is possible as the casing is cover by build-in wardrobe ?

    My ID said lesser joints and turning copper pipes will have lesser problem in the long run. He advice to put all the air-con above the bedroom door or near the area. so the drainage and coolant will have shorten path and is better.

    Re-direct is using electric fan ?


  6. Lower the ceiling give u false vertical beam flush with wardrobe.

    Is not listed in any of yr pix. The aircon is still the same orientation as before.

    Your aircon location, if u lie on yr bed, unlikely the remote is able to aim at the aircon.

    U shd try sleeping with the aircon blowing at your head. Even if u can accept, wad about the other living thing sleeping beside u.

    ok.thanks I will take into consideration. :)


  7. just bought a duplex apt (2 levels), the central storage heater switch is in master bedroom upstairs, i think the storage heater is hidden in the ceiling... questions:

    1) can i do another switch downstairs? or

    2) can i do another switch on the wall outside master bedroom (so that others can on by not going into master bedroom)? or

    3) would it be better to install another heater downstairs? presently, downstairs~ kitchen and common bathroom are connected to central heater...

    i would also like to install induction cooker and oven for my kitchen, there are presently many normal sockets (for tv radio fan type...) can i convert them to 13amp (for aircon, induction cooker and oven type...)

    many thanks!

    Yes , you can do another switch at downstairs but bear in mind that it a one way switch that means to said where u on is where u off it.

    Why u want to do another switch outside Master bedroom , why not do outside the common bathroom will be nicer ?

    U got use rain shower if yes, u must use storage tank heater.

    For the convert, I not sure. U need to check with the electrician.


  8. Shd box up the ceiling all the way to be flush with the wardrobe door. The existing aircon location there be a lowered ceiling, like a corridor. The aircon relocate to be flush with the wardrobe door. Do not place your aircon in a position to blow at yr head while u are sleeping.

    In Pic 2 , which position should the air-con to place from 1 -3 ? Or put the air-con unit in-between or below the blue line ? Put it lowered ceiling , is there a reason ? better air-flow and breeze ?

    If the air-con is place blowing to your head, will cause dry skin or what ?


  9. Hi All

    Recently I installed a new Mitsubishi Air-Con in my room. Somehow I find that the air-con wind is blocked by the build-in wardrobe. I feel hot & stuffy at the bed top area where I sleep.

    This is where the air-con is installed but it blocked by the wardrobe

    01.jpg

    Position 1 -3 where the air-con can be relocate

    02a.jpg

    Bed Position

    03.jpg

    I am thinking should I relocate the air-con unit to position 3 in picture 2. Anyone got relocate their air-con postion before ? Still possible to relocate and what is a reasonable price ? Please advices ? Don know will cause condensation or drainage problems if relocate ? TIA. :)


  10. Hi All

    Recently I installed a new Mitsubishi Air-Con in my room. Somehow I find that the air-con wind is blocked by the build-in wardrobe. I feel hot & stuffy at the bed top area where I sleep.

    This is where the air-con is installed but it blocked by the wardrobe

    01.jpg

    Position 1 -3 where the air-con can be relocate, I think position 3 is the best to place the air-con but have to put a shelf at postion 4 and Postion 5 will be mounting the tv. Anyone have their air-con unit mounted above TV pics becos afraid of water leaking so have to put a shelf ?

    02b.jpg

    Bed Position

    03.jpg

    I am thinking should I relocate the air-con unit to position 3 in picture 2. Anyone got relocate their air-con postion before ? Still possible to relocate and what is a reasonable price ? Please advices ? Don know will cause condensation or drainage problems if relocate ? TIA. :)


  11. I'm asking them to re route the electrical casing as well as the aircon casing.

    I was told the best option is not to conceal them for future troubleshooting.

    The gap above the aircon casing in the corridor is the electrical casing.

    I will post more pics after they re-route everything for me.

    Thanks for giving me all these feedback.

    Hi

    I completed my house reno two mths ago. I am installing mitsubishi inverter system 4 but no stock so have wait. I pay $80 for two times installation. The air-con are put above the door of each bedroom this is to have less trunking and cover them using build-in wardrobe. My ID even conceal the drainage pvc pipe with tiles so made it look nicer. It just like why ppl do L-Box and Cornies to cover up ugly electric trunking.


  12. What is skidding area??

    Mu hub actually went out of the house and look for point of the OpenNet and he say can run from the existing trunking which HDB have and come into our house... wonder if that they can be done... + maybe a bit damage to the corner of the fales ceiling.

    Skidding area is the side of the floor. A few mths ago, I told my ID do not put up the L-Box first. In the end, the OpenNet ppl refuse to run the cabling at the ceiling area. Really waster my time !!!! So I get my electrician to run the cabling in the ceiling. I find the OpenNet contractors just want to faster finish their installation after that take picture so they can claim $ from OpenNet. They don care about the cabling is done nicely or not. :(


  13. OpenNet will be coming to our place on the 5 Apr 2010 (Monday) to do the installation.

    Opt 1: If we just let the OpenNet lay the cables and trunking sure will be ugly :bleah: cause expose mah... and just reno hor every thing swee swee one.. now got wht STUPID OpenNet which cause lots of new house owner eyesore just because of the trunking.

    Price: No cost but eyesore forever

    Opt 2: Ask OpenNet and Own contractor to come to the house and work together.... so contractor will help to hide the wire in the false ceiling..... small dusty reno :disturb:

    Price: Extra cost to contractor

    Opt 3: Don't install OpenNet Lor.... One way or another you loose out. You save the trouble but in the long run if gov say no more cable and all go by OpenNet than siao liao lor.... Extra cost to install OpenNet & maybe if you dun like the way OpenNet do the trunking than you got to call you own contractor for the job too.

    Price: Double hit (left & right side - To pay OpenNet & Own contractor)

    Question: Anyone install OpenNet in your new house already after your reno is done??? :help::help::help:

    I can understand how you feel. OpenNet contractors said they do not run the cables in false ceiling. They will only run the cables at the skidding area. It would be best to ask your contractor to come to your house and work with Opennet. Do remember to tell your contractors to bring flexible tube to protect the cables.


  14. Hi All

    I need advice for my house flooring as it done badly. Can the workers do polish or grinding to make it nicer or need to hack everything and redo ?

    Please help advice. TIA.

    1) Gap in between not close nicely and level not even one high and low

    2) Cracks are found

    3) The gap is a thick and not straight line


  15. Hi everyone! Need your advice on your cabling setup as i'm doing a completely new setup. From the post above, why does one have 2 points per rm? Is it for the telephone? I heard that the normal telephone lines can be used thru cat 6 cable but that would mean changing the plug at the router end. Is there a easier way to have telephone connections other than a separate cabling cost. BTW Is it messy in the living rm where the router and cable modem is? Thanks.

    Two points per room it for redundant purpose just in case next time one point down, save the trouble to relay the cables.

    LAN points can be use as telephone phone as well.

    Have to put the router and cable modem near to OpenNet point.


  16. Need to know:

    All your LAN point go where?

    a) how long wiring?

    b) brands ? ( faceplate, cables )

    Usually they will give you those normal or average types. If you renovation is with the same contractor you can ask for further reduction.

    I think is better to put all Lan point outside or next to the TV console area and next to OpenNet Fiber Point or storeroom to hide it. But u must install the OpenNet Fiber point next to TV point and powerpoint.

    The wiring will depend on your number of points needed and distance. For me I will be buying a box about 300M sharing with a fren. The remaining I can make DIY cables for connection.

    U want Cat5e or Cat6 cables ?

    Recommend brand for Lan cables are AMP Netconnect & Belden but more expensive

    The 3M brand is also good.

    Cheaper brand will be like Draka , CMM , Nelken , Niken.

    If u want to know where to buy, I can PM u the shop address.

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