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Posts posted by bullet

  2. Posted

    Hi Everybody

    What is Compress Stone?

    Anyone ever use compress stone before?

    How is the material? Compare to marble, granite & homo tiles??

    Is it expensive?

    Please advise and thanks.

    HAPPY

    In short, these are man-made tiles but material are fom nature stone. Usage is in-between marble and granite. Can be polished if need to but usually not. Can Wash with chemical unlike marble and granite. Price quite exp. Some come with shiny mirror chip in it. Have less problem than granite and marble, as it is harder than marble, but thickness very consistance than granite.

  3. Posted

    yes u can,

    if u and ID A quite click but the quote is slightly higher than ID B

    show ID A, ID B quote and ask A to give some discount to match B

    So is it after getting A's discount and talk to B for discount to match A, then get B's discounted price to tell A that still can't match, and then get A's further discount to tell B..........Where is the ending? ID do have difference concept and design, material etc that affect the costing. If you like ID A then talk to ID A if the price is not too far away. Just engage the one which your budget fit, you click well with and you like his design that's all. Price can be neg one but dun over sequeeze their rice bowl la

  4. Posted

    this is my charges for the electrical and suplpy of lights.. does it sound overpriced?

    Supply labour & materials to run 30nos. Lighting points for Living & master bedroom - $900 This means labour and wiring material which is about $30 per point

    Supply & install 11nos. Fluorescent lights c/w switches - $275 This mean they supplier the fluorescent lights and install them at each $25 per set. Can bring down to $20 per set. Switch should be included in lighting points

    Supply & install 19nos. PLC energy-saving downlights (square type with white frame) - $475 This mean they supply the downlights and install them at $25 per set. Seems ok

    Supply & install 1no. Hood point, 1no. Double socket, change to 2nos. double sockets @ kitchen,shift sockets @ Living & master bedroom - $450 New double socket + change 2 nos of double sockets is between $100 - $120. Never state nos of shifting sockets in living and master bedroom, so can't comment.

    Hope this i s helpful

  5. Posted

    But nowadays, it seem like contractors/id just stated cabinet / wardrobe with laminated finished with abs trimming. Never stated what materials they use.

    Afraid they might give a poor quality wood especially for kitchen cabinet,

    Especially we put plates, cups, etc...that is heavy.

    And I might not be able to know whether it is good quality by feeling it or knocking it.

    That is the reason why I begin to ask around.

    Plse advise thru' your experiences.

    Strength of a cabinet is not only depending on the material itself but far more important is the method the contractor engaged for the joints. Certainly, solid ply will definately have better strength than hollow. Locally, most carpenter rather use solid ply for the matter not so much on saving material but more to saving cost on labour. It is easiler and faster to cut a solid ply and nailing them to form a cabinet. Hollow construction is only practise in those 70s days and for those countries where labour cost are cheaper than material. So I don't think there so much worry on the construction generally.

    As to material wise, also dependent on what and where they are constructing. Comparing between plywood and boardboard which seems to be similar to most layman but the usage is very different. Plywood have the tenancy to crack when nailing at the thickness portion esp near the edge, whereas, boardboard do not give good grip to screw. Some carpentry take trouble used both material to construct a cabinet because of their different characteristic. In general, boardboard are best use to construct solid door becuase it is much lighter and very straight by nature unlike plywood which often warpped. But plywood give better strength to vertical construction in general

  6. Posted

    FH's flat had a leaking toilet when he did hacking works. He had to bear half while downstairs also bear half.

    But i also have another friend whose room ceiling started to show the water marks due to upstairs hacking. but heard from him that the neighbours upstairs refuse to bear the costs. then he LL have to bear with it.

    so i also dunno which is rite. maybe can check with your town council and get someone to come down and review the situation

    If your friend's neighbour refuse to bear the cost, ask him to report to his HDB branch directly. Dun need to argue with the neighbour. The HDB officer will come and inspect and demand them to do it. Then each got to pay their own cost. I think you friend cost will be much lower as he only need to make good the ceiling and paint that's all

  8. Posted

    Haha... how can Italian made tiles have same quality as China made tiles? Have you ever made any comparison from the test report or not?

    No offence but definetely imposible to say Italian and China made tiles are equal in quality.

    Can you imagine your airfare to fly to China and to Italy? Italy tiles may be on higher cost but not necessary be the quality is better as alot of cost has gone to Freighting. Besides, alot of Euro manufacturer has shifted their plant to the Asia and many in China. So are you saying that tiles that produce in China which manufacturer is Italy own no good or it is still a Italy made tiles? Nothing is impossible. No offence but I think its a bias statement. Just to highlight, I no supporter for China product but neutral. Just commenting my know-what that's all

    Hmm...i didn't do any brand comparison yet, or any in-depth research as of now. Just wanna get a genaeral feel if possible.

    I ever saw tiles priced around $2.20 psf - $3 psf. I suppose they are from China if i didn't recall wrongly. However, what would be the price for those made from Spain, Italy for instance. Are they of the same price as above as well? I suppose those from Italy don't cost that little..... Please enlighten, thanks.

    The price of tiles will not tell exactly where it comes from. There are many other country that product similar tiles, like thailand and indonesia. I've no comment over price of Spain and Italy tiles, but you will probably be paying more for freighting cost for tiles that manufacture directly from Spain and Italy. I think we should look at the quality and finishes that suit us than looking at the country of original unless we are brand conscious

  9. Posted

    Hi

    Can someone give me an idea of the average cost of homo tiles from China, M'sia, Spain and Italy respectively. And what are the pros and cons for each.

    Thks a million.

    There is no average cost for homogeneous tiles. The range is quite wide; between $2+ to $10 psf. I think you should not concern about the place of manufacture as the process and technic are basically the same, so do the pros and cons as they are basically same product. Only concern should be your budget, the design, size, and finishes.

  10. Posted

    What is wrought aluminium gate?

    I know wrought iron gate - galvanised to prevent rust.

    But got wrought aluminium?

    It supposedly costs $1K for a 3x7 ft gate. x2++ of a wrought iron gate.

    Anyone knows?

    Thanks!

    This is a rather new product in the market. Wrought aluminium gate is still aluminium gate but the aluminium material used is thicker than normal and were sent for process to "bud" on it like wrought iron. Other than the design, it is still a normal aluminium gate that's all. $1K is too exp already.

  11. Posted · Edited by bullet

    Hi bullet, thanks for your reply.. However still not too sure about what you meant by "The new design of homogeneous tiles are still using "Bai Gao Ni" and only printed with dark colour on the surface."

    I thought homogenous means the tile is same colour throughout. It may not be exactly the same pattern as the surface but should still be same colour right? If not, then why would I pay for homogenous if its going to turn out like ceramic tiles? :P

    Homogeneous tiles is originally manufactured using "Bai Gao Ni" and mixed with colour pigment into paste form like flour. Other material can be added to it like pebbles extra. Like Making cookies using chololates chips. Then the paste is spreaded over a formwork and send for ovening at high temperature of 800 to 1000 degree. However, this process doess allow manufacturer to produce much design, that's why you will see the older version homogeneous tiles really homogeneous throughout but design wise very limited, either plain or spotted.

    The new design homogeneous tiles, still using Bai Gao Ni but this time they did not mix the colour pigment to make it homogeneous (maybe to save cost). The paste will be spreaded on formwork to make tiles and oven till semi hardon before printing of designing on the tiles. That's why what you see is only nice coloured design surface and the content is still white.

    Maybe we should not view the homogeneous tiles as fully homogeneous nowadays. Perhap just a name to determine that the tile is made of bai gao ni. The only difference between homogeneous tiles and ceramic tiles is homogeneous tiles are much higher density than ceramic due to the difference in material they used. So don't expect the tiles to be homogeneous; its just a name to determine the material they used. Cost of homogeneous tiles indeed had came down by alot since years ago. Some cheaper one can even cost much lesser than the ceramic tiles. Another difference between homogeneous tiles and ceramic tiles is at the edge of tiles; ceramic tiles is quarter rounded at edge and homogeneous tiles are either 90 degree or 45 degree chamferred. This make the tile joint much smaller than the ceramic tiles and the grouting can be as flush to the level but not the ceramic tiles which the grouting always sunken in and trap dirts.

  12. Posted · Edited by bullet

    Thanks BULLET.

    Yes now I know why 1 contractor told one of the fourmer here that he is the only 1 in spore can remove the stain. hahahahahahaha... not no more, we also know and cost not a single cent to remove the stain.

    Yes indeed cost cheap to remove. Generally it does remove but just be sure that the stain are remove at nearest to incident time. Else prolong leaving it will cause chemical reaction between the stain and the mineral content in the stone; then it will become permanent. Stain do not suck into the marble easily esp when its new because it has been polished and some waxing material is above it. It will fuse into marble if the maxing material is wear off; this is when you see the marble is not so shine.

    I won't believe that there is one one smart alex in the world. Its just a trade secret that people won't want to share and maybe can make some bucks

  13. Posted

    hahah...I am sure the tilers would like it very much to have skirting....you know, right to the edge, the uneven line can be cover it up with skirting....make their job more easiler.

    Hope the tilers who surf this web will not get annoyed!

    Yup, indeed that's the case. The tilers need to cut the tiles neatly as close to the wall as possible and also to follow the contour of the wall. Very time consuming and labour intensive. Also that this is the latest trend coming up.

  14. Posted

    Again again again thanks BULLET.

    I should give you a treat.

    I never thought of that.

    I immediately went around my house and see the skirting, yes.....dust.........

    For mbr and br1 or 2, there will be a built in wardrobe.

    But without skirting, seems not nice.

    Check my floor plan and only tv console is leaning against the wall, sofa, dinning table will not be against the wall.

    So, my problem will be tv console.

    The built in furniture will not be affected by the skirting. Only the ready made furniture. Design with skirting or without skirting is individual. But personally I feel its neater without skirting but the tilers got to do more work lor.

  15. Posted

    Hi Bullet

    Thanks for your extra information again.

    Last few days, I do according to what you advise us.

    Drip some dark soya sauce on Granite and Marble.

    Leave it for about 10 hours, then wipe it off.

    To my surprise, marble tiles did not suck up the sauce.

    Instead only granite tiles did suck up and has a black stain on it.

    Next, pour white bleach on the cotton wool and place on it, cover it up and let it for 2 days (3 days too long lah).

    Took out the cotton and wowla, the dark stain disappeared!:lol:!

    Took the granite and wash it with plain water.

    But then it left a very soft dark colour on the granite.

    Will check later if the colour goes back to the original.

    However, unable to test the marble lah.

    Stain cannot suck in!:lol:!

    Both marble and granite can work. Its only the time that you need to maintain the bleached cotton wool. Granite and marble got different density. Granite normally easiler as it has higher density than marble. Marble will taken long time. That's why I say 3 days

  16. Posted

    Thanks again BULLET.

    I thought of having a very dark marble just for the Main door kerb and that include the skirting around the house....hmmmm......looks like have to sit and think real hard for a special design....simple and elegant, heheh...

    From your other thread, I understand you intend to buy off the shelves furniture right? Then I would advise you not to go for any skirting in you house. The furniture may not be able to flush to the wall due to the skirting blocking the way and leave a gap about 2cm behind. Trap dust and nice habitat for insect

  17. Posted

    Thanks, BULLET, if the waterproofing is that expensive, then I will ask contractors to have it.

    Just to confirm, applying water proofing behind the tiles..means the surface that is connected to the cement?

    How about the top surface?

    So which is better, wet or dry laying??

    So that at least I can let my contractors know what I want from them.

    Thanks!!!

    Waterproofing is only on behind the tile. Surface of Tile not require as the tile also need to "breath". In case water really seeps in, the water still can escape through the surface. Wet lay for granite is better as it is more even, as for marble both method ok la. Got grinding so no problem

  18. Posted

    mine is relocating cos i hack away one room that has a starhub port .

    they wont turn OFF but they just refuse to TURN it ON that (new flat need to get them to come down to turn ON the signal)

    infact we tried to plug already and it wont work :sport-smiley-004:

    You should plug off everything and plug in cable and directly connect to TV. Try this and you will know if the line is workable. You should see normal TCS channel even without going through starhub. If there is no signal, I think you better get your contractor to come back and relay the cable

  19. Posted

    Hi BULLET

    Is Marble tiles layout the same as Granite?

    I mean in terms of laying (wet)....and finishing touches with polishing only???

    How about waterproofing??

    Please advise and thks.

    HAPPY

    Generally, I will say yes. Dependent on the size of material you selected. There are few formation to layout and all applicable to granite and marble, even tiles. Marble can use either wet or dry lay as it will be polished and grinded to finish, unlike granite which normally do not require grinding. Waterproofing is dependent on usuage. Both granite and marble can do waterproofing by applying a solution behind the tile. But the cost is slightly higher. I would say it worth the value as the waterproofing application protect the marble from colour change after long use from underground water and moist

  20. Posted

    Hi Bullet

    I thought of having a pebblewash floor at the main door area, is it possible if my floor is marble tiles??

    Or how to have a simple decorative?

    How about having a very dark colour for marbles at the main door area?

    Please advise and thanks!:sport-smiley-004:

    Why not? You can have plenty of combination between the materials to get the effect you want. Cost should not differ too much if you get the right ID/contractor to help you. You may want to consider other material like parquet, stainless steel inlay, etc to create design. You may even want to have more than 2 types of material for the same area. Colour combination with different marbles can also be a good choice too.

  21. Posted

    Can we enage someone to do that ? do you know abt how much it will cost ?

    Yes, certainly you can engage contractor to do that. You can expect the cost about 40% to 60% of cost to construct a new one. Just a reminder that not many carpenter like to do such work as it is too time consuming. If you are not that particular, maybe you wanna try painter but result may not be as good as the carpenter.

    Hi Bullet,

    Veneer finished, light tone, 7 X 10 ft, 4 top, 4 bottom door ( open type )

    Any idea the cost ? cos make new is like $1700

    First, a new cabinet of 7 X 10ft with 8 casement doors should not be more than $1600.00 I would expect the cost of revanishing around and not more than $850

  22. Posted

    i've read an article saying that we should spend only 10% to 15% of the value of our house on reno. $50K is far more than 15% liao. I almost signed on a $50K contact but luckily my sis knocked some sense into me.

    Truly that this is average adviseable amount to spend for a decent house. But certainly not enough for a palace. In Singapore context below 20% of your house value is reasonable basically due to all building material are imported plus high cost of labour. Other country may be much lower. The closer to 20% of house value, certainly the closer you are nearer to palace. But all these are just estimation only. For instance, if you buy a 5 room flat at Tiong Bahru and compare to a 5 room flat in yishun, I don't think this theory apply anymore. Cost of both renovation with same items should be consistent irregardless of area.

  23. Posted

    Hi, hope someone can help me... I found some of my homogenous tiles are chipped.. Like the worker dropped something n there is a small hole... But my tiles are dark brown/black colour ... and the chipped area is white...

    I thought that homogenous should still be the same colour when chipped?

    Also I checked with one of my friend who used to be an ID, he told me that for dark coloured homogenous tiles, they are only made in Italy and not in China.. But my tiles were made in China

    Anyone can help on this? :sport-smiley-004:

    Colour of hmogeneous tiles has nothing to do with the country of manufacturing; indeed many european manufacturers have shifted their production to asian country like china, taiwan, thailand, vetnam, indonesian etc. Pardon my ignorance to what your ID had commented that "dark coloured homogeneous tiles are only made in Italy." So far I do not see any homogeneous tiles that are dark colour and homogeneous throughout other than those old type. The new design of homogeneous tiles are still using "Bai Gao Ni" and only printed with dark colour on the surface.

    If you chip tiles found during the renovation period, you should ask the contractor to replace it that's all; not difficult with some skills and right tools. If chip is not your contractor's liability, then it depend very much on how deep is the chip. If it is not deep, just use some close colour pigment to paint over so that it is not obvious, if it is deep, then you can use some white cement to mix with colour grout to match the colour and apply. Swallow chip cannot use this method as the grout will come out easily.

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