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Stream

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Posts posted by Stream


  1. 2 hours ago, ryanyth said:

    Oic what u mean.

    Of course if can conceal I will try to ba.

    Agree is ugly to see trunking all over the place. But this is an issue I will let my ID handle. I'm sure they will have lots of tricks up their sleeves to do this.

    That said, hacking shallow path sounds like alot of money, and if the cost is too much. (Also is this even allowed on unhackable support beams?) Personally I don't mind abit of trunking as long as they are out of sight, and my furniture placements will need to be very tactical.

    I do have a L-Box false ceiling in my Living Room and I suspect it will be highly utilised to also do "cover and concealment" :D

    If you need to do new wall switches for your lights, they will still need to run wire down from your false ceiling. Not sure about concealing along the support beams.

    Anyway, all these concealed wiring is prohibited and HDB can ask owner to make good to original condition. But I don't know whether they really enforce it in practice. 


  2. 33 minutes ago, ryanyth said:


    Sorry what do u mean by "concealing additional lighting / power points?"

    When you add additional lighting points or power points, electrician is supposed to cover the new wires using surface trunking. But as it's ugly to have trunking running all over the place, they hack a shallow path /trench along the wall, where the wires is concealed, and then plaster back.


  3. 8 hours ago, ryanyth said:


    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Living Room DB Box:

    Living Room DB Box Door Closed:
    (When door is closed, your computer/study table at most can only length 1.2m++ otherwise it will protrude out too much.
    59bffc145a648_DBBox-Close.jpg.0f2f3901f1d27d272548300320b6c2fd.jpg


    Living Room DB Box Door Open:
    The door for the DB Box is the swing open type. That means if you put study table right beside it,
    you will have difficulty opening the DB Box Door. (I request for my ID to change these
    doors to sliding type so i can put my table there, and still be able to access to DB Box space.

    Since the DB Box is die die HDB do not allow to remove, might as well make use of it.
    The bottom part i think quite useful can use it to store Small Broom, Dustpan etc.

     

    If you want bigger table space, one way is to custom made L-Shape table to fit into that corner. The DB doors will have to be modified where the top door opens above table top and similar idea for bottom door.

    Mine is the 45sm type (similar layout as HDB showflat) and I'm converting bottom portion of DB box to shoe cabinet, and add open shelve in the middle to put my barang barang.

    BTW, are you concealing additional lighting/power points. I'm still undecided about this as concerned about HDB fine etc.


  4. On 9/16/2017 at 0:19 AM, Suneeta Devi said:

    Hmmm I don't think he did actually! Well I won't be using the hood much it's largely for show - I did buy an extended 4 year warranty though because my last house the hood was the first to go. You can see the kitchen attached. Also a photo of it in progress, if it helps. 

     

    What I understand is that if no outlet is provided for, then the hood doesn't really work since the sucked air cannot be discharged.


  5. On 9/11/2017 at 2:59 PM, Suneeta Devi said:

    I installed a Bosch 60cm telescopic hood - it's 600 x 30cm but you can pull it out.

     

    Also as it's my first post, just saying hi to everyone! Mine 2-room BTO is at Eastbrook@Canberra...:)

     

     

    Thanks. I found out that Bosch & Turbo have these telescopic hoods. I believe Bosch is 2 years warranty? Not sure about Turbo though.

    I can't see from  your pic, but did your carpenter do an outlet in your top cabinet for the hood. 


  6. Anyone can recommend a slim cooker hood that's 60cm wide and 30cm deep. Went to Tiong Yeong and they referred me one Turbo model TSL-60  that's 60cm wide but later I realised it's 42cm deep, so will protrude out from top cabinet. I'm getting an induction 2-cooker hob that's only about 30cm(W)x52cm(D).

    P/s: As I only do occasional light cooking, the hood is mainly for show :D


  7. 14 minutes ago, Han Xiang said:

    I will try to find the tile code for you but keep your fingers cross. My other 2 bedrooms are of the same tiles I will upload the photos under day light and 4000k LED light probably next week. Also, my ID will be redo the floor tiles, door frame etc waiting for his detail schedule next week.

    The tile code is FCM95531 :)

    You mean the floor tiles are going to be hacked out and redone? It looks like you've already moved in? :unsure:


  8. 10 hours ago, Han Xiang said:

    you're right its on display at the balestier outlet on the left of the main entrance . I do not have the tile code as the ordering is handled by my ID

    It looks nice on their wall, but when I look at their sample back home under natural daylight, it has a kind of unnatural pinkish tint. As I prefer light tone wood, this is one of the few I like. Still undecided :(

     


  9. 5 hours ago, Han Xiang said:

    Hi Stream, the tile is from Lian Seng Hin $4 psf (not sure the store code) and its staggered on purpose. It has a nice finishing and i'll recommend the tiles to you, just in this case the tile is slanted.

    The tile code normally is stated on the order form. Did you get this from LSH Balestier? Is this the one displayed on the wall just outside the main entrance? If so, it's the same one I've been eyeing. tq.


  10. 7 hours ago, dietgalvon said:

    ADVICE ON HACKING OF WALL, PLEASE!

    Well, this brings us to way backkkk.

    Our quotation for hacking of the kitchen half-wall includes the following:

    1) Hack half wall - $600
    2) Clear debris - $500
    3) Make good tiles - $450

    (CX is certainly not the cheapest contractor but we engaged them anyway. This was the quotation we are agreeable upon for hacking of the kitchen half wall.)

    After the wall was just hacked, we received a text from E asking us on which parts of the hacked wall to be screed / tiled.

    My expectation would be, where it came with tiles, it would be replaced with tiles, where it came as a wall, it shall be screed i.e. to say, blue boxes are to be screed, the rest, tiles to be made good.

    But E said that, the 'top and windows side' are usually screed after wall is hacked and to replace the side facing the kitchen with tiles means we need to top up $150.

    Effectively, E mentioned that to replace the purple boxes with tiles, it would require a top up for manpower and materials (hence the $150 extra).

    But that made me wonder, what does the 'make good tiles - $450' in the initial quotation mean - to make good the tiles for the box in red ONLY (side wall facing the kitchen only, the top of the half wall is screed).

    Would appreciate those who had half their kitchen wall hacked share if it is normal to have screed wall (facing the kitchen) instead of wall tiles that it originally came with?

    Your interpretation should be correct ie. where it came with wall tiles, it would be replaced with wall tiles, where there are no tiles,  it shall be screed. "To make good tiles" means that all the kitchen WALL tiles damaged as a result of the hacking, ie. on all three vertical perimeter sides of the "hacked hole" in the kitchen,  needs to be replaced and should be under the $450 charge. There's no excuse for them to ask for $150 more.


  11. Hi Dietgalvon,

    Did you get HDB to do free screeding for your flat, and how much did the HDB sub-con charge on psf basis to level up to 45mm? Was your screeding done satisfactorily?

    Recently I've an ID who quoted me $6.30 psf to do cement screeding even though his prices for other works were reasonable. I haven't got quote from other IDs yet, but it seemed really expensive. He cautioned me that HDB sub-con anyhow do (he would say that wouldn't he?). With that kind of pricing, it would be cheaper for me to do homogeneous tiles instead.

     

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