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watchthewaves

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Posts posted by watchthewaves

  1. Posted

    Interesting video, but contains an inaccuracy. He said that a dust mite is 0.3 micron. Dust mites are much bigger than that - about 300 microns long (but still can't be seen with the naked eye). Their allergens though are about 10 microns.

    He spoke of clearing 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns. That's the standard required of HEPA filters. If you want that level of cleanliness, you need a vacuum with a HEPA filter. Or one of those air cleaners with a HEPA filter. Many people get by without HEPA filters. However, if anyone at home is sensitive/allegic to dust, then it would be a good investment.

    The Miele he tested probably has one. The Karcher that ZondaR is talking about probably has a HEPA filter too, IIRC.

    The Rainbow will likely suck up dust mites. Will it retain it inside rather than blow it out again? I don't know. Maybe it will.

    The Karcher? It's powerful, it has a "beater" attachment that you can use when vacuuming the mattress, and it has a HEPA filter. I think it'll suck up and keep the dust mite in.

    Want to see dirty waste water? The Karcher will show that to you too.

    Another thing - a bed bug is different from a dust mite. It can grow to about 4mm long. The Rainbow can probably deal with something that big.

    Above all just my view only.

  2. Posted

    Agree with that. samsung LED 55" max consumption 160 watts, at standby only 0.1watt. Panasonic 55" st30 series model power consumption 425watt, at standby 0.3watt. :jawdrop:

    Let me put that in perspective for you. LED-LCD TVs will run at about full power simply because the technology works by the LCDs blocking the backlight/sidelight. The power consumption is from the backlight/sidelight. On the other hand, plasma technology produces images by light emission. So a fully lighted scene will be at about max power, and dark scenes will consume much less power.

    Let's just say on average, it runs at 3/4 power -- so with the models you mentioned, that's roughly double that of the LED-LCD TV. So that's about 150W. Say you watch 8hrs of TV every day. 150W x 8hr x 30days = 36,000W or 36kWh. At current rate of about just under 25cents/kWh, that's just over $9 more a month.

    I find plasma colours more natural and prefer it to the generally more vivid, pop-out colours of LCD. For the price of a movie ticket a month, I think that's reasonable. YMMV. And not forgetting that generally, plasma is more cost effective the bigger the panel gets.

    But you also need to be aware of where you are locating your TV. Eg, if you watch in very bright light, you're better off with LCD, as the plasma may appear washed out. That also explains why when you see plasma under the bright glare of the fluorescent light in the showrooms, you're never impressed.

  3. Posted

    I believe it'll be URA. But check with your architect or builder and leave it to them.

    Presumably, you've checked out the basic requirements or seen neighbours do it?

    FYI, you can read up some general info here:

    http://www.ura.gov.sg/circulars/text/dcdrhb_d0e4.htm

    And here's an extract from that link:

    27 The conditions for redevelopment are as follows:

    (a) From Semi-detached to Bungalow or a new pair of Semi-detached Houses

    A semi-detached house with a plot size of 400m² and a plot width of 10m can be

    developed into a bungalow provided the plot size of the remaining semi-detached unit is

    capable of being redeveloped into a new bungalow (minimum plot size 400m

    2, width 10m).

  8. Posted

    Let say you want to a/c your living room; which is a huge square shape. Do you guy have some suggestions on how to partition a small room out of the living room when the a/c in turned on. Prefer the partition is movable and can be kept when a/c is not in use?

    I've seen mainly in offices these movable partitions to section off meeting/training rooms. You can try to google movable walls or partitions and see what you can find. However, bear in mind that you will need to give up a section of your room for these panels to collapse into when they are kept.

    The easiest, though may not look as nice, would be to have heavy curtains.

    Your decision might be influenced by how often you need to use the a/c within the smaller space. If very often, then the movable panels might be a better solution. If occasional use only, then the curtain could work.

  10. Posted

    Sound like a really good price. I suppose a question would be where is the granite from. Eg, I hear that granite from China is cheaper but might be more prone to staining than granite from India (I have no personal experience with this though). And then, even from the same origin, there are different levels of pricing too. So if you can identify the country and type/model of the granite that you want, then go get quotes for the same thing from other shops.

    And finally, you need to be confident of their workmanship. Here's where talking to previous customers would help, if you can get in touch with them.

  17. Posted

    Dear all,

    Thinking of hacking down my bedroom windows and install a balcony with glass panel railings. Does anyone know how much will it cost to install a balcony and if BCA approval is required? Thanks in advance

    Check BCA's Build It Right document for works not requiring BCA approval or permit.

    http://www.bca.gov.sg/WorksApprovalNotRequired/build_it_right.html

    It looks like adding a new balcony would need a permit.

    A first question though is whether your setback requirement would leave you enough space to add a balcony. Have you checked that?

  18. Posted

    Yes according to them , they are under the same boss. Blve n Blue is new i guess so no one has heard that before but i was attracted to the laminates in and out hehe. The solid ply they are using are treated solidply from indo.

    Meeting their manager later..

    What exactly is "treated" ply? Treated with what for what purpose?

    I'm interested in comparing ply with particleboard that has been treated for moisture resistance.

  19. Posted

    Hi jaskel,

    What is the substrate material you use for your kitchen cabinet carcass and door? Eg, some people use all plywood, others use MDF for door and treated chipboard for carcass. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each and what was the reason for choosing the materials you eventually went with?

    Seems to me that in Europe, for the quality cabinets, it is common to see MDF doors and treated chipboard carcass.

  20. Posted

    Since My ID Factory don't do ID, they only do carpentry using their high tech factory CAD-CAM factory using large robotic machineries for many ID clients, I used one of their client's ID services at Blve & Blue Design Works whose showroom is at 10 Arumugam Rd, #01-10, Lion Building next to MacPherson MRT. Ah... there you can see the push to open slide drawers.

    I will be getting their promo offer of $100 pfr for kitchen cabinets and $200 pfr for wardrobe WITH laminate internal finish and of course external laminate finish for doors etc. This price includes Revo Italy soft closing hinges and slides, and for the sink unit they package in free the stainless steel soft closing hinges with no additional charge.

    My other ID quoted me kitchen 45 ft with 'laminate finish' at $120 pfr with normal (no soft closing) hinges and slides. When I asked him what is the internal finish since he didn't state the internal finish. My the other quote that I get did not state this too. He said "white internal solid plywood". When pressed further he admitted it is PVC. I told I don't want white, I want light grey, then he said he have colored type too and show me a bunch of Wood grey and colour plywood. I said I want laminate for internal. Then he said laminate very expensive, nobody use in Singapore... People only use colour wood grain plywood which is the type he shown me and added the surface is very hard like laminate which is true. But I remembered that pvc plastics will crack after sometime and they dent and peel easily at the edges like a sticker. He shown me that it is hard to dent using his fingers. Then I took out a coin and pressed it and scratch it ... It became dented and scratched! He said nobody do that... But it is very common to knock the cabinet sides and shelves. He is trying to smoke me. I told him I want a quote on laminate inside finish. After some calls to his carpenters... Oblivously he never quoted this before...he came back with a price of $200 pfr! "But best price $180 pfr!" I told him that my Sister got laminate finish also and there is promo for $100 pfr kitchen with laminate inside finish and with soft close hinges and slides. He said not possible. I told him to visit my ID factory and Blve & Blue. After a few weeks I called him...how? He now works with my ID factory for carpentry works and laminate inside with soft close and their factory is impressive and offer is better than other carpenters.

    I like the way My ID Factory constructs their drawers. They use a 5 mm plywood base that is slotted into a groove cut by their computerized woodworking machine using special furniture design software. They hired degreed level mechanical design engineers to programme the furniture manufacturing. Local carpenter uses a very thin plywood like 2 or 3 mm only and nailed it to the drawer base. One of my house drawer fell off because of bad workmanship. I got to buy some nails and nail them myself... Now a bit ugly because some of the nails came off at the side because I did not nail them straight. I cannot be carpenter. It comes with under mounted soft closed slides, cannot see the sides when the drawer is open. This slide is more expensive than side mounted slide.

    I am going through another discussion round with Blve & Blue just to be sure. I have seen their showroom and factory contractor. I think i am going for the same wood grain textured laminate for the door and inside... It looks like real wood. I have brought my friend to My ID factory, they also were very impressed and will most likely sign with Blve. We are comparing notes now. Can you go get a quote and see what they quote you and PM me?

    The detailed info on your ID as well as their factory contractor is certainly informative and useful to all those looking to do carpentry work. Can't help but wonder whether you are related/working for them. If you are, you should just come up front and say it. I personally don't see anything wrong with providing info on a product or service, even if it is your own (forum rules, if any, aside). But just that if there are any connection, that should be disclosed. If you aren't related, then I apologise for reading too much into your previous posts. Maybe there is a simple explanation for these posts that I'm not aware of:

    Mar 11: "WOW!!! What a great deal! I am getting my keys at the end of this year, I will do the same too."

    http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry623519

    Getting quotes and confirming on promo offers now? If so, you are really one of the rare persons who plans so far ahead.

    Then, your "other ID" above quoted you $200 or $180pfr for full inside and outside laminate. Or was it $300?

    Mar 29: "I got a quote some IDs for $300 pfr for the same laminate inside and outside."

    http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry623520

    Or maybe it was just a 3rd IDs quote?

    Interestingly, Johnchua23 also started detailed posting about the same ID and factory around the same time. Coincidence? Similarly, while I learnt from his postings, I wonder about the relationship again because he said:

    Mar 11: "Try this.. Got a quote for kitchen in full laminate finish both inside and outside at $110 per foot run excluding countertop. Www.blveblue.com

    Price include soft closing hinges, soft closing slides, stainless steel soft closing hinges for under the sink carcass ... This is great because normal hinges rust fast!

    I am visiting factory to check out."

    http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry617716

    Apr 3: "I saw in the last Sat classifieds some IDs big advert... i think it is BlveBlue at Macperson mrt already offering full laminate finish, inside and outside at $100 pfr for kitchen with the soft close hinges and slides + stainless steel soft close hinges. And $200 pfr for wardrobe in laminate finish for both inside and outside. They say they don't use PVC solid plywood and only laminate solid plywood."

    http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry625425

    So in March, he got a quote from blveblue, then in April, he saw a classified ad and "thinks" it is Blveblue?

    Maybe I'm reading too much into things, if so, I apologise. An explanation of the above statements would be nice though. Otherwise, I hope the relevant parties would be brave enough to just be up front about their interest.

  21. Posted

    Went to check out on my reconstruction progress this afternoon and i saw the house behind me under renovation as well. Noticed the few differences

    1) I'm using red bricks for all my walls but the house behind me is using grey longer but thinner bricks (not sure if his is bricks but i could see a hollow portion inside his bricks).

    Is his better or mine better?

    I'd rather use the solid red bricks. Believe they are stronger than the hollow bricks.

    2) Drove by the house behind me to check out who's the builder but saw no signboard (ie those signboard that states TOP, builder name, engineer name, owner etc etc).

    How come his don't have? illegal?

    Might not be illegal. Could be that permit obtained, but did not put up the sign. So works approved, but offence in not putting sign up.

    3) I created an attic, could see the house behind me still maintained his tile roof. But the entire stretch his stretch and mine were built in the same timeframe so technically the roof also same age. So this means his project is smaller scale than mine

    4) I extended backyard, he also did so its the same

    5) His house bought in June 2010. Construction just started beginning of this year too (mine 3rd Jan 2011) but his progress seems so much faster than mine. Why? Smaller scale?

    Could be. Could also be they have more workers?

    Just KPO lah but my foreman says the house behind job is "illegal" wonder how true..then i start to wonder if i'm paying ALOT ALOT more than him. just for the main difference (new roof and new attic) then wonder if mine is worth it

    i got pictures of his bricks will post it when i get home.

  22. Posted

    I'm not so sure that I would accept their explanations just like that. I'm not in the business, so don't have any technical or expert knowledge, but I can't understand why a matte homogeneous tile would warp more than a glossy homogeneous tile. If there is warping, I would've thought it would occur somewhere between firing the tile and the tile cooling down. I don't see how the finish on the tile affects warpage.

    And if hipsquare2's use of the word "trim" actually means rectified tiles, believe matt homogeneous tiles can be rectified too.

    Uneven floor surface (lippage) could be caused by warped tiles, an uneven substrate (screeding not done evenly) or poor installation skills.

    So maybe you want to ask your contractor to explain more how the finish on the surface of a tile can affect warpage.

  25. Posted · Edited by watchthewaves

    Blooper,

    Posting in the private properties sub-forum will probably get more advice that you're looking for. There are some pretty knowledgeable and helpful regulars there. I'll just throw in my 2 cents here and hope its helpful.

    Presume you already know that you are allowed to go that high (eg, you've checked URA's master plan or you already see houses in the estate that high) and your question comes from a practical point of view only.

    Is it safe? Yes, if properly planned and built.

    To add another level, no one except a professional who has done all the necessary checks can properly advise you. One way to get a general idea is to look for a recently done up house in your neighbourhood that has gone that high, and simply ask the owner what he needed to do regarding the foundation. If you want specific info on whether your house has a piled foundation, the plans can be bought from BCA.

    The question though, is not whether there is an existing piled foundation, but whether the existing foundation in that soil condition can take what you would like. Even if there is an existing piled foundation, it may not necessarily be deep enough for what you would like to build.

    Like Synchron said, best to start talking to some architects and builders to get a sense of what's needed to be done.

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