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watchthewaves

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About watchthewaves

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  1. If an adult stands on the ladder/steps reaches out, can touch or almost touch the fan blades, I'd be worried. Consider wall fans or stand fans instead. Likely the upper deck no wind because it is more to the side than under the fan. My experience with this KDK fan is that the motor is quiet, but you get wind sound because the blades are going so fast. Can't be helped. To get less wind noise means slower speed, and at a slower speed, to get the same breeze you need longer blades. Any noise would be parts rubbing against each other. So check that installation is properly done so that the fan is securely mounted and is stable. If not stable, and it wobbles, that's when you'll get parts touching and rubbing.
  2. The party wall refers to the wall between you and your neighbour. As Lauer mentioned, the trench is built around the sewer to protect it. I believe this would allow you to build closer to the sewer. Check with your architect what exactly can or cannot be done if the trench is constructed, so you know your options.
  3. Tried reading up as well as re-looking at the posts here. If I understand it correctly, looks like different lights for different purposes. Lumens measures total light output (ie, measured at the light source). Lux (which is lumens per sq metre) measures illuminance (ie, measures light at the object being lighted up). So the lumens of a lamp is a fixed number. But the further you move away from it, the lower the lux number will drop because the area covered by the light increases. Their lamp produces 750lm with 12W, giving 62.5lm/W. This is pretty decent efficiency for LED, as far as I know. Yours produces 700lm with 9W, giving close to 78lm/W. Pretty impressive, assuming it's not being overdriven. Assuming that all the figures above are accurate, your lamp is more efficient but produces less light - 6% to 7% less. But when you start measuring how objects are being lighted up, we need to look at lux. So, if at 1m, they measure 200 lux, that's taking into account the beam angle - ie, the 750lm is spread out over the area covered by the beam angle (120 degrees, which is pretty broad). If, at 1.2m, your lamp measures 700lux (you stated 700lm in your post, but I presume you meant lux, because lm measures light output at source, so distance is not a factor), it probably means that your beam angle is much narrower than theirs. Likely different lamps for different uses. A large beam angle for general lighting (like ceiling downlights) and a narrow angle for accent lighting (eg, lighting up artwork) That's my understanding anyway. Still learning.
  4. My comments here are from a consumer perspective, who has done some research; not someone in the industry. For those who are looking for 100% guaranteed savings type of answer, I'd suggest that you stick to current PLC energy savers. I feel that we are seeing LED design and manufacturing just starting to make economic sense, so in maybe one to three years time, you'll see even better lumen per watt, have more choices and can also better tell the good quality ones from the inferior ones. But if you want to consider getting now, do take these factors into consideration: - LIGHT OUTPUT. Unless you are going to simply trust a salesman when you tells you that LED 12W equals to PLC 36W, ask for the lumen output too. As others have pointed out before, depending on the design, 1W of LED can output different lumen. For more critical areas, you may even want to be more detailed - look at lumen, beam angle, take into account how high the ceiling and what the light is going to be like at desk level, even get a lighting simulation done. Current LED technology is good enough to be able to provide good lighting for use in all the different areas of the house. You just need to choose properly. - QUALITY. No one really knows much about quality now because its too early to tell. So when you pay less, it could be "pay peanuts, get monkeys" or you could've gotten a quality product at a bargain. Like someone else mentioned, if you can, consider paying a bit more to get lights that are designed by established names. For now, just have to trust that when they manufacture in China, they will QC properly. Might also want to see what warranty you can get. It can be up to 3 years, depending on manufacturer. - PLC - BALLAST CONSUMES ELCTRICITY. But its not all so negative for LED. When comparing wattage, for PLC, don't forget to take the ballast into consideration. Many don't use the electronic one, which is more expensive. If you use the normal magnetic ballast, it can add up to maybe 8W-10W per ballast. So a PLC 18W could actually be consuming closer to 25W. If you're doing your savings calculation, you'll need to take this into account. - PLC - CANNOT TAKE FREQUENT ON OFF. For areas where you switch on and then shortly switch off again, not a good idea to use PLC. They die much faster than their rated life. Should be on for, say, about 20 mins. Also, they take a while to brighten up, but this usually isn't a major issue for most people. - PLC - MERCURY. Present in small amounts, both in PLC and standard flourescent tubes. Singapore, unlike some other countries, does not have a proper way of disposing of these lamps. They should not be thrown away with the usual garbage, but be disposed of so that the mercury does not get into the environment and poison it. If you care about the earth, think about this. End of the day, I believe that, buying with care, you can reap a savings after several years. You'll have a higher upfront cost, but long term, not only you benefit, but the earth benefits too. All the best with your decision.
  5. Anyone knows what "acid" or chemical is used to wash the tile floor after it is laid? Thanks.
  6. Don't forget that you buy at retail price and sell back to the grid at wholesale price.
  7. You can google for info on laminated glass and noise reduction/sound insulation. Or take a read of the technical bulletin here: http://www.pilkington.com/products/bp/bybenefit/noisecontrol/optiphon/default.htm Double glazing, which is the term commonly used for a glazing of 2 layers of glass separated by an air gap, is more for heat insulation. For sound insulation, the air gap must be big, like 6 cm or more. Laminated glass is usually 2 sheets sandwiching a layer of PVB and is more effective in reducing sound. It gets more effective when you use glass of different thickness. Its not just about the glass. You have to pay attention to the whole window system -- any gaps? how tightly secured? You can try Fascina. They are one of the more known ones. You can also engage the usual window makers who are cheaper, but you'll probably have to specify what you want and won't be able to really rely on them for advice. Then there are the smaller, more boutique type of businesses. They have good engineering and can cost anything from in between Fascina and the mass market manufacturers to way above Fascina.
  8. Main purpose of double glazing is to reduce heat. It will also cut the noise. But if your main purpose is to cut noise, should consider laminated glass instead. Get it with the 2 sheets of glass at different thickness. More effective.
  9. You actually have the answer in your question - in Singapore, it's to keep heat out.
  10. If the LED light is dimmable, it will say so on the packaging. If not stated, means its not dimmable. For the dimmable ones, I believe there are dimmers made specifically for LED lights. These will certainly work. As for the normal triac dimmers, I'm told that although they should work, some might not allow you to dim down beyond a certain %, or might cause some flickering.
  11. Two words -- "high end". But go take a look anyway. Quite friendly staff there.
  12. Woohoo ... good taste. Is this what you're looking for? : http://www.vikingrange.com/consumer/products/product.jsp?skuPassthru=false&id=prod9590165#product-overview Can find it at Eldric (showroom in Centrepoint): http://www.eldric.sg/products
  13. Thanks. Smallest they have on their website is M11SU. But still looks a bit chunky. Trying to find slimmer models. Anyone else can help?
  14. If anyone knows what brand and model, as well as where to get these, please let me know. I'm looking for white colour. Or if you know of similar small close to ceiling slim design fans, please also let me know. Thanks. Small fan 1 Small fan 2
  15. I'm looking for rollers with reliable mechanism that won't get stiff or breakdown over time. For those who have gotten rollers from Mr Chew, do you know where he sources the mechanism from? Local or imported (from Japan?)? Or he has both, and you choose based on your budget? Apart from Mr Chew, would like to get other recommendations from others too, on reliable roller mechanism brands. I'm also looking to get normal curtains. My pet peeve here is that after a few years, some of my current curtains drawing mechanism jams up. Either something at the rails jams up, or the drawing string frays and won't catch onto or jams into the plaster rollers. So again, I'm looking for reliability here. If can't find, then I may resort to opening and closing simply by pulling the curtains across the windows. Thanks.
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