w7_lee
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Posts posted by w7_lee
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The sink is supported by the 2 brackets below it. Probably due to overloading, the bracket angle has change a little and it had not been fully supporting the sink's weight, so the white cement was the only stuff holding it and with time, the cement cracked off.
The crack is only cosmetic. To DIY, just go neighbourhood hardware shop, buy some white cement and patch up the gap again.
Silicon also can but try not to use silicone because this is a wet area, so with silicon, you will get black mould real soon.
For contractor, check your town council website, there is a recommended list.
Good luck
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kappa is right, can easily find wooden pallets at warehouse area.
Right now, outside my office got 3 wooden pallets that's been there for a week but building cleaner lazy to dispose.
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At some point in writing your article, I think you got too agitated.
In summary, at the present, you have good water pressure through out your home except your kitchen sink.
So the problem might really be your kitchen tap. Try a new tap... a cheap one from a neighborhood hardware shop will probably cost $60 and buy those with lesser water saving ticks.
You can also check your piping. At my home, my main incoming pipe goes straight to my toilet but somewhere along the route, it T off to the kitchen. Make sure there is no valve along the pipe going to your kitchen sink (besides the one below the sink).
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My friend had want to polish the marble in his living room too some years back but bedroom floors was timber strips. His contractor (whom is his cousin) discourage it as polishing uses a lot of water and will seep into the bedroom floor and damage the timber strips.
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Learn from SAF days
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It's fine.... AC chemical wash people also use 'some sort of detergent' and water. Just don't spray into the electrical/electronic compartment. But one thing to note is that there will be dirt that will drip down the fins and flow into the AC drip tray (evaporator)and/or into the condensate pipe. These dirt will clog the tray and drain pipe if you do not flush them out.
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If you do not dispose solid stuff into the sink, then it's probably due to build up of grease (for kitchen sink), then go to normal supermarket to buy drain declogger (drain opener). It's a liquid solution, just pour into the sink, let it sit for a while and then flush with water. Some people recommend DIY declogger using baking soda and vinegar.
If you dispose solid stuff down the sink, benetay's recommendation is correct.
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Tiler Seng is right, you should check your neighbour's place and bring the SC installer too. My MBR also has such an opening but I had not use it. Still covered with wooden panel (original HDB). There is no metal beam.
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Back in August 2010, I posted about what I did regarding this topic. It's been 4.5 years now and I have not done anything since 2010. This is the first time I am attaching pictures, so hope it works. Below is the condition of the silicon strip that I had installed 4.5 years ago. Hope it helps those who are keen to resolve the problem.
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Some forumers post pics of their DIY work here. So there are some here that actually 'walk the talk'. Anyway, I believe Home-Fix also have a place (workshop) for hands-on people to use for their projects but need to attend their workshop class for familiarization of their tools/equipment (which is fair enough).
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Thanks for the enlightenment. So he was not talking about thickness but the cross section dimension. I worked in carpentry for a couple of years (when I was younger) and thought all those years wasted since I could not interpret his requirement.
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Hi Pelect, don't mind enlighten me what is meant by 4/4 & 8/4 thickness?
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What is the SI units of 4/4 (or 8/4)? It should be in inches (I think) but does not make sense to me cos inches normally uses 8 as the denominator. In any case, if you are not looking for a specific timber, just go to a furniture making shop and ask if they want to sell to you. Normal plywood furniture are (eg: kitchen cabinets & wardrobe) are reinforce with timber, so they will have solid timber.
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Yes, sand it to remove the rust & old paint. I would suggest applying a coat of primer and let it dry well before the marine paint. I actually did that to my parent's toilet about 10 years old and it lasted till now. Their flat are almost 25 years old now.
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Don't let it come in contact with water. But I am assuming yours is an older house with the steel door frame and has no wet/dry toilet section. A suggestion for you is to air it very dry and give it a thick coat of good quality paint. And paint the floor tiles around the door frame stem too. I suggest using marine paint but I believe it is not easily available in the hardware shop. You probably might have to search around Tuas Industrial park hardware shop. It'll probably last a few years before you need to paint again. My suggestion. Good luck.
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Toilet turning mouldy is primarily because of lack of ventilation. I normally leave the toilet window and doors open. Water heater will spoil with time. Normally when it leaks from the casement itself, it means that the internal shell is damage (punctured) and the water is soaking thru' the insulation foam. You will need to replace it with a new unit. Wardrobe & kitchen sliding door will need a contractor but small job... will be a challenge until one of the forumers here who DIY a lot wants to give it a go.
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I bought mine at Chai Chee Road, block 26A. There is 1 hardware shop there (and still there). But I saw it at many hardware shop around Singapore afterwards, probably because I knew what I was looking at. Self-Fix & Home-Fix sells them too. Actually, I think Giant too.
To the second question, you are correct. Although what I insert thru' was the steel braided flexible house (in hokkien called: nieng au) instead of steel pipe. This is what is commonly used below sink faucet to connect to the pipes. Link below for your reference.
The substitute I used (let's called it socket) comes in 2 different size at both ends. 1 end is large and should fit the but for the faucet. Install the faucet first using that side. Maybe it is my sink too deep, so I had some problem tightening the nut. So I use rachet extension to tighten. The other end will fix the steel braided hose. But if I recall correctly, the hardware shop owner told me that the socket comes in different size too, so it depends on your faucet nut size.
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Since you already say: Don't mind not having back that 10%', I think you can make the decision. If only taking 10% and you've already nickname him as Mr everything don't know, do you think the situation will get better or worst? Anyway, got lemon law nowadays, hopefully you can get back the full 10%. Good luck.
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Some years back, my friend bought a HDB BTO in Sengkang. Then got his contractor to come in and do renovation. Bedroom doors was remove (as he was replacing it) and had marble flooring and build-in wardrobe installed . When the door contractor came to fix the door, realize that the door frame was not parallel, so he would have to cut the door such that the top width is larger than the bottom width. Very ugly. Reported to the HDB. They came, inspect and acknowledge door frame was not installed properly. Option to my friend was either live with it or hack off the door frame and re-install (by HDB contractor of course; FOC). Problem is: marble floor already done, hack door frame will affect the marble floor and the build-in wardrobe too. So check, check & check. Do it on different days and look at different things. Don't rush.
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If a small area/section got accidentally stain by 'stray' paint, then maybe. But in your case, if the pipes got painted intentionally and you want to use paint remover... hmmm I am skeptical it will work. And when you try to scrub it off... you will scratch the SUS pipe. You can still try, start with a small section of the painted pipe first. If it don't work, you can live with it, change to a better color or change pipe (last resort).
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Cheap & easy way is to buy mahjong paper (or cardboard or any paper with design) & double side tape to cover up the panes. For mine, we got a Perspex shop to cut to size a piece of Perspex and install over the panes. A little bit more $ and more work for the installation.
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Last year this time, I was also researching it. I went to the TPY address but it was no longer there. Went to the Tampines shop, they only have 1 pc left and box looks like collected a lot of dust. Went to the PP shop and I believe they have 2 pcs. But end up I never buy. But in theory, I think it only makes us feel a lot of water is gushing out when in fact, there is water + air. The valve creates a vacuum that sucks in air which then exits the nozzle together with the water from the pipe. It might indeed slow down the water flowrate, so less water use.
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Ceiling fans are rotating, so it is advisable to use anchor bolts. I have a ceiling fan in my living room. When I change it a few years back, the existing mounting hole location did not match with the new fan. Only 2 of the holes could be used and a new 3rd hole must be drill. The installer fail to successfully remove the old anchor bolt (I watch & knew he tried). And it could not be fully covered by the new fan. So now, I could see a part of the old anchor bolt on my ceiling.
Solid Surface Crack
in Home Maintenance & Repairs
Posted
In engineering, corners are 'stress raisers', as cracks will form easily at these places. So sharp corners are usually avoided.
Notice the windows on airplanes are curved at all 4 corners.... same reason.
Anyway, solid top can patch when crack... at least that was what my contractor told me when I did mine 6 years ago.
But it is a small job, so not sure if any contractor is interested.