w7_lee

Hope someone will find it useful. Mine is a resale and previous occupant placed mats in the common bathroom that traps water. Guess they don't clean often, so when the water evaporates, it leaves behind limescale. I have tried different stuff (on & off) on this issue for the past 9 years; vinegar, baking soda, bleach, HCL. They probably work for some stains but not those in my bathroom. Recently work is slower and decided to give it another go. If don't work, may renovate it. Recent tries was HG Professional limescale remover and acid that removes cement. I think the HG brand is probably more suitable for taps, sinks, bathtubs. It did nothing to my stains. The acid works great on the grout lines but not on the tiles. Since the chemicals don't work, I decide to go back and try more primitive methods.... SANDPAPER. Had some leftover fine grit sandpaper (1200cw) from past projects and give it a go on the tiles. The sandpaper I use is waterproof and I cut them into thumb/finger size. Wet them and start sanding on the stains. Need to replace with new sandpaper frequently . Use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains that came off. I am quite happy with the results; pictures attach.

Happen to replace my parent's 28 year wall socket today. If you have not figure it out, pictures for your reference.

What you heard is correct, hanging rods (and brackets)are sold in most hardware stores, unless you specially wants the want in the link.

You can use the black insulation foam. It comes with double side tape on one side. It'll not make noise but will deteriorate and will absorb water (get soak). Polyurethane foam can try art shop or Popular (I think they sell) but be careful it done fly off and hurt someone below.

I have a similar problem in one of the room. Mine was because too much is packed into a tracking that was too small, so the insulation was compressed too much, the wet air reach the cold pipe easily and condense. Almost like your 3rd picture. Done by the previous owner. End up I remove the trucking cover, re-insulate the sections that was badly compressed, wrap the new foam insulation with insulation tape. And left them expose. Yes, it is an eye soar but no more condensation. Planning to change to large trucking when I have to replace the AC again (maybe in the next 5 years).

Since your sink & counter top is installed, I would just take the necessary dimension and go buy a new tap that fits. Necessary dimensions are (1) the diameter of hole and (2) distance from edge of hole to counter top. IMHO, your contractor is not professional.

Yes, it is possible. Your master toilet should be using a mixer (hot & cool) tap for the shower. With instant heater, only need to branch out from the cool water pipe to the instant heater. If will be your choice if you want to disconnect the hot water pipe (from the gas heater). But with instant heater, normally pressure is lower, so if you are using rain shower, not likely is going to work anymore.

Probably the electrician who install it provided just sufficient cable length to get his job done. I had a similar problem with my hall light switch (also just below the DB). I was able to re-do it myself. But my take is: for u to ask this question here, best you get a qualified electrician to re-do it.

snoozee is right. Better to replace the complete valve. On my first leak, I only had to replace the seal (white rubber O ring in your picture). It work fine for a couple of years and leak again. So I change the seal again but it still leak. I guess the quarter valve has worn off. Since it was 7 years old, I replace with an exact model. There is a general provision shop at Bedok North 85 market that sells the valve but I am not sure if it fits. You can bring along and give it a try. I saw 2 different size.

My bathroom is using a different design but for yours, there should be a small set screw behind the stem of the on/off lever (black arrow). You will need an allen key to loosen it (half or 1 turn). Then you can remove the on/off lever. The collar (if I call it correctly, yellow arrow) should be screwed on. You can hold the tap firmly with one hand and use the other hand to grip the collar & the turn the collar counter-clockwise to loosen it. The valve will be expose once the collar is removed. You will need a spanner to loosen the valve from the rest of the tap. Good luck. Just for your info, I also replaced my bathroom Pozzi tap last August. It was leaking again and it was not the O ring but thru' the valve itself. Since the tap had scratches (after 8 years), I decided to get a new exact replacement. It think it cost $60.

Over the weekend, notice the $40+ tap is leaking (water dripping when closed) again, so it lasted for about 3.5 years.

Since it's after renovation and you already tried cleaning and it still don't come off, get the contractor to make good. I don't think the varnish will hide the powder stains. But if you need to do it yourself, you probably need to use a fine sand paper to remove the stains first, then apply the varnish. You should test at a not obvious location first.

Orangy is correct. The main valve should be below your unit's water meter. It looks to me the rubber seal in the bottom faucets is damage, so even though it is closed, water still seep thru the valve, past the top faucet (just below the heater), thru' the heater & out the shower head. The rubber seal is a wear & tear part, with usage, it will wear off (same applies to the taps of kitchen & bathroom sink). The valve in the faucet can be replace but you will need to close the water mains, remove the on/off handle of the faucet to get to valve mechanism. Then bring the valve to hardware shop and get a replacement. Your valve might look like the below (at least mine does) but I have seen 2 different length, so having the sample to compare is better. Since the lower faucet that you are using is not an expensive type, it would make more sense to replace the complete faucet.

The rubber strip might be too long. You should check & make sure it is not scrapping the floor/track. If it is, use a pen knife & cut off a few millimeters. Like RobinHo0d suggest, push it back against the glass. If it does not stay in place, a little super glue at the end should do the job.

It can be done but will have to use wire casing (which will be expose).

DIY method.... buy some cement (I think I saw homefix or self-fix do sell some qty), fill up the hollow space below the tile, then place back the large broken pieces, let it dry. Even faster method is I can think of is forgot the cement, just use superglue but the pieces will have to cover up nicely. But this method, it will still be hollow below.

Home Fix or Self Fix

I think the 1st picture looks OK. The 2nd picture is due to the wall not flat and 3rd picture is that the wall not straight. I would say that from the tiler's perspective, they are correct to run the skirting flat instead of following the uneven wall. Plastering could flatten (and should smoothen) the surface but I think in your case, if the plasterer were to do it, the layer of plaster would be very thick and if it cracks & fall off (in future), it's a bigger eyesore and you have a bigger headache.

If the top white portion (horizontal beam) is made of concrete, then I think is ok to use an angle bracket if you wish. But if that part is made of plaster board, then my advise if not to b'cos it won't be able to secure the glass. The glass movement in turn will damage it. At my home, that glass is only held in place at the side & bottom only, so yours is strong enough to secure the glass in place too. The silicon at the top is just for appearance only.

You mention the leak is appearing on the floor tiles but I believe conceal pipes are normally hidden in the walls. So the leak might be somewhere in the wall and it is seeping up from the floor. I think a contractor is more appropriate and a regular plumber might not even undertake the work since it involve hacking (there are permits to apply and may need to do waterproofing before cementing/tiling). In any case, you could call a plumber and hear his suggestion. Then decide whom to engage.

Most probably it's the driver or the LEDs itself.

I look at the pictures and have to say that the first company is TOTALLY USELESS. Luckily you found the 2nd contractor.

Don't renovate the BTO. I heard of people who do not renovate, just get off the shelf items.

Hope he is OK. I remember that there was this service where they can spray a layer of coating onto the tiles. The coated surface becomes rough. My friend bought a re-sale and had not enough $ to re-do the kitchen. So he did it in his kitchen tiles and after 10 years, I saw that at around the kitchen sink, some had peel off. But the rest of the walls and floor looks fine. I guess the domestic helper might have scrub a little too hard around the sink. But I am not sure if it works on floor tiles in the bathroom. If your bathroom has a dry area, I guess it is OK to do it there but at the shower area, it might slow down the water flow to the trap. You'll need to talk to the contractor. Another option is to overlay with another layer of tiles. I believe there's only some hacking around the floor trap area.

Qoo10 is selling. Look for shower head with beads.