Changbp
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Posts posted by Changbp
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the cut edges split easily , difficult to sand, so have to glue in PVC edging strips and trim off excess edges. troublesome. I chose plywood as I needed the durability/strength of multiply to hold the vibrating washing machine, else would have gone with timber.
I bought from a shop at jurong east avenue 1 opposite the swimming pool. Not Cheap but the boss can cut to size for you.
I will have a couple of DIY to do next, make outdoor bench, some shelves to house shoes in the electrical circuit breaker area, and a behind the sofa countertop and a large mirror for the entryway. All going to use timber. As I'm going to use standard sizes like 1x4s 1x2s I'm going to try buy from chip lee timber
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The DIY tools... borrowed from a friend. Table/circular saw, jigsaw, drill.
Only the small toolbox at the bottom left belongs to me.
Made a workstation with Aluminium profile and Plywood for my DIY activities in the service yard. Actually this workstation was designed to be my washing machine pedestal but i have not braced it yet(short of 2 alu pieces to support the legs) and my washing machine has not arrived yet.
After playing around with ply for the washing machine pedastal, edges are hard to work with, difficult to sand and need to do edging strips. I think I should go with timber for my little outdoor bench. Need to come up with list to buy timber...
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Designed a simple outdoor bench with bottom to put slippers/shoes. Also a small table to put handphone or whatever.
Why the narrow left side?... Narrow side is for my kid to wear shoes, and the deeper side is the for me to wear shoes...
Actually, The bench is placed right outside my main door corridor with the water riser on its left. Its to clear the riser door and make it easier for PUB inspector to read the water meters. Peekture below shows the riser door open. In normal scenarios it is closed.
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Foxygal, I timed the time it takes from 32C to 50C. It takes 20 minutes at standard setting. That is heating rate about 1 degree per min.
5-10min heating time from the salesperson is subjective depending on what temp u need for bathing. I tested the water when the tank temperature indicates 36C. That was after leaving it Switched off for a day or 2. It is sufficiently warm(quite hot actually...) for me to bath in.
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Couple of things to note for her hidden door.
1. You will have a gap at the bottom. But u can take care of it with those under door sweepers. However the level of the floor where the door rotates is important.
2. If there is no restraint to support unhinged side the weight will cause it to "slant", you will have a uneven gap problem. Upper side big gap, lower side small gap. Over time no more gap... cos already Rubbing on the floor.
3. parquet don't like rollers. Need careful choice of roller material if your flooring is wood.
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ooOOooOOoo... hidden room.
I suggest you can consider having the built in cabinet extended(just a front panel) to cover the door so when you first enter the walkinwardrobe, you don't see the door at all.
Like the Chronicles of Narnia(or is that some other show name?)... Open the wardrobe, walk in and then go into a different world.
So the internal door could be disguised like a wall with a handle to slide it open.
Or you have moolah, you can have no inner door. To make use of this dead space you could have this space be a bookcase. Like earlier suggestion, the WIW front extends till the left wall.. except the section near the inner door is a fake wardrobe door panel. Behind the door panel is bookcase with books accessible from the other side. Then this whole bookcase cum fake door panel assembly is built to revolves around a pole. Imagine you push on the left side of the fake door panel, you revolve the bookcase section of the wardrobe in order to enter the hidden room. You'll need heavy duty stuff for this revolving motion or you could motorise this with lots more $$$.
Like those spy movies, you move an object to reveal a hidden door...
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Was wondering why you didn't hack off both sides of the kitchen wall? That a structural beam?
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Do you have a picture of the digital lock on your gate?
I saw one of neighbours had it installed but it was an extra panel installed to the gate and not above the handle of the gate itself.
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Did i complain before that the flush of HDB supplied WC is extremely bad? I probed more deeper into the mechanism and here's what i found.
A. Its a Rigel WC, you thought you got a good deal. However the mechanism inside is some chiong stuff you can find at mom and pops hardware shops. Though they mimick the Gerberit system.
B. The tank had capability of > 6L flush water storage as indicated by the engraved line and 6L marking . The float setting was at an inch below the 4L line. Guesstimate that to be 3.8L. This explains the dismal flush prowess.
C. I complained to the BSC and they say they can do nothing about it. As long as there is no leaks, they cannot do anything about it. Although their contracted plumber can do... But the plumber wants $$$.
. Seriously, I don't know what the **** BSC is here for, almost everything also either don't know or cannot do... I'll leave the complaints about the BSC in another post.
D. You cannot improve it much without part change as the overflow pipe had been craftily cut at 4L line on purpose. You can even see the saw marks on it. A molded part should have a end good finish.
So if you are a "handy-man/woman" and you had the exact/similar WC system as me or if you stay in dawson and need 3 flushes to clear your poop. Here's what you can do.
1. Turn off the supply to the WC. Full flush and remove the tank top cover. Twist and lift out the center piece (dunno what is this called, it's purpose is just to release water into the bowl. In my case, it looks just like the gerberit system, a chiong one of cos).
2. Mine had a few settings on this center piece. Without dismantling this thing to bits to understand its mechanism, i can only imagine that the setting at 1 would provide the most forceful release of water... that's what the manual said anyway
3. Replace the overflow pipe to a longer piece. Follow the pipe downwards and you should see a nut underneath the tank, unscrew and you can lift this out. (skip this step if yours is.. ahem...already very long
).
4. Adjust the float bowl upwards. There are 2 catches that you need to release.1 is red, that is for adusting the float bowl height, the other is white, that allows you adjust the whole float bowl mechanism height. Turn on the WC supply and set the height that the water shuts off around 1 inch below the top of the overflow pipe. That will get you the 6L of flushing water needed.
5. Seat back, take a poop and see it helps.
You should feel/see a more forceful flush.
Peekture for the above instructions.
ps: I'm all for saving water, However needing to flush 2-3 times everytime would mean more water wastage is still more than what my mod improved. If I did a small business and i only wanted to flush a lower amount, say 3L, I can still adjust it that the "blue" button to have flushing when there is no solids. I believe most people don't ever touch it. Mine came preset that the pushing blue button does a so meagre release of water that its like washing hands off a tap.
Edit: retracted the part on unethical, I just read pub standard code of practice is that it is now mandatory to restrict domestic WC flush to <4.5L to meet conservancy requirements.
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Here's a picture of the coolness of the control panel. this replaces the heater switch. The 2 switches above it are for bathroom lights. I had it located outside the common bathroom so anyone else does not need to come into the master bedroom to turn it on.
I had it set with 2 timers to have it temperature regulated at 50C on at 6-7am and 6-7pm daily.
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How fast does it take to heat up? Cos I was comparing Joven. Most ppl on renotalk forum commented Joven heats up v fast, plus they use 3.5KW power so heating it v fast, I notice aosmith is 2kw so I wonder if it will be slower? I asked e sales girl n she said was 5 to 10 min to heat up... Hmmm.... Btw u use e 40litre for both bathroom enough? How much they charge?
Warm up speed wise, I tested it during the install and I find it quite fast. Didn't exactly time it, basically from the moment the installer taught me the controls on the control panel and then moving into the bathroom to check the water output i can feel it already starts to feel warm. That is probably around 5min.
I will give you a more accurate account on my next visit, in which I will time the time it takes to heat up from room temp to 50C which is my current setting.
I haven't started using it as my reno is still in progress although most of the contractors i spoke to say 40L is sufficient depending on whether you take long showers or not. The design of the storage heater also plays an important role in the selection of the heater. Such as where the heaters are placed and its heating rate effect on cool water entering the tank. There are certain instant mode as well as single, multiple user functions that alter the way the heater reacts maintains the temperature to change. I didn't go too much into detail on these i suppose the controller just reacts base on the amount of heat loss experienced and caters the heating power accordingly. I just bought it because it looks way too cool
As mentioned earlier i was charged $680, included GST and Installation. Piping material cost not included as that was covered by my reno contract.
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Plumbing -- Horrible Plumbing!
5 days to move and we hit problems. One of them is plumbing.
How to run a pipe? Shouldn't this issue been dealt with like... thousands of years ago?
Whenever I see a few young men storming into the house and work in frantic paces, I can't help but worry that something would go wrong. Why am I so right?
Bent, twisted and unceremoniously mutilated!!
How should it be done? Here's a look at the piping work in my rented condo:
Pipes are aligned horizontally and vertically.
How to negotiate a bend? Use an angular connector!
I am so glad good work like this is not hidden. Do take a moment to appreciate this display of splendid and meticulous workmanship.
Something to show my ID and his plumber.
And to add, I am furious at my ID for thinking that was acceptable work.
I had this issue too. I made myself to be around during the plumbing works and I noted the bend marks. I spoke to the plumber he gave the famous 4 words that you have been hearing so often. "It's like that one..."
My stand was for places where the bend angle is little and the material bunching up isn't very visible, I let it slide. For those that you can see so many bend marks like dunno use how many wrenches to bend it, those have to be changed... Anyway i just let my ID jump at him.
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at the last count, probably about closer to 320 CDs over a long period of time , I think when CD took over cassettes
At my last home, I had a TV console customized for them but I didn't bring it along because its too big for my smaller flat now.I have tried converting them and sync them to ITUNES which is then sync to my old 60GB Ipod. But problem is my laptop doesn't have enough space for all the CDs as it was totally full and when I deleted them and sync again on Ipod, it will have all the exclamation mark appearing at the side of itunes which means the original have been removed.
So the main problem is i dont know of any device with such a big storage. Do I use one of those 1TB HDD?
On a side note, I think there is a quality difference listening to MP3 and CD and I still love my dinosaur CDs.
In the past when mp3s first started most storage is not as huge as now, most of the music out there is being rip at like 128kbps in order to squeeze more songs into a flash drive. Now drive space is huge. Try rip it with higher bitrate, say at least 320kbps Mp3 or 256Hz AAC.
I personally find 320kbps Mp3 rips are already like CD quality. Without intense scrutiny of a few seconds of a playback between the 2, trying to spot differences between the 2 is difficult.
If space is not a concern or if you are an audiophile (i suspect not, they don't listen to soundbar), then go for those lossless rips. I just find that not worthwhile since i cant hear the difference anyway why waste space and time ripping them too.
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Killer sink and tap!
Is that a Kraus sink?
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hello changbp,
I'm renovating my house too, i notice you got a AOS storage heater, how many litre did you get and is it digital? I'm not sure whether to get digital cos the price is ex, was quoted $650 for 40litre digital.
Yes, it's digital 40L.
hmmm... your quote is cheaper than mine. I paid $680. Moreover I was told it was fixed price when I asked for a discount.
I believe the storage heater should last at least 10 years, however the control panel might not. Probably just a lil longer than the warranty period if lucky.
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Was refering to upper cabinets. Their cabinets are designed to be hung on the wall. U can check out the install manual and you'll see that they use a metal rail to be mounted at the rear cabinet and the wall. So if you need to cut the rear of the cabinet to accmodate pipes than the rail has nowhere to tighten to.Hi Changbp!
Actually the current range does have acrylic/laminate (or at least non-veneer non-wooden) wood-style countertops! They only have the Saljan series online but if you go to the actual Ikea store there are quite a few. Still trying to debate with myself whether to get the wooden ones or just the wood like ones.
I'm actually quite curious about this Ikea-cabinet-need-flat-walls issue. We are going to be redoing the kitchen almost completely and thought that it's just a matter of running the plumbing and electrical wires at the leg area and then finding spots to pull it up to the countertop, is this not the case? I've also seen someone build a false wall for this.
Not too sure about bottom cabinets but I suspect it's the same.
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About $75USD. Free shipping for orders above $125USD.
I checked amazon, it did not state free international shipping for orders above 125.. you wrote an email to customer service to get it?Its ok, i get other types.
...bleh i couldnt find one that comes with cleaver thats available for free international shipping...
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Yeah, thought about removing the tank but decided against it as I didnt bring a wrench and i was alone. Not worth the trouble anyway. The rust will just be an eyesore but would not be significant since its stainless steel. Since its inside I would not be seen anyway.
I couldn't reach the wall screws on the inside wall either. That I believe may need to be checked more often as that has higher possibility of heavy rust as its steel with some form of treatment. Blue zinc or similar. Not as good as a stainless steel one.
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the U brackets holding the storage heater has already started rusting (and I haven't had the piping plumbed yet
...) Supposed to be stainless steel too.
Oh well, its free. So i did some DIY.
Happen to walk past selffix so i bought Hamerite (Direct to Rust) paint. Gold finish. A wire brush to remove excess rust off the screw threads and brackets and a 1" nippon paint brush. 1" because the bracket is about an inch wide. The Nippon paint brush sucks, don't buy it. The bristles started coming out and sticking to my paint job after only a few strokes.
The nut at the top needs touch-up, need a smaller brush... While doing this, I realise the painter did not do a good job, did not mask my storage heater while painting. Can see some paint marks on my heater and also the corner of my drying rack.
The outcome. Brushed Look Gold brackets to hold the storage heater.
I did a much cleaner job than a supposedly professional painter. 
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Master Bath with sliding shower screen. This i suppose is pretty standard. You can see the Xmas feature wall(column rather) on the right.
Pardon the whitish dirt on the floor. I had the tiler clean off excess grout from surface of the swimming pool tiles. The cabinet drawers were taken out to facilitate plumbing sometime coming week.
Wet area with swimming pool tiles. Picture here does no justice to the swimming pool tile. it has the kind of cracked spider web glass look. Solid!
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The tile was redone... and pictured with the grill.
Similar(slightly different pattern) strainer in the common bath too.
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Is the 2nd round painting done? If not may be able to ask for it to be touched up.
For mine The separation between the 2 colors was not as sharp line as I like it to be, the the uniformity can only be seen if if you zoom in on it but visually cannot be seen. I'm going to get the painter to touch up with masking tape! after all works are done.
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Cost for the wmf knifes and wood block? Is that free shipping?
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The floor tiles in all my wet shower areas are cut in the manner as shown in your top picture. It does its job.
All other tiles including toilet floor but outside the shower area have straight cuts. As per your second picture but without the two additional diagonal cuts.
One question I have: since you redo the floor, is it not possible to embed the aircon drainage pipe below the floor tiles?
Good point. Didn't think of this earlier.
It's an overlay though as HDB don't allow hack within 5 years. I'm not sure if the floor would be significantly raised to accommodate the pipe.
If I could go back in time I would have had the aircon piping all done up before any other works(carpentry, masonry) to even start site survey.
A Different 3 Rm Flat
in Reno t-Blog Chat - HDB BTO Interior Design and Renovation
Posted
Hello Lazarus,
There are many places where you can get alu profiles, I got it from Prestech at the Frontier building in Ubi as they are more service oriented and able to explain to you what you need and can recommend and prepare full sets of matching gussets, bolts for you base on how you wish to connect it and can help you drill holes and tap the ends.