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snoozee

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Posts posted by snoozee

  1. Posted

    2 hours ago, ygkt said:

    Yes, indeed. just checked the model specs we bought. its less than 600mm. :)

    just had a closer look at your picture. the protrusion of the existing cabinet seems to be more than 20mm. that wall (I assume which is the one where the gate is mounted to) doesn't look like 600mm wide. looks to me to only about 500mm wide. so even if your new cabinets are 600mm deep, they will still not be flushed to the wall.

    if you are going to extend that wall to 600mm wide and keep the door opening to be same as existing, you will need to hack the opposite wall which you already mentioned. the stairs will need adjustment but you are constrained by the IC which is at the bottom of the stairs.

    if you do not hack the wall, your door opening will be smaller by maybe 100mm and you may need to customize a gate, door frame and door which might cost slightly more since this becomes a non-standard door size.

    the cheapest option is just live with the protrusion and install some corner bumpers to prevent knocking against the cabinet corners.

  3. Posted

    I would suggest you keep your kitchen cabinet at 600mm rather than 620mm. I was told that contractors will do costing for cabinets based on multiples of 300 or 600mm. anything outside this "standard" multiples will cost slightly more due to more material wastage. this is because the standard plywood sheets comes in sizes of just slightly bigger than this 600mm multiple.

    for example, the plywood sheet is 2400mm x 1220mm. so if your cabinet is 600mm, the carpenters can cut 4 pieces of 600mm x 1200mm out of the sheet. but if your width is 620mm, they can only cut 3 pieces of 620mm x 1200mm out of that sheet. of cos that last bit of about 550mm x 1220mm still can be used for other things but wastage is higher since the dimensions of left over is odd sized already.

    hence it would be better to adjust your cabinet size rather than hack the wall to cater for a slightly deeper cabinet. After all, how much gains can you get from the extra 20mm of space?

    • Thanks 1

  6. Posted

    On ‎8‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 1:37 PM, galliano said:

    Thanks bro. But I'm trying my best not to do any major roof (and false ceiling) amendments. Am thinking of alternative such as putting glass, or changing the tiles ... etc. 

    Not sure which is the easiest and most cost-effective ways. 

    just install a bright light bulb in the area. turn it on when you need light. turn it off when you do not. most cost effective way. :)

  7. Posted

    your house has the ideal north-south facing which would not get the morning of afternoon sun. so not sure why you want to install roller blinds on the windows which are facing north.

    I also see your house have nice parquet flooring already installed. quite a waste to replace the hard wood flooring with vinyl.

    remember to buy a super long ladder so that you can change your lights for your new chandelier. :)

     

    • Thanks 1

  8. Posted

    these should be aluminum composite panels which are normally used for roof. my car porch roof would also be using something similar so as to minimise the sound when rain falls on the roof.

    as long as the joints are all done properly and the flashing from the existing roof to the metal roof is done properly, it should be ok. aesthetics wise, it wouldn't be that nice as having a seamless roof all the way from the top of the roof all the way to the edge of your bedroom wall.

    one concern I have is the very low gradient of this new metal roof. as the roof is not steep enough, you might get some water ponding issues due to water can't flow properly especially at the joints area if not done properly.

    question is whether you want to save 10k to 12k to just do this metal roof (I'm assuming this metal roof is costing you 2k to 4k to do) or just spend the 14k to redo the entire roof. at least if you redo the entire roof, you have a bigger assurance that no leaks will happen and your room is well insulated from heat and sound for the next few decades. if you go with the metal roof extension, if any problems occur in future, you will have to spend $$$ to rectify the issues and might end up spending the same amount or even more than redoing the roof in the first place.

    honestly, if it was me, I would just redo the entire roof. but it's your money so your call on what you want to do.

    remember the saying, "penny wise, pound foolish".

     

  10. Posted

    42 minutes ago, fastfatdude said:

    For the old single storey ones lesser than $2mil, probably are those with small plots like in Gembira Macpherson, Jalan Usaha or Opera Estate area.... they are all less than 1500sqft land. Which is rather small for landed.

    macpherson area have those 88x sqf landed houses which are still below 2M. opera estate don't have any listed below 2M anymore as of today. even for those units of land size of about 1300/1400sqf in opera estate are listed at 2M and up.

    the only "consolation" for those 1300/1400sqf units at opera estate is that usually they have more relax setback rules which allow for the house to be built on a slightly bigger footprint. as these units usually have a backlane at the back of the house, the house is allowed to be built until the rear boundary for 1st storey and setback of 1m (instead of usual 2m) for 2nd storey and the front setback is also more relaxed at 5m instead of the usual 7.5m.

  11. Posted

    1 hour ago, fastfatdude said:

    Almost bought a single Storey to rebuild. But brought a builder down and told me the trench will be sunk cost - literally and if can buy a place to avoid it, that’s best. 

    And he mentioned that electrical will not be sufficient for single Storey unupgraded source so that’s another 10-15k gone.

    Finally didn’t wanna spend so much and decided to buy a ready 2 Storey to A&A. Too scared of the unknown 

    If you had bought a single storey to rebuilt, it would have cost maybe another 900k or 1M to rebuild depending on your design. 

    A&A would maybe cost you 300k or 400k depending on how extensive it is. 

    so if add up total cost of buying price and renovation cost between buying the single storey and the 2 storey is about the same, then you would have been better off buying and rebuilt since you get a new house to what you design. But if doing A&A to the house can suit your needs and you can save 200k and up, then this would be better. 

  12. Posted

    these 3 core electrical wires are insulated with an outer layer with the individual wires inside again insulated.

    your toilet will have false ceiling installed after works are done right?

    so unless you are so lucky to have some kind of creature which is able to chew through the false ceiling and then subsequently chew through the electrical wires and also possibly cause a leak in your plastic/copper pipes, I would say the chances of a leak from your pipes causing electrical short circuit to your insulated wires is extremely low.

    if you are so concerned about this, then don't even have electrical wires running in your toilet ceiling. cos the chances of water leakage from your upstairs neighbor floor through your ceiling is much higher than leakage from pipes.

     

  14. Posted

    On ‎23‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 7:20 AM, Lin Normy said:

    Thanks for the comment.  

    Based on this information, it looks the that it is very serious problem if the hands on plumber do the job without supervision by a licensed plumber. But it is not clear for me that what does "supervision" means. 

    Foreign plumbers are required to have a valid work pass and licence, she said. Unlicensed plumbers carrying out critical plumbing works without supervision by a licensed plumber could be fined up to S$10,000 and jailed up to three years.

    https://www.todayonline.com/singapore/stricter-licensing-regime-plumbers-kicks-april

    quote from the article "They can also carry out plumbing works if they work directly under a licensed plumber, who will manage and sign off on the works."

    not sure what your concern is actually. any problem that might arise from the works in your house, the licensed plumber who signed off the works will have to answer for it to the authorities, not the one physically doing the work.

  15. Posted

    any neighbor hardware stores will sell the bits. else you can go to self-fix or homefix to buy the bits. make sure you get the correct type of drill bits for drilling walls and you have a hammer drill as well.

    if you are planning to drill tiles, buy the type of drill bits for drilling tiles instead using the masonry bit for drilling walls. set your drill to normal drilling mode instead of hammer drilling mode. this will miminise the chances of cracking/chipping the tiles when drilling. after drilling through the tile, change to the masonry bit to drill the wall behind the tile so as not to damage the tile drill bit.

    most contractors can't be bothered to use a tile drill bit when drilling the tiles in toilet or kitchen and cause cracks/chips on the tile.

  16. Posted

    video intercom systems usually operate on low voltage DC so there's actually no need to pull a 13A socket for your gate.

    normally there will be a master device with video screen in your house and this is powered from the mains via a power adaptor and a cable is then used to connect the doorbell/intercom/video cam at the gate.

    my suggestion is to search and finalise on the particular video door bell you wish to get for your house then plan the correct wiring for the model of the system you're getting.

  17. Posted

    3 hours ago, recharging said:

    I have an identical situation. How long did this relocation approval take? Are you able to provide indicative costs? You can PM me.

    Approval is quite fast, at least in my case it was a matter of days for PUB to approve of the new drainage plans. 

    Cost wise I don’t know as mine will be part of my house rebuilt. You will need to find a contractor to work out the costs if you are just doing an A&A or reconstruction. Just doing a CCTV survey will already cost at least 2k. So you add in the digging and laying of new waste water pipes, sealing of the old IC, creating a new last IC, joining the new last IC to the sewer, patching back of the floor which had been dug up, I think should be more then ten grand to do it.

  18. Posted

    my architect requests for survey data to be in xyz format so they can use the data to do the necessary modeling.

    anyway the surveyor will get hold of a known coordinate near your house and do the survey from this point to get the coordinates of your house boundary.

    engaging a surveyor don't cost you an arm and a leg so it would be better to just get it done once and for all. at least you will know exactly where your land boundaries lie and whether you are encroaching into public land or your neighbours are encroaching into your land lot.

  20. Posted

    go to jalan besar. from the junction of jalan besar and lavender street you can take a slow walk down jalan besar towards sim lim/rochor area. along the long stretch of road will be plenty of bathroom accessories, lighting shops on either side of the road. you can also pop by Mustafa center to check out their selection of kitchen hood and hob to compare prices

  22. Posted

    send an email to URA rather than call. it would be easier as the email would be routed to the correct department rather than you speaking to a call operator

    "maintenance only" depends on how the roof is declared during the submission. if you are going to build a stair or door to access the flat roof and have them in your submission drawings, then you are indirectly telling URA that you are planning to make use of the roof as a useable space rather than just a roof even if you declare that the roof is not accessible except for maintenance.

     

  23. Posted

    from what I understand, your walk up apartment would most likely be classified as a landed dwelling in URA's terms so balcony would be considered as part of GFA. it is strata because you do not totally own the piece of land the house is sitting on as it is shared between you and your downstairs neighbor and has no bearing on the house type classification.

    best is check with URA to clarify since they are the only one who can tell you exactly what your house is classified as

    roof top terrace will be counted as GFA regardless of whether it is covered or not as long as you have access to it. if the roof is only accessible for maintenance purpose, then it would be another matter.

  24. Posted · Edited by snoozee

    for the front setback, as I mentioned, it depends on where your house is location as in certain areas URA allow for less than 7.5m. of cos you can always write in to URA for clarification on why your neighbor can have a lesser setback :P URA may "advise" your neighbor to shift the wall to 7.5m if they don't allow for lesser setback.

    for boundary wall, technically it is with reference from street level. however in your house case, since your house is actually on an elevated plot, the stone marking wall is kind of a retaining wall so your boundary wall plus retaining wall height can be up to 2.8m. 

    ie: if your retaining wall height is 0.5m, you can add another 1.8m of boundary wall on top of this retaining wall hence making the entire wall to be 2.3m high. if your retaining wall is 1.1m high, you can add only another 1.7m of boundary wall above.

    basically boundary wall is limited to max of 1.8m in height. boundary wall plus retaining wall is limited to 2.8m in height.

     

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