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snoozee last won the day on March 30

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About snoozee

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  1. yes, nowadays people use marble gum to fill the gaps and grind down. but if the tiles are not laid to the recommended 3mm to 5mm wide, the possibility of tiles popping doesn't change. also do note that if you use marble gum on 3mm to 5mm wide gaps, it is not going to look good if you have marble patterned tiles due to the veins. it will not be that bad if the marble gum is used on single coloured tiles as the marble gum can be colour matched to the tile. marble is normally laid with a 1mm or lesser gap and marble gum is used to fill the gaps. my concern was the temperature fluctuations for the ground floor of a landed house is much more than a high rise apartment and cause tiles popping when insufficient gap is provided.
  2. need to do soil investigation. check with the previous owners if they have soil investigation report? or ask around neighbours who had rebuilt in recent years? unless you need to do your own soil investigation due to extensions, it is unlikely you will do soil investigation for your house
  3. what is your platform level and water table level? for homogenous tiles. do note that the recommended gap between tiles is 3mm to 5mm. many contractors lay the tiles with minimal gap to look nicer but end up having the tiles popping years down the road. my concern was also on tiles popping which is why i decided to spend a bit more on marble for my first storey. your photo grey tiles look like granite. i have that same colour granite for my driveway. do also note that tiles are not waterproof at the bottom. only the top glazed surface is waterproof. for driveway, heavy duty tiles are recommended to prevent cracking due to the weight of the car. there are 20mm thick porcelain tiles which look like granite. but the price difference for these tiles and granite is just 50 percent cheaper I got actual granite instead. another option for you is to lay granite cobblestones for your driveway
  4. yup. termite treatment, plastic sheets then lean concrete. i think it also helps on the waterproofing to a certain extent. lucky my water table level is 1.3m below my platform level. but my neighbour not so lucky. as my house is higher than his, when it rains very heavily water seeps from my side garden through the ground and party wall. so end up my builder helped him to do up a scupper drain to channel the water instead of having the water flow everywhere
  5. I think one way to mitigate is to use stone sealer for the granite and also apply waterproofing membrane on the concrete before applying screed and laying of tiles/marble/granite. my builder had laid plastic sheets on the soil before pouring lean concrete and then casting the first storey slab. later on, water proofing membrane was applied to the concrete floor slab before laying the screed and marble.
  6. Work out how many lan points you need first for your TV, PC, printers, media boxes, access points, CCTV, etc. you can then decide to have a POE switch for all of these devices or have a separate POE network recorder for your CCTV. Plan for more than 1 port for each room as you need for pc connection and tv as well a network switch will generate some heat so a fully enclosed cabinet isn’t recommended. At least have some vent holes for the cabinet. You need to decide where to terminate all the lan cables as well as this is where the switch will be located. Ideally it should be in the same location as where your fiber termination point is at so your other router and ONT for fiber broadband is also in the same place
  7. Paying more for something which many devices does have or support yet
  8. A dedicated LAN point is always better than going through another device. Connection speed will be reduced for your PC when the Wi-Fi is also being used for the shared access point. just imagine two cars need to go from point A to point B. Having two separate lanes is better and faster than having just one lane as mentioned, since you are doing renovations, just pull as many points as you need now. You can never have enough points
  9. You can specify in your tender. Also go down to site during the renovation to check on what products they are using
  10. Wall mounted AP is more for when there are existing LAN points on the wall but no LAN points in the ceiling. Performance wise, ceiling mounted would be better than wall mounted due to how the signals are cast. since you are renovating your house just pull points for ceiling and use ceiling mounted AP.
  11. You need to check if the APs can work stand alone or not. If they can then no need to use another controller for them. You can just connect them to your switch or router and pass the traffic through. Control will be directly through the configuration interface of the access point
  12. I was planning to use Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC-PRO as when I started planning for my house, the prices from taobao was very attractive at less than $200 per unit. But when I wanted to buy it, the price had gone up to more expensive than SG price. I was going to just buy from SG when I found some HP access points from ebay. at $60 per AP after shipping, it was a very attractive price. But I didn't do my homework properly as the HP access points can't work as stand alone APs and need to be used in conjunction with a HP access controller. So in the end, I had to spend another $300 to buy the access controller from ebay. So all in all, I spent just under $600 for my home WIFI setup. The only thing "wasted" is that the original HP POE switch which I had purchased earlier for the POE APs is not used since the HP access controller comes is also a 24 port POE switch which. One reason I do not mind buying used enterprise grade equipment from HP is that they come with limited lifetime warranty. So in the event the equipment fails, HP is obliged to replace another piece of equipment for me FOC. I'm using a firewall router from Ubiquiti as well. I went with an off the shelf device rather than building my own firewall/router due to the power consumption considerations.
  13. my house was rebuilt without an M&E engineer and QS. for me, i designed my electrical and networking layout for my house based on what i think my family would need. no point talking to someone on what i already thought of and then have the someone translate that into drawings when i can just indicate on the paper plans and then the architect put in the details into the drawings. I also designed the aircon requirements and how the pipes are to be run through the house. This would be a bit more challenging as there needs to be some detailed thought process on how the gas pipes can be run through the various floors to the aircon ledge or balcony. i am on site almost every day so i have first hand knowledge of what is the progress on site as well as understand any problems that could cause potential delays. the main contractor would have his own engineers (M&E, Structural, etc). the plumber will has his own engineer to submit the drawings. the electrician has his own engineer to submit the applications and drawings. so for a normal landed house, an M&E engineer isn't really needed. QS requirement also is subjective unless you want someone to verify and approve the progress claims (based on actual site progress and delivery of materials) before the architect issues the interim payment cert. cost management is also subjective as once you agree on the pricing, you are bound by it. unless you want to adjust the costing before the contract is awarded. but from the itemised breakdown of the tender bids, you would be able to see where you can adjust and cut to reduce cost which the architect should be able to advise you based on his/her experience as well. of cos since i didn't engage a QS, there might be more scope of work to a QS which i'm not aware of. do note that whichever consultants you engage, they are supposed to look after your interests and not the main contractor's since you are the employer. so this includes the RTO who will be directly under your employment as well.
  14. if your wireless access point has power over ethernet (POE), then you just need a cat 6 lan cable to connect it to the POE switch. the POE switch will then be connected to the router. if your access point don't have POE, then you need to pull another 13A socket near the AP to provide power to the AP. cat 6 cable is also needed.