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snoozee last won the day on April 15

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About snoozee

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  1. why don't you check with your contractor or QP on whether they have contacts instead? usually they would have people whom they had worked with regularly on projects who can handle this. also this is not a new ruling but rather there are changes to the regulations/requirements. for submissions after 1 may 2019, they must be following the new regulations whereas any submissions prior to 1 may 2019 will still need to follow the older regulations. either way, a PE (electric) will be needed to do the submissions to BCA.
  2. not necessary. assuming the entrance opening width is 2.4m and you have a split swing gate, that means each gate panel is 1.2m wide. so if your gate is installed at 1.3m from the front boundary, you will still have 6.2m clearance from the gate to the house (based on 7.5m setback) which would be sufficient for you to park your car inside since most cars are less than 5m in length.
  3. Why not just put in some stone pavers instead of concreating everything? The concrete will just absorb the sun’s heat and may end up heating your house when the wind blows the hot air from the concrete floor into your house
  4. Officially all swing gates MUST swing inwards. Unless your gate is set back such that when it swings out, it is still within your boundary. Main reson is for pedestrian safety if i’m not wrong
  5. depends on what you are buying. NOT EVERYTHING comes under WELS. certain categories are not covered under WELS but the majority are covered. I think some of the faucets which I bought locally a few months ago does not come with the WELS label inside the box (need to go home to check to confirm this though). edit: just confirmed that none of my German branded faucets come with any WELS label inside the box and BTW, BCA building plan submission does not require that sanitary fittings have WELS label. BCA does not check on this. The WELS check is done during TOP or CSC clearance by PUB officers.
  6. buy the floor plans from HDB. get a PE to look at the plans and determine which wall you want to hack. submit to HDB and see if they approve or not. 30 years ago is unlikely to have prefab for HDB.
  7. Yes. SIP will show the information. But you will need to know how to interpret the plan. If the sewer don’t run through your land then there’s no concerns at all
  8. PE is a must as long as building structure is involved. Architect’s role is normally everything else apart from items which involve the structure. One of the important job the architect will do is to do up the tender specifications for builders to tender for and call the tender. Inside the tender specifications will also be specs for doors, windows, types of finishes, etc. if you feel the PE is enough, then it’s your own call. SIP and DIP can be purchased by yourself from PUB/SLA actually. Some people buy it before signing the OTP so as to avoid building an RC trench. Depending on the depth of the sewer, the trench can cost a 6 figure sum to build.
  9. well, in URA website, it does say that a QP (either a PE or an architect) can do submissions for A&A works. assuming that the PE can submit to URA for your reconstruction with additional storey, how confident are you that the PE will know all the necessary building regulations to design your house according to the allowed guidelines? the building/renovation of a house is not just involving URA or BCA. there are other agencies involved as well like PUB, NEA, SCDF, LTA, NPARKS, IMDA. I would suggest you speak to your PE to ask if they can do all the submissions to all agencies for you from approval of project to TOP/CSC. if your PE can and is willing do everything, then good for you to save on architect's cost. honestly speaking from personal experience, having different consultants for different purpose will save you money and headache. if you are not well versed in all the technical requirements and such for buildings, then having the additional person (architect) to check/verify the requirements is better than just relying everything on the PE to do. remember that humans do make mistakes. and mistakes in construction can become costly.
  10. I don't think you can just build an extra toilet as and where you like. the most important thing is where are you going to run the waste water pipes? in HDB flats, all sewer pipes from the toilet are connected to a waste water stack for connection back to the public sewer. In condos, it would most likely be a similar arrangement as well. so unless your downstairs neighbor allow you to hack their walls and ceilings for connection of a new waste pipe, what you are thinking of doing is simply not possible. not to mention that the MCST would most likely reject your request as well.
  11. question is whether you are engaging the PE directly or through a contractor. price will also vary between different PE firms based on what type of jobs the PE are normally handling. if normally handling big jobs, price also will be higher compared to those who are normally handling small housing jobs. do also note that chances of PE who are used to handle big jobs, may end up with higher specifications and designs as they are used to that kind of tolerances required for big jobs. since you adding another storey, you will need an architect to do the submission to URA and such. if you builder is quoting you a lump sum for everything, chances are that the architect is just putting the name on the submission to authorities and will provide minimal/no design input on your house design.
  12. think should be at least high tens to mid twenties of thousand. you should be paying for the design of the upgraded existing columns and beams, additional/upgrade foundations (if needed), new household shelter, new columns and beams, new floor slab for 3rd storey, roof, railings. not to mention the PE would need to study the existing house plans as well as the soil investigation report. quite a lot of things to be done by the PE and not simply just put down the name and sign on the drawings.
  13. sometimes it's not the roof that is the issue but how/where the room is facing as well as the windows. if you have a room and windows which are west facing and getting direct sun, then the room will be heated up due to the heat coming directly in from windows. but if you have a canopy/sun-shade above the window which reduces the impact of direct sunlight, it will help in reducing the heating effect of the sun. you could also install window films which cuts out infra red light which can help reduce the amount of heat coming in through the windows. also the brick walls serve as a thermal mass which stores the heat from the sun and releases it slowly throughout the evening and night which adds on to the heating effect. so apart from moving to another room, it would be up to you to do trial and error to see what can help in reducing the heat from the sun
  14. I think most of not all OTPs will have some clause which covers illegal works. But whether the untrained eyes can see it or not is another thing and property agents won’t mention anything at all as well even if there are illegal works. I had came across some houses with illegal works previously when I was house hunting and best is stay far away from these houses unless the plan is to do a total rebuild then the illegal works become negligible.
  15. "not comfortable to provide" sounds like a bad excuse to me as you will get hold of the information ultimately. if the agents are doing this for you FOC, then go ahead. Make sure the surveyors also look through thoroughly on whether there are any illegal works as you become liable for them after the completion. if you need to pay for the survey, then it will be much cheaper to buy the plans off BCA then getting a surveyor to do a survey and draw up the plans. BCA search fees is $25 and then you pay another $25 for each set of registered plans. so in all, you may end up needing to pay $50 for the plans only. ultimately, you will still end up needing to buy the plans from BCA if you decide to do some major work as no survey can give you information on what is below the ground for the house's foundations.