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snoozee

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snoozee last won the day on March 27

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  1. waste disposal is not FOC. I suggest you walk/drive around your neighbourhood and see if any houses are being renovated/rebuilt. then talk to the workers nicely and see if you can tompang them to dispose of your tiles when they do major disposals. usually they won't reject but if you need them to bring from your house as well, then pay them some kopi $$$ la.
  2. it's not about better. it's about how much power you need for your house. for example, a 32A induction cooker would draw 7.36KVA of power (at max). so if the house has a single phase 100A 230V supply, the maximum available power is 23KVA which would mean there is only 15.64KVA available for other appliances like aircon, water heater, etc. But for a house with 3 phase 60A 400V supply, the appliances with heavy loading can be spread evenly across the 3 phases, eg: induction cooker is on brown phase, water heater on black phase, ducted aircon on grey phase. with a total available power of 41KVA, there's also slightly more room for installation of appliances which need higher current draw.
  3. Google Mesh is more of a home device. With Ethernet Backhaul, the data is transmitted via the cable instead of wireless so the node now acts as an access point instead. Again the important point is that there needs to be a network point in the room with pre-laid ethernet cabling for this to work. the latest building regulations from IMDA specifies that there needs to be at least 1 Cat 6 network point in each room and kitchen, 2 for master bedroom and 2 for living room. But I'm more kiasu and am providing more than the required points. :P In any case, my telephone points are also run using cat 6 cables and can be converted to network points if needed.
  4. unfortunately for WIFI extenders or mesh, you always need line of sight between the nodes to get optimal performance. so with walls in between the nodes, you will always experience signal loss which results in loss of bandwidth/speed. with enterprise access points, you have a dedicated physical wiring connected to the access point which leads back to the data switch/router. each access point needs a physical wiring. so with this, no matter which access point you are connected to, you can get the optimised signal as long as your device have line of sight with the access point. even if your device does not have direct line of sight (eg : access point is outside the room), the signal loss would not be as great as the access point simple received the signal from your device, sends it down the wire to the router, then upon receives the data from the router via wire, sends it to your device. compare to a mesh or WIFI extender where the node has to receive the signal, send it wirelessly to the next node, then the next node may have to send it to the next node or router before sending back the data to the original node and sending it back to your device. of cos one way to improve the speed of mesh/wifi extenders is to buy more nodes and add them to the network. but this just increases your upfront cost as well as running costs as each node will use electricity. but an enterprise grade access point does not come cheap as well with some models in the 4 digit price range. however one need not shell out a bomb for these high end models as they are usually used for areas where there is a need to serve a few hundred people per access point. an entry level enterprise access point could cost about the same as a home mesh networking kit. the main drawback of using enterprise access points is the need to pull physical cables to the location where the access point is to be located. even though some enterprise access points can perform WIFI bridging (similar to mesh/wifi extender), one would face the same problem as mesh networks when using this mode. also one would need networking knowledge to set up the access points properly when there are multiple access points in a home such that the signals don't interfere with each other. to know what models are available, just google "enterprise access points" and there would be plenty of models from various manufacturers.
  5. I’m referring to the right side of the wall where the gloves are being hung from the rebars which are stuck in between the bricks. Normally a concrete stiffener would be cast with these rebars already in and tied to the vertical rebars of the stiffener then the bricks would be laid with the rebars in between every 4 layers of brick. Of cos there are multiple ways to skin a cat so this way should work as well. a concrete foundation is standard for building a brick wall. Cannot just build on soil as the wall may collapse in time due to soil movements
  6. interesting that your contractor's workers build the brick wall first before erecting a concrete stiffener to tie the brick wall to. my main contractor's workers always cast the concrete stiffeners first then build the brick walls. I suppose the recessed area on the left is for your meter compartment. from the photos it looks like the workers just lay the bricks to abut your neighbour's boundary wall column. hope that in future if your neighbour redevelops the house and tears down the column, it won't affect/damage your meter compartment.
  7. I would suggest to just paint the external as well since you are doing renovations now. exterior paint is not meant to last forever which is why you see normally HDB flats get a fresh coat every 5 or 6 years. also the only protection from exterior water seeping through the concrete/bricks is the exterior paint. so better to do a new coat of exterior paint as well. unfortunately if you want to do concealed lights, then the only way is to do a false ceiling. not sure if your 9 LED would be overkill or not unless you are getting those low wattage LED lights. you might be better off getting 4 slightly higher wattage LED lights and then configuring the light switch to have them turned on/off individually. do note that a "normal" fluorescent tube of 40W gives out about 3000 lumens of light. so you will need to work out how much brighter you want for the rooms and then calculate the wattage of the LED lights you want to get. the higher the wattage of the LED lights, the bigger they are. but if you want to add another light to the room without adding ceiling can always hack the ceiling and extend the existing wire to add on another light. but this is subjected to the existing loading of the breakers in the DB. since you redoing wiring, might as well add on network points for each room. pay TV are all using internet now so it is good to have at least one for each room. personally I don't believe in using mesh or network extenders unless there are really physical constraints. for my own house, I would be using enterprise grade wireless access points for my WIFI solution. this would eliminate the speed losses which are a common problem with mesh network and wifi extenders. for aircon, you need to check what is the existing type of gas that is being used for the units. some old aircon are using R22 gas which means the pipes can't be used for R410 aircon models. but I do know of at least 1 major aircon manufacturer which touts that its R410 aircon can be used on R22 pipings.
  8. not sure if your job need to do submission. but mine also have labels on the sockets and DB, etc as later need to perform electrical testing by SP. they will also provide a single line drawing for me after commissioning as well. I think these are the basic requirements for electrical installation for submission to SP. I had wanted to have DB boxes for each floor initially but ended up giving up the idea as the space needed to house the DB box would become wasted. so ended up centralise everything in my main store room instead.
  9. congrats on your purchase. FYI, there is no 4 storey landed house in Singapore. yours should be a 3 storey house with attic. is yours a semi-d or inter-terrace? marble polish could be 1 or 2k I guess? parquet sand down and re-varnish could be 1k plus at least. painting could set you back by maybe 10k to 15k for whole house. semi-d got more external walls so would cost more as also need to erect more scaldfolding. note that after you tear down those feature walls or build in furniture, you need to do the plastering of the walls again so will incur additional cost. why do you want to do false ceilings? to hide the beams? by doing up false ceilings, your rooms will become "shorter" and will look smaller. unless its for fengshui or other reasons. for normal gypsum board ceilings, expect to pay about 8k to 10k for your rooms (estimated cos don't know the exact sqf required). if you need to do ceiling for toilets, then need to use calcium silicate boards which would be more expensive. a build in wardrobe would cost about 260 to 300 per foot run depending on height of your ceiling. so a 10 feet wide (3m) wardrobe would set you back by about 3k. not sure how many aircon you want to replace. but for your 3.5 storey house, I would guess at least 6 wall mount units and 2 ceiling cassette units. so expect to budget at least 30k for this. if you want to rewire every room, expect to pay quite a bit for this especially if the existing cables are all concealed. cos your contractor may need to hack the walls to find the wiring junction boxes and this will end up adding up the cost as then need to patch back the walls before painting. I would think 150k should be doable. but again i'm not a contractor so some items are guesstimates.
  10. check with your contractor and SP on whether SINGLE PHASE 100A requires inspection or not. I may be wrong here as I know THREE phase 100A would require inspection. a single phase 100A at 230V will be at 23KVA 3 phase 60A at 400V would be at 41KVA 3 phase 100A at 400A would be at 69KVA from what I read, EMA requires anything more than 45KVA do have annual inspection. so a single phase 100A is only 23KVA so might not require annual inspection. but you need to determine if 100A is sufficient for your usage or not especially if you want to run aircon, induction cookers, etc all at the same time. for solar power sell back to grid, you will need to "pay" a transmission cost. for example if currently SP is selling you electricity at 23 cents per KW, when you sell back to them, the price you get from selling would be about 18 cents per KW after deducting the transmission cost. the numbers I provided are not the exact number but just to illustrate the point of transmission costs. since you are doing up your house now, just provision for an isolator for future use if you do not want to install solar panels now. else next time have to run wires would be more messy.
  11. I didn't lay gas pipes for my house. wife isn't comfortable with having gas cylinders in the house as well so we are going full electrical. why don't get 3 phase 63A instead of single phase 100A? for 100A supply, you will need to have a LEW do yearly checks. 3 phase 63A need not do the checks. even if you need to pay $5671 to SP for applying for ne 3 phase 63A, it would still be cheaper than having to need an LEW do yearly checks for your 100A single phase supply. do note that for induction/ceramic hobs, there are many models. the more heating zone you have, the higher the power supply is needed. some 4 zone hobs need to have 32A supply. there are some models with 28A or 15A supply as well. some models for HDB only require a 13A supply but only have 2 zones. so if you are rewiring your house, just pull a 32A supply for the hob just in case next time you change to another model which requires higher electrical supply.
  12. question is whether you are buying for short term investment or for long term stay? if short term investment, then no harm wait a bit more to see where the prices are moving. if for long term stay, if you see a suitable house, then no harm getting it now.
  13. if I'm not wrong, PUB requires a minimum of 1:90 and maximum of 1:70 gradient for the waste pipes so you can check if your pipes are within the range or not. of cos slightly more seems better but is it necessary? if there's any chokes, it would be more due to your under sink water trap being choked rather than the drain pipe. I assume that you would be building a cabinet and counter top over this area. by running the pipe in this manner, it allows the pipe to be hidden below the cabinets as well. unless you want your pipes to be run something like my picture then you will have problems hiding the pipes and having proper storage area for the cabinets.
  14. maybe you can elaborate on what you want to do? can't give you advise if no one knows what you have in mind
  15. Just to add on to what AWS mentioned, the "leak" along the duct is more due to condensation on the ducts rather than actual water leakage. however, this should not happen if the ducting is properly insulated when being installed. ducted aircon utilises a big blower unit to push air through the ducts. the sizing of the blower and corresponding condenser unit depends on the area needed to be cooled. so a ducted aircon can have same BTU rating as ceiling cassette units. one thing I missed out to mention is that the bigger BTU required, the bigger the size of the condenser unit. a 42K BTU condenser unit can be more than 1.2m high depending on brand and model. so if you do not have the space to install/move such a big condenser unit, then you may have to use a smaller BTU unit which provides lesser cooling. so in order to achieve the same cooling for a room, 2 sets of aircon may be needed. if there's no space for 2 sets of ducting and blower units, then choosing ceiling cassette or wall mount units would be preferred unless one can live with slightly less cooling.
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