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snoozee

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snoozee last won the day on October 17

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About snoozee

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  1. When my QP was booking the date for TOP inspection in late August, the next available date reflected in the BCA TOP/CSC portal was 2 months later meaning late October Subsequently we managed to change to an earlier date. hope you can get lucky as well when your QP goes in to book
  2. not much difference unless you need to do special things to the land like digging a basement
  3. the owner of the land where the retaining wall sits on is responsible for it
  4. brick/concrete always work as a thermal mass and stores heat. metal roof is thinner so won't absorb the heat that much. you can put a brick and metal plate of same surface area under the hot sun for one afternoon and see which one still feels hotter after the sun goes down. moreover a metal roof is constructed with the metal skin as the top layer. between the false ceiling and metal roof are a sandwich of water proofing material, heat insulation material, zinc metal sheet. wiremesh and aluminium foil. all these provides the water proofing and heat insulation. your architect should know what to spec out for the builder as this is quite standard.
  5. even if don't do during construction, at least cater for the wiring first. I stand by a 32A isolator at my attic level for solar panels in case I install it in future. Kinda regreted not also adding a 32A isolator for my car porch area in case next time need to use electric car
  6. Not sure how true. I just DIYed window films for some of my house windows today so see how long they would last. louver windows is still a window and heat will penetrate through the glass/aluminium. for roof, if you are doing RC roof, then solar panels would act as another layer of shade to block the direct sun from heating up the RC roof. How well it would act as insulation I'm not too sure. But if you want to really have heat insulation, get your architect to specify in roof insulation materials as part of your requirements. the insulation materials can be placed between the RC roof and your false ceiling to act as insulation. If you are doing metal roof, then the insulation material would be part of the roof's "sandwich" of materials to provide the heat insulation. I did a metal roof for my house and can't feel any heat from in my attic during the hot afternoons. Only the evening sun which shines directly into the attic rooms caused the heating effect which now is mitigated by the solar film which had cut out the most of heat effectively.
  7. that bro hasn't logged on for ages. I PMed him on this as well but didn't get any reply
  8. if your pool is going to be in-ground, can't buy it elsewhere. your architect would need to put in into the initial design for URA's approval and the builder construct it as part of the contract
  9. Your pool can be whatever width you want and the upper storeys need not be die die beyond the pool width. If your pool is until 3m from the boundary, your upper storeys still can be 2m from the boundary. The PE just need to design the 2nd storey beams to be cantilevered out and problem solved. a building no need to have columns die die at each corner as long as the beams can be counter balanced or pulled back in some way
  10. for a detached house, the maximum site coverage is 50% for non CGB areas so the maximum building footprint you can have is about 2000sqf. so based on this, a "standard" 2.5 storey house would have a built up GFA of about 5000sqf to 5200sqf. if one wants to increase the built up area, basements can be added or mezzanine added as well. your builder's quote of 1.5m if based on a max GFA of 500sqf would be about $300psf which is quite reasonable as it seems that many are quoting at $350psf even before this COVID situation. do note that construction cost does not include professional and authorities' fees. so be prepared to set aside another 100k to 200k for these fees depending on the QPs you engage. I think what is important now is for you to find an architect who can help you design up the house first. once the house is designed, then you can see how you can cut back the costs by tweaking the designs.
  11. might not be the case. piling would be needed to create new support for the upper storeys since the existing foundation won't be able to support the new upper storeys when the first storey is retained. my thought is that the new piled foundation is solely only for the new storeys and not joined to the existing one (I may be wrong on this though) since there's no way to dig big enough holes in the ground for footings or do a raft foundation since the existing foundation is in the way. but if the soil conditions are good enough and the house can be built on footings or raft foundation, then there's no need to do piling at all for a complete new built. I think what TS should do now is to engage a PE, then get a soil investigation company in to perform the soil investigation for the land. then from there determine if piling would be required or not. of cos if the house is located in a well known estate with low lying area with marine clay soil, then most likely need to do piling. but even then, within these type of estates, there are higher areas which have good soil which need not do piling at all. So paying 3k for the SI report is important before the start of the project planning.
  12. you are not going to save 300k on retaining the existing structure. if you are lucky and your house is in a area where there is good soil, you may escape with just doing footings or a raft foundation. this could save you maybe close to 100k from doing piling. to do fencing instead of build brick walls as boundary wall will mean quite a bit of savings as well. opt for those mid-range or lower ranged sanitary ware. a $300 toilet bowl compared to a $1k toilet bowl means $700 savings. multiply that by say 6 toilets will mean about $4k in savings. don't splurge on smart switches, etc. do normal ones which are non-designer stuff opt for half height tiling for toilets unless necessary like in shower areas. you save on the cost of tiles and labour for tiling. but still need to pay for plastering and painting which is still cheaper than tiling. for flooring, marble would be most expensive. getting big homogeneous tiles for living room will look good as well. if you like hard wood floor for rooms, get parquet instead of engineered wood. else just do tiling as well for the rooms. light fixtures can order online from China. can save quite a substantial amount as well though you may need to pay the electrician to install them since your main-con can't earn from this. for ceiling fans, no need to buy those $400 and up DC fans when a $200 AC fan will perform the same job. unless you want to splurge $3k on a 84 inch Haiku fan to make your house look grand, else getting a few normal ceiling fans or standing fans will also work. the ducting for ducted aircon will cost much more than the aircon unit itself. get ceiling cassette units to save on the cost. if you can live with exposed beams on the ceilings, tell your main-con or PE that you do not want to have false ceilings and ask the PE to design flat beams instead. a normal beam will be about 500mm to 600mm thick whereas a flat beam will be about 300mm to 400mm thick. no false ceilings = $$$ saved for the roof structure, can ask the PE to design using steel columns and beams instead of RC. then do a metal roof. this will cut the construction time as well as lower the cost a bit. sliding windows are cheaper than casement windows. no need to pay extra for low emission glass as normal glass will work. if want to block out the sun, do solar films later on. doing normal metal railings will be much cheaper than glass railings. anyway, there's many things that can be done to cut costs. how much the house costs eventually really depends on how much you want to splurge on the finishes. by cutting down on the luxury finishes, you can save quite a bit of costs on the construction.
  13. Don’t think you can save much from a reconstruction vs a rebuilt. You need to put in new piles either way and there won’t be much cost difference. The cost of the actual building structure is maybe 15% to 20% of the entire project cost. So conserving the original 1st storey structure won’t save you much compared to if you are doing a reconstruction for an existing 2 storey house. let’s say you can save 50k from conserving the 1st storey. But the existing structures prevent you from the ideal design layout you have for the first storey. Would you spend this 50k to get your ideal house or save on it now but end up thinking “what if I had just spent that 50k initially“ in future
  14. since it's a single storey, there's not much value to keep the existing house and do a reconstruction since there's nothing much you can reuse and you are still subjected to the constraints of the existing structure. it is faster to demolish an entire house than to pick and choose what needs to be demolished. also with the house gone, it would be easier to do the foundation and soil prep including termite treatment. 1.5M for a 2.5 storey detached house sounds reasonable assuming is all in already.
  15. FYI, PE is Professional Engineer. which part of the grille you want to change? top or bottom of both? the top part seems to be just screwed onto the beam and walls so changing that should not be a problem. the bottom part is cast inside the concrete kerb so you can't change that. if your neighbours have the same bottom grille, it means it was installed by HDB during the construction and this is meant to be a safety barrier and not to be removed. if you want to remove this grille, you need to get a PE to redesign a new safety barrier and/or change your bottom windows to laminated safety glass which is compliant and can act as a barrier.
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