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snoozee last won the day on January 13

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  1. you need to check whether your compressor can be used for a system 4 aircon or not. normally aircon compressor would be sized according to the amount of BTUs for each wall unit to be connected to. so if you have a system 3 aircon, you would most likely have a compressor which has enough BTU system 3. sometimes system 4 compressor is used in a system 3 configuration for cases where there needs to be more BTU being supplied for a certain room which has a bigger wall unit. but if you have this configuration, chances of adding another wall unit is slim as the total BTU may exceed the compressor's capacity. best case is for you to install a separate system 1 unit for your living room instead. disclaimer: above is based on my own research and understanding. best is to consult an aircon professional to ask and confirm.
  2. for small devices, a travel adaptor will work. but bigger equipment/appliance, need a transformer which can match the power requirements. some devices/equipment have adaptors which accept 110v to 220v so check before buying.
  3. Again I emphasize (as always), GET THE PE TO CHECK The PE would have the knowledge of whether can or cannot as well as the latest codes and requirements from authorities from my searches, I can’t find anything on restrictions on reinforcements of structure. Of cos there are hidden rules and regulations which are not privy to people outside the industry also for PE, there are PE who are kiasu and kiasi. So a kiasu/kiasi PE may also request for piling for a house which may only need footings or even just raft foundation. This could result in a cost difference of 100k or more. ultimately if the PE decides that the additions can be done according to what he deems fine, who are we (layman) to judge his call?
  4. You don’t get ID to do major works for a landed house. You need to look for a builder or architect to work on the plans and design
  5. You need to get a PE to check on existing structure to see can add balcony and/or another attic storey or not. Else have to reinforce the existing structure to add the new attic cost of adding a new attic could be about 300k if need to reinforce structure since you need to build a new ceiling/floor for the 2nd storey and attic digital lock and auto gate depends on whether you want your main con to supply or not. If auto gate supplied separately, main con can choose to impose a profit in attendance on you.
  6. to reiterate angstygal's question on the shower screen, based on the 3D drawing, you only have about 700mm of floor space between the wall and the shower screen. a shower mixer has a size ranging from about 100mm to about 200mm in depth. assuming you get a shower mixer which about 150mm in depth, then you would be left with only 550mm of space between your body and shower screen. would that be enough for you to move around when showering?
  7. since the normal mode of transport is via public transport, then the house nearer to main road and MRT would make more sense for you. a 20 year old house is old but still not that bad as a 30 year old or more house. depending on the land size, 2500sqf for a 2 storey house is normal. assuming a land size of 6m wide and 30m deep, the actual land size would be about 180sqm or 1926 sqf. after deducting 9.5m (7.5m front and 2m rear) setback for front car porch and rear, you get a buildable foot print of about 6m by 20.5m which is about 123sqm or 1316sqf. so 1316sqf for 1 level, you can get about 2600sqf for a 2 storey house (without attic). so your 2500sqf of built up area is quite normal if there isn't an attic built up. 400k budget seems doable. you may wish to talk to a builder and see how much it would cost to do what you want and also maybe change the electrical wire, water pipes and roof at the same time as well. for window resizing, do check if there are columns in the way or not. cos if there are, you would still be restricted by the columns which you can't shift. but for an inter terrace house, it is unlikely there would be columns on the front and rear walls where the windows would be so your only constraint is the location of the internal walls for the rooms.
  8. landed houses in 2 storey zone has a max height limit of 12m while houses in 3 storey zone has a max height limit of 15.5m. URA don't control the individual storey height for envelope control but BCA still requires a minimum of floor to ceiling height clearance of 2.4m. so a 2 storey house can be built with 2 storey with an attic and mezzanine within the 12m envelope as long as all storeys can clear the 2.4m floor to ceiling requirement previously the maximum height allowed for attics is set as 5m as the previous regulations before envelope control allows for 2 storey houses to be built up to 14.1m and 3 storey houses up to 17.7m. the 5m max height for attic is to prevent owners from "over building" the attic as some owners may choose to do a reconstruction to add on an attic to the existing house.
  9. 1. what is the normal mode of transport for you and your family? by public transport or by private vehicle? if by private vehicle, then I would say proximity to MRT or main road should not be a priority concern. 2. timeline. assuming you do not want to incur ABSD or want to claim ABSD back, you will need to dispose of your existing property within 6 months. unless your new landed property is in another family member's name who would not incur ABSD then this is not an issue. if you can't "siam" ABSD, then you will have to make sure you sell your condo and complete the landed purchase within 6 months. if the new house just needs a slight makeover, it can take maybe 2 months or so. but if you need to do major works, it could take 6 months or 1 year to complete not including submissions which can take 2 to 3 months for approval. do you have a place to stay in the meantime? attic is an additional floor area and it does need a roof as well. unless you want an open roof terrace then no need roof. the older house may be cheaper upfront but you may end up paying more to redo the house and the additional cost may exceed the price difference between the 2 houses. so you should ask yourself on whether you have the time to wait for a major renovation to complete or you need to move ASAP? do you prefer to make do with existing furniture, etc or you want to have new things for your "new" house.
  10. you indicated a max 5m height for attic and your spring line started from the corner based on 5m height which isn't what URA is depicting. the 5m max height is before envelope control and with all new developments falling under envelope control, the 5m max height is no longer applicable. if you look more clearly into details of the URA residential guidebook on envelope control and click on the section on attics rather than just looking at the main 3D diagram, you will see how the envelope is being defined from the section view and how the spring line is based from 3.5m from the permissible building height and not based on 5m. with the spring line based on 3.5m instead of 5m, you can actually get more floor space since the setback of the roof from the building front and back is now 3.5m instead of 5m which essentially gives additional 3m of useable internal floor space assuming the roof is at the max allowed height.
  11. you may wish to check your URA guidelines again on where the spring line starts for attics under the envelope control guidelines.
  12. firstly, I must clarify that I do not know how your architect had designed the roof profile. assuming that the area within the 45 degrees pitch lines are currently not utilised as indoor areas and you have a 3.5m height for the attic, you could possibly get another 6sqm (64sqf) each for front and back (assuming your plot is 6m wide, and 1m extension). again I must emphasize that I am assuming a lot of things here as I do not know your land dimensions and roof profile which is being designed. edit: referring to the below diagram, area in green is the extension which can be gained by doing the step roof. based on my understanding of URA and BCA requirements, the 1m drop is the max allowed so as to still obtain a min 2.4m floor to ceiling clearance required by BCA while still maintain the build structures (wall/column) within the buildable envelope demarcated by the springing lines.
  13. Can only be within the 45 degree envelope defined by URA. but no need to die die have the roof pitch touch the corner of the lower storey. Can do something like this ________ ___| |___ | | you can then do a canopy about 1M or 1.5m from the top to shade the balconies front and back
  14. both. too thin will not provide enough strength to the screed. too thick may also crack due to the uneven drying of the screed. you can search online for data sheets from screed manufacturers and they normally recommend thickness of 10mm to 40/50mm. if need more then usual case is pour concrete to top up then apply screed. of cos if you insist on doing it and am willing to bear any consequences of it and indemnify your contractor I don't think he will not do it if he is paid. it's just that if anything happens, he may tell you, "I told you so"
  15. screed manufactures will have recommended thickness for application of the screed. if too thick it will crack.