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snoozee

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snoozee last won the day on June 6

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  1. besides the P trap, you also need to think about your aircon pipes as well. How you are planning to route the gas pipes from each room to the aircon ledge where the compressors are and how to hide the pipes that goes underneath the beams. So this will also play a part in your ceiling height and box up. proper planning of aircon height placement will also let you avoid the ugly "wearing of hat" where a part of the false ceiling is recessed upwards to cater for the aircon indoor unit. the big players like shindler, kone are geared towards commercial sector so there won't be an issue with overhead. even hitachi/mistubishi isn't interested in dealing with home lifts when i enquired with them when sourcing for my home lift. there are many companies focusing more with home lifts in the market so you can search for these instead. pricing is very competitive among these smaller players. if you want to have glass lift shaft then you must be prepared to pay for it since the lift shaft would need to be built separately using steel columns and beams.
  2. it all depends on the contract with your builder. progress claims will usually be submitted by the builder on a monthly basis for payment certification by the architect and then payment disbursed by yourself or the bank (through their lawyers) if you are taking construction loan
  3. if you are adding a lift to your house, do note that if your attic is only 3m high, your lift options are limited as traction lifts usually need more than 3m overhead. the average overhead requirements is about 3.3m so check and confirm your lift supplier fast so that their structural requirements can be designed into the building plans for submission. remember that BCA requires a minimum ceiling height of 2.4m for all rooms. if you are not planning for flat beams, then one way is to design the beams such that the coincide with the rooms parting walls and the beams are at the edge of the rooms. then your false ceiling need not drop so much to hide the beams. toilets not only have the sanitary waste pipes but also the vent pipes. so you need to consider where the main vent pipe goes out from your roof and how to hide this pipe. PUB also requires the vent pipe to be of a minimum certain distance from any windows/openings so if your vent pipe is near to a window/opening, then you will need to put in a very tall pipe to fulfill this requirement.
  4. are you doing 6m (1st and mezzanine), 3m (2nd storey) and 3m (attic) or 5.5m + 3m + 3.5m? normally for beams, they are designed such that the height is much more than the width. so if your beam has a width of about 150mm, the height could be 500mm. so if your floor to floor is 3000mm, you will be left with effective 2500mm floor to beam height. normally for construction, there will be a 50mm offset such that when the floor finish is done, the floor level will be as per architectural drawings. so this means that you are actually left with 2450mm height from floor to underside of beam after the floor finish is completed. other areas where the floor slab (assuming 200mm thick) will be 2750mm. if you are planning to have false ceiling, then the coverage can only be until the bottom of the beam for a flushed look unless you don't mind exposing the beams here and there. one way to overcome this height issue is to have the PE design flat beams or design the entire floor slab as a "beam". by flat beams, it will mean instead of a say 150mm by 500mm sized beam, you end up with a wider but shorter beam of about 400mm wide by 350mm height. this will help you gain some height compared to having beams of 500mm or 600mm height. however, with flat beams, you will encounter another issue when trying to hide the sanitary waste pipes. the P trap of the waste pipes has a height of about 300mm+. with normal beams, this bottom of the P trap will still be above the lowest part of the beams in the room. But if you have flat beams, the bottom of the P trap will be lower than the beam. So you will need to cater for box ups or drop your ceiling even lower to hide the sanitary pipes. So have this in mind when you position your toilets in your house. best if the toilets can be stacked one above each other and you will save headache on placement and hiding of the waste pipes later on since you don't really need to have high ceiling for toilets compared to rooms which is preferred to have high ceiling for better ventilation.
  5. Thread width of 250 is quite ok actually. My feet is sized 44 and it feels ok with my stairs of 250 thread width. But since your stairs is wrapping around the lift shaft, ok to use 275 to just make use of the space which would be wasted anyway. Good that you are giving 1200 stairs width as moving mattress up the stairs will be a problem around the bends if it’s just 1000 wide. if you can increase the walkway of the pantry to 700 would be slightly better. 800 would be best actually. Maybe can consider not having the vertical flutes there to get the extra 100mm. You can find a table, place it at 600 from a wall and see how tight the space is.
  6. depends. my parents' place floor to ceiling is only about 2.43m. just enough to put in Ikea's tallest wardrobe at 2.4m and I had to assemble the wardrobe vertically (in it's final shape) instead of the usual install on floor and tilt up vertically.
  7. breaking up the stairs into multiple flights instead of one long flight will allow the legs to "rest" when walking along the landing before going up the next flight. you as the owner can decide on how you want to break up the stairs as long as your architect can design it such that the minimal overhead clearance of 2m between the steps and the above "ceiling" is met. if I am the architect, I would design the stairs such that the 3 flights will fit nicely around the lift shaft rather than having one step protruding out at the bottom and top then needing to build "columns" to "block" the stairs. so a 5 + 7 + 5 config may fit nicely as well
  8. Nope. normally profit in attendance will apply to nominated subcons. How can contractor charge the owner this when owner is DIYing something in his own house? if you are really concerned about this can always install the CCTV after you take over the house upon TOP. The important thing is to have the wiring all done up first which would be part of the main contractor’s scope assuming you are getting his electrician to pull the wires for you.
  9. 2.6m if you use a fan which is 35cm in height, you will be left with 2.25m from floor to bottom of fan. whether too low or not and efficiency of fan is subjective. more important is the safety issue where the fan blades are not so low that one will be able to touch it when the hands are raised up. do note that ceiling fan works by pulling air from above and pushing it downwards and towards the sides. if there is not enough volume of air above the fan to be used, don't expect it to work very well in pushing air around.
  10. before even buying the CCTV system, you will need to know where you want to monitor first. then you need to know which models of CCTV to buy. even with same model of CCTV, there are cameras with different focal length which will provide different field of vision. eg: a camera with a wider field of vision will make the objects smaller whereas one with a narrower coverage can capture the objects bigger on screen. so the angle of coverage will determine how many cameras you will need and how to position the cameras such that they can overlap a bit and provide you with an almost 180 degrees coverage. you electrician could help you with the installation of the physical cameras but you may need to configure the recorder and cameras yourself. always read the instruction manual on how to set up the equipment. I made the mistake of not reading the manual and had problems paring the cameras with recorder.
  11. you need to install down rods which are mounted to the concrete ceiling and then install your laundry bracket to these rods. cannot install the brackets to the false ceiling as the plasterboard of false ceiling cannot take the weight of the laundry.
  12. check what is the height of floor to ceiling first. if you have just over 2.4m in height, then a ceiling fan will make it lower. even the shortest ceiling fan will be about 30cm+ in height. alternative is to just install wall mounted fans instead.
  13. all flooring will have a gradient, just how much only. if you really not happy with the amount of gradient then tell your ID or contractor and ask them to redo.
  14. floor tiles are never laid perfectly flat. a gradient is needed to allow for water flow.
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