ossify

My Zencelo 20Amp heater switch with LED light costs $20 each. expensive an example here at the top right corner (not my pic)

continued DIY and preview of my zencelo

Day 35 aircon people came for installation of compressors and fcu (noticed that gantan's and my aircon look the same) Total cost for the day's work: $0 Hacking 50ft walls and clearing of debris: $1000 Accumulated cost for labour: $5500 (including clearing of debris) Accumulated cost for raw materials: $2340.21 Total reno bill as of now: $8840.21 Plumbing: $880 Electrical: $2000

Day 34 technically skipped one day as didn't do anything on Sun. Mon was the start of plumbing piping works. Total cost for the day's work: $0 Hacking 50ft walls and clearing of debris: $1000 Accumulated cost for labour: $5500 (including clearing of debris) Accumulated cost for raw materials: $2340.21 Total reno bill as of now: $8840.21 Plumbing: $880 Electrical: $2000

wah, you actually call her ah, i only sms no wonder she never waive off for you basically it's like a skirting, except that it's about 2mm tall. sure to be noticeable.. when it's done up, you'll see

ya occupational hazard indeed! i am also thinking it's a good practice! should have done that... but i still have a 5L can of spare paint so... whatever and yes! it is tough! i have complaints from my below neighbour and my beside neighbour. >< i only spend lunch and after work though.. before work is rather.. crazy for me.

i haven't tried it yet, but from what i heard and saw at the demo, it's the same it costs $125 after discount.

i got my hansgrohe rain air shower at about $125 look out for their sales promotion, usually 25-30% discount off listed price.

aircon + heater insulator switch cost $200+??? who is feeding you this information? i bought switches from Choo Chiang (prices shown before GST) Zencelo: 3gang $13.5, 2gang $9, 1gang $5.5, waterheater $20, doublesocket $12.8, singlesocket $8.5, scv $8.9 Clipsal WHD20 Isolator 20A for aircon $11.5 the main switch box costs under $200 (but electrician is supposed to buy this, not you so don't buy it! if you buy wrong one, you lose out) but usually ID/contractors will charge $300 for it.

nice ID you have hope you didn't buy the PJ rainshower. they're OEM from China and yes, you can bargain at HN they matched my price from mustafa with free delivery and free vacuum cleaner. (mustafa didn't provide delivery nor vacuum cleaner). had to pay in cash/nets though

just had a discussion with my kitchen door guy attached is the bird's eye view schematic of my top hung frameless sliding glass door. grey = walls, yellow = cabinet, red = fixed panel, cyan = sliding panel sliding panel has to overlap fixed panel by 50mm when fully closed. when fully open, the walkway should be 900mm. when fully closed, the closing point will be 80mm off-center. no choice as my kitchen is off center due to concealment of gas pipes

one day can complete

in order to fix it the right way, you need to redo the bottom plank of the cabinet. that will need carpenters to measure again and do. takes time and $. your contractor will probably want a quick fix, silicone is a stupid fix. my suggestion: black rubber. but if you take this suggestion, make sure you get a discount off your kitchen cabinet. (i suggest 10%, since he earns at least 30% ) as for the grouting, why can't they do it... most likely they don't want to do it. if you want to DIY, have to buy grout powder from Hafary, about $15 per pack. but if yours is a small area, i might have some spare. have to check. one pack can cover about 10 square metres, assuming 30x30cm tiles. one more thing... if that 'cement' came off (i presume you mean silicone) please check if water has penetrated your cabinet...

welcome to RT i also hope you can do all the works, you need to pull some strings, especially the glass works and the carpentry. they seem rather tight these days. i find it interesting that you put painting at the last stage

huh? $500 for just one ceiling? I do for you, $300

you know, i always thought i gave enough allowance, but there are some things that we don't think of. like the size of electrical trunking, the diameter of plumbing piping, how best to run them, water pressure, resistance, electrical resistance, etc. Now I have to consider using a carpenter's help to do up my top kitchen cabinets. But I am wondering if they will do only 6 ft May be too small to do. If I let them do the other 8 ft (which I can simply get from Ikea), I wonder how much more costly it will be.

mmm i soaked mine in water for 2 days, nothing happen leh

the heater switch looks slanted

Good to know you got your laundry hooks, actually i think most neighbourhood hardware shops sell at this price. Don't get chop carrot by the expensive ones Lena is not back yet. If you want to contact her, try Thursday morning. Haven't install, wait 1-2 days bah. Yes agent don't have stock, but some retailers have stock. I found one I still need 2 more, when agent have stock, I let you know. Yah DIY paint is no joke! but if you are like me (i fill up the holes between trunking and wall/ceiling before painting), you'll enjoy it floorplanner.com

take a look at my blog for my prices for zencelo i spent about $160 for all switches, including aircon isolator and heater 20A points + terminator.

this one?

i think it's at block 41, i'll confirm by tomorrow edit: it's at block 8 telok blangah crescent

you shouldn't use silicone to cover the hole between the cabinet and the floor. over time, mold will grow on your silicone. ask your contractor to straighten the wall tiles, change the grout colour to white (grout comes in all sorts of colours, at least 24 colours) since your tiles are white, and to straighten the toilet bowl. crooked tiles are not acceptable. don't pay any $ until rectified (i am hoping you haven't paid more than half). go to SCT if you need to. if you want to DIY the grouting, PM me, i can teach you how. the issue is money control. you have little control of money and where it goes when you hire a contractor. based on the usual reno contracts in the market, you pay first at various stages before the actual work being paid for is done. this is very dangerous as the work done may not be up to expectations and you have no way to get back the money paid (unless you sue, which incurs more $). you have no say in the workers/sub-contractors hired to do the job, nor their quality of work. the amount of $ paid to the workers is usually dependent on their quality of work. so to maximize profits, the coordinator may hire the cheapest labour to get the work done, and cheap labour is usually correlated to poor workmanship.

read this post and this post

oh is it haha i didn't know. i only focus on the white ones cos my house is white white.