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w7_lee

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Posts posted by w7_lee

  4. Posted

    What your contractor told you is true, the holes are for water to discharge. But you are right that for corridor unit, it is not required. Is it an option to ask him to get a piece of flat bar, powder coat it to white and stick along the whole stretch to cover up the holes?

  6. Posted

    Call the plumber that quote $750 to go to your place for site survey, ask what pipe material he using (PVC, copper, stainless steel pipe) , any hacking involve and will he make good the places if he need to hack a little, got include painting, etc....

    Then see how much the total quote and compare with the $1150 plumber. Compare apple to apple.

  7. Posted

    Normally the ID will co-ordinate delivery (as a form of value adding service), so when the sink was delivered, she should have checked it (or at least got the contractor to check it) before accepting delivery on your behalf. You should highlight to her. Unless you accept delivery yourself. If you 'suspect' the carpenters are a problem, you should discuss with her since they are engage by her, so she is responsible for their actions. But try not to accuse la.... not so nice & you really really don't want to piss the carpenters off.

  10. Posted

    You only don't like the attitude of the ID or is she not getting the stuff that you want done? My friend had an ID done his renovation a couple of years back. They also had some issues and the contractor that the ID engage damage his new fridge and there was some defect with the reno. He refuse to pay the balance of the renovation cost until the ID replace him a new fridge and rectify the other damages. I think it was not done and he did not pay the balance. A year after he move-in, he receive the lawyer letter from the IDs company. So document (probably by email) the issues with the IDs, you may need it later. Bear in mind that they are company and probably have lawyers working for them, we don't.

  12. Posted

    Unless you are installing very large projector, otherwise, maybe it is not must because anchor bolts are difficult to remove. If you are installing the normal projectors (like those use in offices), just drill holes, install the rubber plugs and use screws to secure the projector. It should work fine. But you should discuss with the shop that sells you the projector.

  15. Posted

    I am not a hood guy and when I was planning to reno my house a few years back, I had also planned to have top hung cabinets and no hood. But my contractor also advise me to install a hood to protect the cabinets. I took the contractor's advise as he was a friend of my father.

    In your case, I can see that it is not really an option to install a hood anymore. I suggest you install the stainless steel sheet. If the S/S color don't compliment with your cabinet (looks like white to me), get the contractor to use aluminium and power coated to the color that match with your cabinets. My suggestion only.

    Good luck.

  16. Posted

    Mine was done on tiled walls. The hammer drill SHOULD NOT crack the tiles if the tiler did their job right. If the tiler only put cement on the edges of the tiles and fix in on, the center of the tile is hollow (i.e. no cement). In this situation, if you apply too much force, the tiles may crack. You can check this by tapping the tile and listening to the sound. But I have drilled on hollow tiles before and they did not crack either. I normally start with drill turning at a slower speed (half depress the trigger on the drill) and applying light force. Hold the drill firmly as the drill will start hammering onto the wall (while rotating) when you apply force. Once you see the drill bit has breach the tile surface by 3 or 4mm, you can squeeze the trigger (drill rotating full speed) and apply a larger force. Once you start to see cement dust, the tiles has a through hole and you can now drilling on the structural wall. You can use more force. No need to be nice to cement. No need to do anything special on the tiles besides marking the hole location.

    If you are drilling a fixture with 2 holes, mark and drill 1 hole first. Then secure the fixture (plug & screw) and then marked the 2nd hole. Remove the fixture, then drill the second marked hole. Unless you are experience, the above will minimize accidentally having the 2 holes totally out of position.

    Good luck.

    • Like 1

  17. Posted

    For drilling on wall, you need to use hammer drill (regardless tile or just normal wall).

    You need to check if those sold at Ikea has hammer feature. Most corded drills nowadays allows you to switch between hammer or normal and I think they don't cost much either. You might be able to get it below $100 at hardware shop. Maybe Giant sells them too (non branded ones).

    The drill bit is different too. Just tell the hardware shop guys that you want the drill bits for wall drilling. I think the normal is size 6 or 8. Get the rubber plugs for the drill size too.

    And again, get stainless steel screws. In the toilet, it is damp and the screws will corrode after a year (if not months).

  18. Posted

    It is easy, I did all my accessories (bathroom & rest of the house) myself.

    But like Dylanchua mentioned, you need to be careful if you have conceal pipes in the wall.

    My one suggestion is to replace all the screws with stainless steel. Those screws that come with the accessories are mostly chrome-plated screws. With time, they will corrode and it will be difficult to remove them in future.

  19. Posted

    I hope I will be healthy and not get sick/incapacitated by some disease like dementia, heat attack, cancer, etc....

    This way, I can work until I drop dead and will not give my child any financial & emotional burden. And she can collect $ from my insurance pay-out.

    And (just) hopefully, she has a chance to retire.

  22. Posted

    I am not too sure how the piping is (base on your description) but I think you can investigate if the leak is coming from the 90degree elbow joint.

    I had this in my bathroom 2 or 3 years back. It was the drain from the sink (of the unit above mine). I spend some time trying to find the leak... had to wait till my upstairs neighbor was using the sink and quickly climb on my ladder and using a torchlight, look for where water is seaping out. Found the leak at the 90 degree joint with the straight pipe.

    I bought a can of pipe glue and apply it on the joint. I did it for over a week, every night when I know that the neighbor had gone to bed and unlikely to be washing hands. In the middle of the night when I woke up to relieve myself, I also climb onto my ladder and apply again. The leak stop but I think it will come back again.

    By the way, did the HDB come over to have a look or did they just give you advice over the phone?

  23. Posted

    Tried to send you a message but it says you cannot receive any. Not sure why, maybe I'm doing it wrong. Anyway, the information is below.

    Hi-Tek Electronics Pte Ltd, #03-24, Sim Lim Tower, 6299 9378

    email: hitek@singnet.com.sg

    Let me know how much it cost. I may want to get my old lamp repair and use it in my office.

  25. Posted

    I recently went to SL Tower to get a table lamp and make enquiry with a shop. The owner recommend me a LED type. I was looking for florescent tube table lamp cos my LED lamp stop working after just 2 years. I mentioned it to the owner and he said that probably the driver is gone. He told me to bring to him and he change the driver. He's on the 3rd level. I got his card at home, let me know if you need it.

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