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Exman

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  1. Hi Tim Call me on my HP82882300 for the deal. Thanks
  2. Maybe you can also try this sanitary hardware shop in Toa payoh Summer Hardware Trading Blk 206 #01-1217 Toa Payoh North Singapore 310206 Tel 62506670 I had brought the Gorhe rain shower set, WC. Sink and basin taps, hot water heater storage and instant type. The prices was ok and the service was wonderful....
  3. I agreed that we should have to some mathematic assessment in order to have a reference point to begin with unless there is no conditional factors.... Done a spread sheet to take up RHB bank loan that 1st year, interest at 1.2%, 2nd year at 1.6% and 3th year at 2.38% and there after 3.48% to verus HDB loan interest of flat 2.5%. We can see the highest amount of savings is during the first year and still high savings on the 2nd year, and on the 3rd year which we can observe a 0.12% savings as is lower than the HDB. At 4th year shall do a re-financing process as the lock in period is for the first 2 years.....
  4. The fact about CPF monies is in my opinion varies to conditions. Looking at 2.6 and 2.5 interest rate already earned 0.1%. Some people prefer to have the unit title deeds on hand earliest possible.... Some like myself opt the bank loan and longer repaymebt period shall seem to be more feasible.... Some have no stable income and their monthly CPF contribution which has to top up using cash shall opt the longer period as the monthly repayment amount is lower though on the other hand interest is generated.... There is no one option fits every body as you yourself would knew the condition an situation you be facing now and after, your regular income, family expenditure and commitments. Excel spread sheets in my opinion is just a mathematics as is not based on conditionals factors......
  5. Forgotten to add that current bank loan interest does seem more attractive if to versus against the HDB loan interest which is stable..... But however if you to opt for HDB loan, though their interest rates are stable that all your CPF ordinary a/c monies has to be swipe off to pay off the total purchase amount... Thereafter, then HDB shall only loan you the balance amount.... Eg. if the BTO 4"room" unit is selling at 300k and your CPF ordinary a/c eg has 200K then technically HDB loan is the unit price of 300k minus off the cpf 200K = 100K or 33% instead of the norm 80% from the banks....about 240K.... For this instance that if you opt bank loan, then probably there is about 160K remain untouch in your CPF........
  6. Hi duhzzz In my opinion, the shorter loan timeline shall be better over the longer period. For this instance, 20 years versus 30 years that 10 years of extra interest incurring.....but as however..... However there are 2 ways and subjectively to view at prospective. 1. Let assume that the 80% principle loan quantum which is a monthly installment payment using the monthly contributed CPF if has to balance off with cash during the loan servicing at 20 years, then maybe longer loan term at 30 years does seem to better as is able to cover full monthly CPF mortgage payment....no cash is involved... 2. If after the 20% down payment to buy your unit and your Ordinary a/c still has X amount of monies, in my opinion is to go for the max loan principle amount of 80% and opt for the long repayment period eg. 30 years. The reason is now the current bank loan interest is at all time low and leaving your monies parked in the CPF a/c shall earned a higher interest.....is a form of investment earning the higher interest monies to built up the reserve and also to pay the lower interest I the bank.... Moreover you can pay off using the untouch monies in the ordinary a/c to lower the principle loan quantum if the bank interest in time to come could be higher than the CPF rates..... Bear in mind that longer repayment period can be revert to shorter as however shorter repayment period cannot be revert to longer.....
  7. Hi Muesli Noted and good for you that your selling unit has a75k COV What the factor to have lower COV for EM and higher for 4A in same location @Pasar RIs. Thought that EM shall commands a higher COV...was a hot talking point recently obtain 150k to 200k to 250k COV in the property news headlines......
  8. Hi summersann I had a similar experience like yours. I arrived at a re-sale unit which to meet the selling agent down stairs before going up to view the unit. The selling agent is seen to have a group of same company collegues with him. I mentioned I'm alone and he started to introduced his other collegues to my agent. I turned down his offer to recommendation. After viewing, the seller agent bring me down stairs to discuss the status of my interest. I accepted the asking COV that he said that he to forward the acceptance to the owner. A few days later, I called him as there was no sound and picture heard from the seller agent. He told me that the owner has sold his unit to another of his prefer buyer.... From this episode, that I can conclude that this seller agent may have not bring my offer to the owner. I suspect that he may have got the owner to sell the unit to the buyer whom has engage his collegue to be the buyer agent.... The mortal of the transaction is selling and buying commission shall goes to his same company.... ThOugh CEA has legalized that a agent cannot act for bOth parties, the loophole is the seller agent and buyer agent can be of the same company...
  9. I came across a contractor whom has mentioned that he has to pay someone to do up the 3D for him.... And is not cheap to pay the 3D....something like $50 to $80 per 3D... I told him why not purchase a software and DIY. He mentioned that he is not IT savvy that he does not know how to draw the 3D by himself....so he has no choice but to get someone to do it and he shall try to transfer the cost to the owner.... Unless the deal is confirmed... There was once I was at expo home show that an ID company insist a 2K deposit.... This to include the preliminary 3D pics and their ID design and site visit. The 2K is non-refundable if the contract is not confirmed...
  10. Hi split84 In order to know if you have a good reasonable charges in the pricing quoted is to suggest a template. In this template shall list down the exact details, 1. Waterproofing cost. 2. How the glass shower cubicle to be position and constructed. The spec. Eg length x width x height x thickness of the glass supplied 3. types of tiles 4. how much is the tiles supplied eg $x per sq ft 5. Stainless steel piping cost 6. Type of door used eg bifold type or PD door or sandblast door. 7 vanity top eg solid surface or granite top and how much per ft run. 8. Basin cabinet carpentry cost per ft run 9. Labour cost to install the WC, basin and stand shower hardware. 10.Hacking cost to remove the old tiles, WC fixtures and cabinets. 11 etc 12. Etc 13. Etc With the template shall forward to at least 3 contractors to quote. This method shall be a apple to apple comparison and straight away you can decide whom is giving you the most reasonable pricing. This template is to minimize debate that he quoted more is because he is giving high price tiles or the design of shower cubicle is different or bigger.... Etc etc Hopes my suggestion helps your suspicions on the quoted pricing...
  11. Hi rick88 Congrats your Tampines EM purchase.... Your EM is a corner unit with recess which you could buy from HDB to increase your floor area.... Though you have paid $80K COV and gotten $70K from your Sengkang unit which I believe EM shall give you a different feel of stay.... Lots of exercises down and up the flight of 15 steps of staircase ...... Easily covers 120 steps daily which burns down your fats unnoticed....
  12. Hi KenLui Welcome to HG. Maybe on the down sight the overhaul is a concern but on the bright side is the drastic increase of pricing for EM....in the end good overhaul plus EM unit = higher vauluation + high COV....
  13. It also depends on the interior conditions of the EM. Some precious owners may have renovated just below or above 5, 10 or 15 years ago or worst case serenrio since day 1 probably 24 years ago for Gen 1 EM. There is no one opinion for all the EM new owners. The 2 main component is the intent length of the stay after buying over as however the biggest component to exercise a major or minor depends on $$$. Certain statements like a penny wise end up a pound foolish....could be right also as things may fall apart if not change earlier.... So you have to decide leh.....to me the horsepower of the car is from your pockets. With $$$$ in your pockets your walking is just as powerful......
  14. Thanks adidaem for the enlighting info. This shall address many owners concern on the wiring as to decide on the condition and cost... Now as stated in the HDB T&C on the wirings that units owners whom wirings are embedded or conceal, on the hindsight shall have a higher price to pay if to change new wiring after 25 years.... Probably before this happen, Sears or emblock program may already in place.....
  15. Hi All Many house owners are concern on the wiring works cost and alsocworrying if the vendors are overcharging or how to know if the price is right. I would like to share my views on the matter. The main items in the house that uses the high electrical amperes are usually 1. The water heater 2. The air conditioning 3. The oven 4. The clothes dryer 5. Electrical hob 6. Any electrical appliances using high current. Do not allow many appliances to tap to a single source. The added up appliances current or in technical term as amperes will heat up the wires and shall result to a electrical meltdown and might cause fire. This can be prevented and is best to have a separate or individual ELCB for each high ampere appliances. If the a/m connections are observed that the wires or wiring in your house can be used for a long time and actually we do not need to change completely new wires..... Contractors or vendors for business interest shall like to inject scarecrow tactics to gain deals and house owners on the other hand, for a level of comfort is to change all new wires shall eliminates fires worries....got new wires therefore should be ok.... Even with new wirings, the user too must not allow many appliances to tap on a single power source. As how to know if the prices quoted are right that is to do a apple to apple comparison. When getting contractors or IDs to quote that to use the same wire circuit and the same number of sockets and lighting hardware template. This is ensures all quotes are base on the same length of cables and same grade of electrical hardwares provided. Why usually quotes are lump sum that it mades you not able to know the individual items costing and therefore cannot deduct if there is any short fall.... Like in salseraritz mentioned he was quoted $7700 and thereafter it was reduce or discounted to $6500....thus are some sale gimmicks to entice the owners..... In my view, the replacement of new cables is not necessary unless there is a major renovation to hack down many walls, re-oriented the rooms or to repositioning/re-organised of power sockets and lighting switches..... Writers in this blog mentioned eg the low pricing may be china made products. Eg older houses have better quality wires and etc concerns. The fact that over the time, wires prices have risen quite a lot even the MIC products.... The pricing differs could actually is the method of laying the circuitry that is series link or loop method...which series uses less wires while loop uses more.... Basically in Singapore there is a SISIR quality body ensuring the electrical products are of safe standards. Some contractors quote very much lower also make us wonder where they obtain the products. What I did in my EM is just all add on. Like what I mentioned earlier to have individual circuit breakers for the high amps appliances. If you opt for add on circuitry instead of complete reworking shall not burn a hole in your budget planning especially $7700 wiring cost is a big figure item.... I tend to dispute that all wires shall have a life or time usage. If is true how come the BTOs now has all the wires embedded in the walls.....
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