josephsbs

i bought 1 unit of the improved version during a computer show at Suntec 1+ years ago... the unit still in good working condition. spec says 40 mins per charge but i usually charge it after a few days cos my usage is rather light. in fact, i bought another unit at the recent IT show at Expo... guess i must be quite happy with this gadget. dunno about what other salesmen say, those chaps i bought from (at both computer shows) clearly said this cyclone thingy is not a vacuum cleaner so i did't expect it to perform like one; used it as a "broom" replacement. yes, and definitely, this gadget has its flaws; my views are: * suction power is limited... suction is lower than a cheap $50 vacuum cleaner so go for a vacuum cleaner if you want more power * 40 mins of limited battery life... charge cycle actually depends on length and intervals of each use. i use it as a broom, each use is only about 10+ mins so i'm still alright. * it's not exactly cheap... compared to a wired vacuum cleaner * lightweight, portable and tangle free... unlike the vacuum cleaner with a long tail of wire behind just my 0.02 cents worth of feedback

purchases at Hoe Kee came to about $1.8K inclusive of GST. my contractor... http://www.m-image.biz

thanks... guess you already know where i stay liow

we tried bargaining for 25k but seller simply won't budge... eventually close deal at 30k cos really liked the location/view

Update... Living room area... showing the parquet "lazy" cornet next to full-height windows (to be changed). Already dreaming of lazing or taking an afternoon nap on the platform, or enjoy a bit of "sun bath" Dining area... showing the newly laid unpolished parquet flooring

Update... Kitchen area... showing platform where the washing machine, bottom cabinet and fridge are going to be placed. Kitchen area... showing the common bathroom and windows (old design with small top hung section, to be changed) Living room area... became temporary storage for materials Dining area... showing the floor area cut out for parquet flooring, size about 2.2m x 2.4m

PM liow

Update... Tiles for master & common bathrooms

Update... I'm not changing the existing compressed marble flooring, thus the cardboard protection all over the place. Before works started, we inspected the floor carefully together with the contractor for damages and found all in order, except for the missing tile/hole below the false wall. I made clear to contractor that we will not accept patching up of holes if his sub-cons damage the floor and that the whole piece of damaged tile must be replaced. Tricky issue is, tile suppliers don't carry the same tile anymore. Hacking starts...

easy or not is rather subjective cos for someone who's done some wood works before, it may be a reasonably easy job but for one who's never touched a screwdriver before, that may be a tougher challenge. plus, if the new handleset can fit exactly into the existing holes of your door after removing the old handleset... it'll be a piece of cake. else, you'll need some tools to modify/drill existing/new holes, and some putty for some sealing jobs. watch this video... a kid changed the door's handleset if you're currently renovating the house, can ask your contractor to do it for you, FOC or pay workmanship fees... around $30~$50.

YALE Main Door Handleset If you're also looking for this, allow me to share with you where you can get a good bargain... Mustafa is selling this at around $90 and has more designs/colors to choose from Giant (see pic) is selling at $124.90 (exclude installation) Self Fix is selling about $128 (exclude installation) Hardware City selling at $130 (exclude installation) Renovation Carpenters selling at $180 (include installation) "Locksmith" shops at shopping centres selling at $180 (exclude installation) Initially, I was very keen to buy the stainless steel finished "Bali" series... Mustafa selling at around $138. The finishing, the styling, material, etc. all much better than the standard handleset. Unfortunately, the wrought iron gate we chose is with "black bronze" painted finish, thus not really matching... too bad

Other Decorative Lights Old school wall lamps (warm white bulbs) on the walls near dining area and sofa area... hoping to get the cozy warm feeling when other white lights are off I'm getting the one without the motion sensor (that whitish thingy at the bottom) as it looks more nostalgic. Old school light at ceiling of main entrance, above shoe rack area... still undecided about whether to use warm or cool white light for this... taking the dark bronze model of course, matching with the wall lamp. This is supposed to be a wall lamp but the shop says can also be mounted on the ceiling since there're 2 screws holding the case to the mounted chassis.

Purchases... from Lightings.com This one for my dining area... nostalgic Should be purchasing these as well, when the time comes... This one is for my master bathroom's vanity top set, above the mirror and using warm light to make it real cosy These simple "hamburgers" are for ceilings of bathrooms. Was told the white cover is made of some kind of acrylic that's not so easy to break and won't turn yellowish over time. Arhhhh... this one to create the mood for master bedroom. Guess what color is best for hanky panky?

Purchases ... from Jerome see this Renotalk post: http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=43792&view=findpost&p=760889 * RH-992CT http://www.rinnai.sg/product_details.php?product_id=75'>http://www.rinnai.sg/product_details.php?product_id=75 * Rinnai RB-29FVSV(B) http://www.rinnai.sg/product_details.php?product_id=7 * 707 Compact Instant Water Heater

Purchases... @ Hoe Kee Hardware Pte Ltd I decided to buy the following items from a neighbourhood hardware store due to design and cost: * 2x bidets * 2x bidet taps * tap for washing machine

CHANGING WINDOWS... BIG CHALLENGE Other than the selection of renovation contractor (or ID), the next big challenge of my renovation project could be window works. While some buyers of resale flats are lucky, our unit's previous owner didn't take care of the windows and we decided to have them ALL changed. We thought it's a simple job but it turns out to be that one job that held up the project's completion My renovation works started in mid-October and we're still stuck waiting for necessary approvals to change the living room's windows (as at today) Why? Because many parties in the loop are not sufficiently conversant with the rules governing the change of windows; from the approved window contractor's salesman, to my contractor, even the officer at HDB Branch office. What's the fuss? My unit's comes with full (actually more like 3/4) height windows at the living room, casement windows at master bedroom, sliding windows at bedroom 2 & 3, casement & sliding windows at kitchen and louvre windows at the bathrooms... quite a mess. Instead of changing everything to exactly the same thing, we decided to change ALL to casement windows; top hung replacements for bathrooms louvre and kitchen sliding windows. In addition, we got rid of the small top hung section that're at top of the original windows. Why we want only plain casement windows without the small top hung sections? * Our unit is top floor so may be warm during the day at times. Sliding windows can't maximise ventilation like casement types. * I we keep the small top hung sections and open them for ventilation, then we need to close them whenever we on our aircon. If we keep them closed, then no point having them in the first place. * The extra top hung sections will also collect dust/dirt and needs extra efforts to maintenance or clean them. * Looks better and more like private homes. As usual, our window contractor (a HDB registered window contractor) applied online to HDB to get the required approval for renovation works. http://www.hdb.gov.sg/bn25/isos118p.nsf/Window+Ins+List+by+Company?OpenView&Count=15&Start=1&RestrictToCategory=W&&CurVal%3DReno%2520Company%2520Name%2F&Redirect=1 Then came the "case pending" reply from HDB, why pending? According to the HDB officer, 2 issues needs to be resolved: (1) Changing the full (3/4) heigh window require the new window's design/dimensions to be approved by Building & Construction Authority BCA, and those design/dimensions must be endorsed by a Qualified Person QP (e.g. Professional Engineer PE) before BCA would consider approving it. --> this one we are OK, cos the contractors are aware and have promptly advised me. (2) New windows need to follow the original HDB windows' colour scheme, proportion and type (i.e. casement to casement, sliding to sliding). According to the HDB officer, this is the newly implemented rule. --> this one got me confused. Confused becos my contractor tell me confirm can, now HDB officer say cannot. Furthermore, some of the units around my block have changed their windows (including the full height ones) to non-standard types. Not convinced, I did my own homework and searched around the Internet for answers and found this... My interpretations of these rules are... For resale flats that are completed and handed over to their respective first owners (not resale buyers) before 1 Jul 2007, owners: {a} must follow the original colour scheme and proportion (cannot alter overall dimension); {b} are advised but not mandatory to follow the "casement to casement, sliding to sliding" rule; {c} must get PE to endorse the design and dimensions of the new full (or 3/4) height window and BCA's approval of the design is required. For resale flats that are completed and handed over to their respective first owners after 1 Jul 2007, owners have to comply with all requirements, no more options. Note: PE charges for the drawings and endorsements are around $1,800 to $2,500... kind of a rip-off but no choice. Having to paying the hefty sum to get PE's endorsement/BCA's approval is one, getting it in time within the renovation period is another problem. According to the PE we engaged, it usually takes 4 to 6 weeks for BCA to approve their applications. RECOMMENDATION If you are planning or intends to change change your full (or 3/4) height windows, make sure you factor in the extra costs and time required to get the respective approvals. Better still, start finding the PE and do the approvals part before renovation starts. cheers

ELECTRICAL & PLUMBING WORKS Since the house is only about 12 years old, we've decided not to rewire the house, except for the kitchen where it'll be stripped "naked". Lucky for us, the existing house comes with concealed electrical points whose location are somewhat conveniently placed, so I need only to change the lights, switches and sockets/points. During the few weeks or homework, I came across this website called RenoHub and it has a page showing the various brands of switches available. http://www.renohub.com.sg/SwitchPlugs.php When I check with my contractor about the brand of switches/sockets I'm getting, he said I can choose whichever as long as they are approved ones, just top up the difference if I want "ATAS" brands. I considered MK, Clipsal and Legrand which are established and have affordable models. After asking around and going around to view those switches at nearby shops, I decided on Legrand and was told if I take Legrand Belanko (normal white series), no top up is required but need to top up for Arteor, BTicino or Mallia series. The renovation involves "stripping" the kitchen and both bathrooms, i.e. both electrical and water works will be relaid, other than the tiles. For water pipes, my contractor gave me the option of choosing stainless steel or copper pipes at same price. Frankly, I had a little dilemma choosing cos: * stainless steel pipe looks nicer but needs more angle joints and heard that over time, the water may have a "rusty" taste; * copper pipes are easier to shape and won't rust (safer and no rusty taste) but they look ugly if bare; need to paint over the pipes to make them more presentable. From forums, we read that copper is cheaper but some also claimed that prices of copper has risen over the years and both are about the same price now... dunno how true Anyway, we chose copper and contractor agreed to have it painted to cream colour at no extra cost. added: plumbing done liow... alamak! regret liow! should have taken the stainless steel pipes... sigh now hoping that the pipings look good after painting

Have just ordered the following from Jerome... * Rinnai RB-29FVSV(B) + RH-992CT (special promotion PWP Happy Call pan for $18) * 707 Compact Instant Water Heater Added 21/12/2012: Forgot to mentioned that if you've asked for a quote from him, you'ld know his prices are very competitive, apart from the fact that he's a friendly chap with good service. Will definitely recommend him to my friends if they're buying home appliances. Added 22/12/2012: Received the goods this afternoon. have to say I'm impressed by their customer service. Was initially told that delivery shall be from 3pm to 6pm but I requested that they try to make it around 3pm cos I've made arrangements to go lights shopping at Chan Huat from 5+pm. Heh heh... The guys came at 3pm sharp ^_^ Still got a long wish list waiting to burn the pocket: + fridge + washing machine + rice cooker + convection or microwave oven + cordless steam iron + floor standing fan + air purifier + water boiler + TV + blu ray home theatre system + etc etc

(a) consumer-vendor negotiate for resolution if still can't resolve... (b) C.A.S.E. if still no good... © Small Claims tribunal ~ Consumer Protection (Fair Trade) Act http://www.mti.gov.sg/legislation/Pages/Consumer%20Protection%20(Fair%20Trading)%20Act.aspx ~ don't think can use Lemon Law in this case

many thanks... decided to drop the idea

IMO, depends on individual needs and preferences... E.g. my personal preference is to live in the east, but gave way to my "needs" to stay in JW, so bought a resale at JW near Boon Lay MRT. Needs? My in-laws are staying in JW and I'll be depending on them to help take care of my "akan datang" babies... want to save $$, what to do

did you report to the police about the break ins? if your car is parked not too far with no major blockages (better still with "line of sight"), can consider those 2-way car alarm systems with silent/remote alert. when the car is tampered with, instead of having the alarm go off and K.P.K.B. (which those thieves know how to disarm easily), the system sends a signal to your remote unit and activate the beeper/vibration. hopefully, the thieves will take their time to "shop" for what they want, thinking that no alarm was activated. there might be enough time for you to run down to the car with your whatever accessories desired, e.g. parang, steel pipe, stun gun, baseball bat, whatever you deem necessary some pp install video recorder with "park mode" (recording continues even when car is parked) but that's only useful when it is hidden behind something inconspicuous. if recorder is visible, the thieves only need to take it along when they leave. with the recording, you could make a police report to apprehend the culprits. still may not get your stuffs back, but at least you make them pay for their actions.

If you call Caesarstone as a home owner, prices starts from $180 pfr (comes with standard 50mm back-splash) for the 20mm thickness I chosed (also have 13mm & 30mm); different pricing for different models/designs. To have edge profile, need to add $20 pfr for the additional workmanship. so total could add up to $200 pfr. Edge options: http://www.caesarstoneus.com/products/edge-options/ Commonly used edges... Where to view? http://www.caesarstone.sg/en/Pages/Where-to-view-and-buy.aspx Funny thing is, Caesarstone doesn't really have a proper showroom to showcase their products to retail customers like us. If you call their sales office, they will usually refer you to their partner's showroom at Ubi Biz-Hub... BLUM. I have to say I was rather tempted after seeing the Blum products, but stood firm on not spending extra for non-necessities. Note: Your contractor will be able to get much much lower prices, so remember to bargain.

PARQUET/CARPENTRY & STONEWORKS After the flooring & walls are decided, next is to sort out the woodworks and carpentry stuffs. Instead of cluttering the kitchen with various cabinets/furnitures, we've decided to go plain. We'll just have a long bottom cabinet with washing machine on its left, a "buy from Ikea" cabinet and refrigerator on the its right. What's on the wall is only a chimney hood, some wall-mounted shelves and a wall mounted fan for ventilation, at least for the time being. As usual, bottom cabinet is of laminate finish with ABS trimming, soft closing hinges, etc. As for the top, we've decided to go for Caesarstone quartz that supposedly comes with 10 years agent warranty. My contractor initially tried to push for granite but I stood firm on getting a quartz top So what's so special about quartz countertops? Pic of initial kitchen layout... later amended to do without the Ikea cabinet, bottom cabinet extend all the way to the refrigerator. Caesarstone chosed... 6600 Nougat We have initially toyed with the idea of converting Room 2 or Dining area (false walls & sliding doors required) into a walk-in wardrobe but later dropped the idea, choosing instead to use Room 2 as a Study room with a long Wardrobe running along one side of the wall; approx 11 feet long with a total of 8 doors (4 for me and 4 or me wifey). Room 2 & 3 are supposedly for our children when they grow up but until then, we get to use them. Room 3 still reserved for my kids. This arrangement also allows us to save some monies Except that it is unusually long, there's actually nothing much to share about the laminate finish wardrobe which comes at $260 pfr (market price for a basic unit usually starts from $240 onwards, depending on the design and materials used). The last piece of customised furniture is the vanity top/unit in the master bathroom; we decided not to have any in the common bathroom. Also using Caesarstone quartz, it's a "wall mount" hanging type (about 8" above floor) and using top mounted glass bowl basin. Was considering to use bottom mount basin cos that'll give more storage space in the cabinet. However, decided to stick with glass bowl cos it looks better So where does the parquet fits in? I'm using parquet at 2 places, a "cozy cum laze around corner" platform next to the living room windows and at dining area (due to the missing tiles described in earlier post). While the dining area is more like no choice, I've always wanted a cozy corner where I can just lie down (not on sofa) without feeling the chill from the floor tiles. Reading, watch TV, sun or moon bathing, etc... shiok only lah Will post pics later.

MASONRY WORKS Among the biggest job items in a renovation project is masonry works, or floor & wall tiles to be more specific. Our initial plan was to hack all floors and kitchen/toilet walls and have them changed as follows: living, dining, kitchen and toilet floors ... homogeneous tilesall bedrooms ... parquet or some wooden floorHomogeneous tiles are easy, just have to pop by any of the major tile suppliers' showroom and whoala... lots of choices available, only limited by budget. We went to the showroom of Sim Bee Huat (http://www.sbh.com.sg/) at Toh Guan and spent few hours just looking at tiles; remember to go 2nd floor to take a look at some mock-up designs. Then headache comes when choosing wooden flooring. We checked out solid wood, engineered wood, parquet and even resilient floor (HERF from Evorich) which are supposed to be "pee friendly" but seems some options require us to breaks our piggy bank Not willing to break our piggies, we had to work our sums again and again till the day we finally decided to do otherwise. After we got our keys, our contractor (the one whom we finally selected) did a careful check on the existing flooring and recommended that we keep the existing compressed marble floor. His views were that the floors are still in good condition (a good polish would do the trick to make it swee swee) and no point changing from compressed marble to normal homogeneous tile; even if compressed marble is of cheaper/lower grade marble, it is still better than the usual homogeneous floor tiles. But if we intend to change to better quality tiles, that's another story. For this, I give credit to our contractor for a good piece of advise, helping us save money from not embarking on unnecessary renovations. Not sure about yours, but I won't be surprised that there'll be lots of contractors who would gladly hack up and relay the floor for a quite a few thousand dollars more. Pic showing living room windows and condition of floor... Heeding his advise, we decided to keep the compressed marble flooring and do the following: living & all bedrooms floor ... existing compressed marble tilesdining area floor ... parquetkitchen and toilet floors ... homogeneous tilesWhy then did we change the flooring at dining area? This we kinda had no choice cos after removing the false wall between the dining and living area, that section below that wall is "hollow" (a hole), no tiles. We tried to find similar tiles (previous owner didn't keep any spare tiles) to fill the hole and explored other options such as using pebbles, putting furniture over it, etc. Unfortunately, nothing seems suitable and to our liking. In the end, decided to cut out the area and lay parquet over (approx 2mx2m). Pic showing the hole just below the false wall... Some recommendations to those starting reno soon if doing false walls, remember to ask contractor to also lay tiles below the "wall", i.e. do not leave a hole in case you want to change your design and remove the wall few years down the road. Else, you'll have same problem as I did.if doing kitchen top & bottom cabinets, remember to ask contractor to also lay tiles on the walls behind them, in case you want to change your cabinets to smaller sized ones or removing them altogether without having problem with missing wall tiles. BTW, we decided not to have to cabinets on kitchen walls to have a simple clean look.if doing built in cabinets/wardrobes, remember to ask contractor to also lay skirting even though they can't be seen (behind the cabinets/wardrobes), in case you want to remove the furnitures altogether without replacement in future More to follow...