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Fan Installation Got our fans from Phylux – their showroom is one of the better ones we’ve been to (less claustrophobic) and the prices are reasonable enough, esp with promotion. We chose Relite’s Helix 52” without light for the living room, and Elmark’s Bumbee 48” with tri-color LED for the bedrooms. Elmark's Bumbee (Left - ORB without LED light, Right - OAK with LED light) Their promotion included a free installation for the Relite fan, while the rest were chargeable at $50 each (total damage $150). The electrician was going to charge us $70 each for the installation (total $280 since 4 fans) so we thought we be cheapo and get Phylux to install the fans for us. I clarified with the salesperson about installing the living room fan with the false ceiling in place (the flat came with existing false ceiling in the living room so we are keeping it) – he was the one who told me they can install directly onto the concrete ceiling, extend the stalk longer past the false ceiling, OR add wooden support to the false ceiling and install the fan flushed to the false ceiling. I kept having the impression that adding a piece of wood to the false ceiling is not a very sturdy option (false ceiling material is notoriously flimsy so how does adding a piece of wood inside it help much?) so I opted for the fan to be installed on the concrete. So when the ID modified the false ceiling, they did NOT add a wooden support for the fan according to my wishes. When the fan installers came, they said installing the living room fan to the concrete ceiling is a BAD idea, and even if you extend the stalk past the false ceiling, you must leave a gap around a stalk because the fan will wobble and will crack the false ceiling. WHY NO ONE TOLD ME THAT BEFORE?? They actually packed up and left because they said they can’t install without a wood support, best ask the ID to do it up for them first. I called them back and asked them to install the bedroom fans first, then asked them what they can do about the living room fan. I also called my ID and got him to speak to them, somehow he managed to convince them to install the wooden support for us on the spot, just need to top-up $100. Since we don’t want the issue to ding-dong back and forth anymore, we just pay la! I watched them create the wood support and finally understand what they mean by “adding a piece of wood to the inside of the false ceiling” – they actually open up a hole in the false ceiling, fashion a caterpillar-like wood panel where the legs are steel brackets bent like insect legs, drill and fix the steel legs to both the concrete ceiling and also the false ceiling “skeleton” such that the wood panel is flushed with the false ceiling, and then install the fan on the wood panel (which is of course a lot sturdier than the gypsum board of the false ceiling). Interesting! However, being a HDB flat, having a fan with a false ceiling resulted in the fan being rather low, so if my husband were to stretch his hands out, will sure kena the fan blades (and he is an average 175cm tall). We are ok with it, but if I were to do it over again, would have created a recess at the living area for the fan (so no false ceiling at the sofa area, just L-box at the sides for the lights). Living room fan with false ceiling. The fan installer has placed back the gypsum board around the base of the fan which can be easily patched up. Sorry I lor-sor with my story. That’s not the end though. So I thought all good right? Installed fans and then let electrician come in and connect for us. Well, the electricians complained about how the bedroom fans were installed because the brackets supporting the fan was blocking the access of the wires in black PVC pipes! I definitely told the fan installers there will be pipes leading to the fans but obviously not their problem so they just suka-suka installed it anyhow as long as position correct. The electrician boss told us that they had to reinstall the fans, but he did not charge us for it. On hindsight, probably better to just let the electricians install the fans for us. Another issue the electricians made noise about... They managed to fix it though! Master bedroom fan had to do a L-shaped pipe to connect due to presence of wardrobe. Feedback regarding the fans: The Relite fan is very powerful and quiet, and looks pretty modern and minimalist which is what we like, so we are very happy with it. But like I said, it's a little low due to the false ceiling present, so we need to be careful not to stick things up too high! We can't comment on its light as we got one without the light kit. The Elmark fans are good enough for the bedrooms. The light is dimmable and tri-colored, and it's sufficiently bright for bedroom. However, for reading, think it's best to get another light source. Also, the fans seem quiet enough, but not as quiet as Relite.

Thanks for the info @snoozee! My in-laws house is like yours, have different power phases for different levels. Shall try the WiFi extender! Yes, when we smelled the smoke we quickly disconnected everything. The toaster is fine, transformer is not. But we got another toaster from Courts to save the hassle. So we now have a small white elephant sitting at home - 110V toaster which looks nice but cannot be used. Any takers? Shall giveaway especially if someone already has a big transformer at home?

Good to know! For landed probably they are more willing to conceal the wire for you. HDB different story. Just curious, since you laid fibre network into your house, are you able to get good WiFi connection on the top floors? I ask because my in-laws' house (where I was previously staying at) could not get fibre because the StarHub rep says the fibre termination point can only end on the first floor and the 3rd floor won't have any WiFi at all.

The adapter for the Smart Herb Garden has an inbuilt transformer, the label states voltage range is 110-240V so voltage not an issue. Just need to use a converter. Speaking of voltage issues, just to share, I bought a toaster from Amazon because it looks really interesting! But unlike the Smart Herb Garden, the toaster only works on 110V so I had to get a transformer. When I went Sim Lim Sq to get one, the salesgirl I spoke to asked for the wattage. When I told her the toaster is 1100W, she said the type of transformer I had to get was this ridiculously massive one that can support up to 1500W! And it costs S$189 while the toaster was a measly USD 40. So I just bought a small travel-type transformer (S$23 supposedly 80W) and used it. The toaster was working but smoke came out of the transformer! Siao! Moral of story: Don't buy toaster from USA!

Hood Installation Hassle This was one of the very last things the ID had to do for us, and that is to install our Electrolux chimney hood over our gas hob in our service yard. Due to the large beam present, our ID said the carpenter is the best person to do the job as he can cut the chimney hood to fit the beam. The part of the hood which has been cut away. That included ALL the vents. Alas, the Electrolux hood’s ventilation vents were removed, and when the carpenter installed it, as soon as I turned on the hood, the metal plates on top just flapped open!! Wahlao eh! Watch the video to see the problem. That's the carpenter's hand. Mine looks more slender, in case you were wondering. The carpenter try to shift the blame by saying he is actually not qualified to install it, and he had informed our ID that the vents would be cut off. His wife (who comes along to help) said the hood needs to have a pipe installed to allow the air to be channelled out of the house. Luckily I’m not so blur and I said this kind of chimney does not need a pipe, and seeing how the hood has been cut, surely we cannot return or exchange the hood!! I had to think on the spot (because my ID already more or less wash hands already), came up with an idea to have the carpenter construct a box-up for the hood and to add vents. The carpenter was very happy to hear of a solution and he was confident he could fabricate one (finally something within his skill set). For this, ID had to do FOC for us because it’s their fault lor. Chose a black laminate, of course. Vents were spray-painted black. When I asked carpenter if the solid plywood can withstand the hot air, he said no problem. I have my doubts, but if anything, I will look for my ID in future!! Moral of the story: If you got a beam where the hood is supposed to go, then do like these clever people: Make sure your hood model has vents at the right places!

Updated Carpentry Part 3! Go read it here.