Xmen2

ya, good to try out first ... btw, u may want to buy turpentine also, it can be used to wash away the varnish on the brush, if u want to recycle the brush

The steps i provide is the ideal procedures for varnishing which will give u ideal results ... anyway, for my parquet floor, i didn't use spirit, i just swept the floor and use water to mop the floor ... u can get thinner and spirit from homefix or selffix, and those neighbourhood paint shops, can talk to the shop pple, anyway there aren't that many choices for thinner and spirit ... make sure u sand the surface in between varnishing, it is important as it will make sure the varnish can better stick to the furniture surface ... i am no expert in teaching u how to tell whether the furniture is painted or not, suggest u talk to those furniture shop pple to know more

Hi, if the scratches on your wooden furniture are deep and obvious, varnish it will not cover up the scrathes, in fact, the scrathes will be even more obvious after varnishing (if you use gloss varnish) ... maybe you want to consider re-laminate or re-paint the woorden furniture depending on what's the orignal finish ... if u insist on varnishing your wooden furniture, what I can advise you is to buy those wood filler (same color as your wooden furniture) and patch up the scratches first, then sand the patch up area to flaten it ... after that, follow the normal varnishing procedure: 1) clean the surface using spirit 2) lightly sand the surface 3) dilute the varnish using thinner and apply a first coat 4) wait for it to dry 5) lightly sand the surface again 6) apply the second coat of varnish without dilution please do not varnish your wooden furniture using the above method if the orignal finish is lamination or paint ... as for the Timberlac varnish, i used it for my parquet floor, it is one of the cheapest i can find in the market, and so far so good, but the smell is quite unbearable ... in fact, the smell of all varnish is unbearable, suggest u get a 3M chemical mask

i see ... what grade of sand paper will you recommend for metal gates? 40, 80 or higher?

i wouldn't say my master bedroom looks perfect after varnishing, in fact, u can still see the scratches left by the previous owner if u bend down and look carefully, this is because i use gloss finish, it will actually highlight all the defects ... but at least my wife is very happy with my work, she said the floor looks like brand new (if u don't bend down and look carefully ) i didn't go ahead and varnish the other rooms, because my butt and thigh ached for 2 days after i finished the master bedroom so if u want to DIY, i suggest u rent those big sanding machine to sand the floor, it will be much faster that way compare to my miserable handheld sander, and use roller to apply the varnish rather than a 4" brush

my contractor quote me $800 for my 3 bed rooms + 1 study room parquet floor ... i decided to DIY, varnished the master bedroom myself, bought varnish from Nippon Paint shop, and sand paper, brushes and etc. from some other shops ... managed to put down 2 coats of varnish (gloss finish), spent 2 afternoon ... total materials and equipments cost less than $50, but i didn't go ahead and do the rest rooms, instead, i bought Sofix parquet care and used it to mop the floor.

hi, may i know what if i skip step 1 to 7, and only do step 8, what will happen to the gate?

thank you for the suggestion, guess i have to try it next time, as i have already given up ... i patched up the existing one, and drilled another hole nearby

sorry, my reply is meant for kewin, as for ur question, i tot Diavonex has explained quite clearly in 3 steps ... just to add a bit more details 1) to paint ur door, u need 2 types of paints, one is an undercoat paint, the purpose of this paint is to prepare ur door for the enamel paint, e.g. before u apply shower foam, u need to wet ur body, something like that 2) the second paint is enamel paint, which is oil based, before applying this paint, sand the door lightly will make sure the paint can better attach to ur door 3) the above will make sure u do a good paint job to ur door, however if u want to take shortcut and save some time, my suggestion is just buy Nippon Bodelac (which is meant for wood and metal) and paint the door, but the finish may not be that professional and ideal ... if u still not quite sure what to do, i suggest u go to those paint shop or DIY shop like Homefix or Self-fix, and talk to the pple there to learn more details ...

Nippon Timberlac Wood Varnish is not a paint, it is a type of varnish ... u will normally need 2 coating for varnishing, i.e. sand, varnish, sand again, varnish again ... after varnishing, ur door will be thicker, and if u r not skillful, u will make ur door "cry", so need to take note ... if u just want to change the door colour to natural wood colour, u may consider "stain", which will be easier to apply compare to paint and varnish, no need to use brush, some cloth will do the job ...

i was installing a bamboo blind, ceiling mount ... after i drilled a hole in the ceiling and put in a wall anchor, i tried to screw a hook (those screw type) into the ceiling, think i tried too hard, the hook broken off at the neck, and hence left the screw inside the ceiling, only a very tiny piece, where it broke, can be seen i tried to use a plier to pull out the remaining screw, but it kept slipping away as the piece left outside is too small for the plier to get a firm grab can anyone advice me what shall i do to remove the broken screw from the ceiling?

Hi, anybody know where to buy cheap outdoor deck tiles, the material can be wood or wood plastic composite ... so far the quotations i got are quite expensive, $12 - $15 for a 30cmx30cm deck, and $20 for a 40cmx40cm deck ... my outdoor area is approximately 150 sqft, so based on the above, it will cost me around $1800 anybody got any lobang?

correct me if i m wrong, i thought the numbers indicated on the box are meant to be the size of the hole that the drill can produce, i.e. if it is 13mm for masonary, meaning the largest hole can be drilled is 13mm in width (not depth) ... can anyone confirm my understanding? may i know where can i buy this device? can it be used to detect wire inside the wall?

thank you all for the advice ... mine is a simple rectangular piece so should not be a complex job ... so any experienced and reputable roof contractors to intro?

A rebar, or reinforcing bar, is a common steel bar, and is commonly used in reinforced concrete and reinforced masonry structures. It is usually formed from carbon steel, and is given ridges for better mechanical anchoring into the concrete. It can also be described as reinforcement or reinforcing steel. My suggestions: 1) since u bought from ikea, why not give them a call, i think they have their own team that can help u install the curtain rod; or 2) use cement to fill up the hole u have drilled in the ceiling, and try install the rod on top of the window, i.e. wall mount, the rod should be about 3 to 4 inches above the window frame.