d'lotus

Somehow, ID will recommend warm for cove and white for downlight.... contrast. But the main thing is YOUR own preference.... do a motion study, which lights would be switch on more? ... while watching TV? .....while hookey with your partner? ... while reading a book? etc For my case, wifey loves warm light, but my stupid ID insist on her recommendation. Once everything were installed during reno, and switched on.......... I can see wifey's face changed.... seeing the different light at the shop is so different from the actual effect in the living and dining. For a happy family, I know those bulbs need to be changed to all warm, so I removed all the white bulbs (luckily I collected all the bulb boxes once my wife voiced/showed her displeasure) and went back to the shop to change all to warm (it's located just outside my condo along Balestier - walking distance). This is another reason why one should select a light shop close to home.... else, have to travel just to change 1 bulb. In all, I made 6 trips to the shop to change whatever that needs to be change to make my wife happy.

@aaatop.... for the square hole that you cut on the false ceiling to fit the downlight, what is the guide that you use? Is it easy to cut the false ceiling? what do you use to do that?

Get the LARGEST that you can afford. or able to fit in your kitchen..... don't skimp on the capacity.... the power usage is negligible and when you start to put things in..... u will know what I mean... especially if you have kids. BUT, if you go the Singaporean way of life, ie don't want to get married or married don't want kids, then my advise does not apply

You got that right super.... ditch the bathtub!

@ngunadi, do you have any idea how heavy 50kg is? It is 50kg PER shelf... not the whole thing. I don't know if this is a Singaporean thing.... as everyone that saw the GORM rack will SURE to ask the same question.... can withstand heavy stuff or not.... and when I ask...... what's the HEAVIEST item they have that they would store on the rack..... VACUUM CLEANER..... bloody niamah!

Like I mentioned earlier in a thread, easy or hard depends on whether one is a DIYer or has done this before. Eg. To an investor, it is EASY to identify which share(s) to invest in.... to me..... it's a BLANK wall! Coming back to the IKEA rack.... just follow the instructions, and throw in a little common sense Happy 'screwing' Cheap? Not really - the ready made ones from other companies are much cheaper, as they produce in bulk. On the other hand, u get to mix and match what you want... let's see what's my damage.... 8 units - 77x31cm shelf @ $9 = $72 1 unit - 77x31cm bottle rack @ $12 = $12 7 units - 50x31cm shelf @ $7 = $49 3 pairs - 110cm post @ $6 = $18 3 pairs - 59cm extension post @ $5 = $15 3 pairs - end caps @ $1.50 = $4.50 Total damage = $170.50 !! (wow - I didn't know before... just keep adding the parts till I get what I had in the end) (I painted everything white before installation - leftover paint from reno) For neat stacking, I use boxes (wife's shoe boxes take up nearly 1/4 of the storage space) and Ikea's Samla plastic containers (39x28x14cm - $4 each and 28x20x14cm - $2 each) Lid (if required) is $2 and $1 each respectively.

Given the low ceiling in HDBs... I'm sure KDK has adjusted their fans to the local market requirements. Most fans' steel rod also shorter than those in Malaysia

Is there a ruling that states the types of fan one can use for HDB? The 2 models above are definitely suitable... nice styling and strong wind. In Malaysia, they are named Sensa BUT there are many shops in SG really anti-this Made in Malaysia fan... prefer to push locally assembled brands, eg Crestar, Elmark. They keep harping these fans are not 'approved' in SG and difficult to get them serviced if they have problems.

Hi guys... after 6 months in my new condo... a few irritations surfaced The light switch for one of the room is located in a 'not normal' position... instead of beside the door... it's on the left wall 4 feet away - just after the door when it's fully pushed in. The one switch for the common bathroom is located side-by-side with the switch for the water heater (it is lighted 'red') when it is switched on. Ok, here's the issue - we have to grope for these 2 switches in the dark and as a result, the area around the switch is 'darker' with grime from 'unsuccessful' attempts Are there any switches with locater light that I can replace with? Appreciate brand/model.

Normally, it should be wired to the patch panel. Maybe what you meant was they did not provide the patch cables

Yup.... PRY it open

Tapping from the existing point is the lazy way of doing things.... yes, the signal quality will suffer. Nope, any electricians can pull the SCV point..... it's just wires

Thanks bepgof... it's so different from my double storey landed and condo back in KL.... so much bigger than the pigeon holes in SG I have been a DIYer for the last 30 years, so I do many of the reno /etc myself..... including my extended family's houses. I am not a brand person, straight and pure practical... but somehow, my purchases are also affected by the 'shape' of the product (must be pleasant to the eye)... not cheap or exp... but worth the price that I'm paying for them.

Why do you need to avoid IKEA utensils? It is not the material.... it's HOW you use them. Some overheat them..... of course they will turn colour... even those super ex ones will turn colour too if you use them in the wrong manner. WMF good? I have a 9-piece set of WMF... same... will turn yellow.... but a good wash with the RIGHT detergent will rid them. I am not a spokesperson for IKEA but... I have been using their products since they were in the market.... no issue

Get the SCV tapped from the junction box... as the price is the same. Never tap from an existing point as the quality will drop.

Hmmm.... simple solution.... will try this tonight Thanks

One cannot have all the tick-boxes TICKED when buying house... (complain......) My elder son's room is whacked by afternoon sun (not direct, but at an angle)... solution... thick curtain.... and leave the door open so the warm air can escape the room. This will reduce the radiation heat from the walls and by the time of his sleep time @ 9am... it's back to normal. I also solar filmed my entire house... using the highest % solar reflection (not cheap) but clear (as I want the light to come into the house - but not the heat radiation) The kitchen is also affected my evening sun... all the way to sunset. When you cook, the heat and glare is terrible. I installed blinds along the wash area to block off the heat/ray. It is so easy to say... not to buy house facing a certain direction.... don't want this don't want that.... but try to understand, there's always solution to every problem.

For the kitchen, let the user, ie whoever uses the kitchen most (probably the lady of the house) decide what to have here, or there.. .etc. They are the ones who will be doing the cooking, etc... so , they should go thru a motion study of the whole place... what should be on the left, on the right... where should be sink me... free area on the left or right... single/double bowl, etc.... it depends on personal preference. One good reference is IKEA's kitchen layout guide (or many on the internet).... BLUM is another source. You cannot run away from the sequence... take things from the fridege, put on table, chop/etc... wash... cook.... All this depends on the layout of your kitchen... straight, U-shaped, L-shared, island. I have seen so many Singaporean design their kitchen for SHOW ONLY.... branded... for show off and can only cook maggi mee. One must be realistic... reference to those nice magazines is good, but most of the time, not suitable for pigeon holes. I have a friend who is proud of his SGD1,500 tap in his kitchen but rarely use it..... got to clean like ****.... so far ok for them as no kids yet (probably no intention to have - spoil their lifestyle).... always eat out. Everything in their nest has a brand and designer story to tell....

Hi guys, I have 1 aircon each in the living and dining area (SANYO SAP-KM123GJ), which is very close to each other and when you switch on one of them, the other will be on too. Understand you can set the remotes to A and B, but the manual that comes with it has no instruction how to do this - just asking you to contact the authorised dealer. Have requested the building mngt to help but they keep saying their people is busy some other place. I have downloaded another manual for another SANYO air-con and they have instructions to do this.... the first part is quite easy, but break the tab in the remote. The second part requires you to remove the jumper on the circuit board at the inner unit. Anyone know how to access this circuit board, ie what to remove, etc?

I suppose this happens to Singapore IKEA only.... as Singaporeans love to complain and *****. I have been to IKEA all over the world and they are true to their no questions asked return policy. Maybe you are unlucky

Aiyoh... it's EVERYWHERE..... heartland shops

Hi bepgof... will try the saturation method on my kitchen granite top. All these while, I have ample cloth around the kitchen and when there's water on the counter top, wipe the water off immediately.

Thanks bepgof Yes, it's granite... and porous is their trademark.... You see many detergent for terazzo, marble... but none for granite. I am currently using one for marble (with waxing properties) and add 1 cap of dettol. As you mentioned, the sticky feeling might be this wax. Will try with non-wax detergent and see if the stickiness is still there - will report back here What do you mean by reaching saturation? Whateve amount of water used... it will evaporate

Easy for those who know... and difficult for those who does not. Decide if you want the stem to be on the door or wall.... bearing in mind where it is located as it could trip someone. Mark it and screw it in. Place the other piece on the magnet and close the door, mark the location on the other wall/door - then screw it in - VIOLA For wall, I normally use a size 5 screw (not too big, not too small)

Even if you are not a handyman..... just follow the simple step-by-step instructions and you will not go wrong... but sprinkle in a little common sense and VIOLA! (be warned though... I hv come across some of the instructions which are pretty confusing and one needs to figure out how the thing works. I have also written and informed IKEA)