w7_lee

Try blk 101, Towner road. There's a shop that sell rubber products, all sorts. Or go to any industrial park and look for comapnies that build window.

You should be able to get an adapter with NPT on 1 side and local thread on the other. You probably can get it easily at industrial hardware shop, neighbour hood hardware shop might be a challenge. I'd bring the faucet along and the shop should be able to help.

Have heard of overlaying laminate on existing floor tile but first time I heard of overlaying parquet over floor tiles. Is it possible to do so? I agree with yoongf that parquet are glue to cement screed. Glue to tiles? Will the glue actually stick with tiles? Maybe what the contractor did was just lay the parquet on the tiles (without glue), like laminate flooring. But is for your to investigate. If you have not paid full, maybe hold the payment. For the soft spots, ask them to open up and look (yourself) if there is any glue at those areas. But this is jsut my opinion.

Agree with Hawthorne. When I was working in construction, we use a hammer and knock the threaded portion (alternating from left/right/up/down) but don't bend it. Objective is to break away or loosen the cement around it. Once it is loose enough, try pulling it out. If still cannot, continue knocking. Finally, they will come out. I can never understand why ppl uses them unless it is for A/C condenser overhung overside our HDB walls.

Challenging question. If you try the industrial park (like Defu or Eunos), some small size furniture factory should be able to cut it for you to the size you need if it is plywood. Pine wood.... not sure if they have it. Not common.

At my parent's place which is 23 years old, when the ceiling fan is switch on while the TV is on, the screen will blink. At my own place which is 13 years old, sometimes when the air-con cuts in, my TV (and sometimes the downlights) blink too. But that because my a/c compressor is due to be replace. I believe it is due to a combination of the wirings being old and the electrical appliances, thus it draws more current. Of course there is a possibility that the electrician has did the cable/wiring works 'way-out' of the standard practice.

Table top glass are normally round or rectangular (maybe some square). The normal glass shop can cut them BUT table top glass are normally temper glass. Tempering is heat treatment to make the glass stronger. From my understanding, once the glass are temper, they cannot be cut easily and are more expensive (naturally). If it's a coffee table top (small piece of glass), maybe you can do with a normal glass from a normal glass shop but for dining table, I think tempered glass is safer.

I assume you are talking about those used for encasing the fiber optic cable, white plastic strip type. They cannot be bend to 90 degree. For the bottom stip that's nail to the wall, just cut them and place them at 90degree. For the top cover, to make it look nice, cut them at 45 degree and when you place them together, you get a nice joint. How nice depends on your skill. To cut them, use a small saw. The professional just use a wire cutter but they are skilled.

Peel the cover from the side, hard. You should not break it cos the plastic cover is thicker. But chances are the inside plastic parts might break when you remove the battery. But no worries, these doorbell are still available in Kelantan Road. Had just replace mine. Less than $20 for the doorbell. DIY on the installation.

I got mine at Block 5A, Woodland Center. But you need to find out what is the 'Force' of your existing hydraulic piston. It will be label on it (unless it's been removed).

Not sure what type you are using but the leak might be due to a poor quality gasket. Mine in the bathroom basin leak after 3 years of usage. I dismantle it, took the gasket to a nearby shop and bought some, replace and it stops the leak.

TIA = Thanks In Advance

If you are at the north, it's available at Woodlands Central. Think the shop is called 'Buy & Fix', located next to the big carpark besides McDonalds.

I'm at my new home for 8 months and permanently resolve the mould problem for 6 months. So just to share with you guys & gals... For the silicon between the sink & wall, remove it. Use white cement instead. The sink would be bolted to the wall, so the silicon & cement is only to fill in the gap, no value adding reason. Any mould growth there is unavoidable since this area will get wet. With cement, you can brush it off with a used toothbrush (or mould remover agent). For the mould growing IN THE silicon between the glass showerscreen and the aluminimum lining on the floor. You will have to remove the moulded silicon. By applying fresh silicon, the mould will grow back in time. I could not find any good suggestions in all forums and found a permanent fix myself. I know the eye-sore, so do try it & share it with around if you feel it works. First thing to do is you need to identify how much space is available between the internal aluminimum lining & the glass showerscreen once the old (moulded) silicon is removed. For reference: the total internal width of my aluminimum lining is 18mm, glass is 10mm thick, so I have an 8mm gap to fill with silicon. Then, make your way down to Towner Road Blk 101. There is a shop there (G****N Pte Ltd) that specialise in rubber products. Purchase from them the Silicon Strips. These are silicon but pre-moulded in the factory. Unfortunate is that standard width is 10mm, depth can be cut to our specs. You need to pre-order and they are not cheap (but worth it). Once you collect the strips, remove the moulded silicon (clear as much as you can the residuel silicon in the alumininum linings) and squeeze in the strips to take it's place. 1 thing to note is that silicon is compressible but nobody know how much to compress. If we to overcompress, the glass may crack during expansion (hot shower) or accidental knocks on the glass. For my 8mm gap, I ordered 10mm wide strips and compress the silicon by 2mm. So far, there's been no issue & I have a 2 Y.O. toddler that bath (and play) there. I don't know if any contractor will do this for you. I D.I.Y myself.