atlantis2267

Batman, you may know the price already in your own Post #18..

Yeah, it is so low - that there is no more discount even if we group buy (I asked).

The power point is there (left of the shelf space) but you could be right about the depth (which is just barely 2ft) - and I need to check the actual depth of oven. I will liase via PM.

I really like this (to be in my study room)! Picture Table

You are right. The light switch is just to close the live wire ; so no neutral and no earth wires inside.

Hi Kitchen Matters, Thanks. I made a mistake; glass hob was my previous; it is stainless steel. This is the space I intend to fit in the built-in oven. Plan is to replace existing 4yr old ariston oven (right) with a new one - and free up the space being hogged. Gallery of current 15-yr old kitchen that can benefit from a rejuvenation (leverage good view and optimise space for a 2+3 family with interest in bread baking and cooking)

Is it possible to tap of a light switch point for an additional power (3-pin) socket?

I need to rewire an existing HDB to have more LAN points - and also use this opportunity to factor in the OpenNet installation. Need a contact for doing this if anyone has good lobangs. Thanks. PS. Currently, I have two SCV points (one in master bedroom, and other in living room). In new set up, I need LAN points in each room (4), and in living/dining area (3). I assume I need to get a patch or switch in storeroom for all termination points (?). If so, then the OpenNet can terminate in the storeroom

I need to retrofit a new oven into an existing kitchen cabinet that does not come with built-in oven/space. I need to change the space below the glass hob (which is currently just shelving space) to house the oven. Does anyone have contacts for cabinet makers (or equivalent) who is willing to do the retrofitting? Thanks in advance. PS. Currently, I am using an Ariston built-in oven installed in a standalone 'box/frame' that was also supplied by Ariston. It sits on the floor now - quite an eye-sore bangwall.gif - but well used.

I need to retrofit a new oven into an existing kitchen cabinet that does not come with built-in oven/space. I need to change the space below the glass hob (which is currently just shelving space) to house the oven. Does anyone have contacts for cabinet makers (or equivalent) who is willing to do the retrofitting? Thanks in advance. PS. Currently, I am using an Ariston built-in oven installed in a standalone 'box/frame' that was also supplied by Ariston. It sits on the floor now - quite an eye-sore bangwall.gif - but well used.

velv, this one?

Perfect sense! - I do that in less windy days! FG100? Or you are referring to the Gateman F100 mentioned in above discussion? I'm curious myself to see if we can negotiate if I were to get 1 unit too for my in-laws (because F100 relatively expensive than my current Samsung SHS-5120).

Out of topic a bit, the winds are strong here in the east; the heavy HDB door has slammed many times - but kudos to Korean engineering - no problem so far. However, I need a door closer. Anyone knows where best to buy and how easy to install (cut cost/DIY). - it does look easy though... Update: anyone else interested? I'm checking out Yale Lite (~$46/HomeFix), Dorma TS 68 ($35/Tiki), and installer.

I don't know about the gate part ( i guess i can't visualise what is a 'gate'). Best check with the seller; I've sent the contact. Out of curiosity, why the gate?

I think Samsung SHS-5120 has remote control option too .... but too many remotes at home already. When to use ?

I was looking at water filtration after a relative recommended it --- but I was unable to really put down the *real benefits for this extra equipment in the context of rather 'clean' water in Pasir Ris/HDB - and that the food we eat out and soft drinks we consumed are not exactly clear or 'clean'. The fact that a filter will turn brown is expected after 3 -6 months (I breathe in enough dust particle in a week to turn it brown too!) - and I think I can live within that dirt tolerance. If it turns brown in a day or a week, I would have jump on this.... I am looking for some reasons to spend money --- err I mean have a healthier lifestyle but looking for some real compelling reasons to act e.g. does it help in preventing receding hairline

boxerfan, Did you manage to get a good installer for the lan cabling? I need to wire up my HDB unit (not renovating, so need to lay it inside existing false ceiling, air-con trunking etc).

It was a very pleasant purchase with no issues with regards to the product and installation (though the metal door frame requires more effort than a wooden one). I paid for the unit plus installation but without extended warranty (think it is still $350 for the lock itself - best to check with the seller on installation as I think it varies based on which day of the week). My rational for without warranty is quite simple: it's actually a well distributed 'appliance' (like a rice cooker if I may use the analogy), it comes with 7 days-warranty, if it does not break in that 7 days, the likelihood that it will is very low after - and I am fine with rip/replace philosophy at that kind of price point. Yes both are active ... RFID, pin code. There is of course the third mode (physical keys, two were supplied). I was reading the book "The World is Flat" - and how the internet has changed the dynamics of suppliers and 'empowered' consumers - so -- there are some like us who use information to get better value deals, and some who prefers to buy through the traditional supply/market - due to a imperfect knowledge market (that requires extra insurance aka warranty because it is priced too high?). There's nothing wrong with either - just different values seeked/derived by different consumers.

I picked up from this excellent site at http://rouxbe.com - that for stainless steel pans, to avoid sticking to the base, you must heat the pan to the right temperature before putting the oil and meat. Just to share also that the online video cooking school Rouxbe site is a paid site but it runs a free cooking module on a daily basis and if you catch it on the right day, there's one on how to test if the pan is hot enough.... using water droplets, quite entertaining and educational. PS. of course, non-stick is always more convenient for cooking eggs especially.

I bought a Samsung SHS-5120 from the same seller but I was very tempted to get the F100. The Samsung unit has RFID card access (so just tap your wallet like in MRT) - and a physical key access - while the Gateman F100 uses fingerprint. Both has pin access. The Samsung unit will be closer to your budget (all else the same -- ie. incl. warranty/installation). Alternatively, if you don't need a door handle/mortise lock, the Gateman F10 may fit your budget. Another forumer uses this and he posted here. Do you need the door handle or replace another mortise lock for you to consider F100 -- that would be the question before deciding between the F100 and F10. If you don't need biometrics/fingerprint - the Samsung is quite pleasing to the eye and the RFID card access can be convenient. Hope that helps. This is how Samsung SHS-5120 looks (src: ebay)

I bought my Samsung SHS-5120 from this same seller. I heard Gateman is a reputable brand - and my brother uses 3 units of (Gateman F10 and F100's) in his Punggol house with no problem so far. I would have gone for Gateman F100 (but I needed a model with a physical key instead).

Yes, I think it is OEM. See this post above. Post #147 above. The bigger picture of the "Yale" lock from the link above has "Gateman" brand at the bottom. Hence, I assume it is the same. Update: I noticed there is a "key overrride" for the Yale, which is not in the F100 (if it refers to a physical key?)

I have watched the locksmith installed my Samsung SHS-5120; I would say it would be a big challenge to do it yourself (DIY), unless you are a real handyman and with the right tools. Note that SHS-5120 is a mortise lock - in layman's term the lock mechanism is inside the door (and it could/should replace the existing conventional lock). It wasn't' a simple unscrew-remove-old-unit, screw-in-new-unit -- well at least not in my case. This is as opposed to a rim lock (like NeMeSiS_T's F10), where the lock mechanism is on top of the door (not inside) - see 2nd last picture of his post above. In my opinion, the rim lock type should be easier to DIY than the mortise lock (like SHS-5120). Still, you still need to have some 'boring' tool to make a proper hole for the front/back panel connection. PS. The above is my "not a handyman" perspective. Your mileage may vary - and I recalled seeing some installation video before (was for Samsung but not sure which model now). Try google.

This rings a bell ..... I watched a MythBuster show some time back - they were showing how to break into a biometric lock using some simple mold of the finger print if I recall correctly. I noticed the Gateman's fingerprint is the 'slide your finger over type' -- not sure how to explain - but those you see on laptops with biometric features (those cannot use mold to break in for sure).

I have not used this model (not heard of it till now) - so this is just my feedback as an alternate digital door lock owner. I use a Samsung-5120 (which also has a physical key but no fingerprint) - and I did look at Gateman's which has fingerprint but no physical key. The Virdi has pin and fingerprint but no RFID card access/ I noticed it is "water-proof" according to the marketing literature - which may be useful for doors exposed to rain showers. I always wondered if the slider cover is a benefit or not. It is one-more moving-part which I am not very comfortable with (the less moving part, less trouble ? notion). It may help with the aesthetics - if the access mechanism is not glamorous). I was swayed with the sleek clean lines looks of Samsung and Gateman .....