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Tubo last won the day on October 7 2017

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About Tubo

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  1. I have use the Nippon Bodelac 9000 white on my main gate door. Looks pretty ok. But for bedroom door and some furniture i want to maintain the nature wood grain and lighter color. Process better to simple not so difficult. Any good recommendation?
  2. Hi all: I decide to give my 3 bedroom door a new look. I decide to do it myself. I am second owner and I don't know what is the existing door surface finishing. Is it varnish or some kind of paint? I want to maintain the nature wood grain and better a light/clear color. below is 2 photo of my bedroom door. Anyone know is that varnish or not? I found the Nippon Timberlac clear color. is it can be use on my door? Do I need to use a sand paper to remove all the existing surface before apply? Then it is a lot of work. Below is the photo of my wood furniture. Can I do the same with Nippon Timberlac Clear? Or what kind of paint or varnish you recommend? Any other better way? I heard there is some kind of wax or oil things. I have google it but still have no idea what it is.
  3. Hi all: I just completed my floor tiles works. My contractor suggest me to do Acid wash. But i checked something and decide not do it. Because it seems that the Acid wash may affect the grout line material between tiles (changing color to white). Even my tiles is light yellow homogeneous and grout material is also very light yellow. i still didn't do Acid wash. Is there any cleaning product can clean the cement marks on tiles? have to without affect the grout line. I searched something like HG things below. I don't know is it really helpful. anything or method?
  4. Sorry. What do you mean? I don't understand. What is "cabinet plate cement cabinet"?
  5. best option is just buy some cement and DIY. Cost few bulks. By the way, was your fridge base made after the whole floor tiles completed?
  6. 1m+ is so high. Most probably i saw is between 0.85m to 0.9m. Thanks for your reply. I will consider.
  7. Thanks for reply. 2 things I want to know: 1. Your initial kitchen cabinet with legs. Is that you brought from Ikea or is that you made by carpentry in the beginning? 2. It seems that you made a concrete base. Removed the legs and sits cabinet on that base. Did you adjust the horizontal level by a spirit level gauge? Is your cabinet mounted on the back wall with anything?
  8. I have a quotation on plumbing, carpentry and painting. All the items is better price than me. And also, your quotation is very clear with details. Can you pm me your contractor contacts? :-)
  9. Obviously, the cabinet is not sitting on the floor. During installation, the plastic leg is attached to the bottom of cabinet. Leg stand on the floor and cabinet is sitting on the leg. For the working principle. attach the leg to the bottom of cabinet with screw. There is a cover clip and attach the cover clip to the leg. The leg is adjustable from 50mm to 100mm. Each leg can be load 30kg. All the legs are taking load and cover is not. Both leg and cover comes with plastic or aluminium. There is also another way: the cover is attaching to the bottom of cabinet.
  10. Hi all: From what I saw, almost every kitchen in Singapore made the cement base(around 50mm) for Kitchen cabinet. Then just left the cabinet on top. I went to Ikea and I noticed Ikea kitchen cabinets were designed with legs & cover plate. The cabinet sits on the legs so below cabinet is empty. And install cover plate around the outer side below. So you won't seen the legs. Obviously, I know the cement base will prevent water to damage the cabinet, and prevent dust so cleaning will be easy. But the design with leg and plate can do the same thing. The cover will prevent dust and it can be sealed also. I am doing renovation for kitchen. Currently I am thinking if it is possible to tile floor all flat without the cabinet base. Then my cabinet will use legs and cover plate. This will allows me to have more options in future. Such as if I want to change cabinet or want to relocated something in my kitchen. There is no need to replace all floor tiles. I went to Guang Zhou and some places have high humidity and have similar bugs like Singapore. I saw all the kitchen never make the cement base. For my thinking, the base seems not necessary. Is there any bad effects if don't make the base? Please share about you opinion.
  11. Ok. I have pm his contacts to you. Since my house is not available to visit, I take floor plan and meet him in his office. He is very patient and explain my question very clear. And also he quote me very fast after 2 days. But his price is extremely high. Maybe it will be lower after visit. But i don't think there will be too much difference. Anyway i think you can discuss with him and at least he will explain your question or give you some idea. You have the decision for the price...
  12. Hey thanks LauChek. Thank you for share your opinion. Hope it is moisture only. I just afraid if it is leakage from upper floor, then it will be quite trouble.
  13. I have visited a HDB. one bathroom ceiling is like this. Initially I was thinking it is definitely water leakage from upper floor. But after I walk around the whole unit and I changed my mind. Probably it is due to moisture. Now I am guessing the water proof at upper floor is fine. The reasons are below. Anyone comes with any idea? Is it a high risk to take this unit? 1. The mark seems are equally array and formed by small dots. The portion next to the bulb is better. The portion above the shower is worse. The worse portion is just located at the corner with pipe. 2. The design/location of this bathroom makes ventilation worse. window is 45 degrees connected to service balcony and air flow is not passing straight. By the way. Is that possible to hack/replace the floor tiles and do water proofing but keep the wall tiles? Because the wall tiles are still in good condition.