Hi,

I would like to buy some switches for my new BTO.

Am I right to get British Standard socket 13A - 250V, instead of 10A / 15A / 20A - 250V?

Whats the difference between unswitched & single pole, double pole.

Thanks.

Edited May 15, 201412 yr by joel9978

Hi,

I would like to buy some switches for my new BTO.

Am I right to get British Standard socket 13A - 250V, instead of 10A / 15A / 20A - 250V?

>> Depends on what you use it for. 13A socket for most household appliances. Heater,cooker and air con mostly use higher current ratings.

Whats the difference between unswitched & single pole, double pole.

>> Unswitched means socket itself does not have a on/off switch. Most households use sockets with switches. Single/Double pole mostly refer to switch itself e.g. light switch (single pole) and heater switch (double pole).

Thanks.

Hi,

I would like to buy some switches for my new BTO.

Am I right to get British Standard socket 13A - 250V, instead of 10A / 15A / 20A - 250V?

>> Depends on what you use it for. 13A socket for most household appliances. Heater,cooker and air con mostly use higher current ratings.

Whats the difference between unswitched & single pole, double pole.

>> Unswitched means socket itself does not have a on/off switch. Most households use sockets with switches. Single/Double pole mostly refer to switch itself e.g. light switch (single pole) and heater switch (double pole).

Thanks.

Hi bro,

Thanks for the details.

Does it means I'm able to get 16a for my normal household as I couldn't find 13a for the model.

Thanks with regards

Hi bro,

Thanks for the details.

Does it means I'm able to get 16a for my normal household as I couldn't find 13a for the model.

Thanks with regards

I presume you are referring to a consumer rectangular socket outlet meant for 3 rectangular pins.

Higher rating than 13A is ok.

There are many brands available including Hager, MK, etc.

Choo Chiang Marketing sells them at very competitive prices.

I presume you are referring to a consumer rectangular socket outlet meant for 3 rectangular pins.

Higher rating than 13A is ok.

There are many brands available including Hager, MK, etc.

Choo Chiang Marketing sells them at very competitive prices.

Hi Bro,

Actually I'm looking at SCHNEIDER > ZENCELO series.

I download from the CCM website and notice only available in 16A.

Intended to use for normal led lighting & 3pin socket for appliances.

Maybe 1 for mircowave oven & 1 for heater.

I presume you are referring to a consumer rectangular socket outlet meant for 3 rectangular pins.

Higher rating than 13A is ok.

There are many brands available including Hager, MK, etc.

Choo Chiang Marketing sells them at very competitive prices.

Hi Bro,

Actually I'm looking at SCHNEIDER > ZENCELO series.

I download from the CCM website and notice only available in 16A.

Intended to use for normal led lighting & 3pin socket for appliances.

Maybe 1 for mircowave oven & 1 for heater.

Nice.

For heater, check to ensure it does not exceed 3.5kW (i.e. 16A X 220V = 3520 Watts)

Sorry to hijack this thread. I have a related question to ask as I am noob in electrical knowledge as well. I have been eyeing on this

http://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5.w4011-3509464861.76.t8vJ4C&id=15656283434&rn=1a9cf7cbaf3d89980e5c863a69dc64cc

However, I am not sure if I am able to use this in Singapore.

Can anyone advise me on this?

Thanks.

I've used this before and I bought it in Singapore.

Thanks for your reply Pelect. Is yours 16A250V as well?

Yes.

This is difference between 12A and 16A.

For 12A, the switch can take up to a load of (12AX220V) = 2.64kW

For 16A, the switch can take up to a load of (16AX220V) = 3.5kW

Now it does not mean that you can simply put a load of 3.5kW on the circuit even if you have 16A switch.

The maximum load you can put is governed by the lowest rated component in the circuit, be it connector, wire, fuse, etc.

The switches in tmall are so so much cheaper than singapore. any idea if it's okay to use them?

That is a difficult question to answer.

If they are genuine, then it's likely to be ok. Likely because at that price, they could still be rejects coming out from production.

If they are fake, anything can happen especially if you have heavy current going through the switches.

So, the short answer is there is risk and you have to take it if you really want the price differential.

If you have an infra red thermometer, you can measure the temperature to 'roughly' assess the risk but you need to do the measurement

at the terminals which in itself is not safe as you need to have current flowing through while measuring.

For me, I only buy a few so I don't bother to go through the hassle.

Generally though, I prefer to buy electrical stuff locally and I try to buy the branded ones like Hager, MK, etc.

A hager switch can be as low as S$2+.

Hi Pelect, actually getting a grey switch is good enough for me, where do you get the Hager switch at $2++?

http://ccm.sg/www/

Hi all, I will be getting a 3gang switch for my oven , microwave & cooker hood.

These appliances wire will connect to my 3gang switch.

May I know how many amp should I buy for the 3gang switch?

Thanks with regards.