yoongf

Most instant water heaters are specified as 8L/min, and rated at 3KW I tried to mess around with these figures, and these are my observations. Instant shower heaters provide u with a cheap looking low flow showerhead, that effectively limits the flow to 8L/min. U can simply change the showerhead to those multifunction nice looking ones designed for use with storage heaters, to achieve a higher flowrate, assuming the incoming water supply has the pressure to support it. BUT.. because the flowrate is much faster than the designed 8L/min, the water spends little time in contact with the heating element, the water does not get heated up sufficiently! The difference in temperature is minimal, but when u turn the mixer smaller, the water temp rises. In conclusion.. there is not much we can do about the flowrate. I prefer to get those bigger boxes type compared to the small size one simply because whenever we are dealing with heat, it's better to put electronic boards as far away from them, and get as much cooling space as possible. BTW, I am a fan of Joven water heaters.

In the bedroom, a walkway to the balcony will require a clear corridor, which limits the imaginative use of the tight bedroom space. If there is no access, then that corridor may be space to put a study table facing outwards/towards the corner? Also, some ppl might like to line their balcony with plants, to create a mini forest. Having many access to the balcony limits the creativity. Just some emo thots, not really a hard recommendation. Oh.. also, windowless toilets will really feel more comfy is there was a wall mounted fan inside.

If u gonna get a side by side fridge, it's very noisy. U might want to consider a glass partition between the kitchen and the living area, so that if u wanna do some fancy cooking, the fumes will not get to the living room, also for the sound reason. Partition can be next to bedroom door, and also integrate with your massive tv console/storage cabinet. bedroom side dun need to access the balcony, unless u got a smoker living there.

Put washer/dryer in the balcony.. to free up space in the kitchen.

And there is a thing called GST on top of the building cost..

See section on Kitchen... http://www.hdb.gov.sg/fi10/fi10324p.nsf/w/HomeRenoGuidelinesBuilding " Installation of exhaust fan is not allowed at the service balcony/yard. "

Most casement windows are using friction stays that prevent wind from moving it. Your description is closer to those wooden casement windows found in conservation or super old HDB flats? The window stay u described can be found at Homely Hardware at Ubi. Not sure after their recent restructuring if still got stock. Made of brass and used primarily for conservation projects these days.

Removal of curb is commonly done. But ceiling support beam will make space larger? Beams are typically structural elements. I not sure where u got the idea that it's non load bearing RC, unless it was originally meant to be a lintel for some sort of door frame opening? Beams cannot remove, but lintels still can.

Any bathroom cleaning product that says soap scum remover. Need to spray and let it soak a few minutes, then scrub off. Cleaning this is never an issue leh. If like din clean for a few years. need to keep repeating. Alternatively.. use a scrapper tool?

Lysight is like the industry branded stuff. If u mention 6 layers.. means contractor is strictly following the manufacturer recommendations. If strict compliance.. this will be way more costly than tile roof. I have used both before.. and personally I think metal roof is better. I went for tile roof as it matches with the surrounding neighbourhood (Katong area). But tile roof has its limitations. During heavy rain with strong wind that blows water upslopes, it leaks! Tile roof is also not suitable if there is insufficient gradient. and somehow.. I find that tile roof is hotter, acts like a hot stone at nite. Metal roof creaks under hot sun! but the termination ensures no leaks. Sound wise. tile quieter. So.. if me going to redo another house.. it will be metal roof again.

If the water leak originated from pressured water mains pipe, it will not be moisture stain, but a flooding situation. My sense is that this moisture stain problem is not a pressured pipe leak or a waterproofing issue. I suspect it is due to a leak from the embedded pipe... from the mixer to the bib tap (where the shower hose is connected)or overhead shower rose. After usage, there is balance water in the pipe and it will slowly leak out thus staining the wall. Whose embedded pipe is leaking, I can't determine. Frankly, I am not aware of how can get neighbour to do anything unless there is concrete evidence of their leak. Imagine u make tons of accusations, and later discover is not their fault.. I cannot imagine the back charges the neighbour will impose on the complainant. The solution is to hack own side of wall and follow the moisture stain to the source of the leak.

There are private sewers and public sewers. Private sewers refers to sewer lines that run within the boundary and serve only that particular development, for example.. only that condo or only that house. This sewer line belongs to the property owner, and there will be a "Last IC" which is where the public sewer line begins. Public Sewers are those sewer lines that serve multiple owners. These belong to PUB and is their responsiblity if choked. Public sewer can run in private property. For example.. for a row of terr houses, usually the sewer line is behind the property and joins from 1 house to another. This type of public sewer requires all the setbacks and protection. To reroute this is challenging, as have to do diversion works while they are still in use!

There is no way a layman would be able to provide enough specs to the contractor to quote. Normally, the architect and engineer will come out with the tender drawings, and the contractors will quote based on that. I mean.. how wld layman know how much tonnes of steel required? How deep to pile? Quote based on archi perspectives can yield very different results.

HS is built to be airtight. Any works that will cause airtightness to fail is not allowed. Why dun just wire through the vent sleeve opening?

Rerouting a sewer line is quite a common activity. Involves quite a lot of work, expecially if the sewer line is deep. Need proper submission and approval, and goes through their own TOP inspection process. Most likely with require before and after CCTV inspection, and a final survey. Requires a 2m buffer, 1 m on each side of the line. The use of a mini excavator is required, and that will require quite a lot of working area. As sewer flows by gravity, gradient is very important, and depends on the last IC before joining the public sewer, whether got enough depth to accomodate the extended length. 10K no way, closer to 60 to 100K depending on the length.

Formal approval is tedious. Minor extensions is allowed by URA/BCA without the need to seek approval. There are certain guidelines to follow, and as long as the extensions comply with these guidelines, dun lose sleep over it. Most landed properties got some form of deviation from approval plans.

Molecule @ Great World City. Mustaffa Those shops selling curtains and carpets,.. cos the carpets can sew to become rugs

Landed prices are unlikely to fall. Construction costs are not going to come down, and with more and more URA/BCA regulations, it can only go up, and buildings get smaller. If you do not take the plunge now, it's a real possibility that due to inflation, that option may not exist in the future. Furthermore, u are talking about a 3.5K Semi D land size.. how many of such sizes are still available? Therefore, bite the bullet and take the leap. PM me if u wanna discuss more. I would not use the same contractor as next door, as differnt owner got different ideas of project time lines. Economies of scale can only be achieved by building at the same pace, and using the same materials. As long as both are different owners, there will be 2 sets of authority fees and compliance matters.

Yes, fully agree. Double glazing dun work unless the framing is also airtight, which is not possible for sliding window. Alternatively.. can build those japanese design wooden sliding partition, that acts like a curtain.

Rust does not affect the performance of the blower. Most likely your MBR fancoil is choked due to high usage. Need to do chemical wash to clear the choke.

http://app2.ipto.gov.sg/IPTOServices/PublicTrustee/DepositofInformationwiththeWillsRegistry/tabid/384/Default.aspx

Instead of a wall, build a cabinet that looks like a book shelf. Can be useful storage space. the door can be made to look like a cabinet door or like a sliding wardrobe door.

http://www.ura.gov.sg/circulars/text/dcdrhb_d0e4.htm Part 3 Para 13B. Honestly, forget about polycarbonate roof. They dun last, and will perpetually leak. Consider aluminum composite panels. Based on wat u have described, it does not sound like u need to submit any plans. Just be a responsible neighbour and keep the area presentable, for example. dun install exhaust fans/ aircon compressors that blow into neighbour windows, or allow yr rainwater run off to splash into neighbour's property.

Very slippery when wet. and that's a bigger issue since ppl normally associate a wooden floor as being rough when wet.

ok.. homo tiles.. some are super hard, need to use the drill bit meant for granite. And when drilling, need to use tons of water to cool the bit. For wall tiles, after marking out the holes, use a hammer and a drill bit to chisel out a chip so that the drill bit got a countersunk hole to bite into. Then turn off hammer mode and drill lightly to make sure the bit dun run off. Drill using low speed, and dip the bit into water to cool it occasionally. It's almost like grinding a hole. Once the drill bit has penetrated beyond the tile.. into the screed or brick layer, then activate the hammer mode.