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3Cube last won the day on January 6

3Cube had the most liked content!

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About 3Cube

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    Electronics, Interior Design / Architecture, Home Furnitures, Soft Furnishing / Home Accessories, Home Appliances, Home Automation

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  1. I agree. But I did state that "Maximum" height is 5M. I fail to mention some estate only have allowable overall height of 12 M, while other have 15 M. So it depends on the location of the estate; which determine the individual storey height. I've personally designed, submitted, received approval from authorities & completed TOP (Hands on doing the design drawing) I just submitted another plans that my architect had checked base on the principle in the concept diagram. In my diagram as presented earlier, there are other elements which I omitted due to time constraint as I was rushing off, which you had shown. Such as the extended area with lower ceiling / roof at front & back. But I did mentioned "Whatever you can build must be confine within the trapezoidal boundary" I'm only trying to explain it with diagram as I think your earlier post explaining in words did not convey the idea to layman. I've no agenda against anyone. Just trying to help by simplifying the idea by presenting a diagram. I will try to allocate more time to clear & correctly help out in future postings.
  2. I can help to prepare plans & estimate. The estimate will includes everything from authority's fee, consultant fees, etc to final completion. Please contact me at threecubebuilders@ymail.com
  3. I stand correct. As this forum seems to hide weblink. Go to URA site, Guideline, Development Control, Semi-Detached Houses, Envelope Control Guidelines. You will be able to see the 3D diagram proving I'm correct.
  4. The following is another advise which I think you should understand. Increase in floor area "might" in turn affect your property tax. Let me explain: Property Tax is based on your property’s annual value. The way IRAS estimates your property’s annual value is by taking an estimate of how much rental income your property can fetch in the year. In other words, IRAS is taking your property’s rental potential as an estimate of its annual value. And rental value increase in direct relation with floor area (1 of the criteria, of course there are other factor such as location, etc). For example, rent for a 2000 sq ft landed property will be theoretically be lower than a 3000 sq ft landed property, assuming all other factor such as location, condition of property remain unchanged. If you had engage an architect, I'm sure most of the time the architect will try to maximize the potential of the land usage.
  5. I did a simplify diagram. Example 1 shows ceiling board & roof install together at same level (Assume maximum 5 m from Attic). After factoring the 45 degree spring line your allowed floor area is as shown. Example 2 shows Roof level remains but Ceiling is lower down, Floor area increase. Please note this is not the only criteria. Just serve to explain the concept of Spring Line in relation to height which affect the floor area In layman's term, Whatever you can build must be confine within the trapezoidal boundary (roof line, attic floor line & both the front & rear 45 degree spring line)
  6. Just for infor. Example an outdoor lap pool with internal dimension as 10M Length x 2M Width x 1.5M Depth, the cost (no profit) of material only (no labor & machinery as this varies between builders) for Architectural & Structural (meaning pool base & pool wall excluding pool decking) is already $29K to $31. Also to note this cost does not include Architectural & Structural for Balancing Tank, Assuming Balancing Tank takes up half the pool, You'll be looking at material only cost (No profit, no labor, no machinery) of $43.5K to $46.5K Pool Pump & Filtration System, in my 20 years experience database, quotation range from $15K to $25K. So the builder potential payout for material & pool sub-contractor range from $58.5K to $71.5K. Remember Labor & machinery cost not factor in yet. I'm just helping all who are not in the industry to understand the cost component. The pool size as mentioned above is based on reasonable conservative size which is suitable to be at the side of a semi-d house (Side set back 2 metre) Also to note if pool is build on soft earth, piling cost will be added which further increase the cost.
  7. I think the cost of 30K refers to only the pool pumps & filtration system. The structural (Concrete wall / base / cover for the pool, pool deck, balancing tank & pump storage) & architectural (waterproofing / tiling / timber decking, etc) is separate. Overall cost (Architectural, Structural & Pool Pump Filtration System / Pool lights) at least 150K (conservatively based on small pool) & this is only for outdoor pool in the ground. If it's indoor & elevated (ie: pool located in 2nd storey or attic) the cost will increase. There is also long term pool maintenance cost which varies between different pump brands / company.
  8. I forgot to clarify on this as mention by snoozee. During the submission, we were instructed by authorities & drainage department that, since the owner decide to demolish & rebuild, the ground level of the new house is to be raise about 1.5 meter. Hence, the "Half Above" basement wall double as retaining wall & no additional cost is required. The initial day 1 idea of the owner is to have a basement. So no issue. By this method, the owner save on extensive shoring, disposal of excavated earth, & importing of earth for raising the ground. this alone save approx #100K. Everything was done (including permit & documentation) according to authorities requirement.
  9. You are right. This simply means I earn less as there are no "reimbursement" on the GST I've paid to supplier / sub-contractor. I was involved from the start (ie: no architect, no plans), to planning (I'm the draft person preparing & physically drawing the plans at no cost to owner), to submission arrangement, to executing the job, getting all permits, insurance, etc & finally to completion all by myself. Many person says I must be nuts doing everything with such low profit but I genuinely love to do design, drafting, construction, etc. This the only way I can compete with the big boys. I like to clarify I do all drafting but I do engage an architect to do the checking of my drafted plans, endorsement & submission. This is also another way to save cost for the owner. As for the Professional Engineer, he is engage for every aspect throughout the job as required by law.
  10. Just to clarify, there is no risk involved as the perimeter of the excavated portion will have a 45 degree slope at front, side & rear. As for shoring by using steel sheet (with the project PE calculation / certification) is done on the party wall which is shared with the neighbor. In my case, I deliberately position the wall of the basement closest to the party wall to be 3 meters away in my design. Hence reduce the amount of shoring a little. On top of the above, I had arrange for de-watering pump with filtration discharge system. This is monitored round the clock by my 3 workers on rotation. As a licensed builder with my name as the registered person for my company, I have also a personal liabilities in the job. This simply means I will be held liable by the government for the building for the duration of the building's life span or my life, whichever is shorter. Hence, I will, of course, update myself with latest regulations by the authorities (URA, BCA, MOM, etc). During the course of my project, there were random inspection by the authorities with no problem at all. In fact, I've receive a casual comment from an officer that I overdid what is required by the authority. Better to be safe than sorry & I can sleep better with no worry.
  11. Maybe I can help with some layout to better help to advice on what is & is not necessary. Just email your requirement, I'll help with estimated cost. I forgot to mention that in the 2 storey semi-D with 1 basement & 1 Attic was completed without charging GST which means owner save another 80 to 90K. Of course this is all done legally as I do not take on many jobs & maintain my company's annual turnover below $1 million. I like to focus on design & cost saving which benefits both the owner & builder.
  12. Just to share my experience as a builder to advice how to save cost. For basement or underground construction, as long as the excavation depth does not exceed 1.5 metre, no ERSS will be needed. In the job which I've completed, I design the basement to be "Half above" & "Half below" the existing ground. This means assuming the ground of the origin land / house is 0 level, I only need to excavate 1.5 metre to construct the basement & the new 1st storey will be 1.5 metre above. As for the foundation pile cap / footing, it'll be within another 1.5 metre below the excavated basement. This potentially save the owner about 75 to 100k in ERSS cost including the ERSS Engineer Fee. As for the excavated earth, it can be recycle to top up the ground surrounding the basement. Of course, this method is feasible provided the authorities had already advice the new house's Reduced Level during the initial submission stage. In addition, the current authorities' requirement allows for opening for basement ventilation. Hence, in my design, the rear garden ground level remains unchanged as the old house with the side & front of the new house raised. This will allow a void on the rear basement wall. This means the owner save another cost to install mechanical ventilation fan to the basement.
  13. There is already a thread titled "Termite treatment?" As this forum hide post with web link, you can do a forum search for the title. Alternatively, google for keyword "NEA Pest Control Operator" for the full list of licensed pest control company. Normally, if your property does not have expose soil (ie: turfing, garden, etc), which also means your property's entire ground is covered with concrete floor slab, in my opinion, I wouldn't waste the money & do my own checks periodically. Do note that I say this because generally warranty does not cover much liability on damages by termite. Hence I stress that you look through your warranty terms to understand what is covered & weigh the cost against what is covered for damages (ie: it will better if warranty cover for replacement of damages, in monetary or the likes in full when termite do occur)
  14. As you are living in cluster house property, I assume it is not a stand alone house, right? A cluster house is essentially a few landed multi storey terrace or semi-d group together with shared amenities such as pools, etc. With this it is manage by a MCST (Management Corporation Strata Title) which in turn means an modification to your property unit must be submitted & approved before you start to engage PE, contractor, etc. Maybe you can look into feasibility of installing stair lift which travel along the stair's adjacent wall or railing. This will have minimal impact on the structural aspect of your property, which i feel may be earlier to get approved by MCST, etc.