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3Cube last won the day on January 6

3Cube had the most liked content!

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About 3Cube

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    Electronics, Interior Design / Architecture, Home Furnitures, Soft Furnishing / Home Accessories, Home Appliances, Home Automation

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  1. Looking at TS original plan, the new car porch roof should be on similar side. Also TS says this is CORNER TERRACE, which means this is last unit in the row of houses. So you're wrong.
  2. You did not pay attention. I did not contradict myself No. I said the 2.4 is from FRONT BOUNDARY TO EDGE OF CAR PORCH ROOF. This is front to front. I did not say side boundary. In your sketch you indicate another 2.4 metres from side party wall to side of car porch roof!!! I'm simply stating this is wrong. I've attached your sketch to show the mistake. 1) Circled in black can be extended to the side boundary where the "neighbor-shared" party wall is 2) Circled in red to maintain 2.4 metres from Front edge of Car Porch Roof to Front Boundary where the Main Gate is
  3. Just to note. This is charged by SP Services (not be your builder) & the actual cost will only be quoted prior to shifting (likely nearing the final quarter of the construction period). Separately, the builder will have to provide "pull through rope" & underground pipe during the construction.
  4. The 2.4 metre clearance from the side (right side of picture) is NOT REQUIRED. Meaning you can extend car porch roof to the share party wall. Also to note above the car porch roof cannot have an enclosed (meaning brick wall enclosure) room
  5. The 2.4 metre clearance is from car porch ROOF's edge to front boundary (Main Gate).
  6. This can be done using a combination of Steel Sections & Glass for both Lift Support / Wall & the Staircase wrapping around the lift wall.
  7. On top of everything Pete & Snoozee said, don't forget this is an inter-terrace, which means strutting & temporary support to left & right neighbor's house is a must. Especially so when basement is involved.
  8. In your first post, as highlighted in bold & underlined by me. I think you misunderstood the layman tern for 2.5 storey Usually the .5 means the Attic I assume you are looking at a basement floor, a 1st floor, a 2nd floor & an attic. For your scenario, you'll likely be able to get +/- 3,000 sq ft GFA / built-in area
  9. Of course not!!! In the past, owner save by just reinforcement to existing structure (ie: enlarge old columns, addition steel beams to old structure, etc) before addition a new upper storey. Now, this is no longer allowed if I remember correctly.
  10. The following is in addition to Snoozee post (Not attacking) to advice Saesao & eveyone else viwing this Topic This is a common misconception. If I remember correctly, since the few past incident (eg: Hotel New World, Upper Changi Road bridge collapse, etc), all building are no longer allowed to carry out reinforcement to existing structure for purpose of addition another floor. I find the majority in this forum thinks adding a floor is like lego. Imagine your physical body is the existing old building. You go to the mall to shop & have to carry your purchases around. As you proceed with the shopping, you get more to carry & it will come to a point where you can no longer carry & required a trolley. Similarly, a building (not just the physical building but also the soil load carrying capacity, piling, footing, etc) is design to carry & support 2 elements. One is the building itself (we call this Dead Load) & the other is everything else contain within the building (we call this Live Load). Hence there is a safety factor / threshold which the Professional Engineer will use as basis for structural design. So an old building build 50, 60 years ago does not have the same design requirement as now. Yes, you can still live in it provided no changes to the building. But any addition of floor, extension, etc will have to carry out fresh new submission & I think it's safe to say 99% of the time, the authorities will tell you to demolish & rebuild for safety reason. Besides, usually an old landed property will have low ceiling height. So the only way to increase safely is demolish & rebuild. Another reason. Most of the time when you buy a landed property, you might wish to "potentially" have a return on investment. By rebuilding, the property will, most time, increase in size, which in turn, increase the rental yield, future selling price, etc. Please understand & change your mindset thinking that adding another floor is simply like lego. When buying an old property, factor in ample cost on the land sale & redevelopment price. Remember, you get monkey when you pay peanuts. Adjust your expectation accordingly (Don't expect a own a BMW when you pay for price of a bicycle) Each time the authorities add a regulation, builders / owner incur cost. Example: Previously you don't need another separate Engineer for basement construction (basement as in totally submerge undergound) but now it is required. Hence increase consultant cost for owner. Also, previously there no such thing as noise monitoring, ground vibration monitoring etc. Now it's a must. Previously all piling work can be carried out by hammer. Now is not allowed. So as more regulation is added, cost goes up. Just thought I share my sentiment.
  11. I agree. But I did state that "Maximum" height is 5M. I fail to mention some estate only have allowable overall height of 12 M, while other have 15 M. So it depends on the location of the estate; which determine the individual storey height. I've personally designed, submitted, received approval from authorities & completed TOP (Hands on doing the design drawing) I just submitted another plans that my architect had checked base on the principle in the concept diagram. In my diagram as presented earlier, there are other elements which I omitted due to time constraint as I was rushing off, which you had shown. Such as the extended area with lower ceiling / roof at front & back. But I did mentioned "Whatever you can build must be confine within the trapezoidal boundary" I'm only trying to explain it with diagram as I think your earlier post explaining in words did not convey the idea to layman. I've no agenda against anyone. Just trying to help by simplifying the idea by presenting a diagram. I will try to allocate more time to clear & correctly help out in future postings.
  12. I can help to prepare plans & estimate. The estimate will includes everything from authority's fee, consultant fees, etc to final completion. Please contact me at threecubebuilders@ymail.com
  13. I stand correct. As this forum seems to hide weblink. Go to URA site, Guideline, Development Control, Semi-Detached Houses, Envelope Control Guidelines. You will be able to see the 3D diagram proving I'm correct.
  14. The following is another advise which I think you should understand. Increase in floor area "might" in turn affect your property tax. Let me explain: Property Tax is based on your property’s annual value. The way IRAS estimates your property’s annual value is by taking an estimate of how much rental income your property can fetch in the year. In other words, IRAS is taking your property’s rental potential as an estimate of its annual value. And rental value increase in direct relation with floor area (1 of the criteria, of course there are other factor such as location, etc). For example, rent for a 2000 sq ft landed property will be theoretically be lower than a 3000 sq ft landed property, assuming all other factor such as location, condition of property remain unchanged. If you had engage an architect, I'm sure most of the time the architect will try to maximize the potential of the land usage.
  15. I did a simplify diagram. Example 1 shows ceiling board & roof install together at same level (Assume maximum 5 m from Attic). After factoring the 45 degree spring line your allowed floor area is as shown. Example 2 shows Roof level remains but Ceiling is lower down, Floor area increase. Please note this is not the only criteria. Just serve to explain the concept of Spring Line in relation to height which affect the floor area In layman's term, Whatever you can build must be confine within the trapezoidal boundary (roof line, attic floor line & both the front & rear 45 degree spring line)