snoozee

check what is the height of floor to ceiling first. if you have just over 2.4m in height, then a ceiling fan will make it lower. even the shortest ceiling fan will be about 30cm+ in height. alternative is to just install wall mounted fans instead.

all flooring will have a gradient, just how much only. if you really not happy with the amount of gradient then tell your ID or contractor and ask them to redo.

floor tiles are never laid perfectly flat. a gradient is needed to allow for water flow.

Yes, you are right. I got mixed up with grilles for a moment. However do note that latches for folding doors/grilles tend to break after several years so you will face the security issue if both top and bottom latches for the same panel breaks at the same time

question is how is your swing door design? is is just a single panel door or part of a group of swing and fold sliding doors? if you are just having a single door, you should be able to use those push pull mortise locks provided there is the correct sized aluminum profiles in the market. take a korean brand digital door lock as example. the width from door edge to the other side of the lock edge is about 115mm while the depth of the mortise mechanism is about 104mm so you will need a piece of door frame which is of at least 120mm wide in order for the lock to be installed. i'm not sure if there are aluminum profiles which are of 120mm wide or bigger. if there is no such width of aluminum profile, then of cos the vendors will tell you can't be done since they can't fabricate something for it in the first place. now if what you have is a series of foldable doors, then the push pull mortise lock won't work at all since once the other panels are unlatched, the whole series of doors can be opened even if you have a mortise lock installed. even if you have a rim lock which has a retractable mechanism, it won't work as well. for this type of doors, you need those rim lock which the lock mechanism is actually latching/grabbing on to the base on the other side.

do you have grilles in front/behind the swing door? how thick/wide is the frame of the door? you could try to explore those locks for HDB metal gates. plenty of options

You may want to get your contractor to check on the roof flashings to see if they are ok. else just scrap away the damaged paint and then repaint with new sealer and paint. Then monitor again to see if the problem comes back

Is you and/or your neighbour’s house rebuilt previously? is the roof directly above this room or is there another storey? If roof is directly above, it could be leakage from the roof or flashing between you and your neighbour’s roof which caused this. During the heavy rain over the last 2 weeks did you managed to feel to wall to see if it is wet? You can always repaint the wall but if there is really a leak and isn’t fixed then the problem will still remain

Looks like water seepage causing the paint to “pop”. Is the other side of the wall a toilet shower or external wall? if toilet shower then need to redo water proofing. if external wall then need to see if there’s cracks on the plaster and fix it. Maybe need to do a layer of waterproofing sealing paint as well The blisters need to be scrapped off and then whole wall should be painted with sealer first then finishing paint

Waterproofing usually done on surface which will be in contact with water. If you have car porch roof terrace then waterproofing should be done on top and not below

if your main contractor's electrician is running all the network cabling as part of your building contract, then the WIFI subcon should omit this item out from their quotation. as mentioned before, you need to have a confirmed WIFI layout plan first before you confirm any network subcon's quotation as your electrician will need to know where to run the ceiling conduits and cable for your WIFI access points. It cannot be your electrician run the conduits and cables to where he wants and the locations are not where the WIFI access points are supposed to be at. yes it is a tiring journey rebuilding the house but it will be a fulfilling journey when you get to the end of the line eventually.

depends on where you install the pivot mechanism. if your main door is 1.2m wide and your pivot mechanism is installed at 20cm from the edge of the frame, then you still have around 1m to walk through. standard room doors are usually 800mm or 900mm wide so with 1m width for main door should still be sufficient.

note that you are not allowed to make any modifications to the vent itself as it is against the law. even though the regulations allow for the vent to be partially covered during peace time with architectural fittings and such, it explicitly mentioned against "Modifying, altering or tampering with any part of the ventilation openings, plates and the mounting devices such as bolts and nuts." The plastering of the vent hole would most likely fall under "modification, alteration" and hence is illegal no matter what the seller tells you. if you want to be clear, can always contact SCDF for clarifications.

mine is independent. it really depends on what type of lock set you want to install on your main door. if you want to be linked to the side gate, then you will need to find a lock system which can be triggered via access card of keypad (eg: those office magnetic door locks) and then have the system linked up to your side gate access control system. Technically can be done and it's just a matter of what is being used and how it will end up looking aesthetically.

for CCTV, there are plenty of resellers so it's just a matter of who you decide to go with. the usual brands like Hikvision or Dahua should be quite safe. Unless you want something from a single brand which has complete package with WIFI solutions, then Ubiquiti has a complete solution from CCTVs to access points and POE network switches, routers, DVRs, etc. what kind of intercom are you referring to? are you referring to video doorbell with intercom or just internal intercom system? for video doorbell, I think AWS had mentioned some recommendations in another thread. If you are looking for internal intercom, maybe can consider using a PBX phone system instead. I have a Panasonic PBX system installed for my house and it has intercom functionalities besides being a house phone for incoming/outgoing calls.

is the company which quoted you for WIFI is also the electrical subcon for your builder? when i rebuilt my house, my WIFI was already planned in advanced based on the floor plans and the network wiring is part of the electrical works quote. This was done so that the electrical subcon will pull all the necessary network cables for the walls as well as ceiling (for WIFI access points) and I don't have to do add on later. It's easier to do all the conduits when construction is ongoing rather than retrofit later. I won't say the quote is dubious but equipment markup is there and I showed you the retail pricing. the company who quoted you would have gotten the equipment even cheaper due to discounts, etc from the sales channel partners. Also there is a mistake in the quotation on the access points. The total cost is based on 10 units but quote is for 9 units only. Can't really comment on the manpower cost for configuration but if your builder's electrical subcon can pull the conduits and cables, it shouldn't cost you $2k. To really plan out WIFI for a building, the floor plans need to be studied first so that the optimal locations for access points can be planned. Just because you have a detached house, it doesn't mean you need to have WIFI access points everywhere though this may reduce the chances of you having problems with the coverage. but too many access points may also cause you problems due to signals crossing each other and such due to the proximity of the access points. WIFI signal doesn't just cast itself in a single plane but is like a 360 degrees coverage with certain areas of the device casting more signal and certain areas casting less. for my house, i have 4 access points and when i am in my MBR in the attic, sometimes I get connected to the access point on the lower level instead of the one in my room. I do not know what is your house layout but if you feel this quote doesn't seem right, seek other companies to quote based on your house floor plan. then you can compare quotations and see whether this current one is fair or not.

how big is your house that your contractor quoted you 9 access points? HP AP22 Aruba Instant On Wi-Fi 6 AX1800 Smart Mesh Cloud Access Point - $259 online HPE 1420 24G PoE+ (124W) Switch JH019A - $460 online APC 500VA UPS - $120 online one thing good about HPE products is that they have limited lifetime warranty. if you are rebuilding your house, you should tell your electrician to pull the conduits for you first. else you will have problems trying to pull wires through walls, etc to get to the server room

tempered glass should suffice since the doors won't be acting as barriers

search for operable wall. these are the wall partition panels which are commonly found in hotels function rooms and banquet halls. there is one company (great year industries) who is the agent for a german company (abopart) and the german company has glass panel operable walls like the photo below.

then it would be something like those event halls in hotels which have removable walls using partitions. Get your contractor to source. When I was scoping up my house requirements, I heard my architect mention about this type of panel walls and seems that cost start from 5k onwards.

my architect specified it as "sliding and folding" glass door. I think any aluminum window/door contractor can do. nothing special about it as it's just normal aluminum framed glass doors with special hinges and sliding tracks unless you are asking for what @Kellhound found in the video he shared

Well, you are the owner so you make the final decision. yes, bifold doors but multiple panels and you can slide everything to one side to open up. Also with a master panel which is a door for daily access. Similar to the video you found but different technology.

if your sliding door rollers start to fail, you may have problems opening/closing the doors. maybe instead of sliding doors, do slide and fold doors? then you can use one of the panels as a swing door to enter/exit the house. of cos this is provided you are not planning to install any grilles as the grilles can get in the way.

is your door and ironmongery under your main contractors scope? if yes, just tell him to go and source for you. pivot door just uses a different type of hinge mechanism from normal doors and the door frame is different also. normal doors have hinges on the edge and the door will close "inside" the door frame but the frame for pivot doors will be around the door instead.

yes this is correct. basically it is the precon survey with photos being taken of the condition of the neighbours houses. this is done so that any disputes to your neighbours' property damage during your renovation can be confirmed that it was due to your renovation and not because of original damage. mainly to protect against false claims. BCA is the one issuing permit to start work and not URA. without the consent forms of your neighbours, BCA will not issue the permit. Unless the neighbour cannot be reached after numerous attempts, then BCA will allow for that particular neighbour's consent to be excluded since cannot be reached to provide consent. Ask your contactor to be on the ball about this and you may also want to go and help find the neighbours out of courtesy. My own project was delayed because one neighbour played hard to get and we never managed to obtain the consent after 2 months of trying to reach the owner even after sending registered letters and going to the house to look for them.