hmm.. maybe can consider DIY for the cove lights, just ask my electrician to leave the wires exposed then the rest settle myself.

I am prepared to be carrot cake chopped for the electrical portion. Sure one.

But if DIY, u need to take note which exposed wires are for which lightings. If you all daisy chain then simple lar... Then as long as you know which one is Earth, Live and Neutral wires, i think no problem. Buy yr own faceplates and terminate them yourself.

There is one thing which i not sure if can DIY:

What if i want a 2-way light control? Say, i switch the light on at main entrance, and there is another switch to switch the light off at the kitchen entrance.

I am prepared to be carrot cake chopped for the electrical portion. Sure one.

But if DIY, u need to take note which exposed wires are for which lightings. If you all daisy chain then simple lar... Then as long as you know which one is Earth, Live and Neutral wires, i think no problem. Buy yr own faceplates and terminate them yourself.

There is one thing which i not sure if can DIY:

What if i want a 2-way light control? Say, i switch the light on at main entrance, and there is another switch to switch the light off at the kitchen entrance.

thanks for the reminder. should be ok, can ask my dad for assistance and supervision.

2 ways switch, i also dunno how to do it. anyway i am not intending to do any 2 way switch. small house, walk abit nvm.

i know what u mean. for cove light, i will only turn it on when i want the lights to be dimmer o/w it'll all remain switched off, so I think for my requirements, all on and off together should be ok. maybe after the 1st month utilities bill then i will regret. :0

anyway now i am open to all ideas before deciding on what to do later this week.

I think all infrastructure works have to plan carefully. If now you daisy chain all, next time hard to change liao.. gotta re-run wires and hack away your L box. Unless you create access panels in L-Box, standby for future cable run. If not take out the downlights, make use of the hole to run cables also can.

thanks for the reminder. should be ok, can ask my dad for assistance and supervision.

2 ways switch, i also dunno how to do it. anyway i am not intending to do any 2 way switch. small house, walk abit nvm.

Sometimes is like very lazy la, u lie on bed already, then u can turn off the light there, no need to get up again and walk to doorway...

I think all infrastructure works have to plan carefully. If now you daisy chain all, next time hard to change liao.. gotta re-run wires and hack away your L box. Unless you create access panels in L-Box, standby for future cable run. If not take out the downlights, make use of the hole to run cables also can.

yah, that's why headache now.

next year's fiber cable installation also another headache. going to check with my electrician and contractor on whether can do something now so that can install the fiber cable into the existing l-box and trunking when the installation happens end of next year.

Sometimes is like very lazy la, u lie on bed already, then u can turn off the light there, no need to get up again and walk to doorway...

haha.. i know. nvm lah.. save $$, do more exercise.

Edited December 21, 200916 yr by alamak

hmm.. concept. we do not have a specific concept, living room will be mainly black and white with a touch of red (modern i guess) while MBR going for a more cosy feel. dunno how our place will turn out cos no ID involved. *fingers crossed*

I'm sure it will turn out well. Enjoy the reno process and you will definitely like the end product.

hmm.. concept. we do not have a specific concept, living room will be mainly black and white with a touch of red (modern i guess) while MBR going for a more cosy feel. dunno how our place will turn out cos no ID involved. *fingers crossed*

No ID = less carrot chopping

No ID = less carrot chopping

Second that man!

yah, that's why headache now.

next year's fiber cable installation also another headache. going to check with my electrician and contractor on whether can do something now so that can install the fiber cable into the existing l-box and trunking when the installation happens end of next year.

haha.. i know. nvm lah.. save $$, do more exercise.

Create 2 access panel at each side of the L-box for future cabling works. If not just rely on the PLC light hole but dunno big enuff a not.

Also take note if for exposed trunking now you need to use a slightly bigger now a not. If not next time have to tear out existing one and use a bigger one.

hi guys, need some opinions regarding my living room l-box again.

would like to check, if i do a l-box 2ft out from the wall with cove lighting, will it look too small or weird? my living room width is 2.8m. the box on the right is a false ceiling just to level up the exposed kitchen ceiling.

wanted to do 3ft from the wall but have to top up $$. trying to minimize the amount of VO.

thanks.

Edited December 24, 200916 yr by alamak

2 ft can lah...moreover,to avoid topping $$,stay as it is.

Anyway,your living area is narrow type,the width not very wide,

it would look sleek!

thanks for the suggestion.

2 ft can lah...moreover,to avoid topping $$,stay as it is.

Anyway,your living area is narrow type,the width not very wide,

it would look sleek!

I agree with Rondy, 2 ft (62cm) is okie. I read before that for cove light, minimum width is 20% of ceiling width. 62/280 = 22%

so should be okie.

hi guys, need some opinions regarding my living room l-box again.

would like to check, if i do a l-box 2ft out from the wall with cove lighting, will it look too small or weird? my living room width is 2.8m. the box on the right is a false ceiling just to level up the exposed kitchen ceiling.

wanted to do 3ft from the wall but have to top up $$. trying to minimize the amount of VO.

thanks.

Hi Alamak, been following your blog closely coz it is very helpful to me also.. now i am also thinking about cove lighting. Learnt something new - "20% of ceiling width" haha.

Measurement aside, im my opinion, the false ceiling should not be too out from the wall because if it is too out, the area underneath the false ceiling (sofa) will be very dark.

Also the pelmet to hold the tube should be as low as possible, maybe just enuff to stop the tube from rolling out and drop on the floor, then maximum amt of light can disperse outward into the living room. Maybe dun need wo ON downlight also...

If u purely want the cove light for ambience then it doesnt matter la... what i say above..

Also, your false ceiling for dining area should extend more to the left to cover the dining area more, for aesthetic reason. If not the dining area will have half false ceiling, half L-box. But if you are ok with the present design then ok ah.

Edited December 24, 200916 yr by gantan88

I agree with Rondy, 2 ft (62cm) is okie. I read before that for cove light, minimum width is 20% of ceiling width. 62/280 = 22%

so should be okie.

thanks. learnt something new today.

Hi Alamak, been following your blog closely coz it is very helpful to me also.. now i am also thinking about cove lighting. Learnt something new - "20% of ceiling width" haha.

Measurement aside, im my opinion, the false ceiling should not be too out from the wall because if it is too out, the area underneath the false ceiling (sofa) will be very dark.

Also the pelmet to hold the tube should be as low as possible, maybe just enuff to stop the tube from rolling out and drop on the floor, then maximum amt of light can disperse outward into the living room. Maybe dun need wo ON downlight also...

If u purely want the cove light for ambience then it doesnt matter la... what i say above..

Also, your false ceiling for dining area should extend more to the left to cover the dining area more, for aesthetic reason. If not the dining area will have half false ceiling, half L-box. But if you are ok with the present design then ok ah.

me also following your blog closely.

the area underneath the false ceiling will be lighted up by the down lights, i think should be ok.

initially wanted to do a L-shaped so that above the dining table will have a whole stretch of false ceiling wall-to-wall but have to top up even more. so KIV. looking for something practical, lower cost and yet will not look too shabby.