w7_lee

Cannot say it is cheap but I think $530 is reasonable. $80-$120 is not possible, this is only the price to cover 'labor' to install the heater. You need to be mindful that the pipe cost money and depending on where the pipe is going to come from and how far to Guest toilet.

Picture helps. I'm also HDB dweller but mine is bi-fold, so cannot image the handle you guys are talking about.

Did you try Sim Lim Tower? I am not sure if you can find it there but they sell soldering stuff. The other option is go to Element14 Singapore website and search Exhaust Fan. I did not look hard but some looks like what you found on aliexpress.

It serve no purpose to cover it up, you can't see it unless you happen to be on a ladder. The bottom is impossible to know unless you happen to slide a mirror between the floor & door. If you want, you can use the wood party to seal the gaps, sand it down and apply varnish. That's the top. The bottom, you are going to have to remove the door from the hinge to do it. Even if you check on your main wooden door (which is fire rated - BCA standard requirement), the top & bottom are also un-varnish. If you feel with your fingers, they are probably raw wood too. Maybe if you are lucky, there is a light varnish.

It's normal. I worked in a wooden door manufacturing company almost 20 years back and it's always been this way. It is an industrial practice in Singapore & Malaysia. Other countries I don't know.

I am not sure if they sell but did you try Homefix or Self-fix? Otherwise, go to industrial hardware shop. If you are staying at the east, try the hardware shop at Blk 4A, Loyang Industrial Estate. More central location is SL Tower.

It's just that when you use the word 'washer', steel type comes to my mind but I also thought they could be the rubber type too.

My opinion is that if the ID is doing it FOC, then go ahead since you are not staying there yet. But nowadays, stainless steel sink are not as good as 'stainless steel' sink from before. The materials are not so pure. To keep cost low, which country do you think the steel came from? Maybe when fixing the tap or during renovation, the workers might have place some tool (or screws) in the sink when working. There might have been water present subsequently, so rust forms later. The sink is not rusting but whatever tiny pieces of metal bur/chip from normal metal is causing it. Regarding the rust stain, Autosol works fine. I had use it on my sink too. It'll remove most of the rust stain. Yes, the area that you've polished will not have the mirror finish anymore but trust me, when you move in permanent, the sink will scratch when you do washing and you will loose the mirror finish. With usage, the rust normally does not form anymore (in my case). One thing to be aware: do not leave a metal can in the sink for too long. Example are those ready to eat mushroom soup in a can. It's not the soup people's fault but those cans are made from ferrous metal (use a magnet to check). If the can is wet and you leave it in the sink (especially overnight), next morning you will find a perfect circular rust stain in the sink. My experience. It also explains why we do not want to buy cans that has dent. Always wash the sink after use, especially if you have place such an above mentioned can in the sink. I am not certain why it is so but I think when the metal rust, some of the rusted metal stays on the sink even if the can is removed. So I will wash the sink using the sponge and dishwashing detergent to wash the sink. It removes the oil too. Soft drink cans (aluminium) and glass sauce do not give this problem.

Hi, I am asking just for my general knowledge. Are you using rubber or steel washers?

If you are still looking, try horme.com.sg Listed on their website, look under Industrial Consumable Goods, Other Consumable Product, page 3 & 4 Not sure if they deliver.

Ah.... DBSS! The type that is up to BCA standard but recently got a lot of problem reported in the news! It is interesting that the DBSS developer choose to use a tap that is so unique. Maybe to keep cost low, they (developer or supplier) had to import directly from the tap manufacturer. Maybe to keep cost low, tap manufacturer offered them some design that they have ready-in-stock but is another 'type' (maybe meant for another continent, if not for another world/dimension). Disclaimer: Having said the above, I have to clarify that I am just saying 'maybe' and can be completely wrong. It might be possible to purchase a 100% compatible adapter locally. All are welcome to correct me. I never see your type in Singapore or Malaysia, so I don't think you can easily get a replacement. Worst case is to remove the tap and replace with a locally available one. And you may want to check how it is with the other accessories, just to see how 'unique' those are. Good luck.

The adapter you bought does not match the tap. The threaded portion match but the internal do not. Your original has an inner wall. I believe that's why it seals correctly. The one you purchase do not have this wall, so the water is leaking out from there. You toilet looks like new, so I assume is DBSS or BTO (if not a private). Find out from the developer what brand is the tap.

Your second picture already have the manufacturer's company label on it (with website & phone number).

1) About stainless steel hinge, never seen them before but would be expensive if they exist. 2) I don't think your contractor give you low quality hinge. It could be the hinges was expose to water during storage, renovation, etc... if you have not use a very wet cloth to wipe them after the renovation. These hinges normally don't rust that easily. 3) You can purchase from normal hardware shop but roland is right, bring a piece along as sample.

Oh... that's too bad. But it just a suggestion... you connect the incoming LNE to the connector but don't connect to the heater. Then your faulty heater is not connected to the house circuit. Then switch the breaker on one at a time and see which circuit is tripping. You can also switch appliances off and turn them on one at a time.

When you are cutting, the cutter is metal and will conduct electricity. Even thou you have switch of the circuit for the heater at the DB box, you are only isolating electricity from reaching you (safety). But if the L, N or E touch the cutter at the same time, the mains DB will trip. Make sure nothing touch the cutter or each other when cutting. In any case, it just trip. You can let it trip, get everything done, connect up and then reset the trip last.

Take some good clear pictures of the floor now and do it every week. If now the floor is flat and the joints are very small (or almost not detectable), when the floor really dry up, the wood will change shape and form. The floor won't be flat especially at the edges. The joints will become larger too. But in any case, how will you know if the plumber company will admit it in 2 months time? Got black & white?

Because this is electrical, so I feel that I shouldn't be suggesting this. But if you are electrically incline, get a new connector and re-strip your LNE and re-connect it back again. If it works, than probably your L was not properly tighten and was arcing. If there is still a problem, the circuit breaker will trip and you are better off getting a new heater.

I would extend the pole and shorten the chain.

Balcony is false ceiling or concrete? If concrete, is there an electrical termination point for you to install balcony light? If false ceiling, do you know if there is a termination point above? This is just to know if you really need to extend the cable.

For question 1, they are right. Unless you are doing the floor, otherwise there is a risk the waterproofing can be damage. Question 2, normally I see the corners have this problem. This is because the grinder can't get to the corners. The other places should not have this problem.

Bro, your place is HDB BTO or private condo? 2 timble? I install just 1 timble in my bathroom sink tap and my wife already screaming that water flow is too small.... I actually had to take it off and punch a few more holes to increase the flowrate. Anyway, good that your problem is solve. Enjoy your washing.

Stainless steel got many grades, the good ones won't rust. I carry my phone in a belt clip pouch that has a magnetic flap (to close the pouch). When buying things that claim to be stainless steel, I use the magnet on my pouch to test if the magnet sticks to the steel. If it does, I know the stainless steel isn't really stainless steel. I will do this test on a $50 stainless steel shampoo holder but not on a $7 holder. It comes down to the price of the item, if it is cheap, don't expect too much.

Not sure if this image works but I mentioned earlier that I painted the metal door frame of the toilet at my parents home. This is how it looks now. I think it looks quite OK considering that it's been >10 years. But I think I should have tape the floor before I painted it so that it looks nicer.