3Cube

While it is a nice unique feature to a property, not to mention it help to increase, to a small extend, the reselling consideration. The following are my thoughts as a builder to highlight to you: 1. Privacy might be an issue. I say this as some owners might design there attic's entire floor to be their Main Bedroom with extended outdoor terrace. Hence access to the pool for the rest of the occupants or visitor must be included in your consideration. 2. Space for pool will be more restricted as compare to pool that are build on ground floor. The authorities allow sunken structures such as pool, basement to be extended to the boundary lines. In layman's term, this means the external face for the sunken structure is align with the boundary. This will maximize GFA usage if the pool is on the ground floor as compared to other floors (ie: 2nd storey, attic). This also added consideration on overall property's design constraint, room space allocation & configuration. 3. Overall construction cost will be slightly higher as having an attic pool will incur extra dead load (layman's term fixed loading weight as Engineer will have to assume the pool will be filled with water at all times) to the building as compare to conventional sunken ground floor pool. Structurally the steel bars encase in concrete will increase to handle the extra load. This is in addition to additional waterproofing measures which increases the cost as builder has to consider warranty factors (added risk of leakage even if everything is done to spec). 4. Vibration / noise of pool pumps might affect the cost as additional design must be done to counter this. I'm not a pool equipment specialist but from the jobs I works on over the years. such pumps are usually allocated near the pool. 5. Addition pump (not for the pool) for supply to the entire property might be required to regulate & balance flow pressure to all kitchen, bath , pool etc. 6. Long term maintenance may be higher as compare to sunken ground pool.

While I can certainly understand your economical considerations, you should be made aware that BCA licensed contractor usually base the sizing of tank on calculation on adequate usage. There are also consideration on water supply in case when the pump breaks down or out of operation due to servicing (in the case where the tank is located on roof or highest level to use gravitational flow supply). Another thing to be aware is the building structure. Your existing structure was previously design to accommodate the dead (dead load = fixed load in layman terms) loading of the tank (including full content). Hence if you should want to relocate the tank location position, you may need a structural consultation. The purpose of this post is just to highlight issue that may be overlooked.

I ain't taking sides on this issue. But as a building contractor, these are my previous years of observations on the practices: Architect charging 10% or higher, may in this case act as Consulting Team Leader. This means Professional Engineer, M&E Engineer, Quantity Surveyor, Landscape Architect, etc are engage & paid by the Leader. This is usual for big project (ie: GCB, Off-Shore Sentosa Residential, etc). I'm not sure on whether this is still practice now. As for lower cost jobs (Common landed Semi-D, Terrace, etc), the Architect may charge between 5~9% of the construction cost, which in this case does not factor in other consultant's fees as afore-mentioned. "Branded", Famed, Renowned Architect firm may cost 10~12.5%. Any other jobs with lower projected cost, the Architect's fee could be a lump sum. On a side note (Still not taking sides), think about this. When one goes to the doctor, does the doctor charge for consultation?? I say this as recently my wife had few visit to Gynaecologist. Sometimes, even without medication, consultation fees is charged.

Just to add on detail. As long as the highest outlet of your tap point does not exceed Singapore's Reduced level of 125 metres, water supply for household consumption (ie: shower, basin, wc, etc) is not required as the water pressure is adequate.

Depends on what the purpose for the tank & pump. If it's for water supply to daily indoor household like bathing, cooking etc, then go to BCA Directory & search under ME12 - Plumbing Company. If it's for Pool, Pond, etc, then google for Swimming Pool Contractor, & check the company in BCA Directory under ME11 - Mechanical Engineering (There is no specificacategory for pool & pond, etc) Also to help you understand if you need the tank & pump for plumbing, you can refer to my post (search in this forum under title "Reduced Level" of Landed Property posted on 25 October 2018

Suggest you visit the site Archdaily & search for keyword "House at Joo Hong Road / Lim Chai Boon"

Also, fitz00, the response is due to you wording in your second post on this thread as follows: "Would adding a second storey be much cheaper than a rebuild"

Refer to my second post & you'll understand it's no advisable. Besides, old property tend to have low ceiling height & you can't just jack up the ceiling, chop the column & fill in the column void to raise the ceiling height. I'm saying this as most owner would like to have high ceiling. I'm also not assuming you want this. This is the popular trend & it help in future when you sell the property. Think long term instead, is what I'm saying

Come to think of it, I may not be clear on my earlier post. To put it in another way to help understand: My name & NRIC is registered as licensed holder of the builder. When I complete a building, I have to endorse the Builder's Certificate (part of various form needed to submit for TOP by law). My personal liabilities on the "As-Built" building (excluding any additions & alteration by owner after I hand over) is only absolved after I passed away or after the "As-Built" building is demolish for purpose of rebuild, etc, whichever is later. This applies to the Architect, Professional Engineer, etc.

I also forgot to highlight this. When the old single storey building is retained & additional piling is needed. You have to understand it'll be more expensive for "Mobilization Cost". Which means some contractor, subject to site condition, might just add in cost of demolish & reinstate as the mobilization cost. If not, then you tell me how to move the piling rig (which looks like a mini tank) to the back or centre of the old building without damaging the old building??!! Please keep in mind most time there is no side or rear access to the site. This is just a practical explanation to help all to understand.

I use to post on this forum regularly but not any more. Why? You have to understand this: You can have Lego model after a buildings but building can't be based on Lego concept. Adding storey is not like Lego where you simply just stack on. There will be consequences!!! Look at the various history of collapse locally & you should understand. Take for example: Imagine the human body to be a building. The feet is the foundation of the building. The bone & muscles of upper body are the beams & columns of a building & the skim is the brickwall etc. Normal healthy body will be able to stand on their own feet. As the body put on more weigh (similar to building stacking more storey / floors), there will come a point in extreme cases where the too much body weigh is gain that the feet simply cannot support & cracks. So think about this. Are you going to compromise the safety of the inhabitant to save money? Besides, with the ever tightening local laws & regulations due to the various structural collapse, I strongly doubt any Professional Engineer in his / her right mind will risk their Professional License to design building Lego style to help the owner save money. Similar so for the licensed builders. No body in their right mind will risk this to secure a job. Also, as a builder myself, I need all to understand this. After every building is completed, The Architect, Professional Engineer, Licensed Builder, Licensed Electrician, Licensed Plumber, etc will need to endorse a form to submit for application of the TOP (Temporary Occupation Permit). This bounds the individual (Architect, Engineer, Builder, etc) for the duration of the building (until the building is demolished for another rebuild in the future) or the individual's LIFE, whichever is later!! Hope everyone understand this & will be reasonable on cost expectation from now on.

Looking at TS original plan, the new car porch roof should be on similar side. Also TS says this is CORNER TERRACE, which means this is last unit in the row of houses. So you're wrong.

You did not pay attention. I did not contradict myself No. I said the 2.4 is from FRONT BOUNDARY TO EDGE OF CAR PORCH ROOF. This is front to front. I did not say side boundary. In your sketch you indicate another 2.4 metres from side party wall to side of car porch roof!!! I'm simply stating this is wrong. I've attached your sketch to show the mistake. 1) Circled in black can be extended to the side boundary where the "neighbor-shared" party wall is 2) Circled in red to maintain 2.4 metres from Front edge of Car Porch Roof to Front Boundary where the Main Gate is

Just to note. This is charged by SP Services (not be your builder) & the actual cost will only be quoted prior to shifting (likely nearing the final quarter of the construction period). Separately, the builder will have to provide "pull through rope" & underground pipe during the construction.

The 2.4 metre clearance from the side (right side of picture) is NOT REQUIRED. Meaning you can extend car porch roof to the share party wall. Also to note above the car porch roof cannot have an enclosed (meaning brick wall enclosure) room

The 2.4 metre clearance is from car porch ROOF's edge to front boundary (Main Gate).

This can be done using a combination of Steel Sections & Glass for both Lift Support / Wall & the Staircase wrapping around the lift wall.

On top of everything Pete & Snoozee said, don't forget this is an inter-terrace, which means strutting & temporary support to left & right neighbor's house is a must. Especially so when basement is involved.

In your first post, as highlighted in bold & underlined by me. I think you misunderstood the layman tern for 2.5 storey Usually the .5 means the Attic I assume you are looking at a basement floor, a 1st floor, a 2nd floor & an attic. For your scenario, you'll likely be able to get +/- 3,000 sq ft GFA / built-in area

Of course not!!! In the past, owner save by just reinforcement to existing structure (ie: enlarge old columns, addition steel beams to old structure, etc) before addition a new upper storey. Now, this is no longer allowed if I remember correctly.

The following is in addition to Snoozee post (Not attacking) to advice Saesao & eveyone else viwing this Topic This is a common misconception. If I remember correctly, since the few past incident (eg: Hotel New World, Upper Changi Road bridge collapse, etc), all building are no longer allowed to carry out reinforcement to existing structure for purpose of addition another floor. I find the majority in this forum thinks adding a floor is like lego. Imagine your physical body is the existing old building. You go to the mall to shop & have to carry your purchases around. As you proceed with the shopping, you get more to carry & it will come to a point where you can no longer carry & required a trolley. Similarly, a building (not just the physical building but also the soil load carrying capacity, piling, footing, etc) is design to carry & support 2 elements. One is the building itself (we call this Dead Load) & the other is everything else contain within the building (we call this Live Load). Hence there is a safety factor / threshold which the Professional Engineer will use as basis for structural design. So an old building build 50, 60 years ago does not have the same design requirement as now. Yes, you can still live in it provided no changes to the building. But any addition of floor, extension, etc will have to carry out fresh new submission & I think it's safe to say 99% of the time, the authorities will tell you to demolish & rebuild for safety reason. Besides, usually an old landed property will have low ceiling height. So the only way to increase safely is demolish & rebuild. Another reason. Most of the time when you buy a landed property, you might wish to "potentially" have a return on investment. By rebuilding, the property will, most time, increase in size, which in turn, increase the rental yield, future selling price, etc. Please understand & change your mindset thinking that adding another floor is simply like lego. When buying an old property, factor in ample cost on the land sale & redevelopment price. Remember, you get monkey when you pay peanuts. Adjust your expectation accordingly (Don't expect a own a BMW when you pay for price of a bicycle) Each time the authorities add a regulation, builders / owner incur cost. Example: Previously you don't need another separate Engineer for basement construction (basement as in totally submerge undergound) but now it is required. Hence increase consultant cost for owner. Also, previously there no such thing as noise monitoring, ground vibration monitoring etc. Now it's a must. Previously all piling work can be carried out by hammer. Now is not allowed. So as more regulation is added, cost goes up. Just thought I share my sentiment.

I agree. But I did state that "Maximum" height is 5M. I fail to mention some estate only have allowable overall height of 12 M, while other have 15 M. So it depends on the location of the estate; which determine the individual storey height. I've personally designed, submitted, received approval from authorities & completed TOP (Hands on doing the design drawing) I just submitted another plans that my architect had checked base on the principle in the concept diagram. In my diagram as presented earlier, there are other elements which I omitted due to time constraint as I was rushing off, which you had shown. Such as the extended area with lower ceiling / roof at front & back. But I did mentioned "Whatever you can build must be confine within the trapezoidal boundary" I'm only trying to explain it with diagram as I think your earlier post explaining in words did not convey the idea to layman. I've no agenda against anyone. Just trying to help by simplifying the idea by presenting a diagram. I will try to allocate more time to clear & correctly help out in future postings.

I can help to prepare plans & estimate. The estimate will includes everything from authority's fee, consultant fees, etc to final completion. Please contact me at threecubebuilders@ymail.com

I stand correct. As this forum seems to hide weblink. Go to URA site, Guideline, Development Control, Semi-Detached Houses, Envelope Control Guidelines. You will be able to see the 3D diagram proving I'm correct.

The following is another advise which I think you should understand. Increase in floor area "might" in turn affect your property tax. Let me explain: Property Tax is based on your property’s annual value. The way IRAS estimates your property’s annual value is by taking an estimate of how much rental income your property can fetch in the year. In other words, IRAS is taking your property’s rental potential as an estimate of its annual value. And rental value increase in direct relation with floor area (1 of the criteria, of course there are other factor such as location, etc). For example, rent for a 2000 sq ft landed property will be theoretically be lower than a 3000 sq ft landed property, assuming all other factor such as location, condition of property remain unchanged. If you had engage an architect, I'm sure most of the time the architect will try to maximize the potential of the land usage.