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Firstly, in Singapore most of carpenter use solid ply (normally known in the trade as broad board) for cabinet door as labour is expensive in Singapore. As for rosewood only $1.5k, how big is your bookcase? I think they are still using solid ply to construct but veneer stained to rosewood colour that's all. To find solid rosewood in Singapore is near impossible and your $1.5k can only afford a 3ft by 3ft solid rose wood bookshelf

Yes, it must be clean and mop dry before installation. the sound you mentioned could be due to the loose sand which raise a portion of the laminate floor creating a hollow in between and hence rubbing sound between the wood. If this is the case, your floor should pop up in no time. Didn't you put a thousand dollar note on the floor before the installation and ask the worker if they need to clean the dirty note away too?... LOL. No. The term is call lay-on. Cement screed is the non finish base element to level floor. Overlay means laying a floor finishes over another floor finishes like tile on tile or laminate or parquet. Why should you allow them to sweep dust under it when there is an opportunity to keep it clean? Sand particles is not ok; depend on the size of the sand. the foam is only 5mm think, don't ever expect it to do mirical. The purpose of foam is to minimize the sound but not as sound proof. The sound of laminate floor do not goes off over time and the general term of laminate floor is know as float floor which mean it is not bonded to the floor but floating on it. So how can you expect the sound to goes off.

Depend on area. L box compute by length where false ceiling by area. There is no way to compare between them. Besides, they are different in design - Compare apple to apple la.

This is a design fault. Usually, between L shape cabinet, one side of the cabinet should have at least 75mm allowance before the other door install. If the adjacent door do not have any allowance of less than 75mm, then it is a design fault. It is very complicated to convert casement door to sliding door. neither it is good to remove the handles as point 1 the screw holes are drilled and no way to patch on laminated finishes, point 2 do you think if you change on the particular door handle, will it look odd when the other handles are different?

Again, most of the ppl here do not have full understand of material, even some ID is not experience on that. In fact ABS is just a material used for edging on doors, table top and any edge finishes. However, it is restricted to 40mm thickness as the ABS roll come in 22mm and 42mm. They will required to chamfer off the access to give a quarter round edge. However, if the ID is innovative, they can always design in such manner to join ABS together with maybe stainless steel strip in between; that will allow no restriction to thickness of the edging. PM me if you have any problem. I should be able to give you some suggestion

Your ID is not telling you the truth. In maths there are addition and subtraction. The norm is to construct door frame and get inner measurement of frame to construct the door. However, in your case, the frame can be tailor made by adding back the allowance need to door size. The work may be a little more but still there are cost saving. ID usually want easy work out and swing for more $$$. You should insist him to do it. PM me if you have any problem

Ard $400.00 dependent on the material and design.

You can request your tiler to follow the wall tile colour which is to break PVC edging to match the adjoining wall tiles. There are many color to choose from. Otherwise, you can also request your tilers to add stainless steel inlay to finish up the corner. This is the easiest way to match but your tiler may request you to pay slightly more if they are greedy but within $50 per strip of inlay is reasonable as the inlay is not cheap and the work will be slightly more than normal

L-Box are light holder which usually used for boundary of room or to terminate section of the drop ceiling. The cost is computed by per foot run. False ceiling is a spread of ceiling over a area drop from the existing slab or in layman term - concrete ceiling. The cost is computed by per square foot

I don't understand why cannot hack. For 30years rubber tiles might be tough to remove and hacking is the best solution to it. If you are doing only for bedroom only, then the floor level cannot match the living area. Hence, it is prefer to hack all. PM me if you need to know further

I do partly agreed with your ID. When he say scatches immediately after installation is rrdiculous. But truly any scatches will be more obvious than the mat ones. Even a finger print is visible in all direction, hence you require high standard of maintenance

Firstly, in the market, not only ABS and veneer trimming exist. Other like solid wood bidding, laminate edging, aluminium, stainless steel profile, etc. Much dependence on the usage of your cabinet. Like kitchen cabinet, not advisable to use veneer or wood bidding as water is the consideration. aluminium and laminate give sharp corners. laminate is the cheapest but peel/chip off after reckon used. stainless steel profile is most ideal for most usage but too modern look.

Don't ever use lacquer finish on kitchen cabinet as kitchen is a dirty and wet place. Lacquer finish is only on veneer which give cosy and natural finishes but not for wet area

Truly to refurnish the exterior cabinet is not worthly as the cost is about 60% of a new cabinet. But for those who have budget constraint, and willing to compromise on work, this may be a good solution to bring cost down. But bear it mind, most carpenter do not like to do such work as most work have to carry out on site. Yes, it is possible to do a white board laminate to a wardrobe door. Even possible if you want it to come with magnetic white board. There are other alternative to do white board too, like using a glass as white board, the advantage is easily clean when some white board leave stain after some time writting on it or if you have used the permanent marker instead. Glass do not have such problem

Firstly, the drawer unit should not be too big so that you are not able to put too heavy item in it. The drawers' depth cannot be any deeper than the depth of its cabinet, so I do not see the problem of hazardness. If you worry, request the carpenter to use heavier, thicker and solid ply for the base, which it must be so as it is mobile and on castor. PM me if you need further suggestion or recommendation

I read the hear see comments and remark from forumers here and think most were mislead by their ID or it could be the designer do not have sufficient knowledge on the material. Polykem has a very smooth surface than PVC. Its cost is slightly more expensive than PVC. Even though some people used polykem for interior of cabinet but still the edge (thickness of the wood) is still using PVC; so it is still not 100% polykem. Generally, Polykem is a normal ply coated with polyeurethene material. It is not for use of interior of cabinet but use for spray paint finishes as it has a smooth and prepared surface ready for used. Just wonder why no ID recommend spray paint finish for carpentry work? sigh... where are their innovation? ID uses this tactic to swing their sales as polykem has very smooth surface than PVC. However the cons are as follows : a. Polykem has a smell hardly detected by human unless in large quantity. These smell invite insect esp cockroaches. b. Polykem turns yellowish after some time especially come in tact with water. c. Polykem discharge powder which almost invisible to human eye. A simple experiment is to use a fine sand paper or even a paper to rub the surface few times and you should be able to see the powder. Can you imagine those "polykem" kitchen cabinet which store their utensil, and that the powder drop onto the utensil and not treated before using? You should have a "Jia Liao" dishes.

Pointer 1 : there is no cheaper alternative if you are looking for blum track or its alternative as the price range is around there. The good thing is that these brands of track give a soft closing that do not bang. The slow closing motion near end will protection the door hinges and drawer cover. However, there are alternative method to the same effect; ie go ikea to buy a those suction pad with 1 hydaulic pump attached to cabinet and a rubber pad to door or drawer. When the pad touches the pin of the pump, the system will pull the door/drawer inward softly. Pointer 2 : Other the the blum system, drawer track are sub divided to full extension or normal extension. The different is full extension enable the drawer to fully open without part of the drawer remain within the cabinet. Usually, full extension is heavier duty than the common one but certainly cost slightly more.

Allow me to correct your ID's Comment. Door can be constructed with solid ply but much dependence on the method the engage to join the pieces. Ask you ID what are classic door made from; for your info it is MDF which is a kind of man made ply mixing saw dust with adhesive to form panel. If MDF can use to construct Door, Ply wood can do more. I agree that the external work for all carpentry work will cost the most in all carpentry work. Veneer may not be the more costly than laminate. Cost of laminate sheet is between $20 per sheet to $300, but generally most carpenter will use laminate which cost around $50 to $60. Whereas, veneer ply is betwen $17 to $500.00. Nyatoh is the cheapest and commonly used by carpentry esp for staining to walnut clear for used in zen design. Other common veneer used are cherry, teak, ashwood, maple etc. The most expensive are bird's eye which the gain resemble many bird's eyes and it reflect lights when dark, a very rare veneer. The work itself require to coat with commonly lacquer, but can be vanish or a more expensive coating is PU. However, there were not many skill carpentry painter in the market nowadays esp the good one, hence most carpenter and ID will tell customer it is more expensive so as to swing the customer to use laminate instead. Just for good comparison, laminate finishes is like laminate flooring and veneer is like parquet and it is a natural product which give a warm and natural feeling.

Have you check if they are HDB registered contractor?

Fully agreed with ya. I can only feel comfortable working with HDB registered contractor directly. I believe HDB do not set up Registered contractor scheme for nothing. In my opinion, I don't mind to pay for design fee if I like the design but still insist a HDB contractor to do the work. Seen too many cases of non HDB registered contractor run road, or close down then start another company (huan tan bu huan yao), and home own got no where to resolve their problem

When laminates "pop up" it will be a messy work to strip a big portion of the installation and that the problem may return again. Laminate flooring is commonly known as float floor as it is resting only on the floor but not bonded to the floor. Hence, popping problem is a "time to com" problem, and I hate the hollow sound when we walk on it even when it is new. Unlike the parquet floor which is directly bonded to the floor. rectification work can be localised. As for termites problem, you can always ask the contractor to do a termite treatment which can last at least for 5 years. Water problem is individual usage and maintenance liao but generally, parquet flooring is water resistible unless it is soaked in water for few hours. In my opinion, the commonly used 50 X 250-300 parquet's cost is quite close to laminate flooring and I'm in favour of parquet as it make the room more cosy than laminate floor as it is natural product. Even after few years, I can revanish the parquet and it will still look new, where laminate floor cannot compare to

Sure they can afford the 11 expensive chairs, and frequent renovation, else how to attract expensive customer. You should know what I mean..Lol 18K for 3 rm flat seems reasonable price but are you comparing durian with cherry? Many contractor and ID firm can guarantee bank loan too but to what amount that's all

I think you should not sign any contract under Eagle Design as they are not HDB registered contractor. You are liable for all work done even though they might have ask Hoon Hoe to apply work permit for them. You may not aware to what extend of work scope the permit is extended to; perhaps only a small portion of the work contracted. However, if HDB realise any other irregularity, you are still liable as Hoon Hoe can always claim they did only part of the work and not the unauthorise one. You cannot sue them as the full work scope is not sign with them which only Eagle Design contracted them. Legally, Hoon Hoe is not binded to you but only eagle design. If you think they are cheap and good, you can insist them to sign the agreement only with Hoon Hoe so as to bind them legally. HDB don't introduce Registered Contractor Scheme for nothing. On the other part of your aspect, I personally did not hear about neither Eagle design nor Hoon Hoe, but believe there are still many cheap and good but small contractor in the market. Just be very sure that you engage a licence contractor. You may want to PM me should you need my recommendation

You should not sign the contract with Eagle Design as they are not the licence contractor. Under HDB ruling, you should be engaging licence contractor to do the work. HDB will go after licence contractor for any unauthorise work, else the owner normally get double if you did not engage the licence contractor. The fine is as high as $5K and you are still required to regularise any unauthorise work. Besides, many unlicence contractor could have printed their"friends" licence and claim to be associates. When problem occur, they will disappear and you can't sue the licence contractor as you did not enter into contract with them. Unless, you can check or ask eagle design to prove the relationship between; ie both the sharehold or director must be the same in both company, else legally you cannot do much. Besides, I would suggest you to check few more quote before deciding and compare between objectively. Looking at the raising cost of material and labour, no contractor will want to do a losing business. Hence, just be a little wary of cheap contractor. If you need help, please PM me.

Anyone hear of this company before? I got a few quotes from ID firm to contractors which took up quite alot of time browsing the contracts. I was recommended by few of my friends which all their house were done up by De Palmco Pte Ltd. The company seems to be on a silent side for their marketing but business seems good. Last that I knew the company was the boss himself manages all projects by himself including Design and planning, everyday site visit etc. All my friend said that he is very helpful and on the ball and keep his promises, very prompt to delivery. I was brought to view few of his work done and in progress from HDB to landed property. He even told me bring me to view tiles and toilet accessories and told me no obligation; seems very sincere. Quite pro with his work as he can pin point exactly how to work things, and all the technical aspect with pros and cons. Amongst all quotes I've seen, I think I'm quite comfortable with him especially all my friends claims the company is very good not only in workmanship, delivery but also price are reasonable and all the work is done in-house; ie the company has his own tile laying man, carpenter, electrician, plumber, air con, painter etc, practically they don't sub out any work to others - would you believe it? I see it with my own eyes when visiting the sites. Anyone know any company who has the same capability that is comparable to this? Please PM me for more info before I make my decision. Thank you