Hi Ocheeeng,

I will be using using round downlights for mine, but for common rooms i'll be using those rectangular ceiling lights as well.

I think the long side should be orientated parallel to the room's long side, but if the room is square i guess it doesn't really matter.

your id is very creative!! i especially like the pink color storage bay beside the window in mbr...can store tings and can lie there..so cooL!

the shoe cabinet is lovely too!

Hi Ocheeeng,

I will be using using round downlights for mine, but for common rooms i'll be using those rectangular ceiling lights as well.

I think the long side should be orientated parallel to the room's long side, but if the room is square i guess it doesn't really matter.

Saw your reply too late

But what you said is what the electrician uncle said

Thanks!

your id is very creative!! i especially like the pink color storage bay beside the window in mbr...can store tings and can lie there..so cooL!

the shoe cabinet is lovely too!

Will tell him your complements. The laminates we chose are not the same as the 3D.

Hope they turn out well...

Work done on 11 May 2009:

Install lights

Simple 32W light (daylight) in storeroom

2x26W PLC (daylight) in kitchen (need to patch up hole nearby)

3 sets of 1x10W PLC (warm white) at passage to rooms

3 sets of 2x13W PLC (cool white) + cove lights (4 3ft T5, 2 2ft T5) at dining area

12 sets of 2x13W PLC (cool white) **** area

Ceiling lights (3x36W daylight with IC to toggle 2, 1, 3 tubes) at guest room and study room

Ceiling light (3x36W daylight with IC to toggle 2, 1, 3 tubes)) at MBR

3 set of 1x10W (warm white) at MBR bay window

Note that the worker cracked the false ceiling when pushing the light in...need to touch up again

Now that the lights are connected, the 2-way switch with LEDs are working

Tip 1:

If you have idea on the placement of PLC light especially in toilets, kitchen, yard etc, you may want to mark with pencil on the ceiling.

Or mark them during discussion with foreman.

If not, what you communicated with the foreman may not be communicate to the workers and they assume where you want them to be

Tip 2:

If unlucky, the lights you purchased from light shop may not be all working.

For example, out of my 16 sets of 2x13W PLC downlight, 3 tubes got problems and 1 ballast got problem.

Luckily, Homefix is just downstairs and I can easily get replacement for installation.

I go down light shop for 1-to-1 exchange when I am free. The extra will be kept as spare for future.

Edited May 11, 200917 yr by ocheeeng

Work done for 06 May 2009:

Deck **** room

Very nice deck at your living room, can you share with me how much does it cost to do the deck? Am thinking of doing one for my balcony too, thanks alot.

Very nice deck at your living room, can you share with me how much does it cost to do the deck? Am thinking of doing one for my balcony too, thanks alot.

That area is not a balcony. It is a planter that has a drop of 60cm.

The quotation for this item I got from various companies:

InnerView (my contractor): $1500

Rezt & Relax: $1780

Weiken: $950

nice to see the lightings up already!

any reason of using cool white in living/dining but warm white in passageway?

I was thinking of using all cool white, but i heard cool white will turn whiter as time passes, is that true?

nice to see the lightings up already!

any reason of using cool white in living/dining but warm white in passageway?

I was thinking of using all cool white, but i heard cool white will turn whiter as time passes, is that true?

Reason: Lazy to think harder?

All my 1x10W PLCs are warm white except for the WC (daylight) in the yard.

PLCs are easy to change...if don't like, buy bulb to change

Will go down again to take photos when the sun is down. Then can see the true colors of lighting.

Edited May 11, 200917 yr by ocheeeng

Another useful lesson I learnt today:

Normally when you buy square PLC downlight, the ballast will be fixed to the top of the PLC casing.

If 2 tubes, there will be 2 ballasts.

Ballasts are quite heavy.

My electrician removed them from the casing before installation and placed the ballasts on the false ceiling.

This was to remove weight on the casing.

Edited May 11, 200917 yr by ocheeeng

nice to see the lightings up already!

any reason of using cool white in living/dining but warm white in passageway?

I was thinking of using all cool white, but i heard cool white will turn whiter as time passes, is that true?

Hi xherion,

I took some photos of the round downlights at my old place (8 years old).

The downlights do not have glass covers.

Only daylight and warm white types. No cool white.

Lighting pictures taken at night:

(Not much different from the ones taken during daytime. Poor photography skills at work)

Passage way lighting in living and isle to bedrooms

The 2-way light switch at foyer (main door) is 4 gang.

1 for foyer (1 set of 2x13W cool white), 1 for dining PLC (3 set of 2x13W cool white), 1 for living room passage (3 set of 2x13W cool white, as seen in photo above) and 1 for isle to bedrooms (3 set of 1x10W warm white).

Living room light groupings

Nice place and 3D picture

I like your dining room,

Waiting for your next photo. if you need painting for decoration you can contact me

I will give affordable price

Sudden work done for 14 May 2009 (1 day ahead of schedule):

A set of identical suspended shoe cabinets...first thing upon entering the unit

View from main door

View from dining area

Close-up of green laminate