I stand corrected, but in the future if for some reason you need to subscribe to two or more ISPs on fibre (e.g, SingTel & StarHub to deliver different services to different rooms), this might pose a problem unless you have two or more Cat 6 cables running from your utility room to the place you put your router. But I guess this is unlikely for the majority of users.

Actually this is the main reason why I insist on running my own fibre from the TP in the utility closet to the TV console area so that I can place my ONT there but it's more for the possibility of subscribing to internet and pay-TV with different providers. Like you said, this should be inapplicable to majority of users and more of a nice to have.

Just ordered 2 of these patch panels each from Amazon along with the Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 crimping tool and connectors. I decided to spend a little more on the proprietary crimping tool and connectors instead of the standard ones as I will be crimping plenty of cables and these are definitely easier on the noob.

TRENDnet TC-P12C6 12-Port Patch Panel - Using 2 of these instead of a single 24-port version to reduce the width of the shelf required to house them and also because my switch's ports come in a 12 ports by 2 rows configuration

TRENDnet TC-P08C6 8-Port Patch Panel - 1 unit for the study desk and another unit for the TV console instead of using multiple faceplate terminations

Edited March 21, 201412 yr by mavicaste

Just ordered 2 of these patch panels each from Amazon along with the Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 crimping tool and connectors. I decided to spend a little more on the proprietary crimping tool and connectors instead of the standard ones as I will be crimping plenty of cables and these are definitely easier on the noob.

TRENDnet TC-P12C6 12-Port Patch Panel - Using 2 of these instead of a single 24-port version to reduce the width of the shelf required to house them and also because my switch's ports come in a 12 ports by 2 rows configuration

TRENDnet TC-P08C6 8-Port Patch Panel - 1 unit for the study desk and another unit for the TV console instead of using multiple faceplate terminations

Wah, your stuff very Hi-tech leh. lol

Can get you become my shifu a not?

Wah, your stuff very Hi-tech leh. lol

Can get you become my shifu a not?

All this structured cabling and self termination is new to me as well, just decided I want to go down this route and "force" myself to pick up some knowledge.

i read somewhere in this forum uses cat 7 cables. have you considered that ? my contractor only provided cat 6.

I had lay the structure cabling. Just another stupid questions har, from my room data pt, anyways to split it into 2 PC?

think if you get a switch in your room will work. maybe a small 4-port switch will be sufficient

i read somewhere in this forum uses cat 7 cables. have you considered that ? my contractor only provided cat 6.

Cat7 is meant for 10 Gigabit networks and I really don't see it becoming mainstream for consumers within the next 4 to 5 years.

Having said that, Cat6 is still capable of supporting 10 Gigabit networks if properly laid and terminated but at shorter distances of course, though it is unlikely to exceed the recommended 37m in the worst case scenarios for HDB homes.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable

Edited March 24, 201412 yr by mavicaste

I had lay the structure cabling. Just another stupid questions har, from my room data pt, anyways to split it into 2 PC?

think if you get a switch in your room will work. maybe a small 4-port switch will be sufficient

Yes, using a switch will be the most cost efficient and straightforward solution.

Thanks for both of you!

Never knew such switch exits till I google it just now. lol

Cat7 is meant for 10 Gigabit networks and I really don't see it becoming mainstream for consumers within the next 4 to 5 years.

Having said that, Cat6 is still capable of supporting 10 Gigabit networks if properly laid and terminated but at shorter distances of course, though it is unlikely to exceed the recommended 37m in the worst case scenarios for HDB homes.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable

thanks for that

We had the air-con vendor come in yesterday to run the piping and I have to say their workmanship is really good as reviewed by the other forumers. They also cleared up the debris and waste after the installation was done.

The position of the units and routing of the trunkings were straightforward for most of the rooms except for the living room. Due to the design requirements of L-boxes above the sofa as well as the other side of the wall in the study, we could only place it on the beam above the passageway entrance. This should be a more or less standard practice for most BTO flats with similar passageway layouts. As the study wall is hacked right up to the beam, the only way is to route the trunking just above the household shelter and bathroom doors. If we choose to conceal this trunking in the passageway, the only feasible solution is to lower the study wall from the beam and to drop the false ceiling all the way down to the height of the doors. This will cause the passageway to appear narrower but we should be able to live with it.

Material and Tools

Living Room

Study

Bedroom 1

Edited March 25, 201412 yr by mavicaste

Main Bedroom

Main Bathroom

Air-con Ledge

Hi mavicaste, care to share your ID and air-con vendor?

my email is cioe@live.com

Hi mavicaste, care to share your ID and air-con vendor?

my email is cioe@live.com

Check your email.

For new forum members and readers who may wish to request for any contacts or additional information in the future, I would like to take the opportunity to point out that these forums have a private message function available.

Edited March 25, 201412 yr by mavicaste