w7_lee

I think all HDB door frames are now made of metal. But shouldn't the new ones be bi-fold doors? Anyway, I would suggest that if you wash the toilet floor, wipe the area at the foot of the door frame to remove most of the water. If you wipe it, it will just be damp and the air will dry it up quickly; minimizing rust. If you let it remain wet, it will take a long time to dry and rust will appear.

Some of the water efficient tap has an added piece of membrane/button (with a few holes on it). It acts to add more restriction at the opening so that the flow rate is decrease. This piece of membrane/button can be remove (for some). Most tap opening can be unscrew to remove the timble. That is where they install it. You might want to check it out. I actually bought a tap from Malaysia (non water efficient type) just for the water machine because slower flowrate does not save water (in the case of washing machine) and takes longer to wait for it fill up to the machine requirement (resulting in more electricity used). But the rest of my house, I use the water efficient taps. Good Luck.

You will need to trace the pipe and find out if there is a valve installed somewhere along the piping. Will be hard if the pipes are conceal in the wall. But could it be that the tap (that the water machine water-in hose is connected to) is the water efficient type and is limiting the flow?

The picture showing the top edge is not so clear but I believe there is silicon in the U channel holding the glass. The bottom is fine. Shower screen are normally held this way too. But I think they cut the glass height too short. I would think more of the top should be inside the U channel. As long as you don't push hard on the glass, it'll be safe.

Since you've tried re-connecting in different ways and still the same, it's probably like you've describe. But just in case the switch is faulty, you should ask the shop that you bought from. If it is not normal, maybe they will give you a replacement.

Did you connect your incoming L & N to the correct terminal on the switch? Maybe you have connected the 'incoming' L & N to the outgoing terminal on the switch, so there is always current passing thru' to the LED.

Also not forgetting you will need a drain pipe for the water.... which is not available in a store room. And if the water proofing is not done right, your downstairs neighbor will have problem with leakage.

Not sure if it is worth patching. I think how they do it is to fill the gap with the same material, wait for it to dry and then re-surface/grind the top again. You get a fresh new layer on the top surface. You also get powdery dust all over the kitchen. But if you are still renting out, maybe apply some silicone (to prevent water seapage) and forget it.

It is personal but I do not like to use silicon for wet area. I don't think there is a silicone that will not grow mould, maybe lesser but there will still be mould growth. But you can try it out (with the water proof silicone) as it will be easy to DIY. If there is mould growth, just use a pen knife and cut them out, then replace with the white cement.

In engineering, corners are 'stress raisers', as cracks will form easily at these places. So sharp corners are usually avoided. Notice the windows on airplanes are curved at all 4 corners.... same reason. Anyway, solid top can patch when crack... at least that was what my contractor told me when I did mine 6 years ago. But it is a small job, so not sure if any contractor is interested.

The sink is supported by the 2 brackets below it. Probably due to overloading, the bracket angle has change a little and it had not been fully supporting the sink's weight, so the white cement was the only stuff holding it and with time, the cement cracked off. The crack is only cosmetic. To DIY, just go neighbourhood hardware shop, buy some white cement and patch up the gap again. Silicon also can but try not to use silicone because this is a wet area, so with silicon, you will get black mould real soon. For contractor, check your town council website, there is a recommended list. Good luck

kappa is right, can easily find wooden pallets at warehouse area. Right now, outside my office got 3 wooden pallets that's been there for a week but building cleaner lazy to dispose.

Home-Fix has a workshop, link below. http://xpc.sg/make/

At some point in writing your article, I think you got too agitated. In summary, at the present, you have good water pressure through out your home except your kitchen sink. So the problem might really be your kitchen tap. Try a new tap... a cheap one from a neighborhood hardware shop will probably cost $60 and buy those with lesser water saving ticks. You can also check your piping. At my home, my main incoming pipe goes straight to my toilet but somewhere along the route, it T off to the kitchen. Make sure there is no valve along the pipe going to your kitchen sink (besides the one below the sink).

My friend had want to polish the marble in his living room too some years back but bedroom floors was timber strips. His contractor (whom is his cousin) discourage it as polishing uses a lot of water and will seep into the bedroom floor and damage the timber strips.

Learn from SAF days

It's fine.... AC chemical wash people also use 'some sort of detergent' and water. Just don't spray into the electrical/electronic compartment. But one thing to note is that there will be dirt that will drip down the fins and flow into the AC drip tray (evaporator)and/or into the condensate pipe. These dirt will clog the tray and drain pipe if you do not flush them out.

If you do not dispose solid stuff into the sink, then it's probably due to build up of grease (for kitchen sink), then go to normal supermarket to buy drain declogger (drain opener). It's a liquid solution, just pour into the sink, let it sit for a while and then flush with water. Some people recommend DIY declogger using baking soda and vinegar. If you dispose solid stuff down the sink, benetay's recommendation is correct.

Tiler Seng is right, you should check your neighbour's place and bring the SC installer too. My MBR also has such an opening but I had not use it. Still covered with wooden panel (original HDB). There is no metal beam.

Back in August 2010, I posted about what I did regarding this topic. It's been 4.5 years now and I have not done anything since 2010. This is the first time I am attaching pictures, so hope it works. Below is the condition of the silicon strip that I had installed 4.5 years ago. Hope it helps those who are keen to resolve the problem.

Some forumers post pics of their DIY work here. So there are some here that actually 'walk the talk'. Anyway, I believe Home-Fix also have a place (workshop) for hands-on people to use for their projects but need to attend their workshop class for familiarization of their tools/equipment (which is fair enough).