ucypmas

Ok for a moment I thought you bought somewhere here although I could not recognise the area outside your windows... This is a very good layout - 122sqm with no wasted space. Plenty of windows too all around...

Is your house at Lengkok Bahru ? The floor plan looks exactly like my current house.

Hi Would like to ask how do you do your lights design and how has it worked out in the house? Bright enough at night? Your rooms are very wide ~4m and wonder if the lights from the side can still reach the centre...

Usually they charge by unit cost... but bear in mind it also include lining up the wiring from the mains to the lighting / power point, wire materials labour etc. HDBs rewiring usually between 3-5k as summersann has indicated. If you want a lot of power sockets and have many little light points it can get expensive really quickly. Just for your reference Light point ~ $40 per point Light install ~ $8 per point Cable ~ $100 per point Heater ~ $100 per point Single socket 13A ~ $40-50 per pt Double scoket 13A ~ $50-60 per pt Air cond 15A ~ $100-120 per pt DB Board ~ $350-500 per board Ceiling fan ~ $70-80 per install Don't pm me for contact because I have none. This is from my various quotes by IDs/contractors. You can do an estimate yourself first in terms of your lighting / power points and see the cost and what people quote if it is in the ballpark.

If your flat is very large, usually things dependent on area will cost more - eg hacking, false ceiling, painting etc. Your tiling cost looks ok - maybe you can work out the sq ft of the toilets / kitchen (floor + walls) being tiled and check the psf. Anything below 6 psf would be good price, but they never said what type of tiles they will give you. Kitchen cabinet @ 110 pft looks reasonable. Materials also not specified so can also turn out to be expensive. What kind of study table are you building that will cost 2.2k? Buy from IKEA bro - can do it 4x over. No paint work? No other carpentry work? No electrical work? Wait until you ask them to install extra sockets or light switches - sure kana kuto.

My own preference would be to keep the cash and invest it - if you can find the opportunities. Or use it to build more reserves for further security. Are you on a HDB loan? If yes then the cost of funds is pretty low so do consider the relative opportunity costs between using your capital elsewhere and recovering the interest from the housing loan.

Using EF washer (WF7100) and so far so good.

Lucky it turned out well. There are many other front loads on the market, you should make a trip to places like Best Denki, Harvey Norman, Courts etc to look at the model and ask around for reviews.

I am using the EF7100 7kg washer. Its my first experience with front load - so far so good. Large door makes it easy to load and unload, a wide variety of wash modes with and without heating (though I use only one), high spin speed up to 1k rpm, sturdy looking stainless steel tub and slightly different locking mechanism (press a button to open instead of pressing a lever at the door). Standard wash cycle takes about 2.2 hours and comes out is quite clean. Only downside so far is that the spin dry cycle is somewhat noisier than the top load at my parents house (Toshiba). Got it for 580 from Everjoint Electrical at AMK. Its super cheap compared to other machines within the same category/specifications. Their price is also competitive price compared to other shops carrying the same model. I initially wanted to get an Electrolux EW887F but converted to this model on recommendation from the uncle. On hindsight it was foolhardy of me because I bought the machine through the phone without even looking at it.

Your living room floor looks like its in a good condition. Is it marble? The bedrooms as well? It would be a waste to hack that off. The color is not that "orbit" so maybe you want to consider keeping it. Think its the colors too. You should take a step back and look at the place again and decide if you really need to hack up the entire house. Its easy to get carried away in the initial few months to want to spend whatever it takes to make it look good.

That is true. Box up areas in the long run will crack at the joints if not done properly. Usually if you use silicon to seal it will last longer but the board/plywood will warp over time and cause stresses and eventually cause hairline crack at the joint area. But with some putty its fixable.

The "shadow" can end up on the walls, ceiling etc. So that's why it seems to be projected all over the place.

I did soundproofing for one of my bedrooms. The purpose was more to keep sound in than out. My wife plays piano and french horn - we try to minimise noise disruption to our neighbours. Basic setup was we changed the windows to double glazed type, cost about 900+ for half length casement, 2.2m long. We also did wall partition for the entire room, ~2.5" rockwool + 0.5" gypsum board. That one cost about 1.8k. I painted the room myself after the construction to save cost - sealant + 2 coats of paint. Generally it works pretty well (even for keeping noise out). The only thing we did not do is to replace the door cos we din want to hack the frame as it'll damage the existing tiles.

Its not rubbish. If your floor is super shiny (like brand new polished marble), having a fan with light kit will probably cause some shadows. When the floor is very shiny, having lights from the fan shining on them will cause reflections back towards the ceiling and the rotating blades will then cast the shadow onto the ceiling, leading to the "shadow" effect. This happened at my MIL's place. My current place is marble as well, that's why we did not replace the fan with one that has lights on it.

I bought Hecom L-shaped sofa (the largest model) + 2 footstools from them. I had no problems with their delivery and quality. If you open their cover and look into the cushion, you will notice that they even included a cushion protector for each piece. Its small things like this that speaks volumes about the product. The only disadvantage is that their colour range combinations is restricted to the catalogue - no mix and match. For that price, use for 3+ years and throw you also "kio-tio" liao, even more economical than paying 2.5k and use for ten years.

Price is about the same (or slightly more expensive) but they will not "jiak" your paint.

Should be able to fit into the back seat of a normal sedan. I estimate the diameter of the roll is around 20inches and height maybe around 45 inches.

Those contractor hardware shops at Geylang sell the roll for about 80-100 depending on how much things you get from them and your bargaining... maybe if you drive a pickup and look more beng they'll give it to you cheaper

Its easier with cardboard flooring - you won't have to "hold back" when doing the painting with the flooring well protected. Usually there's some fine spray droplets when you use the roller on the walls. One full roll cost 80-100 bucks and enough to cover the whole house. I am not too sure of the status of your flooring - it can be quite difficult and tedious to scrap paint droplets off the floor so if the flooring is already done then it may be worth putting some protection on it before you start painting. Otherwise if its cement screeding and you're going to parquet it, then no need protection and just whack lar. Suggest that you chemical wash after all the dirty stuff is done.

There's a lock shop in IMM ard the 3rd storey (where all the furniture shop has moved to, near the bridal shop row) selling some multi-generation key thing that does the same thing. Cost about $200 for padlock and front door (excluding handle set). The keys come in 3 generation - 3 pcs for 1st set, 1 pc each for 2nd and 3rd set. Note that additional keys (if required) are fabricated at $20 each. Another shop in Jln Sultan quotes slightly cheaper, but also around $200. Normal Viro padlock + front door deadbolt lock is ~70 bucks if you buy from Geylang hardware shop. So is the lockset worth it? Only if you are willing to spend the money. And is it difficult having an additional key on the chain and an extra 10 seconds opening the door?

Simi chemical wash? Those are for floors (or tiled walls), not bare walls.

Those are construction dust. No need to wash - just a wet cloth and go over it if you have the time. Otherwise a duster will do. For the emulsion paints, please don't dilute with water esp the stronger colors. You will have a tough time getting it to blend evenly and when applied to the walls, will need additional coats just to make it look good. Stick to the original formulation and 2 good coats will probably do the job. If your original paint is not white, then you may need a base sealer coat so that you don't have to do 3-4 coats just to cover the base paint layer.

I was quoted ard 1.3k to re-varnish/color my 6m-long kitchen cab. The original color was a light, pine type of color which I wanted to darken further. In the end I cancelled the plans and painted the kitchen cabinet white with Nippon Bodelac myself - cost <100 bucks for paints and tools but took three weekends to finish.

I bought washing machine, fridge and standing fans from them. An uncle (Mr Lee) answered my calland he was quite nice when I spoke to him on the phone. He was ok even when I called again twice after to ask him more stuff.

Don't waste time lah. Just leave it.