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Dariusme

Help/Advise needed for reconstruction

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Hi ice, I just check with the designer and I was told will Retain existing structure. I am now checking with her on the 3rd and 3.5 storey that need to build up. Also the concern is more on the lesser space that I will have of rebuild, not too much on the cost itself. If rebuild the space to build is very limited compared to recon and buying that house does not make sense if rebuild 

 

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Hi ice, I just read your reply again and realize you mention the existing first and second storey flooring and anti termite cannot be redo? I was told recon everything can be redo except don’t remove the key pillar and beam 

 

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21 minutes ago, Dariusme said:

Hi ice, I just read your reply again and realize you mention the existing first and second storey flooring and anti termite cannot be redo? I was told recon everything can be redo except don’t remove the key pillar and beam 

anti termite is treated to the soil below the floor slab. if the house isn't torn down in the first place, there's no way to treat the soil under the floor slabs. can't possibly lift up the existing house, do the treatment and put back the house on the ground right? :P

whoever told you recon just need to retain key pillar and beam is just giving your the information like icing on the cake. there's much more to this basic requirements than just retaining the key columns and beams. if so simple, URA won't have differentiated between A&A, recon and new erection already.

Edited by snoozee
 

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13 minutes ago, Dariusme said:

Hi ice, I just check with the designer and I was told will Retain existing structure. I am now checking with her on the 3rd and 3.5 storey that need to build up. Also the concern is more on the lesser space that I will have of rebuild, not too much on the cost itself. If rebuild the space to build is very limited compared to recon and buying that house does not make sense if rebuild 

as mentioned one of my earlier posts, if you do a rebuild, you could throw in a mezzanine floor within the house to gain back whatever space that is "lost" from the deficient setback. the mezzanine floor can be up to 60percent of the house footprint which equates to about close to 70sqm (based on 115sqm foot print). this would be much better than having a house with the 2nd storey jutting out like a sore thumb from the rest of the house if you are to retain the existing setback and build another 1.5 storey above.

like what iceeyez mentioned, squarish layout is more flexible than a rectangle layout. in terms of cross ventilation, the air flow just need to go through the 10 to 11m of space rather than needing to be pushed through 15m to 20m of space for a rectangle layout

 

 

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Hmmmm... the designer gave me a estimated build in of around 4100 with mezzanine(600) considered in based on recon. If rebuild isn’t it going to be so much smaller than 4100?

Level1 1260, mezzanine 600, level2 1260, level 3 640, attic 350

 

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The new guidelines no longer limit mezzanine as a percentage of the floor plate. Just need to ensure that there is sufficient headroom.

Taking Base of 115sqm foot print for New Erection (Rebuild):

1st: 115sqm = 1237sqft
2nd: 115sqm = 1237sqft
3rd: 115sqm = 1237sqft
Attic: Estimated 60% of typical floor plate = 0.6*115sqm =  69sqm = 742sqft
Mezzanine: Estimated 80% of typical floor plate = 0.8*115sqm = 92sqm = 990sqft

Total: 5443sqft

And if cost is not a factor ?, than you can even consider building a basement/basement carporch. People tend to think of basements as dark dingy spaces but there are many ways to make it bright and naturally ventilated - through the use of airwells etc.

Basements don't require typical setbacks (aside from construction set backs), so you could easily add another 2000+sqft of GFA there for a total of 7000+ GFA :)

And yes snooze is right again, the designer seems to be only giving you the icing on the cake. In fact to even retain the existing non-compliant portions of the house, you cannot simply keep ONLY the beam and the columns and expect to retain the non-conforming parts of the house.

I can share with you URA's specific requirement for one of my previous projects:

"25 per cent of the existing floor plate comprising an integrated wing of existing columns, beams, floor slab and external walls which includes the non-conforming portion of the house, is retained. Please note that if the existing front wall is to be demolished/replaced substantially with a new wall, the minimum 7.5m front setback is required for the proposed new wall. "

This means that there is you cannot totally change the non-confirming facade to whatever design you want by just keeping the beam/column. URA will care that the walls itself is not simply all torn down too.

Something to keep in mind. 

 

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7 hours ago, Dariusme said:

Hmmmm... the designer gave me a estimated build in of around 4100 with mezzanine(600) considered in based on recon. If rebuild isn’t it going to be so much smaller than 4100?

Level1 1260, mezzanine 600, level2 1260, level 3 640, attic 350

the numbers for the various levels look funny with level 3 having such a small floor area.

also, not sure how the designer is planning to squeeze in a mezzanine within the current first storey and 2nd storey when the floor to floor height currently seems to be maybe 4m from photos. BCA requires a minimum 2.4m clear headroom for each room meaning the minimum 1st floor to 2nd floor height would be at least 5.2m after taking into account 150mm or 200mm as floor slab thickness.

 

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Guys, I have since moved on from this house and have bought another house instead. This time this house is regular shape, minus point is it’s side is west facing so I am looking for any ways to minimize or remove the heat as it has now become my pimary concern. Anyone has experience on any good suggestion or ways ?

118D7E35-270E-4B90-B973-F6C527E52074.jpeg

 

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congrats on your purchase.

your house is not exactly west facing. from your drawing, i'll assume it is a semi-d. not sure where is your front as you didn't indicate it on the drawings so can only assume it's facing north-west. for semi-d, your house will still get the partial west sun in the afternoons and evening (thought the sun position will shift throughout the years) and if your left side (non-party wall side) neighbour is built up, you will get some partial shade as well. But if your neighbour is still a single storey or not fully built up, do expect more sun to shine into the house especially in the late afternoons when the sun goes lower.

for windows, I think only way is to put good solar films after construction. but do design the house with cross ventilation such that air can pass through the entire length of the house be it via corridors or through the rooms. another important aspect is to have canopies for all the windows. the canopies will act as sun shades to block out part of the direct sun when the sun is higher and also allow the windows to be partially open during rain since the canopies will also block some of the rain (except if the wind blows the rain horizontally)

 

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Canopies are nice

fascina glass can be specced to be tinted or you can add it later

maybe you can avoid placing your beds next to this week but placing water heaters next to the west wall will be useful :)

 

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My bad, yes my house is semi d and is facing slightly north west with the west side not join to the other house. That’s the side that is hot hot hot haha. Maybe can do some tall trees or plants but my wife want a swimming pool. 
Anyone happens to have some reliable builder or designer to recommend ?

 

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2 hours ago, Dariusme said:

Are we allow to put canopies or shelter on top of pools to shade out the sun if I want to have a pool on the side setback?

assuming your pool is taking up the 2m side set back, you can have a 1m wide canopy from the building to partially shade the pool. of cos you can put in those retractable canopies later to shade the remaining 1m.

 

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