tantc

hi, keep your room airy and the smell should go down to a mild level within a week or so. There's no inherent danger in varnish solvent unless you try to sniff it in large quantity like a glue sniffer. Yes, to redo your varnish, you will first grind away most of the old layer. It's Berger Poly, I think you wouldn't need to test for toxin. Can always get your kids to sleep in another room for the next 2 weeks to be safe.... it will be like an adventure for them. good luck bro. Teck Chye

hi there, for simple ones... I guessed ikea is your best choice...... I saw a table meant for kitchen island which has wheels on them. if you really want to build one, you can get your materials from a h/w store, preferably one that is located in some industrial estate. Those are much better than your Home Fix or Self Fix. if all else fails, you can always buy at Horme

very interesting post.#1 but then again, you did asked nicely....

hiya, my opinion is that if you try drill into walls with this drill, you'll get more frustration than anything. You should always get a electrical wall powered drill for that. but if you get it for driving screws and drilling holes in wood, it will probably be okay, but not heavy duty usage. alternatively, you can get a pretty good Bosch for screws and wood holes and pay maybe $50 more ? Teck Chye

cool my friend, I just did a request join on the facebook group. It's good to have a group of hobbyists share knowledge. Is the above a guide rail for circular saw ? nice, where did you buy that ? I started off doing cabinets for the house as well. Learnt along the way. Now I'm playing with recycled pallet wood. Next project might be a double decker bed probably from 1" plywood.

add me to your list then.... pocket holes are very useful. I use them all the time... I bought the kreg mini via Amazon cos frankly, I hate the idea of paying so much for something that basically allows you to drill holes at an angle. Those kreg pocket hole screws are very good however. I bought those. The wood plugs are useless in Singapore weather. They expands because of our humility. If you want them to fit, put the plugs in a microwave and whack them for like a minute so that it would shrink a little. cheers

anyone consider a jetspray ? admittedly, it's a bulky item to store. but hey, no use of chemicals. And that's a good thing.

I didn't think I can come up with a fool proof design. Eventually, I changed to an induction cooker and also a ifra red cooker. https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=ifra+red+cooker&oq=ifra+red+cooker&aqs=chrome..69i57.8487j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8 With the maid being not too trustworthy, I'm afraid that a particularly strong gush of wind and blow off the flame while we are doing soup for example and no one would notice until it becomes a hazard. oh.. and a slow cooker for soup basically completes my flameless kitchen...

it is like a oily film or ? perhaps some photos...

hi, you should look for something call floor screed... which is meant for the floor. Google and you will know what I mean. your cement should be pretty thick, at least 4cm. I think if you just layer that much cement on top of the kitchen, you might break some building code. heh.... yeah, and it's not easy to layer as well, as pentiumpc said..... perhaps you should find a small area to try out before you go big bang.

hi, I think if you remove that metal cap, you would probably see the electric terminator. Make sure your unit's main power supply is off before you remove it. Better safe than sorry. I think extending the rod would be tough because you gotta hunt for a new rod and that's not easy. It's easier to run a chain down . That means, the Y connection that your current 2 chains are, will be shifted down. I wouldn't suggest just running a cable down without a chain and just let that cable bear all the weight. A chain is stronger and can be more flexible during windy situation. cheers Teck Chye

hi there, Clive, when you mention 'fund'... you intend to try this out as a business which will eventually bear fruits ? that's a nice ambition. I have been to XPC by homefix and saw their setup. They offer the cheapest workshop sharing concept I see so far. About $300 per month. Yeah, moonshine is right. Unless your have cheap space readily available, it would be a tough uphill battle. Equipment would cost a modest budget as well.... Buying table saw and planer, band saw, miter saw will cost quite abit. I think probably 6-7K to outfit a workshop for a start. okie, if you guys do see potential in this. it's always great to organise coffee somewhere and if anything, we can share some experiences. I see possible revenue coming from conducting courses in woodworking or other DIY areas. Start a email list ? mine is teck_chye@yahoo.com btw, I find it hard to attach photos to this forum. I'll stick a photo from my facebook album. Let me know if you guys can see the above photo. I have a modest workshop now utilising some free space. Got a rigged table saw, I bought a miter saw as well and I got a bunch of sander....

hi, do snap some photos and show us ya !

hi, did I read correctly ? barn door ? cool... if you're in Singapore, you can visit some hardware shop to ask. You shouldn't be approaching retail shops like Home-Fix or Self-fix. But hardware shops that supplies to contractors. I have seen roller tracks meant for glass. You can probably DIY them easily ...

IMHO, hand drills are not very useful. Buy a simple electric drill and it can come in pretty handy in many situation. I always prefer a reputable brand. I saw a drill from Bosch going for like $79 or $89 at homefix. don't be tempted to buy a cheap battery operated drill. They are often under powered and the battery is crap. A good battery operated drill will cost more than a electric drill. The drill bit is not categorised by power but different usage. Those used for drilling metal, wood, concrete or glass is not the same. You cannot use a drill bit meant for glass to drill wood or concrete for example. I don't think you need to be brand conscious when it comes to drill bit, here'a s photo of it. Remember how to shape looks like. https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=glass+drill+bit&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=r4lUVYuxNsu2uATJnIGoAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=955

actually it's not too difficult to fix this. First you would have to use your hands and grip the brackets and shake to test if they are still firmly attached to the wall. For whatever reasons, sometimes, the bracket is good and you do not need to remount your brackets..... then you have an easy job. Just stuff something hard between the gap of the basin and bracket and your basin shouldn't move around anymore. I hope you know what I'm describing. If you need to remount your brackets, you gotta check if your brackets are in good condition (not rusted till it crumbles). If you are lucky, you do not need new screw holes. You can just drill out whatever is in the old screw holes and remount. Otherwise, you will need new holes, slightly left right or higher or lower.

there's the right way to go about doing it and that's the 'shhhh don't tell, dun ask way'. if it's for showering, it's possible to connect a large stand in shower base which will collect and drain all the way plus walls that will keep the water out. But this will most likely bust your budget. for piping, it all depends on how far your storeroom is from your nearest water inlet and drainage. In my dad's old house, the storeroom is infact next to a toilet and this would have made it extremely easy (not that he converted his storeroom into a shower room). You could really go DIY and just have some form of a fibre glass basin and drainage yourself. I think the material would be at least $500-600 (Shower and basin fixtures). Labor would be expensive if you don't intend to do this yourself. The reno contractor would tell you that after the job, he would still have to provide warranty etc....

yes you need to buy a drill bit meant for tiles and glass. They have an arrow head shape. while drilling, drip water once in a while onto the drilling spot. It's pretty easy I must add.

that's really cheap... but sticking it vertical on the wall... would it stick well ? maybe you can try it out before going big bang... I got someone to do a feature wall using nippon momento paint... pretty expensive... but nice .... originally wanted to do wall paper but didn't feel it would last...

hi, haven't been here for literally several years..... found this old thread.... I have been pretty active in woodworking... hoped to post some photos of what I have done..... lately I have been using pallet wood for making stuff... It's not easy to get your hands on those ordinary pallet, but I have seen some pallets (from US I think) made from very very nice pine.... those are not easy to come by..... or at least it's not easy for me to get my hands on them..... if you drive around those industrial estate... you can get quite a bit. by luck, I managed to get access to a sizable space which I plan to turn into a workshop. I also went for the Home fix XPC tour and power tools 101 course as well. They have a very nice setup... hope that after 5 long years, we can stir up woodworking hobby in Singapore again..... I basically cannot find any youtube channel etc on woodworking from Singapore..... maybe we can start 1 ? Teck Chye

hi, maybe you can take a picture of what you mean by classic door. Or do you mean the original doors that comes with HDB ? I'm not sure what doors they install these days, but if you door is consist of good material, you can diy some other simple stuff like coffee top etc.... it really depends on your creativity. If your door are those lousy hollow type that HDB gave me (my flat is 14 yrs), you can chop it up for firewood.... then again, the smoke from the burning paint is probably toxic.... *smile*...

hi, most professional I see around don't use B & D. Infact, I kinda only find them at Self-Fix and similar DIY shops for end users. Used to own a Bosch drill, very reliable. Not all of them uses the quick release. They have those normal drill attachment as well. Teck Chye