watchthewaves

Interesting video, but contains an inaccuracy. He said that a dust mite is 0.3 micron. Dust mites are much bigger than that - about 300 microns long (but still can't be seen with the naked eye). Their allergens though are about 10 microns. He spoke of clearing 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns. That's the standard required of HEPA filters. If you want that level of cleanliness, you need a vacuum with a HEPA filter. Or one of those air cleaners with a HEPA filter. Many people get by without HEPA filters. However, if anyone at home is sensitive/allegic to dust, then it would be a good investment. The Miele he tested probably has one. The Karcher that ZondaR is talking about probably has a HEPA filter too, IIRC. The Rainbow will likely suck up dust mites. Will it retain it inside rather than blow it out again? I don't know. Maybe it will. The Karcher? It's powerful, it has a "beater" attachment that you can use when vacuuming the mattress, and it has a HEPA filter. I think it'll suck up and keep the dust mite in. Want to see dirty waste water? The Karcher will show that to you too. Another thing - a bed bug is different from a dust mite. It can grow to about 4mm long. The Rainbow can probably deal with something that big. Above all just my view only.

Let me put that in perspective for you. LED-LCD TVs will run at about full power simply because the technology works by the LCDs blocking the backlight/sidelight. The power consumption is from the backlight/sidelight. On the other hand, plasma technology produces images by light emission. So a fully lighted scene will be at about max power, and dark scenes will consume much less power. Let's just say on average, it runs at 3/4 power -- so with the models you mentioned, that's roughly double that of the LED-LCD TV. So that's about 150W. Say you watch 8hrs of TV every day. 150W x 8hr x 30days = 36,000W or 36kWh. At current rate of about just under 25cents/kWh, that's just over $9 more a month. I find plasma colours more natural and prefer it to the generally more vivid, pop-out colours of LCD. For the price of a movie ticket a month, I think that's reasonable. YMMV. And not forgetting that generally, plasma is more cost effective the bigger the panel gets. But you also need to be aware of where you are locating your TV. Eg, if you watch in very bright light, you're better off with LCD, as the plasma may appear washed out. That also explains why when you see plasma under the bright glare of the fluorescent light in the showrooms, you're never impressed.

I believe it'll be URA. But check with your architect or builder and leave it to them. Presumably, you've checked out the basic requirements or seen neighbours do it? FYI, you can read up some general info here: http://www.ura.gov.sg/circulars/text/dcdrhb_d0e4.htm And here's an extract from that link: 27 The conditions for redevelopment are as follows: (a) From Semi-detached to Bungalow or a new pair of Semi-detached Houses A semi-detached house with a plot size of 400m² and a plot width of 10m can be developed into a bungalow provided the plot size of the remaining semi-detached unit is capable of being redeveloped into a new bungalow (minimum plot size 400m 2, width 10m).

Although gas is cheaper than electricity, induction cookers are more efficient than gas cookers. Overall, there should be savings in the utilities bill.

Do a search, there's a thread or two here on solar power. In short, not worth it. If you're lucky, you'll break even on your capital outlay after 20 plus years, and that's without counting the interest element on your capital too.

So apart from Boo and Murthy, anyone else can recommend who you have used?

Yes, the beams and support for the wooden purlins and rafters. Galvanised? I was given to understand that in general, galvanised steel would be used for structures that are exposed to the elements (eg, outdoor or external parts), and that for covered structures, a coat of paint is sufficient. I suppose if one were to use galvanised steel, it would be over-speccing just to be kiasu?

I've seen mainly in offices these movable partitions to section off meeting/training rooms. You can try to google movable walls or partitions and see what you can find. However, bear in mind that you will need to give up a section of your room for these panels to collapse into when they are kept. The easiest, though may not look as nice, would be to have heavy curtains. Your decision might be influenced by how often you need to use the a/c within the smaller space. If very often, then the movable panels might be a better solution. If occasional use only, then the curtain could work.

As above. Roof will be clay tiles. "Normal" pitched design, nothing fanciful, no curves. Appreciate it if the experienced people could chime in on the relative pros and cons on using concrete or steel to support the roof. Is there any concern of the steel rusting? Thanks.

Sound like a really good price. I suppose a question would be where is the granite from. Eg, I hear that granite from China is cheaper but might be more prone to staining than granite from India (I have no personal experience with this though). And then, even from the same origin, there are different levels of pricing too. So if you can identify the country and type/model of the granite that you want, then go get quotes for the same thing from other shops. And finally, you need to be confident of their workmanship. Here's where talking to previous customers would help, if you can get in touch with them.

Are there degrees of tint? I thought was tint or clear only. Your concern with the heat is it because of lack of air flow, so heat trapped inside the house, is it?

Would like to hear whether you chose clear or tinted glass, and the reason for your choice. Thanks.

PM'd you. Thanks.

If it's not too much trouble for you, could you take a picture of the tiles you are using and post it up? Thanks.

Anyone has the contact details for the distributor of Hanex solid surface or Hanstone quartz surface? Please post or PM me. Both these brands are under the Hanwha group from Korea. Thanks.

What did you use for your driveway and what was the reason for your choice? Am considering klinker tiles, heavy duty homogeneous tiles and pebblewash. What are the pros and cons of these? What are their relative cost? Any other types of flooring to consider? Thanks.

Check BCA's Build It Right document for works not requiring BCA approval or permit. http://www.bca.gov.sg/WorksApprovalNotRequired/build_it_right.html It looks like adding a new balcony would need a permit. A first question though is whether your setback requirement would leave you enough space to add a balcony. Have you checked that?

What exactly is "treated" ply? Treated with what for what purpose? I'm interested in comparing ply with particleboard that has been treated for moisture resistance.

Hi jaskel, What is the substrate material you use for your kitchen cabinet carcass and door? Eg, some people use all plywood, others use MDF for door and treated chipboard for carcass. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each and what was the reason for choosing the materials you eventually went with? Seems to me that in Europe, for the quality cabinets, it is common to see MDF doors and treated chipboard carcass.

The detailed info on your ID as well as their factory contractor is certainly informative and useful to all those looking to do carpentry work. Can't help but wonder whether you are related/working for them. If you are, you should just come up front and say it. I personally don't see anything wrong with providing info on a product or service, even if it is your own (forum rules, if any, aside). But just that if there are any connection, that should be disclosed. If you aren't related, then I apologise for reading too much into your previous posts. Maybe there is a simple explanation for these posts that I'm not aware of: Mar 11: "WOW!!! What a great deal! I am getting my keys at the end of this year, I will do the same too." http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry623519 Getting quotes and confirming on promo offers now? If so, you are really one of the rare persons who plans so far ahead. Then, your "other ID" above quoted you $200 or $180pfr for full inside and outside laminate. Or was it $300? Mar 29: "I got a quote some IDs for $300 pfr for the same laminate inside and outside." http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry623520 Or maybe it was just a 3rd IDs quote? Interestingly, Johnchua23 also started detailed posting about the same ID and factory around the same time. Coincidence? Similarly, while I learnt from his postings, I wonder about the relationship again because he said: Mar 11: "Try this.. Got a quote for kitchen in full laminate finish both inside and outside at $110 per foot run excluding countertop. Www.blveblue.com Price include soft closing hinges, soft closing slides, stainless steel soft closing hinges for under the sink carcass ... This is great because normal hinges rust fast! I am visiting factory to check out." http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry617716 Apr 3: "I saw in the last Sat classifieds some IDs big advert... i think it is BlveBlue at Macperson mrt already offering full laminate finish, inside and outside at $100 pfr for kitchen with the soft close hinges and slides + stainless steel soft close hinges. And $200 pfr for wardrobe in laminate finish for both inside and outside. They say they don't use PVC solid plywood and only laminate solid plywood." http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry625425 So in March, he got a quote from blveblue, then in April, he saw a classified ad and "thinks" it is Blveblue? Maybe I'm reading too much into things, if so, I apologise. An explanation of the above statements would be nice though. Otherwise, I hope the relevant parties would be brave enough to just be up front about their interest.

I'm not so sure that I would accept their explanations just like that. I'm not in the business, so don't have any technical or expert knowledge, but I can't understand why a matte homogeneous tile would warp more than a glossy homogeneous tile. If there is warping, I would've thought it would occur somewhere between firing the tile and the tile cooling down. I don't see how the finish on the tile affects warpage. And if hipsquare2's use of the word "trim" actually means rectified tiles, believe matt homogeneous tiles can be rectified too. Uneven floor surface (lippage) could be caused by warped tiles, an uneven substrate (screeding not done evenly) or poor installation skills. So maybe you want to ask your contractor to explain more how the finish on the surface of a tile can affect warpage.

You can engage the gen con and he will sub-con out the works that he doesn't do. For electrical works, it'll be done by a licensed electrician.

Works not requiring BCA approval: http://www.bca.gov.sg/WorksApprovalNotRequired/build_it_right.html

Blooper, Posting in the private properties sub-forum will probably get more advice that you're looking for. There are some pretty knowledgeable and helpful regulars there. I'll just throw in my 2 cents here and hope its helpful. Presume you already know that you are allowed to go that high (eg, you've checked URA's master plan or you already see houses in the estate that high) and your question comes from a practical point of view only. Is it safe? Yes, if properly planned and built. To add another level, no one except a professional who has done all the necessary checks can properly advise you. One way to get a general idea is to look for a recently done up house in your neighbourhood that has gone that high, and simply ask the owner what he needed to do regarding the foundation. If you want specific info on whether your house has a piled foundation, the plans can be bought from BCA. The question though, is not whether there is an existing piled foundation, but whether the existing foundation in that soil condition can take what you would like. Even if there is an existing piled foundation, it may not necessarily be deep enough for what you would like to build. Like Synchron said, best to start talking to some architects and builders to get a sense of what's needed to be done.