nobrain1

LG uses alot of electricity for the non-inverter series. look at the btu and wattage consumption and compare it vs the others n u'll notice the difference. there is also diff in power consumption per unit when u switch on 1 unit vs 2units vs 3units. Energy savings labels are normally drawn based on 3 units electricity but how often do u switch on all 3 units?

Yah, u dun need timber door for all, normal solid naytoh door gud enuff for use is less than 250/door + install. Front door need better material type, so the enhanced solid naytoh type cost around $500, but if u live near the lift then bo bian u got to get the fire rated door which cost $800+ for 1/2hr or $1000+ for 1hr. if u see your house there got lift upgrading, wait for hdb to send letter cos they give u option to change door (main) will be cheaper and oso good one.

Hack and re-laying is normally better for wet areas. U may wanna consider these points as well 1. Floor to ceiling height requirement 2. Waterproofing membrane (u need to hack and screed this before laying over tiles) this is normally the reason why pple do hack and relay, cos waterproof membrane wears off. If it does, your downstairs neighbour will leak and if complain to hdb and found it's origin from yr toilet, u need to hack, waterproof and relay. Cost is 50/50 u and bottom neighbour, see mp get discount at HDB:50, u neighbour 25/25. $800 for 2 toilet is too steep, ceramic floor tiles for 2 toilets are around $600 hacking for 2 toilets inclusive of floor is around $500 these are full reno bundled prices, it is normally around these range.

Storage heater is meant for mondo hot water consumption. Before u do the reno of your house, u got to run piping, hot + cold or cold. If u wanna get storage heater then muz get hot+cold. So u want the hotel class one hor, u pipe hot water into bathroom taps oso lor. then when u on water heater u get hot water for whole house, including kitchen if you pipe it lah. Tap mixers in this case, oso got to get the hot/cold type le. but the thing is that if u leave the hot water too long, will oso turn cold so most hdb will go for instant heater, cos more cost savings. storage tank u muz get all the pple bath together to avoid wasting the hot water lol ^^

when u ask the sales, yes but actually hor no...they repackage the exterior finishing to be of different then say phase out the S series lor. Only exterior finishing change but interior is the same, see which exterior u like then buy lor.

wah epresso idea leh...but when hide like dat got to make sure good workmanship on the cabinet if not got lobang then may have xiao qiang there le?

yah, normally no contractor will wanna do it one de. they charge u $100 to put a white board u wan or not??? after that u will think !@#$ like dat oso can. i'm oso irritated by the lobang but my ID tell me that one cannot seal dead cos HDB structure and when pple buy they complain u got to tear it open de...so unless u do reno then ask yr contractor to help u do la, mine did for me FOC so i think it's not too much of trouble. Easiest way to solve it like the others say, put a painting over it 搞定.

shld be USD le...,even if not scam, by the time ship here may oso be buang le, like from iraq like dat...buy from mustafa even safer hehe....

that one is the HDB structure, it's normally there for the older flats corner unit. Just find a contractor seal up with a small white board can le. but one punch will open it again, so rem dun go and bang into it.

I went around checking the power consumption of Mitsubishi and Toshiba and Panasonic Fridge. Mitusbishi is the best value for $ of the three, for the 3 door model . Toshiba the bottom drawer for veggie is too small. Panasonic considering the inverter type u gotta pay is not much value for money. the best that i found so far is Fisher and Paykel. The 3 door model is 519kwH compare to Mit 700+kwH (Mit one is the normal type, their higher end folio series power consumption is slight lower at 600+ only, still lose out), but price starts at >1k+. I'll be going for the F&P though cos worth the investment

yr quote looks funnie oso.... "Open top for solid surface to mount sink -FOC" looks like added in to tell u give more freebies me u wanna noe where to slash yr quote is to get the quotes compare than ask them for the lower price of each item and see if they can match lor, but oso dun too hiong lor cos normally when quoting the ID will quote some higher quote some lower, but watch out for masks like the open top thing lor, it's one item that i seldom see in all the quotations here so far.

dun worry about the additional power consumption. washers consumes different power when washing, spinning and standby. best is grab the brochure (usually hidden inside the washing machine drum keke) if available or ask the sales person (doubt they can give proper advise on this) and yes depends on outlets, they may oso push different model.

hehe opposite IKEA is Anchor Point Its actually on the far left from where IKEA is, directly opposite Queensway Shopping Centre. Btw if u go to these type of neighbourhood shop and ask for quotes, they normally quote u based on cash/nets. they may charge higher if u tell them u wanna pay by credit card (cos of bank charges).

It should be more efficient. 2in1 is normally cheaper than 2 separate. actually individual preference. u like to drink soup first then eat main course or rojak? Lazy pple like me will go for one integrated. So long it don't clutter your house up can le.

the continental brand is more worth the $$ for front loaders.

1. Single Drum more convenient (dun need to transfer) 2. Dual Drum more efficient (mechanically and wash/dry wise) 3. Dual Drum take more space (width wise) 4. If u got a build in washer space make sure u measure the width!

mine 14 year, lowest quoted 28k Major works: Total hacking No false ceiling All grills & windows changed, normal type Homogenous tiles for entire unit (cos got dog in house) Replastering and painting Toilet all redo, no vanity, inclusive of 2 basins (no tap), MBR incl glass shower screen Plastering and painting Kitchen cabinet + plumbing and altering squat to sit toilet + wiring points (bare minimal) Change all doors Naytoh I dunno cheap or not but ID near my house so decided to settle for it. Btw i havent started my reno cos havent got key to flat yet (est in Aug) so i can't tell u workmanship and hidden costs as yet. but will get the ID to black and white everything given FOC

wah kaoz think of saving a trip to pc fair bought the 32LC7R finally at bestD for 1699 free HTS. then go to Mustafa they selling it at 1599 wif same freebies, 32LC4R oso on sale at $999 >.< there

Accordingly front load save more water and wash cleaner, but 1. u cannot add more clothes once u start washing 2 u muz bend up and down, not recommended for the older pple with back probs

ooohhh....tks. i actually am contemplating between these 2 models in courts tampines when there price are like $100 diff so am going to check it out during the pc fair see can get something cheaper or better freebies so dun need to get another HTS to save $$ hehe...

which one will you all go for? Think the LG model is brought in from HK. Can't decide which to get though...

sumthing i found while shopping for washing machine. 1. Currently majority of JP brands are manufactured in Thailand 2. Get those with stainless steel tub 3. LG cover is normally koyak and won't align straight when u cover > known manufacturing defect 4. LG protuding thingy and those alike inside the tub - Rem to check your clothing for stray threads else it might be wound into it. 5. Toshiba washing machine consumes high power W500+ compared to panasonic (can't find the local brochure online or in store but gotten the M'sia website one to compare) 6. International brands like Fisher & Electro compare saves more elec than JP (compare in terms of kg) 7. Remember to heighten your washing machine with rubber stoppers and don't level your drainage pipe else there some brands will think that water not draining and keep rewashing! (happens to Toshiba)

Hi, My CRT TV oso have waves in my bedroom. More apparent on CH5 & 8 while the others seems ok. From my observation when I was meddling around 1. Signal output boxes wear/tear quality. 2. Signal output boxes - Splitting the signal with a two way splitter deterioates the quality due to insufficient electric pulses 3. Get a better quality CATV cable (the antenna cable) - this one got oso different category. the thicker type the better i think the class it in R something and R5 grade or above is better or sumthing like dat. I tried changing these for a LCD TV and noises and waves are minimise tremendously. Hope it helps.

Hi, Can someone PM me the list as well??? Thanks ya!