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Depend on the angle you are looking at. All float glass have look greenish at certain angle (just look at the edge of the glass). But when you are looking directly into the glass, it is clear. Not too sure what you actually want and what your ID has explained to you, there is green tinted glass in the market which they look green even you are looking directly into it. Other colour are blue, tea and black

Overlaying is approved method by BCA. Popping tiles and water leakage is dependent on workmanship. A proper way is to assess the existing flooring if there is anything water leakage problem first. If No, then the tiler will apply another layer of waterproofing on existing tiles again before laying. This will ensure all tile joint are water proofed and act as secondary protection. Cement material must be right too. Use tile-on-tile adhesive to do the work but price is much more than normal cement

This budget can do a total revamp to your place and build a palace with it

If you just need to do feature wall cum cabinet, try to find this......... There is a type of very thick vinyl sheet (About 2mm) that come in roll form of width about 1.3m. They have texture and couples of designs like craftstones, brick work, sand etc. I saw this product couple of years back, but seems exhausted in the market. If you can find this product, ask your carpenter to use it like laminate and believe the effect should be the same as what you need. Can also be used directly on wall like wall paper

Thanks for compliment, but I know only pi-mao. Just saw the process in China during a business visit

This price confirm kana chop chop chop....... Relocation or new price is about the same ($90)

Tempered glass are normal float glass applied with hardenor for ovening. When shattered, the glass will not have so much sharp edges and they are in small chip like diamond. A safe glass commonly used. Laminate glass are glass-lami-glass combination. A very strong transparent laminated sheet holds 2 panel of thin glass together. When broken, it will still stay in a piece. Commonly used in Jewellry and pawn shop for their display unit. Price wisem this is slightly more expensive. Quality wise, there is no ground to compare as they are for different usage.

To be very strict, there are 3 kind of tiles commonly see in the market. Redbottle is right that most claimed "homogeneous" tiles nowadays are made from porcelain material call "bai gao ni" which need higher temperature to burn the tiles. Whereas, to add on to redbottles point, ceramic tiles are made of clay (material used to make clay pot) The true homogeneous tiles are still made from "bai gao ni" but were mixed with colours and other compound which the content is really homogeneous throughout. However, the design is really "homogeneous" (only spot of different colour or tone). You will never have fancy design like marble-like, plain etc. Since the usually homogeneous tiles esp 600 X 600 nowadays are made of "bai gao ni", except that they are printed with different design, it should still be consider homogeneous tile. Just for further info, you should also note that there are also few kind of finishes on homogeneous tiles. One is super bright which is very shining on surface, another is polish gross finishes which glazing is applied on tiles which make tiles very lasting, some gross finish maybe just hard wax finishes which may wear off after some time, semi gross is partly gross and partly mat but very rare in market, and the mat one. Cost differ according to finishes

You are welcome. Be proper than regret

Wall paper on existing wardrobe is not lasting. Peel off in no time. Cost of re-laminate is about 40 - 60% of a new wardrobe. Your gotta weigh between. But it will looks new on outside Provided the wardrobe is veneer finish, you can always stain the wood to a darker tone. If it is laminate, no way Very good idea. This is the cheapest way to "renew" your wardrobe and cn be DIY. Can be done on either laminate or veneer. Some skill and patience is needed. Use Oil-Base paint for finishing. Wood putty to apply initially to all holes, uneven, and crack area with scrapper and sand down before painting

Thank you very much for your encouragement. I'll love to share my knowledge as far as I know and I will continue if I can. But it is rather disturbing with this sort of forumer around doing nothing but accusing. We all don't mind people to read and learn here. Same goes to me, I've also read and learn alot from many forums. Don't you think this "mata" forumer keep slandering should be barred from here? My sincere apology to all forumers except vinlee for the words that I've used but he deserved and had proven himself to be a watch dog; always following right behind my a*** sniffing.... hahaha

I think what you are looking are those synthetic material that have a design of natural stone like. I think it is made of resin, that can be made into many form of design like craftstone, granite, marble etc. Not very heavy material but when you knock on it, sound like wood and relatively hard like fibre. If the description matched, confirm this is resin. This product current is not sold in Singapore. Commonly in manufacture in China and Taiwan. British claim to have such product but I think also imported from China or Taiwan. Resin can be laid as flooring material, polishable and it is waterproof. However, might have some ruling that restrict the material to come to Singapore as it is quite toxic during production. But very widely used oversea. Besides, hardly you can find contractor that have the knowledge to lay this material.

Maybe some ID will tell you the square design are trendy now. But practically, both shape have been in the market for long time liao. There isn't much to play with round shape. As for sq shape, you can either align them in linear or diamand layout (ie. corner facing corner). One caution you have to take note for square shape is that the electrician have to spend alot of effort to install them so that the lighting are align neatly. It looks ugly when there is a misalignment, when the round shape seldom have this problem unless the alignment is really out by alot

It is possible that water seeps from toilet behind the wall. This is a bigger problem then. The waterproofing is not proper or could be damaged. Did you do renovation at your toilet? What colour is your granite and the colour of the stain? If it is fresh water mark only, usually, a day or less will dry up. If it is stubborn, it could be consistence incoming of water or oil stain. I need more info before I can comments further

Yes its true. Can get the moderator to verify with Hot and tell every one here who Hot has engaged. Confirm that Vinlee is slandering and I've also reported the same to the admin. We shall see. All slandering forumer must be bar from here

Watch dog are just watch dog....do nothing but watch and bark like a nut

Whichever material that you are using, I think this is really out of range. Custom made kitchen cabinet using solid ply with laminate even ABS or stainless steel edging without worktop is in range of $80 to $100 only. Might have some additional if you include in pull-out basket or likewise accessories but still should not reach the range. With the size of your cabinet both top and bottom including granite top possibly come up to around $2700.00 and might come with some pull-out basket etc. Think twice

The chances of saving the bit of parquet below the cabinet is very slim as the cost of saving is not effective at all. Whereas, if you suspect the contractor might destroy part of the wall tiles to claim "repair from you might be possible. If this is your worry, suggest that you should stop their work immediately, take some photos and ideally, get a qualify person like surveyor or licence HDB contractor at least to witness the site and comment if it is newly hack away or it is from the past. They should be the best person to tell all this. Upon confirming the fact that it was damaged intentionally, I suggest you should terminate this contractor immediately and take necessary action to claim the damages.

Hahaha.........I think all the people saw your posting here will really give a very good laugh at. You really mocking yourself here. The truth will always be known by all the forumers here except you - a barking doggy dress in Joker suit......hahaha Hot298 maybe you should tell this doggy which ID company did you engage.......The forumer here would love to known your ID too. Let this Joking doggy keep the mouth shut and sit silent. He got no contribution but just a watching dog that's all

I won't advise you to do that. Is just like another ID asking you to show other ID's quotation, will you? By using 1 ID's quotation to sequeeze another is not a good proactise. So what if you ID A give you the discount lower than ID B, are you going to use that to show to ID B? There will be no ending to it. If you like ID A's design, then talk nicely to them and see how far they can discount for you. Every company has differrent costing, material, labour and workmanship, there is no 100% matching. This is their business and should be decently compensated for the work done. Remember, "you pay peanut, you get monkeys, you sucks them like vampires, you get vampines later." Get someone whom you are comfortable with, not only the design but the budget. Everything can neg. nicely, and everything is under offer and acceptance. Never sequeeze them below the cost.

What are you up to "Mata"? hmmmm. Are you a police officer, that's why you are job sick izzit? hahaha If you are not contributing to the forum, sit aside that's all, we don't need a barking WATCH DOG here....hahahaha. Even you want to be a watch dog, sit and stay silent....Good doggy, remain there.... Don't move....... Good Doggy

Usually, painting will be done after all wet work and first round cleaning before any installation of carpentry, lighting. air con and likewise. This is to ensure all corners are painted and protected and also that the paint will not dip onto any installation like carpentry, air con and lighting. Certainly there will be some dirty stain after the necessary installation, and that's why the final touch up is require before handing over and after final round cleaning. The touch up work will not be so major by then.

Wah.....show ya.......can I come also.......I wanna see live pole dance leh....

Since you already know what you need, a contractor should be able to handle your work. But looking at the scope of work, I think it is not worth while to keep the main structure of the kitchen cabinet. Cost could be easily 60% or more of a new cabinet cost. Though to you might feel that changing only doors, but what about the side, underside, top, and edge of the cabinet? Do you need to change these laminate? Besides, it will be easiler for contractor to construct the cabinet in factory and install at your place than to strip the laminate, and patch on site. Besides, measurement of doors are controlled by existing cabinet that make the work more difficult. Furthermore you are adding in a glass panel which may be affected by the ext'g structure of the cabinet. Your size of new hood and hob may also affect the cabinet size which make alteration tougher. As for plastering & painting over existing tiles is not adviseable as it may crack later. Generally, contractor will either advise you hack away and plaster in with paint finish, or spray epoxy material on tiles but tile line still visible, or you may also want to consider doing paneling like acrylic, stainless steel, or timber laminate over tiles. This may sound more sensible.

I still think even when you borrow from your sis is not enough. Suggest you should borrow from applefreak then, we invite all MJ kakis from here to play majong and also see how solid applefreak's table. We "Ka chang" for her and test test for her. 14kg not enough leh, should try heavier weigh as she very violent on MJ one. QC QC... at least 4 round