Hi FamilyGuy72,

my balcony decking is normal tile which looks like wood. It is from Hafary (tile code: Y1159M2016) and costs $4psf. I will PM you how much Mr Yeak charges me shortly.

Thank you very much for your detailed reply, Harriette. Cheers !

Think the only thing worth looking at is the Euphoria rain shower going at $888 (thermostat) and $788 (mixer) before 30% and excluding GST.

pardon my noob question. what does the thermostat means in the euphoria rainshower ?

Mr Yeak (my contractor) has offered us 2 choices for roller shutter.

Option 1 comes with acrylic panel. I prefer this, but I'm concerned that the acrylic may turn brittle and disintegrate after a few years in the sun. If anyone has used such roller shutter before, can you share your experience with me?

roller shutter 1 by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

Option 2 comes with slots for ventilation and light. I'm unlikely to get this as I think rain might come in during a heavy downpour.

roller shutter 2 by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

On a un-related topic, I have switched to Flickr, coz Renotalk now disallowed me to upload any more photos into my album. Flickr is so much easier to use. Should have switched earlier.

Edited January 14, 201412 yr by Harriette

pardon my noob question. what does the thermostat means in the euphoria rainshower ?

Hi alfredt,

the thermostatic rainshower can be preset at say, 36 °C. This means, everytime you on the shower, water will come out at 36 °C. You can still use the tap handle to switch to a higher or lower temperature, depending on your preference. I have read reviews in renotalk where users commented that the thermostat function is very "shiok". I have not experienced it personally yet.

For Grohe, the rainshower with thermostat is $100 more than the one without. So I think it is worth trying.

Hi solidsurface,

Thanks for your suggestion. I will explore further.

The new idea with bench sitting is a good idea. Below it if possible can add a shoe cabinet drawer. When you pull it out. the bottom for you to place your shoes.

Hi alfredt,

the thermostatic rainshower can be preset at say, 36 °C. This means, everytime you on the shower, water will come out at 36 °C. You can still use the tap handle to switch to a higher or lower temperature, depending on your preference. I have read reviews in renotalk where users commented that the thermostat function is very "shiok". I have not experienced it personally yet.

For Grohe, the rainshower with thermostat is $100 more than the one without. So I think it is worth trying.

Thanks Harriette

I "sua gu" didn't know such thing exist. wow

Mr Yeak (my contractor) has offered us 2 choices for roller shutter.

Option 1 comes with acrylic panel. I prefer this, but I'm concerned that the acrylic may turn brittle and disintegrate after a few years in the sun. If anyone has used such roller shutter before, can you share your experience with me?

roller shutter 1 by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

Option 2 comes with slots for ventilation and light. I'm unlikely to get this as I think rain might come in during a heavy downpour.

roller shutter 2 by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

On a un-related topic, I have switched to Flickr, coz Renotalk now disallowed me to upload any more photos into my album. Flickr is so much easier to use. Should have switched earlier.

I noticed the acryllic ones allows more light in so that the balcony will not be too dark when closed. However, depending on the material, it may or may not "disintegrate" easily.

Does the manufacturer provide any warranty against it ?

also if you are getting the motorised one, it may be worth to consider if it also have a "manual operated override" in case the motor needs repair and you need to operate the roller blinds.

Harriette

more pictures, please

btw, are you installating category 6 network cables in your house ?

Hi alfredt,

we are installing cat 6 network cables in our EM. In fact, my contractor and his electrician were busy laying wires and cables last week, and will continue to do so this coming week.

I will have 7 datapoints in the house:

- 3 upstairs (one per bedroom)

- 4 downstairs (one in the study and 3 for IP cameras)

Each datapoint has to be accompanied by sufficient number of power sockets, which will depend on how many devices you have.

The pink line in the picture below denotes the fibre connection running from the main door to the Termination Point (TP) in the living room.

Jan 19th - cable from door to living rm by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

The TP will be connected to the Optical Network Terminal (ONT) and Residential Gateway (RG). These 3 items (TP, ONT and RG) forms the "data headquarters (HQ)"of the house. All cables must originate from this HQ. As I have 7 other datapoints in the house, I will use a 8 port gigabit switch to connect these 7 cables to the RG. The 7 cables will be connected to the rest of the house.

We will hide the TP, ONT, RG, 8-port switch in the TV console, inside Compartment A in the picture below. My ID and contractor informs me that compartment A is big enough to hold all these devices, as well as a DVD player and an Xbox. If it turns out that compartment A is too small, I can place some devices in Compartment B. Sufficient number of power sockets have to be provided in Compartment A and B, to cater to all these devices.

The TV will be connected to the RG. Again, power socket is required for the TV. This will be in Compartment A too.

Jan 19th - living rm by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

The blue line below shows the fibre connection running from the RG/8-port switch to the edge of the kitchen and upstairs. The cables will emerge through a hole in one of the upstairs bedroom floor. From there, connection will be run to the other 2 bedrooms.

Jan 19th - cable from RG to upstiars by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

This is a photo of the upstairs bedroom's floor.

Jan 19th - cables emerge through bedrm 3 floor by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

As HDB does not allow "MRT tracks" to be dug in the wall to hide the cables and wires, we have to hide them in trunking. The trunking will be blocked by bookcases later, so it will look alright.

Edited January 18, 201412 yr by Harriette

One problem with setting up structured network cabling is the huge amount of wires. These are messy.

Below are the photos of my current ONT in my existing 5-room flat. Opennet was implemented a few years after we moved into our current 5-room flat, so we did not have storage built to hold these wires. We also did not have enough power sockets and have to use an extension cord. It is quite messy.

Jan 19th - existing ONT 1 by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

Jan 19th - existing ONT 2 by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

This is a photo of my current RG. It is left dangling in the air.

Jan 19th - existing RG by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

Right now, I only have an ONT and RG in my 5-room flat. We use wireless.

Edited January 19, 201412 yr by Harriette

Help ..... I need advice. As mentioned earlier, I will be storing a host of electronic devices such as ONT, RG, DVD player and X-box inside Compartment A of the TV console. I intend to use wooden doors, as depicted in the rendering.

If the doors of the TV console is shut:

- can I still get strong wireless signals from the RG?

- To enable the DVD player and Xbox to read the remote control, I understand that I will need to get an IR Repeater/ Extender which would repeat the iR signal from my remote via a small receiver to my equipment inside the TV console. See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRPdHyEUsos. Has anyone use an iR repeater before? Where can I buy one?

Jan 19th - living rm by Harriette_Tan, on Flickr

Edited January 18, 201412 yr by Harriette

Harriette, I'm so impressed with the tiling. I'm currently researching for my new flat and I plan to tile the entire place so tiling is so impt! Do you mind sharin Mr Yeak's contact? Also....Mr Jay does your design only right? What if we are handicapped in the design aspect LOL. Will Mr Yeak be able to come up with 3D drawings? ^^

Try this link?

http://www.mycarforum.com/topic/2296435-remote-control-repeater/

Harriete

Personally, I would try not to use the IR Repeater solution unless I really have no choice. Never tried, but seems like it may introduce other problems.

I use dark glass panels for the doors of my TV console. I was told the type of glass used allows IR signals to go through. So far so good. The slight translucency also allows me to tell if my devices are on or off, and to see the time on the SCV TV box.

It is likely that WIFI signals from the enclosed RG will not be strong in your furthest rooms. For me, I put another router (in bridge mode) in the network port of one of the other rooms.

harriete,

you also need to worrry about heart buildup in compartment A with so many devices running and generating heat ?