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Jennbunney

Reconstruction of original inter-terrace

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Hi!

Totally new to this forum but I've realised there are tons of experts on this!! It is my first time buying and reconstructing our home :)

Some details:

Type: Interterrace
Land: 1800sqft

Currently in it's original condition (1960s) 2 storey.

We're hoping to tear it down and rebuild to a 2.5 storey + attic. 

Could somebody let me know the process of how everything works? 

Some key questions

1) How do I check if a basement can be built? I read something about MRPL. Any way of checking this? Is it worth it to shell another 200-300K (Is that roughly what it costs?) for a terraced basement of a land 1800 sq ft?

2) What is the rough cost of reconstruction for the above?

3) Timeline, and how I could expedite things? We are hoping to move in before Christmas. Likely unrealistic I know. But it would be amazing to spend christmas at the new place.

Any tips for inter terraced from all you veteran home doeruppers would be super welcome!!

Lastly any affordable architect and builders contact welcome. 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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Looking for good contractors? Click here for your request

Get yourself an architect or builder

Go to PUB website and buy the sewerage interpretation plans to see if there’s any sewer running through your house

find a company to do a site survey so you can know what is the exact level your house is sitting on now. If you choose not to do this now, just walk around the neighborhood and see if any recently built houses are raised up from the road level or not. From this, you can estimate if your house is above or below the 4m SHD. Nowadays the agencies used Singapore Height Datum instead of mRL already. 
 

construction cost is about $350psf. So you estimate how much GFA you want and multiply by $350

time taken for a full rebuilt is at least 12 months excluding time needed for authorities approvals. After factoring in approval time, you are looking at at least 18 months

 
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You are amazing and I have seen so many of your posts around @snoozee! Thanks for dishing out all this advice!

Is $350 including architect and all the carpentry, sanitary works?

What's your opinion on a basement for an inter terrace?

Could somebody elaborate a little bit more on basements? Are they always allowed?

 

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$350psf usually does not include professional fees (architect and PE) as well as submissions to authorities. but if you can find a builder who can include everything in for $350psf, then it could be possible.

sanitary works usually will be part of the contract. the sanitary fittings may or may not depending on your negotiation with the main con. same as carpentry. you can opt to get your own subcons (eg: carpenter, aircon, lift) in but normally the main con will then charge you a 5% profit in attendance on top of your nominated subcon's cost. sanitary fittings and carpentry cost largely depends on what you want to buy and do. if you want top of the line items (eg: toilet bowls that cost 4 digits) and a lot of customised carpentry, then your cost will just sky rocket. some people go to the extent of laminating the insides of the wardrobes or cabinets which I feel is unnecessary added cost.

whether to do basement or not depends on how deep is your pockets. if money is not an issue, why not? however do note that basements must be fully enclosed if your land is above the 4metres SHD. if your land is low lying (ie : below the 4m SHD), then normally PUB will require your first storey to start at or above the 4.0m SHD which they define as the minimum platform level. then anything below this MPL can be considered the basement. but this are general guidelines and since each piece of land is different, the architect will normally draw up the plans first and then consult PUB and URA on the plans. I think generally for URA, as long as the plans are drawn up within the guidelines set by URA, basement shouldn't be an issue.

 

 

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As usual snoozee has given sound advice.

I'm replying your pm here so others can chip in too and benefit:

As he said, a tear down is a good place to begin, so you will need the full team. Cost wise, you have to be realistic what 950k can get.. 
Some contractors do the full works, or you can get an independent architect / ID, so they don't collude, but that means more to coordinate. They can answer all your questions and it's best to work with them. You can't go too cheap.

With a lower budget, you may just want to get the builder to quote a package. Doing it by December is possible, if you are prompt in tile selection and critical decisions - it will be tight, but given the slower economic times, it may be possible unless your builder uses a bunch of workers who aren't able to work. 

 

As for a basement, the additional cost to look out for is plumbing. Since it's a new one, that will cost. If you intend to live there for a long time, eg 20 years, it's a good thing. 

I bought my own lights / sanitary fittings, but you need to coordinate the arrival with your builder. 

There's a light sale in May and November from Philips (if it happens this year).. and Econflo has sales in August typical, which covers the major brands. 

If you still need a builder, pm me again. 

Edited by petetherock
 

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17 hours ago, Jennbunney said:

Hi!

Totally new to this forum but I've realised there are tons of experts on this!! It is my first time buying and reconstructing our home :)

Some details:

Type: Interterrace
Land: 1800sqft

Currently in it's original condition (1960s) 2 storey.

We're hoping to tear it down and rebuild to a 2.5 storey + attic. 

Could somebody let me know the process of how everything works? 

Some key questions

1) How do I check if a basement can be built? I read something about MRPL. Any way of checking this? Is it worth it to shell another 200-300K (Is that roughly what it costs?) for a terraced basement of a land 1800 sq ft?

2) What is the rough cost of reconstruction for the above?

3) Timeline, and how I could expedite things? We are hoping to move in before Christmas. Likely unrealistic I know. But it would be amazing to spend christmas at the new place.

Any tips for inter terraced from all you veteran home doeruppers would be super welcome!!

Lastly any affordable architect and builders contact welcome. 

Thanks in advance!

 

In your first post, as highlighted in bold & underlined by me.

I think you misunderstood the layman tern for 2.5 storey

Usually the .5 means the Attic

I assume you are looking at a basement floor, a 1st floor, a 2nd floor & an attic.

For your scenario, you'll likely be able to get +/- 3,000 sq ft GFA / built-in area

 

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25 minutes ago, petetherock said:

As usual snoozee has given sound advice.

I'm replying your pm here so others can chip in too and benefit:

As he said, a tear down is a good place to begin, so you will need the full team. Cost wise, you have to be realistic what 950k can get.. 
Some contractors do the full works, or you can get an independent architect / ID, so they don't collude, but that means more to coordinate. They can answer all your questions and it's best to work with them. You can't go too cheap.

With a lower budget, you may just want to get the builder to quote a package. Doing it by December is possible, if you are prompt in tile selection and critical decisions - it will be tight, but given the slower economic times, it may be possible unless your builder uses a bunch of workers who aren't able to work. 

 

As for a basement, the additional cost to look out for is plumbing. Since it's a new one, that will cost. If you intend to live there for a long time, eg 20 years, it's a good thing. 

I bought my own lights / sanitary fittings, but you need to coordinate the arrival with your builder. 

There's a light sale in May and November from Philips (if it happens this year).. and Econflo has sales in August typical, which covers the major brands. 

If you still need a builder, pm me again. 

now already march. since TS haven't even gotten a QP or builder to start on the plans, I think almost impossible to have Christmas party this year in new house.

assuming tomorrow the QP is engaged. say the QP takes 2 weeks to do the drawings and then submit. if everything goes well, URA approve by mid April. then after URA approval submit BCA for plans approval and permit. lets say BCA very efficient and takes 2 weeks to approve both, then will be start of May already.

demolishing the old house takes about 2 weeks. so now is mid-May.

sub-structure work take about 1 month so now is mid-june

super structure takes about 3 months so become mid-september

brick works and external/internal plastering takes about 1.5 month so is end-oct

then need to do tiling, floor finishes, electrical wiring, carpentry, etc? left 2 months to completed up and get TOP cert is almost impossible. even if house is complete, legally the owner is not allowed to have gatherings, parties, etc in the house before TOP cert is issued.

worst thing in construction is to rush which results in slipshod work.

think TS To target for CNY 2021 or labour day 2021 would be more realistic.

 

 

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Yep, don't rush.. one full year is a safer bet.. especially if there's a basement involved. 

Don't forget that there's a lot of rain at year end, and the roof need to be up so that the internal works / fittings won't be spoilt.

 

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On top of everything Pete & Snoozee said, don't forget this is an inter-terrace, which means strutting & temporary support to left & right neighbor's house is a must. Especially so when basement is involved.

 

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One thing to note is to contact Netlink Trust to relocates the existing fiber connection in the house first before demolition starts. I’m not sure how much they will charge to relocate the fiber cable but I had to pay more than 1k for them to lay a new cable from their distribution point to my meter compartment as mine was cut by the contractor during the demolition. If they charge less than 1k to relocate the cable then it will be some money saved which can be used for other purpose. 

 

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Thanks for all the help and amazing advice. You guys are truly fantastic!

Is there anything I can do to speed up the process and what are time-limiting steps?

From what I gather

1) Engage in architect/builder (design and build) for drawings

2) If OK, submit to URA -- takes a month

3) Once URA approves, need to submit to BCA for license and permit to start work

What is the TOP cert and how can we obtain this faster? 

I'm sorry for all the newbie questions.

PS - wanted to also ask if you guys had any terraced house building recommendations to suggest especially on retrospect. Maybe a sky roof for more light? 

Also, did you guys use the attic as an extra bedroom, or entertaining space, or study etc? Interested to find out!

 

 

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TOP is temporary occupation permit 

you can only apply for it when the house is almost done. Only way to get this fast is to make sure the builder does everything properly and there’s not much rectifications after the inspection. 
 

attic can be used as entertainment room or extra bedrooms depending on what are your needs. My master bedroom takes up the entire attic. 
 

can do a skylight above the stairs to let light in. But depends on how your stairs is configured as well. If you have a lift and the stairs wrap around the lift shaft then no point having a skylight at the stairs

 

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16 hours ago, snoozee said:

TOP is temporary occupation permit 

you can only apply for it when the house is almost done. Only way to get this fast is to make sure the builder does everything properly and there’s not much rectifications after the inspection. 
 

attic can be used as entertainment room or extra bedrooms depending on what are your needs. My master bedroom takes up the entire attic. 
 

can do a skylight above the stairs to let light in. But depends on how your stairs is configured as well. If you have a lift and the stairs wrap around the lift shaft then no point having a skylight at the stairs

This can be done using a combination of Steel Sections & Glass for both Lift Support / Wall & the Staircase wrapping around the lift wall.

 

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1 hour ago, 3Cube said:

This can be done using a combination of Steel Sections & Glass for both Lift Support / Wall & the Staircase wrapping around the lift wall.

yes I agree. but of cos the cost also goes up since structural steel is not going to be cheap and I believe the glass would also need to be laminated safety glass. this would increase the cost as compared to a RC lift shaft.

 

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