w7_lee

I think M6 is OK. It is just a static load and you have to install more than 1 pc. You can check the hole size on the mounting plate of the projector to be sure M6 is not too big.

My typo error, should be powder coat. They can be scratch but are more resistant than paint. The doors directly above the hob should also be change.

I am not a hood guy and when I was planning to reno my house a few years back, I had also planned to have top hung cabinets and no hood. But my contractor also advise me to install a hood to protect the cabinets. I took the contractor's advise as he was a friend of my father. In your case, I can see that it is not really an option to install a hood anymore. I suggest you install the stainless steel sheet. If the S/S color don't compliment with your cabinet (looks like white to me), get the contractor to use aluminium and power coated to the color that match with your cabinets. My suggestion only. Good luck.

Mine was done on tiled walls. The hammer drill SHOULD NOT crack the tiles if the tiler did their job right. If the tiler only put cement on the edges of the tiles and fix in on, the center of the tile is hollow (i.e. no cement). In this situation, if you apply too much force, the tiles may crack. You can check this by tapping the tile and listening to the sound. But I have drilled on hollow tiles before and they did not crack either. I normally start with drill turning at a slower speed (half depress the trigger on the drill) and applying light force. Hold the drill firmly as the drill will start hammering onto the wall (while rotating) when you apply force. Once you see the drill bit has breach the tile surface by 3 or 4mm, you can squeeze the trigger (drill rotating full speed) and apply a larger force. Once you start to see cement dust, the tiles has a through hole and you can now drilling on the structural wall. You can use more force. No need to be nice to cement. No need to do anything special on the tiles besides marking the hole location. If you are drilling a fixture with 2 holes, mark and drill 1 hole first. Then secure the fixture (plug & screw) and then marked the 2nd hole. Remove the fixture, then drill the second marked hole. Unless you are experience, the above will minimize accidentally having the 2 holes totally out of position. Good luck.

For drilling on wall, you need to use hammer drill (regardless tile or just normal wall). You need to check if those sold at Ikea has hammer feature. Most corded drills nowadays allows you to switch between hammer or normal and I think they don't cost much either. You might be able to get it below $100 at hardware shop. Maybe Giant sells them too (non branded ones). The drill bit is different too. Just tell the hardware shop guys that you want the drill bits for wall drilling. I think the normal is size 6 or 8. Get the rubber plugs for the drill size too. And again, get stainless steel screws. In the toilet, it is damp and the screws will corrode after a year (if not months).

It is easy, I did all my accessories (bathroom & rest of the house) myself. But like Dylanchua mentioned, you need to be careful if you have conceal pipes in the wall. My one suggestion is to replace all the screws with stainless steel. Those screws that come with the accessories are mostly chrome-plated screws. With time, they will corrode and it will be difficult to remove them in future.

I hope I will be healthy and not get sick/incapacitated by some disease like dementia, heat attack, cancer, etc.... This way, I can work until I drop dead and will not give my child any financial & emotional burden. And she can collect $ from my insurance pay-out. And (just) hopefully, she has a chance to retire.

If just for the 5 items that you've mentioned (not including furnishing), I think 30K should be more than enough... if you go direct to contractor. Like what bepgof mentioned, you should have excess to fix some of the more 'hard to reno' stuff.

Doesn't look like it has faded. I believe those are accumulated stains..... from dirt off our clothing, perspiration from our skin, etc... I think is typical on leather sofa. Wiping it regularly keeps it cleaner but will still have stain. I heard stem cleaners remove all stubborn stains, you can try it but I'm not sure how it will affect the leather.

I am not too sure how the piping is (base on your description) but I think you can investigate if the leak is coming from the 90degree elbow joint. I had this in my bathroom 2 or 3 years back. It was the drain from the sink (of the unit above mine). I spend some time trying to find the leak... had to wait till my upstairs neighbor was using the sink and quickly climb on my ladder and using a torchlight, look for where water is seaping out. Found the leak at the 90 degree joint with the straight pipe. I bought a can of pipe glue and apply it on the joint. I did it for over a week, every night when I know that the neighbor had gone to bed and unlikely to be washing hands. In the middle of the night when I woke up to relieve myself, I also climb onto my ladder and apply again. The leak stop but I think it will come back again. By the way, did the HDB come over to have a look or did they just give you advice over the phone?

Tried to send you a message but it says you cannot receive any. Not sure why, maybe I'm doing it wrong. Anyway, the information is below. Hi-Tek Electronics Pte Ltd, #03-24, Sim Lim Tower, 6299 9378 email: hitek@singnet.com.sg Let me know how much it cost. I may want to get my old lamp repair and use it in my office.

Unless the tree which that piece of wood came from is extinct... otherwise, I think what you are trying to do is not worth it at all. Laminate can be peal off but they cannot be peal off perfectly. You will definitely need a sanding machine. No chance with sand paper and arm power.

I recently went to SL Tower to get a table lamp and make enquiry with a shop. The owner recommend me a LED type. I was looking for florescent tube table lamp cos my LED lamp stop working after just 2 years. I mentioned it to the owner and he said that probably the driver is gone. He told me to bring to him and he change the driver. He's on the 3rd level. I got his card at home, let me know if you need it.

Sorry for the double post, not sure why it refuse to let me edit my first post. Anyway, you can get the pipe & elbow from piping hardware shop (normally in industrial park). They can cut the pipe to your desired length. But I think it is easier with the Ikea or Spotlight off the shelve design.

Hi Vainwallfloral, did you get the picture off the internet or it is actually what you have at home (in Singapore). It looks like 1/2" galvanized water pipe and elbow (with a coat of paint). I only cannot tell you where to get the flange that mounts to the wall.

Hi Vainwallfloral, did you get the picture off the internet or it is actually what you have at home (in Singapore). It looks like 1/2" galvanized water pipe and elbow (with a coat of paint). I only cannot tell you where to get the flange that mounts to the wall.

Since it is your first time, pay & get an electrician. I assume yours is not LED type (since you mention replacing the bulb). Probably the ballast is 'kaput'. The electrician should be able to remove the light, check & replace for you. Watch how he do it & next time you can DIY.

I assume you meant that the switches for the fan & light are lighted, so there is current reaching them. Try removing the filter/mesh and look behind the area where the switches for the fan & light are. There might be some electrical connection behind there. I am not sure if there will be fuses there but mine (not Delizia) is just simple wiring connection if I recall correctly (the last time I check; 3 year ago).

If you think it's the fuse, there is only the one at the 3 pin plug. Check there.

GMC is right. The local agent is the correct contractor to call. But is it worth it to repair this? Safety, safety !

I have the same gaps along the sliding windows in my house. The is normal for sliding windows in Singapore. Poor workmanship due to tendering process adopted by the developer (gov & private). I do not think there is a solution for sliding windows. Can only live with it. If you have curtain rods, maybe get some thick curtains (from IK**). It might block out some of the noise.

To just do the affected area, the contractors will still need to apply permit from HDB. The process is the same as applying to hack the whole house, so they can't charge you much cheaper. Moreover, for small jobs, you need them more than they need your business. Unless someone recommends you some private tillers, you don't have much option. But be mindful, the tillers are private but to hack on floor, legally I think you still need permit from HDB. Otherwise, the owner may get into trouble. Why not consider re-doing the whole place. You can fix the affected tiles now. But if 3 months later, another area start to pop again, then how?

I got my dining chairs (4 pcs) re-upholster last year by Adrian (www.hotseat.com.sg). He did not quote the cheapest but he came to pick up & deliver back to me. The others that I ask for quote, some quote cheaper than him but I must self deliver/collect. Others include collection/delivery but was more expensive.

Light sensor switch... I am not exactly sure how you can use that. If you install the sensor inside the wardrobe, it turns on when it is dark. With the door closed, it's always dark, so the light is always on? Don't make sense. If install outside the wardrobe, in the night when you sleep, the room light is off room is dark. So it turns on the light in the wardrobe. Again don't make sense. Contact switch seems to make more sense. Between T5 & LED strip, I'd choose T5. Cheaper & easier to maintain. If the tube/ballast burns out, just change whichever is faulty. With LED, it is more expensive. LED bulb will last much longer but not sure the driver? If the driver burns out, must change driver, so you must install it at a accessible location. If you can't get the same driver, must change driver & LED strip again. My opinion only.

Removing the tube to find the fault seems to be the best option (besides replacing all which will cost a few hundred dollars). But you can try removing 5 tubes on the first go and leave 5 working. If it does not trip, then you know those 5 that was left running is fine. Then install another 1 or 2 tube each time until the CB trip. If the first 5 tubes are remove and you get a trip, then you know (at least) 1 of those 5 tube (not remove) has a problem. Then you replace the 5 you remove the first time and start removing the others. Hope I'm not making it more confusing. With that being said, I think the tubes are not the main problem. The ballast is likely the problem, the probably heat up and cause the trip. If the CB dont trip, the ballast might catch fire. So you know you have a working CB. You should be finding the faulty light assembly and replace the ballast of that assembly.