Paint Types?

[Reverie 1]

I like to DIY and paint my coffee table tops, Tv console and shoe cabinets.

I read those overseas webbies that speak of using latex paint... or satin interior paint and top with coats of clear polyurethane so that the table tops are durable.

Really clueless what all these are.

Can anyone enlighten me on the types of paint

Cos so far I only know of using those High Gloss Nippon paint for wood and metal alike.

Anyone schooled in local terms for paint jobs and able to educate me a few tips on DIY painting jobs at home.

Thanks!

[MaCe 3]

for wood.

1) sanding

2) shellac / shee lac - hardwareshop uncles sure can understand it. Need this as the base.

3) varnish(from hardwareshops) or bodelac (nippon paint).

forget all those angmoh terms - in sg, pple who sells them WONT be able to understand them.

Edited July 29, 2008 by MaCe

[gladyslim 0]

Latex & emulsion paints are for painting of walls.

Paints that avaliable on the shelf for solid wood & metal are normally turpentine base paint; i.e slow drying type. U can order quick drying paint for metal - the thinner base type at a higher price.

To get better coat of finishing, u need to order paint with hardener, like pu coating.

For varnishing of wooden top, u need to sand, varnish, sand again, varnish again before lacquering.

Plywood & normal timber will not get a smooth painting surface unless u run a few coats of emulsion paint over it.

Most knock down furniture that is not solid wood where pu paint is used is normally MDF ply.

Satin finishing refers to the type of effect like the hairline; grains of the wood, i.e is to say u won't get such effect on teak wood, ramin, nyatoh etc.

To varnish those existing varnished wooden main door installed by HBD, u can use the Bodelac varnishes.

Sand before varnish. Re-sand & varnish is not require as this ready varnish is differ from those u buy and have to add solvent to it.

shellac is clear light brown colour, for varnishing u have rosewood, walnut, black etc

Lacquer is clear coating applied over the varnishing to get glossy & more durable surface.

I hope my information is correct and not misleading.

[hihihi 0]

off topic abit... regarding painting of wall.

Before the bangla used by my contractor started painting my wall, I had already self-plaster some portion and also sand other portion of the wall (seperately portions, e.g wall A is purely plastered, wall B is purely sanded). But after he painted, the wall is like not smooth, like got those "Mo-Peng". It looks even more obvious with the lights shining on it. Comparing those plastered surface and sanded surface looks the same, uneven.

Is it because the paint is too thick? Is it bcoz he used roller to paint that caused these unevenness?

I was thinking of re-plaster the wall, and leave it just like that. Will the plaster powder off easily?

[MaCe 3]

To get better coat of finishing, u need to order paint with hardener, like pu coating.

any idea whats pu coating in hokkien?

I always have a tough time talking to paintshops

[gladyslim 0]

any idea whats pu coating in hokkien?

I always have a tough time talking to paintshops

special ordered paint at certain paint dealer.

U ask them 药水漆 - for wood use or for metal, there is a difference

come with a tin of paint; half full and a plastic barrel of hardener.( sometime 2 types additive for metal use)

Check with:

chye seng at Amk ave 3

choo lip at Yishun central

hak chok at sin ming

asia paint

Edited August 1, 2008 by gladyslim

[gladyslim 0]

off topic abit... regarding painting of wall.

u want the finishing like marble or granite surfaces?

I wish to know too.

Those finishing normally have a layer of wax that filled up the air bubbles holes too.

For wall, I think it is not possible, once the air bubbles in the plastering dry up, got 'lobang' liao

Maybe sealer & etching can help to get a better finishing.

why mdf ply is used when painting is chosen and not plywood. This is becos mdf ply has a thin sheet like pvc over it to give a smooth surface.

Plywood does not have that layer; just like your wall, u paint it, the paint is just keep on absorbed.

Edited July 30, 2008 by gladyslim

[Guest our-home]

Latex & emulsion paints are for painting of walls.

Paints that avaliable on the shelf for solid wood & metal are normally turpentine base paint; i.e slow drying type. U can order quick drying paint for metal - the thinner base type at a higher price.

To get better coat of finishing, u need to order paint with hardener, like pu coating.

For varnishing of wooden top, u need to sand, varnish, sand again, varnish again before lacquering.

Plywood & normal timber will not get a smooth painting surface unless u run a few coats of emulsion paint over it.

Most knock down furniture that is not solid wood where pu paint is used is normally MDF ply.

Satin finishing refers to the type of effect like the hairline; grains of the wood, i.e is to say u won't get such effect on teak wood, ramin, nyatoh etc.

To varnish those existing varnished wooden main door installed by HBD, u can use the Bodelac varnishes.

Sand before varnish. Re-sand & varnish is not require as this ready varnish is differ from those u buy and have to add solvent to it.

shellac is clear light brown colour, for varnishing u have rosewood, walnut, black etc

Lacquer is clear coating applied over the varnishing to get glossy & more durable surface.

I hope my information is correct and not misleading.

I've had these two chairs and telephone table with me for 11 years, just got the chairs reupholstered recently, but the wood surface looks dull with some chips and dirt stains. We've diy-ed painting the flat, simple plumbing before, but have not tried touching-up our wood furniture.

Do you guys think it's advisable to re-varnish these furniture on our own? Thought of going to Handifix store this weekend to buy the necessary stuff ...

Chair:

Phone table:

[homepainting101 0]

Hi,

If your wooden furniture has a lacquer or varnish based finishing, you may use sandpaper to remove the finishing and redecorated with either clear or coloured varnish, shellac or wood stain instead of the Nippon Bodelac or ICI Gloss Finish (enamel paint).

In our local market, Nippon Paint offers Timberlac (wood varnish) that comes in 7 shades in glossy or matt finishing.

ICI Dulux offers Timbertone that comes is 5 colour tint.

Kangaroo Paint on the other hand offers a highly durable, PU (polyurethane) - re-inforced stained (coloured) varnish. It also has another range of solvent based wood stain under Kimber-) range.

Another more exotic brand Wood Kote from USA offers a unique gel based wood stain that has over 30 colour tones to choose from.

For additional protection and a more durable coating, you may apply a clear PU (i.e. Polyurethane)finishing that provides more than twice the protection of normal lacquer based finishing and PU coating will not yellow with time.

Currently, I've only come across the Rustoleum brand in Singapore.

You can visit www.estore.com.sg for all the products that have been mentioned. They have quite a comprehensive range.

Hope this info helps and happy DIYing

Victor

I like to DIY and paint my coffee table tops, Tv console and shoe cabinets.

I read those overseas webbies that speak of using latex paint... or satin interior paint and top with coats of clear polyurethane so that the table tops are durable.

Really clueless what all these are.

Can anyone enlighten me on the types of paint

Cos so far I only know of using those High Gloss Nippon paint for wood and metal alike.

Anyone schooled in local terms for paint jobs and able to educate me a few tips on DIY painting jobs at home.

Thanks!

[gladyslim 0]

Do you guys think it's advisable to re-varnish these furniture on our own? Thought of going to Handifix store this weekend to buy the necessary stuff ..

.Chair:

I also thought of re-varnish my dinning chairs smiliar to your type too.

Stripping & sanding the existing finishing for the whole chair is too tiring and to spend $$$ to get the sealer for those little scratches or dented part is not so practical as u need to get dye & shellace to match it.

Personally, I think , just light sanding using grit 180 grey coloured sandpaper which is mend for wood.

wipe the parts free from dust and oil; just dish detergent will do. Then apply lacquer.

For convenience, buy those aersol lacquer which is only few bucks. If u use brush, the coating is not that even. Laid your object flat, if u spray it in a standing position, the lacquer will more or less drip.

Test on the underside of your chair or table.

TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK, don't come after me.

Edited July 31, 2008 by gladyslim

[Guest our-home]

I also thought of re-varnish my dinning chairs smiliar to your type too.

Stripping & sanding the existing finishing for the whole chair is too tiring and to spend $$$ to get the sealer for those little scratches or dented part is not so practical as u need to get dye & shellace to match it.

Personally, I think , just light sanding using grit 180 grey coloured sandpaper which is mend for wood.

wipe the parts free from dust and oil; just dish detergent will do. Then apply lacquer.

For convenience, buy those aersol lacquer which is only few bucks. If u use brush, the coating is not that even. Laid your object flat, if u spray it in a standing position, the lacquer will more or less drip.

Test on the underside of your chair or table.

TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK, don't come after me.

Hi gladyslim,

Sounds quite tricky to refinish the chair. I'm not experienced at this, so will have to think about it first ...

Thanks for the tip!

[denbel 0]

I also thought of re-varnish my dinning chairs smiliar to your type too.

Stripping & sanding the existing finishing for the whole chair is too tiring and to spend $$$ to get the sealer for those little scratches or dented part is not so practical as u need to get dye & shellace to match it.

Personally, I think , just light sanding using grit 180 grey coloured sandpaper which is mend for wood.

wipe the parts free from dust and oil; just dish detergent will do. Then apply lacquer.

For convenience, buy those aersol lacquer which is only few bucks. If u use brush, the coating is not that even. Laid your object flat, if u spray it in a standing position, the lacquer will more or less drip.

Test on the underside of your chair or table.

TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK, don't come after me.

Hi gladyslim,

Sounds quite tricky to refinish the chair. I'm not experienced at this, so will have to think about it first ...

Thanks for the tip!

Hey guys,

Just sharing my experiences, i tried re-varnishing my wooden chair last year. It is a tiring process but i'm satisfied with the finishing. I'm considering re-varnishing the baby cot when i'm free.

Here's what i did,

1. If got small chips, can buy those water-based wood filler and fill it up. It comes in a few colours for you to match. After that, sand it down to smoothen the whole wooden part you want to paint..

2. Clear away the dust etc

3. I bought this winshield from the paint shop at upper thomson, it is an exterior varnish but it is cheaper than Timberlac (meant for interior) hehe I chose a darker tone

4. I find it rather easy to apply, 2 coats with i think 4 hours drying time in between (if i remember) and it's done. Very nice finishing!

Hope it helps

[X.H.LI 0]

i got questions to check with you guys here...

1. if a cupboard which has lacquer applied, and i want to paint some other colours, do i still need to sand off the lacquer on it?

2. is it possible to use the paint which is meant for plastic surface to paint on a lacquer wood?

thank you very much.

[gladyslim 0]

The solvent base for lacquer is m. spirit.

when u use those on the self paint which is normally turpentine base, the finishing coating might not be that good.

Where to buy paint for plastic material?

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http://www.fr3b.com/referral_program.php?r...d4be8b126aed069

Edited October 27, 2008 by gladyslim

[shaunling 5]

didn't know what latex paint was. 

Saw the technique of applying latex paint on youtube.