watchthewaves

Is there a "standard" set of equipment they provide, and if want more, must pay more? Does it include external and internal video recording and real-time viewing over the Internet? Thanks.

Would like to hear from those who have installed a home security system, what did you get and ballpark figure on cost (both setup as well as running cost). Am considering a system that detects entering, motion and also has video. Considering also getting alerts via mobile only, or to get a subscription with one of the security companies. PM me please, if not convenient to post. Thanks.

Yes, I am aware of that. My question on point 4 arose because Misc100 stated "In the event of fire, and the owner has to do extensive replacement/renovation to the unit, the owner cannot claim from this fire insurance policy". Not quite true, because, as you pointed out, the fire insurance with the bank as beneficiary would be used to reinstate the structural works. However, the homeowner has to take care of the rest himself, so good to get another policy to cover what's not covered by the bank's fire insurance.

I wonder whether you got your facts correct. Why don't you read the terms in the policy. You have a copy, don't you? 1. Yes, the bank is the beneficiary because it wants to protect its interest - to restore the place back if it is damaged by a fire. It should be that the bank can claim on the policy if there is a fire, regardless of whether you can pay your loan installment or not. You sure the insurer can claim back from the owner? 2. That's probably in your mortgage loan agreement. 3. If there's any such term, probably in your mortgage loan agreement again. 4. Have you checked with your bank on this? Or read the policy?

Yah, WC is WC. Unless you take a sledgehammer to it. What's more likely to go first is the flushing mechanism, as you yourself mentioned. So getting one with a simple/generic flushing mechanism will save on replacement cost.

The work at the back looks quite extensive, extending all 3 stories. Also, when you reposition rooms and walls, are supporting columns and beams may be affected? If so, more work is needed to re-cast supporting columns and beams, and remove the old ones. One question that crossed my mind -- what about your roof? No work needed? If you're going with an all-in-one "design & build" style of doing things, the PE fees seem a bit on the high side to me. Since you already have specific details of what you need done, get recommendations from others who are happy with the work their builder did, and approach them for quotes. Then you have a basis for comparison as you'll know that they are quoting you for the same scope of works. Of course, watch out for possible areas which may not be equal, eg different provisional rates/sums quoted, different size/quality of timber.

I'm not too familiar with how HDB's process works, but in general, I would've thought that once the option is exercised, if the seller tries to back out, the buyer can still get specific performance to complete the transaction. Is it different for HDB apartments?

Some condos are "less strict" than others. You could take a walk through your condo to see what has been put up. If you see wide variations, and especially if the gates don't look new, then chances are the management isn't strict and you may be able to get away with it. Personally though, I think its logical to have such by-laws for anything external of the unit to perserve the overall look of the condo, whether it is on the outside of the building, or just facing one neighbouring unit. I wouldn't want to look at a bright pink door every time I come out or go into my apartment, even if my neighbour thinks its nice and goes with her interior decor.

If you are thinking about how the potential for building bigger can give some upside to the resale value, this potential for residential landed property is not controlled in terms of plot ratio, but controlled by height restriction and setbacks from the boundary line.

I like the looks of this really sleek fan: Haiku fan Think it will fit in nicely with a contemporary look decor

Some go by percentage, some go by fixed fee. As for whether your total cost is "standard", assuming "average" finishings, depends on your GFA. What will it be? Also, like kardtoon mentioned, you have to let us know what's excluded too.

Yes, electricity tariff is more expensive, but induction cooking is supposed to be more efficient -- less loss of heat to the air. So you use less energy to cook. The faster cooking and/or lower power used should be able to offset the more expensive electricity tariff when compared with the gas tariff. So my question to those who say induction cooking is more expensive -- if your statement comes from comparing your electricity usage with your gas usage when you changed over, what was the difference?

What is your definition of materials? If its just things like tiles and lights, bathroom fittings, some people do get it themselves, others will have the contractor quote a rate (so they get a sense of total cost) and then when they choose the stuff, they could end up needing to top up (if they want better quality) or enjoy a reduction (not often, I think). Or are you also thinking of supplying things like cement and other building materials yourself? Suggest you leave that to them. Like Soichiro said, these are where they probably have the upper hand. Most of the advice you see on renotalk also does not deal with the cost of such building materials.

Whatever wiring that you anticipate needs to run through your false ceiling, as far as possible, install before your false ceiling is completed. If not. then you should get strings put in place, so that when you finally want to install the wires, can tie to one end of the string and pull through.

Any updates? Interested to know whether you managed to get the quote from interior affairs revised to be closer to the local ones. Gaggenau ovens would cost a bomb I believe. If budget is smaller, De Detrich and Brandt are also known for their ovens. One thing to consider is whether your MIL is comfortable with those ovens with lots of features with electronic controls, or she prefers the more basic and traditional knobs-type manual controls.

Could you share what processor you are using? I have an idea of what amps I want to drive my speakers, so I don't want to spend money on an AVR and not use the built-in amps. I'd rather that every cent I spend goes to a good processor. What would you recommend I look at? Thanks.

1) I personally won't because it takes more electricity to heat up a larger tank. You're heating up water that you don't need. Wasting electricity. Also, need to wait longer. 2) Dunno, but what I'd do is to leave my mixer pointed in the middle, so every time I turn on the tap, water is obtained both from the cold pipe and the heater tank. 3) Dunno, but is there enough space for 1 big tank? Or does the big tank require current beyond the max that the current wiring can provide?

What is the estimated life of the different lightings? And what is your usage like? You can calculate for yourself to see whether its worth or not. Electricity is about 24cents per kWh. The Philips set saves you 8W. You have to run it about 11,000 hrs before you save enough to make up for the price difference. If you use it 10hrs a day, that's about 3 years. That's assuming both sets last that long. If Philips lasts longer, you'll have to factor that in.

For those with instant heaters, has anyone connected the hot water outlet to multiple outlets, eg not just to the shower head, but to the mixer at the basin too.

A parquet floor is a wooden floor made of small pieces of wood put together. In Singapore, when the term "parquet" is used, it is normally understood to mean small solid wood pieces. Above a certain size of the pieces, it is then referred to as timber or timber strip. So in terms of durability and wear, parquet and timber flooring would be the same, assuming same wood used. In terms of cost, parquet is cheaper. In terms of looks, that's personal. The usual thought though is that larger timber strips look nicer. Now, people may think that parquet flooring looks dated, but look at mosaic tiles for bathrooms -- you wait long enough, from dated, it then comes back into fashion as retro!

I remember hearing that instant heaters use less electricity compared to storage heaters. If that is so, would it be better to install instant heaters in each toilet rather than a lesser number of storage heaters? What advantages do storage heaters have over instant heaters?

Tech wizard and cookcpu, Thanks for the info and links. If ever I were to consider putting a koi pond in place, I'd certainly do a lot more reading up on those sites to fully appreciate what it involves first. Thanks again.

Anyone has info on how much the Haiku fan sells for in Malaysia? Is there somewhere in JB to buy from? http://www.haikufan.com/ In Singapore, info is here: http://www.relitespecialty.com/product_inf...d6cf263ad44c7cb

I have the opposite question. If I am considering a koi pond, what is the most maintenance free manner to set it up? There is such a thing as a biological filter that is maintenance free,rt?

Believe both can easily replace yourself. Just that the bayonet one uses separate ballast, so cheaper, but could also mean if something wrong, need to try to identify whether bulb problem or ballast problem. If ballast faulty, need to replace it. For E27, although more expensive, if faulty just replace because bulb and ballast together. Doesn't matter which part faulty.