w7_lee

No balcony at my home but I do have floor to ceiling window in my living room. Windows are north facing but get some sun on left wall in the morning and on right wall in the late afternoon. I am using curtain now (7 years old) but the cloth is dis-integrating. More dust particles on the floor where the curtain is. Should be due to the UV from the sun. I can make a new set for a few hundred dollars but probably will do without in future.

Get a piece of cable with a 3 core wire. 1 end of the cable should be connected to a 3 pin plug. The other end of cable will have the LNE wire expose, cut off the insulation of the 3 wires (about 5mm) to expose the copper wire. Connect the L,N & E copper wire to the correct terminal of the light. Make sure the wires are not touching anything besides the connectors. If there is no E connection, tape it with insulation tape. Plug the 3 pin plug to the wall socket. Turn on and you have light... hopefully. If you have problem understanding the above, you should not even attempt yourself. Get a friend with electrical knowledge to help.

I had to do it myself when I was renovating my home. My reno contractor did the pipe work for me. Once the renovation was complete, hob was installed but gas line was not connected. Then I call CG to request for turn on gas line. They send their guy over (who looks like a sub-con too). When he was happy with the pressure test, he connect the line to my hob, switch on the incoming gas, check the last connection has no leak (soap water test) and turn on the stove. Ask your hacking contractor to make good the damage or use one of those listed on EMA website.

Did you use both the drills from the same wall socket? I am not an expert but maybe there is a fault in your wall socket. The other I can think of is the extension wire (if you are using).

Thanks.

If I recall correctly, inside the house your contractor can fix it, then get PUB to come test before it goes 'live'.

Anybody has any idea how to remove the blower of the indoor unit? My model is MSY-GE10VA. I'm able to remove the drip tray and all the electrical section on the right. When attempting to remove the blower, I was able to remove the left side (which just sits in a bearing housing). On the right side, I had loosen the screw that connects the blower to the motor. I could slide the blower in the left, right direction, so it should be free. So I tilted the cooling fins outwards, lower the left side of the blower till it clears the cooling fins and tried to slide the blower towards the left. It t slide for about 20mm and stop. It refuse to come off the motor shaft. No matter how hard I pull, the right side does not want to disengage from the motor shaft. I dare not move the cooling fins too much in case I damage the refrigerant tubing. Anyone has any DIY experience? Thanks in advance.

Put enough white tape around the male thread. Then install the tap. The trick is not to over turn. As soon as you feel that you need more force to turn the tap, you must be prepare to rotate it to the next correct position & stop. If you overturn, then you either go 1 more round (if it is still possible) or you need to remove it complete, apply new tape and do it again. A trick I use is to count the number of round I apply the white tape on the male part and the number of times I turn the tap. Say I wind the tape on the male part 10 times and I install the tap. If I turn the tap 5 times and it become too tight for me to turn it another complete round, I will remove the tap and the old tape, apply white tap (13 times) and install the tap again. This time, when I install the tap, I am prepare to stop on the 4th turn (with the tap in the correct position). The numbers above are just example only.

I am not an expert but I had been curious on this, so during my renovation, I watch how my contractor do this. To connect the toilet bowl to the building piping (sewage pipe), there is a joint with flexible bellows. I think your plumber suspect this joint (or bellow) is damage or was not properly installed initially (more likely the former). The other possibility is the toilet bowl has cracked at places we cannot see. You should ask the plumber for more details and how much it will cost. If he don't ask you to replace the toilet bowl, should not be too expensive. He only need to charge you for the bellow and workmanship. In any case, this problem must fix. The water is not clean tap water, they are what you have flushed (water plus human waste). If you don't fix & don't use, can but if the water seeps to your downstairs neighbor house (toilet ceiling) and they call HDB (if gov flat dwellers) to investigate, then you still have to rectify. When this seepage reach your neighbour's house, most likely your wafer proofing is damage too and they will need to be re-do too. So the cost will increase. Since you have renovated the toilet, I don't think it will be 50/50 with your neighbor. But I am not too well verse in this part. Other experts can welcome to correct me.

You can only overlay once. So if you choose not to hack now, in 20 years time if you want to re-do the toilet, you're going to have to hack. With overlay, normally you should not have a leakage problem, maybe at the floor trap and toilet bowl zone only. It probably depends on the skill of the people doing the overlay.

The joints are pre-cast. You can get from hardware shop in industrial park (for galvanized or non-galvanized). Try AMK industrial park (or any industrial park). Just tell them you want water pipe joint (eg: 1/2", 90 degree elbow MM or MF; 1/2" = nominal diameter, 90 degree = 90 degree, MM = male male, MF = male female). The straight section you will need to order. The shop will cut to the length you want and thread the ends for you. After assembly, you will need to paint them to get a even color. The pipe & elbows you buy will not be same color tone. There is of course the stainless material but is very ex... Good luck.

From what I understood, HDB does not allow the pipes to be conceal. For those IDs who said 'yes', I think what they meant to build a 'fake wall' to conceal them. The fake wall need not be a real wall but just a splash screen mounted on the real wall. You can clarify further with them.

Don't misunderstand, I just meant the pictures (especially the first) are very high resolution. So looking at them, I could image seeing the brush stroke after the touch up. It should not be too obvious unless you are looking at it in the same high resolution.

Using water color paint brush is no problem. From your 'very clear' picture, the wall was painted using rollers, so you will see the brush stroke if you use paint brush. But you should 1st remove the peeling part. I would just use a rough cloth and wipe the damage area, the peel part should drop off.

If you are talking about 'boxes of unused tiles', the contractor will return to the supplier & gets billed for the actual number used. Whether he pass it to you or not is a different question. Normally, the contractor will make an estimate of how much they will need and order it. There will be extra and the tile supplier will take back whatever is not used. Tiling is not so straight forward, sometimes the appearance of the grain, color tone, etc... may have too much different. So a good tiler will check this and shortlist (select) the tiles that he can use. Shibumi is also correct, the contractor will (should) arrange for you to keep a couple of pieces of each type of tile. In the event that you need to do some replacement in the far future, you have a couple of pieces.

I share... Depth of my counter top is 23.5" (wall to front edge) but depth of my hob is 20.5". I have 1" space at the front & 2" space at the wall. But still, my head hit the hood when I stand at the stove. 2 reason: 1) because I am tall 2) if it's mounted too high, it would be too far to suck the fumes effectively

Not sure if there is an adapter for your purpose but You can change to this type of tap.

Cannot say it is cheap but I think $530 is reasonable. $80-$120 is not possible, this is only the price to cover 'labor' to install the heater. You need to be mindful that the pipe cost money and depending on where the pipe is going to come from and how far to Guest toilet.

Picture helps. I'm also HDB dweller but mine is bi-fold, so cannot image the handle you guys are talking about.

Did you try Sim Lim Tower? I am not sure if you can find it there but they sell soldering stuff. The other option is go to Element14 Singapore website and search Exhaust Fan. I did not look hard but some looks like what you found on aliexpress.

It serve no purpose to cover it up, you can't see it unless you happen to be on a ladder. The bottom is impossible to know unless you happen to slide a mirror between the floor & door. If you want, you can use the wood party to seal the gaps, sand it down and apply varnish. That's the top. The bottom, you are going to have to remove the door from the hinge to do it. Even if you check on your main wooden door (which is fire rated - BCA standard requirement), the top & bottom are also un-varnish. If you feel with your fingers, they are probably raw wood too. Maybe if you are lucky, there is a light varnish.

It's normal. I worked in a wooden door manufacturing company almost 20 years back and it's always been this way. It is an industrial practice in Singapore & Malaysia. Other countries I don't know.

I am not sure if they sell but did you try Homefix or Self-fix? Otherwise, go to industrial hardware shop. If you are staying at the east, try the hardware shop at Blk 4A, Loyang Industrial Estate. More central location is SL Tower.

It's just that when you use the word 'washer', steel type comes to my mind but I also thought they could be the rubber type too.

My opinion is that if the ID is doing it FOC, then go ahead since you are not staying there yet. But nowadays, stainless steel sink are not as good as 'stainless steel' sink from before. The materials are not so pure. To keep cost low, which country do you think the steel came from? Maybe when fixing the tap or during renovation, the workers might have place some tool (or screws) in the sink when working. There might have been water present subsequently, so rust forms later. The sink is not rusting but whatever tiny pieces of metal bur/chip from normal metal is causing it. Regarding the rust stain, Autosol works fine. I had use it on my sink too. It'll remove most of the rust stain. Yes, the area that you've polished will not have the mirror finish anymore but trust me, when you move in permanent, the sink will scratch when you do washing and you will loose the mirror finish. With usage, the rust normally does not form anymore (in my case). One thing to be aware: do not leave a metal can in the sink for too long. Example are those ready to eat mushroom soup in a can. It's not the soup people's fault but those cans are made from ferrous metal (use a magnet to check). If the can is wet and you leave it in the sink (especially overnight), next morning you will find a perfect circular rust stain in the sink. My experience. It also explains why we do not want to buy cans that has dent. Always wash the sink after use, especially if you have place such an above mentioned can in the sink. I am not certain why it is so but I think when the metal rust, some of the rusted metal stays on the sink even if the can is removed. So I will wash the sink using the sponge and dishwashing detergent to wash the sink. It removes the oil too. Soft drink cans (aluminium) and glass sauce do not give this problem.