taichipanda

All of you sure younger than me.

Thanks chynaho for explaining further. Bringing untreated wood into a house full of beautiful wood furniture is a big risk.

Skiing? Snowboarding? Mind i ask how old is getzski?

So far never see home network (less than 6 points) using patch panel. Imagine you have 6 rooms; You can use single RJ-45 faceplate for each room and terminate at a common location using a faceplate with 6 x RJ-45 sockets. Cosmetically it is very neat but you run the risk of additional contact points which sometime can go wrong, to repair the broken point, you need to remove the whole faceplate which involve additional risk of damaging other good points. So most safest way is to terminate using RJ-45 plug directly into the switch.

??? What is this? Redo, redo, redo...

Brand of TV and what is the TV size ordered?

Wine importers. BUT there is a slight risk of termite scare, if not careful, you can kiss all wooden furniture in your house bye bye.

You must have forgotten to throw lot of sea salt when you first step into the house after collecting keys.

*refer to t-blog*

White cement putty or silicon. Approach home-fix for further assistance.

Diva79 is right; go talk to your buyer for allow some extension. Dont change your contractor now, go talk to them instead. Tell them you die die must shift in on the 30th, see what they say.

When you have a house full of guests and your power trip like no tomorrow is very very embarrassing. If trip your own DB is still alright, if your trip somehow causes your floor MCB to trip affecting all your neighbors, i guaranty you will get be very apologetic.

If you everything also worry that it might not be approved by HDB, either you can go apply for approval and get your reno delayed or dont do it.

I prefer joint line to stain discoloration, scratches and melt/burn mark. Good luck to your island, great care needed for prevention and maintenance if use solid surface like acrylic or acrylic mix. Ask thedottyness about the demo i did on my quartz this morning; if on solid surface the owner sure cry.

No problem. Forget Samsung Radianz; take the CaesarStone 1141 Fresh White.

Share with me what materials and workmanship your id quote you to hit 5 digits. Bring your quartz sample if you coming over, i have sample of SilesStone Zeus Extreme for you to see.

Solid surface comes in many type of materials... 1. Postform (plywood with laminate) 2. Solid wood (polished and lacquer) 3. Polyester/Acrylic mixed 4. 100% Polyester 5. 100% Acrylic 6. Natural Stone (Granite/Marble/Limestone) 7. Stainless Steel 8. Quartz If you are looking for low maintenance, heat resistance, stain resistance, scratch resistance and chip resistance, then only Quartz fit the bill. I only use the brands (CaesarStone and SilesStone) i trusted. They are available in premium and non-premium range; various thickness (the thicker the more $); they can be quite expensive $180 pfr for non-premium and $280 pfr for premium range. If your kitchen cabinet is 10 feet in length, most if not all solid surface will come in 2 pieces. However some materials can be polish until cannot see and cannot feel the join line. I am using CaesarStone 2141 Fresh White Quartz (20mm) for my kitchen, total of 16 feet, $4000. If you are quoted by ID, expect to pay more. My longest kitchen cabinet is 9 feet, the Quartz solid surface comes in 2 pieces and installers use resin epoxy to join them together, can see and feel the join line.

Solid surface comes in many type of materials... 1. Postform (plywood with laminate) 2. Solid wood (polished and lacquer) 3. Polyester/Acrylic mixed 4. 100% Polyester 5. 100% Acrylic 6. Natural Stone (Granite/Marble/Limestone) 7. Stainless Steel 8. Quartz If you are looking for low maintenance, heat resistance, stain resistance, scratch resistance and chip resistance, then only Quartz fit the bill. I only use the brands (CaesarStone and SilesStone) i trusted. They are available in premium and non-premium range; various thickness (the thicker the more $); they can be quite expensive $180 pfr for non-premium and $280 pfr for premium range. If your kitchen cabinet is 10 feet in length, most if not all solid surface will come in 2 pieces. However some materials can be polish until cannot see and cannot feel the join line. I am using CaesarStone 2141 Fresh White Quartz (20mm) for my kitchen, total of 16 feet, $4000. If you are quoted by ID, expect to pay more. My longest kitchen cabinet is 9 feet, the Quartz solid surface comes in 2 pieces and installers use resin epoxy to join them together, can see and feel the join line.

The internal useable area is smaller than the floor plan. For instant, the length of my mbr on floor plan is 3975mm, the actual is 3850mm; the width on floor plan is 3100mm, actual is 2900mm. The queen size bed in your 2D & 3D drawing is not drawn to correct dimension; include bed frame is about 1700 X 2100, 4-dr wardrobe is about 1800 X 600. That leave you about 600mm walking space between wardrobe and bed frame edge. EDITED TO ADD: Your kitchen layout may not be practical, the actual useable width in a 3i kitchen is a about 2800mm, the fridge will take up 700mm, the L shape kitchen island width is about 600mm, that leave about 750mm walking space in between island & fridge and island & wall. A typical 3i ceiling is low, you got about 2400mm from floor to ceiling and there are ugly beam running across the kitchen. On the side of the wall with the rubbish chute there are ugly drainage pipe running from unit above down to yours, if you conceal this pipe, you will create a bottleneck with less than 600mm walking passage. Where is the space for washing machine and bamboo stick bracket? No store room? Then better look for a 3i + 1 utility room, expect to ford out more than one without.

I have the same thinking as you. Not sure if TS has the intention to install insect screen behind the strip (inside the cabinet)?

Relax and hear me out. There must be a reason for building a pole system wardrobe this way... If you want to build it wall to wall, then the wall must not have window; if not the clothes will be quite dusty, so most logical planning is to build frame around the pole system with sliding door, then the little space next to window, customer can put a stand alone clothes hanger. Not all people will straight away throw the clothes they wear directly into the laundry bag, i'm sure many people hang it somewhere to air dry or to wear later on, that little space is perfect for such thing. If they build a platform wall to wall, like what you have now... if you want to build a frame with sliding door later on, then they must hack away part of the platform which will affect the stability of the entire pole system. Actually i see the pole system wardrobe is build correctly, just that your ID is lousy in explaining why it is done this way and did not offer alternatives to you. Your ID is inexperience in communicating with both the customers and contractors. Good ID will do progress report on at least a alternate day basis and discuss with customer what job is going to be done next and any concern or last minute changes from customer. When i say last minute changes means minor changes not involving complete redo with additional or complete different set of materials. If customer really want such huge changes, customer must be told to expect delay up to a week for ordering and delivering of materials. All these miscommunication between you and your ID leads me to the following questions - Where and how you find your ID and what research you done on them? Have you talk to any of their customers before? Have you seen any of their current ongoing project? Seen testimonials from their past customers?

welcome back.

To construct a side outlet to route waste water to main outlet, due to the floor thickness to be effective for waterproof for your neighbor below, the pipe diameter cannot use 4" (that is the original outlet diameter), usually will use 2" diameter pipe so if you bath without water-saving shower head, it will create a puddle of water very fast cos the drainage cannot route waste water fast enough. Now your toilet floor is completed, if you die die want the above, they need to hack the floor tile and need to redo the waterproofing again at your expense. I would suggest you change to different type of floor trap.

Me also thinking of custom make 1 too. Raw solid oak frame with quartz top. If i choose the quartz top from premium range, the top itself will cost more than $1000.

Tell your ID/main contractor, they can construct another side outlet routed the water to the main outlet for you. Mine was done this way.