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shibumi

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Everything posted by shibumi

  1. May I know how does one administer the "water test"?
  2. Typically the residents will keep the leftover tiles in case need to repair some flooring areas next time & that tile design EOL.
  3. @Lucidacid: will you mind elaborating on how your contractor actually managed to achieve the thin frames, e.g. is it 1(or multiple) big panes of glass then he paste the metal strips on top of the glass, etc.? What material is the metal? Mild steel of aluminum? & as someone also asked earlier, how thick.thin is the horizontal/vertical cross-section of each metal strut? Thank you.
  4. @lovescandi: mind sharing a photo of one of the blum hinge that you received? I'm interested to know if the "damper" is the exposed kind.
  5. Hi, may I check with you this Version 1 sub-$300 model...is it able to auto-oscillate? & how's the power of the fan? Able to sufficiently cool a master bedroom?
  6. I am unable to find the CCM PDF anymore. I have quite a few MK metalclad sockets & switches that I bought directly from CCM (some more from various branches). Will take a look to see if I can spot any significant disparity. Btw, if I'm not wrong, red rockers means those sockets will receive backup power if main power goes down. I've a question for you though: nowadays the sockets have nothing in the "top hole" to depress in order to plug 2-pin appliances in ah? At least not on my MK sockets...
  7. May I have some sample videos & photos captured from the door viewer if you don't mind? I'm curious how clear the captured end-product is? & with the files I'll be able to tell the resolution & bit-rate. So far the few I'd came across, either the resolution (of both video & photo) is already too low, or even if high-res, due to the quality of the sensor the faces captured aren't clear. I am curious to see how good the sensor of the branded Yale digital door viewers are...
  8. Actually these blue & brown bottled strong floor cleaning solution seems to give a lot of problems; what are they meant for anyway? Or they were developed during a era where people don't have glossy tiles?
  9. Black rubber ones. Got people use those thin metal (steel) washers for plumbing purposes? I thought those are mainly for furniture?
  10. Al right fellows, this is gonna sound incredible, but I finally got the issue resolved. I got the rep from the BSC to take a look & their confident solution is: not 1, not 2, but 3 washers! At first I thought it was ridiculous, i.e. stuff 3 washers in already, will there still be enough of the internal screw thread of the new adapter to screw onto the original wall outlet? But it works, no leaks even without using any thread-seal (white) tape; no leaks even when I crank the tap output to maximum & didn't release the water flow on the handspray-side. But wait, there's more, I have 2 such wall tap outlets; I managed to solve the squirting issue in one of them by reverting to 2 (instead of 3) washers; whilst the remaining wall outlet I die die must use 3 washers. Still, I'm very perplexed by this whole issue. Though it is resolved.
  11. Extremely sharp observation; I have this suspicion also when I took the close-up photo of both adapters side-by-side. The original adaptor has a raised inner wall that I believe, inserts more deeply into the tap outlet & channels the water flow more robustly. That's the challenging part: I bought 3 new adapters all over different heartland shops in SG; all 3 new adapters do not have a raised inner wall (obviously). I find it a bit ridiculous that there's a special version of the adapter that is specific for the type of tap outlet that my toilet came with (DBSS btw). There's one shop that I shared my problem with, even say I forgot to put the black washer/O-ring (when obviously I did) & also convince me not to use white tape (thread-seal tape). Duh! Now I've gotta find a special hardware shop that sells the "more special" version of the adapter that I really want...
  12. Is it possible that the rubber gasket (not the silicon) around window panes (not frames), as well laminate of carpentry & even the top-layer coating of mixer can get adversely affected with chemical washing?
  13. Here's a video showing me activating the handspray with the original outlet; no leaking without without white tape & even with maximum intensity: https://youtu.be/6RPKGTTD2E8 I can't figure out why.
  14. Hi fellows. I changed the default tap outlet that came with my toilet handspray tap to another type of adaptor so that I can connect, i.e. screw in, a handspray to use. What's perplexing to me is that the areas (seams) where the new adaptor joins the tap outlet, & where the handspray joins the adaptor, leaks/squirts water when the handspray is connected. The following video demos everything: https://youtu.be/sDANZystt4s This happens despite/regardless: everything is tightened as much as possible I applied thread-seal ("white") tape at all areas my handspray is actually "released", i.e. water allow to flow out ("in use") whether I fully turn on the tap outlet or turn it on very so slightly only, i.e. a lot of water being received on the mains side, or very little water being pumped in all the black O-ring/water-saving thimble all installedI just don't understand why there is still squirting. The more amazing thing is, once I reverted to the original outlet adaptor, i.e. the kind that have to be used to a rubber hose & has no external screw thread for connecting handsprays, even without thread-seal tape & full-blast main tap, also no leak! What gives? The adaptor that I changed to is on the left; the original one that came with my tap, is on the right: Can assist? Or did I buy the wrong type of adaptor? But the size correct leh...
  15. Unless you have networking equipment that comes with GG45 ports (not RJ45), even if you are using CAT7 cable, you are not on an end-to-end CAT7 LAN: http://www.associatedtelephone.com/file_library/products/95_ATI-%20Cat%207%20&%207a%20Overview.pdf
  16. Hi fellows, may I check with you: I've got my entire living room flooring changed (from 1 type of tiles to another). However, after changing the tiles, with respect to the particular tile directly underneath my main external metal gate, the original hole that exist in the ground is no longer there. This hole, is the one that allows the internal shaft of the metal gate to insert into when we wish to lock the metal gate in position. May I know if it's the responsibility of my tiling crew to drill back a hole in the same spot for my metal gate to lock?
  17. Can't wait to see how your apartment turns out...btw, what's the difference between a feature wall, versus a partition wall? & how does an epoxy flooring feel like? i.e. very squeaky?
  18. Just curious: is it more expensive to get concealed points done, or more expensive to have exposed (surface-mount) points (for power sockets) done?
  19. This is what the wires around that area resemble, before the switches are up:
  20. Very observant! However, I can't recall now, but it may be due to me standing very close to the track light in the 1st video (& hence blocking any form of illumination from the "plastic bag light"; which will be way behind me); or it is possible that I did not place any light bulb in the plastic bag light in the first video. Let's assume with 1 of the above explanation is valid. May I know what strapper wires are, & how do the local variants resemble? I may have an old image showing the wires before the switches went up...let me go dig... That I think I can do. Will update here. Nice term!
  21. So I went down to did further troubleshooting today & discover something peculiar. There is another light in the (living room) area. I observe that, the flickering (in my track light) only occurs when this other lamp is powered on!? The tracks & this standalone lamp do not share the same switches; they each have their own individual physical switches (they are all controlled by 2-way switches, if this fact matters). However, as you can see in the video, their switches are extremely close together, i.e. essentially in the same cluster. The following video demonstrates today's observation (pay close attention to which switch I turn on/off): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIAnTgZeJuM Does this suggest somehow the 2 switches are short-circuiting/leaking to one another? @Pelect By any chance are you an electrician for hire? I appreciate your technical input but lacking the proper skills, I dare out execute the instructed troubleshooting by myself. If you are available to assist in a more direct manner, do let me know.
  22. My switches are non-dimmable. Anyway, here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7531-6wqZF0 & I stressed again 3 points: I'd tried with a few other 3-watt lamps (1 at a time of course); the problem is consistentI'd tried with 1 7-watt lamp; the problem is able to be re-produced, although the interval between flickering is longerI'd pass my own 3-watt lamp to my friend's place, who's also using 2-way switches on his track; no problem.I still dunno what's going on. & I still find it unbelievable that my electrician can tell me a little bit of stray current in 2-way circuits (despite being switched off) is normal.
  23. @cuppers: you have to let your electrician know specifically that you wish to surface-mount those metal-clad sockets; mounting without the box behind is called flush-mounting. Example of surface-mounting:
  24. May I check with you from whom did you order the black shelving racks from, & is it spray-painted, or powder-coated black?
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