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iltheas

Frameless Shower Screen Not Secure?

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Hi all, just wondering. Attached is the picture of my frameless shower screen. I feel that the tempered glass is not secure at all as the part of the glass that is 'held' by the side frame (the one that holds the glass to the wall) is too short. What do you think? Any expert here can give comments?

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Oh, the top of the frame is not covered as all. Is this normal? As for the part of the glass in the frame, shouldn't it be deeper? Thanks.

 

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Obviously the size of the glass was cut too small, and to make up for it, a H profile metal strip was used instead to cover the gap between the wall and the glass. Also, the metal strip is too thin.

Normally, a 25mm deep U profile channel is used, and it's typically about 2mm thick. Normally, it's embedded flush with the tiles. However, constraints are.. if there are water pipes beneath the tiles, or this is a last minute addition, then it can't be done. Go to any shopping centre and see the glass frontage of any shops. It's a very common method of installation.

 

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Hi yoongf, yup, you're right, there's a water pipe below that goes thru the frame. I see what you mean about the H profile metal strip. But shouldn't the glass at least reach that said metal strip? Are you saying that the metal frame is too thin? So in addition to the glass being cut too small (so only a bit of it are actually in the frame), the frame is too thin too??

 

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I was in the exact same situation.

Does your shower screen vibrate/shake a lot if you bang on it accidentally?

Was? Meaning, no longer? And please define 'a lot' :dunno:. I dunno if mine vibrates a lot or not, later test it when I'm home (eating snake now lol :dunno:). It does vibrate/shake, but I thought it's normal as it is frameless.

 

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Hi yoongf, yup, you're right, there's a water pipe below that goes thru the frame. I see what you mean about the H profile metal strip. But shouldn't the glass at least reach that said metal strip? Are you saying that the metal frame is too thin? So in addition to the glass being cut too small (so only a bit of it are actually in the frame), the frame is too thin too??

Put it this way.. tempered glass.. cannot do any onsite adjustement cos tempered glass cannot trim on site. If make too big.. like 0.5mm too big, then the glass will be hit by the door. The process of tempering will cause the actual glass dimension to change a bit. Thus.. it is the SOP of glass installers to undersize a bit, and let the metal strip and silicon to absorb the difference.

the H profile metal strip ... does not come in variable thickness. I suspect the contractor got what was needed to bridge the gap, then accept whatever thickness was available. I am not saying what is shown is incorrect or that it can't work, it's just not the standard practice.

As to whether glass doors will vibrate.. yes.. it is very fragile. Do not take it for granted that it can take punishment, just like u won't take a wine glass and treat it like a plastic green mug. A common problem is that after a while.. the glass door will slant a little due to loosened hinge, and actually rub the other panel. Bang it hard, and that is the end of both the panel and the person.

 

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I wanted a piece of frameless shower screen sitting perpenticular against the wall for my bathroom, just like yours.

I checked with my ID if that feasible and if it will vibrate since the only 2 holding areas are the frames on the wall and shower kerb. If it will, I will just drop the idea and stick to shower curtains instead. I can do without a $500 piece of glass just to block water. I confirmed that a couple of times because I was quite convinced that it will vibrate because it's frameless just resting there.

But she assured me that it will be fine, and it did turn out ok. Minimal shaking, I was quite impressed. BUT.. it overshot out of my shower kerb by almost 1cm. (Some pictures might be easier to express this ... later )

So I made a comment about that, she immediately summoned down the glass people and questioned them about it. And they changed it...

This time round, it's just nice, maybe. BUT the whole piece of glass vibrated for quite a while before it stops. It's quite unlike the worksmanship before. Just like what you had in the picture, it wasn't rested fully all the way inside the groove of the metal piece. They insisted that it's the standard practice to allow for expansion (and earthquake). If it's pushed all the way in, when there's earthquake, the whole piece will shatter!

But why wasn't that an issue the first time round? The glass was pushed ALL THE WAY in. Does it mean when they cut it too big, they can shove it in all the way and you don't need for expansion, but then whey cut it too small, they align it to the shower kerb, but don't bother about the shakiness? I have the entire area for them to measure and they still get it wrong?

The installers are most rude and uncouth, it was most unfortunate that I had to deal with them and shout at them personally over some lack of personal upbringing issues. I told my ID if that cannot be resolved, they can remove that item from the bill and take the glass back, I will stick to shower curtains.

Picture Story.

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In the end, it was settled, they did up this stainless steel frame for free, though I suspect my ID might have paid from her own pocket for it. She was quite pissed with them too, the glass company even dare suggest to her that they pay 1/2 each to "stable the issue" even though it's their own worksmanship problem.

By the way, when you have the opportunity, check if the company who did your glass is from A PLUS glass.

 

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hi lawry, nice pic :) how long did it take you to do that? :D i dunno about a plus or not, my wife's the one who saw them. i was at work.

hi yoongf, i think i got you, especially the SOP part. but my concern is still, is it normal to have only a bit of the glass in the frame? what you're saying is that, the glass will always be undersized, and will not touch the h metal or the wall directly. most likely, there will still be some gap. which is fine, if quite a big chunk of the glass is inside the frame. but my glass is like barely held by the frame like that. maybe need to put here the exact measurement of the glass that is inside the frame? looking at lawry's pic, i think at least his glass is inserted a bit deeper than mine.

 

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It may appear that only a small part of the glass is inserted into the metal AT THE TOP. But due to sloping toilet floor, or unflat/unsquare wall, the other sections of the glass maybe already max into the metal.

But what is unusual is how come the silicon is not applied to both sides. Normally, the glass sits in the middle, and silicon is applied to both sides. This is important as the silicon can allow for expansion/movement on either sides. Also.. do not underestimate the strength of silicon. Even if very little glass into metal, silicon itself can hold the glass upright.

 

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I did up those 3D drawings long ago when I planned for the renovation, drew those blunders back then to email to my ID. So now just gather the necessary pictures to group into one picture, within 10 mins.

 

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I better go n check mine. mine is also installed by A plus!

Is the silicon used to seal the pipe which goes thru the shower screen white or transparent?

I used the kind that the painter used. Is it correct? The plumber after installing the piping did not even put silicon to seal the hole in the shower screen. I had to borrow the painter silicon to DIY myself.

Edited by mint
 

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My contractor told me that to prevent the shower screen from shaking, he have to install a steel guard/bar on top the shower screen.

Not sure what he mean, I just told him to go ahead with that.

 

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My contractor told me that to prevent the shower screen from shaking, he have to install a steel guard/bar on top the shower screen.

Not sure what he mean, I just told him to go ahead with that.

You will only need to do this, if your shower screens are joined at 90degrees. The steel bar suspended from the ceiling will be right above the join.

 

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