jaskel

U can get their address by using yahoo or google search, so hardworking a bit....

To know more about material use for kitchen top, u can go to this forum that I've written about it. http://www. myhometown .sg/Forum/tabid/84/aff/22/aft/152822/afv/topic/Default.aspx (delete the space between the dot)

Solid surface cost $80pfr. So this u can calculate the cost yourself as there is no dimension given by u. Hack and disposal of 2 bathrooms floor and walls should cost u ard $1000. Labour to tiles up 2 bathrooms should be ard $2500 without tiles. Tiles itself may cost u another $2000 depend on the price of tiles u purchased. Labour to install 2 WC and 2 basin is ard $300. Shower kerb is ard $150 each. Shower screen is ard $400 each. The 2 main issue is which carpenter will want to put the wood on your kitchen top for your solid surface. And the other one is whether the hod u buy will be able to fit in not, due to the dimension and the concrete u r having now (the thickness of the hod may be 50-80mm and solid surface is only 12mm thick even adding the wood is only 22mm thick, so does that mean the concrete support need to cut a hole for the hod and who dare to do that as there is chances that the whole support may damage.) .

Think your contractor use silicone to fit it for u the last time. U can actually drill 2 holes at the side of the inner walls of your rubbish chute and screw it.

Its a small small project, to others it means either they can't earn much (might as well don't do) or they will quote high. Cos, earning $500 and need to coordinate and monitor for 2 weeks, transport itself is already take up more than half of the profit, not to factor in bring u to selected the tiles, coordinate, rectify works if any, buying material, the no. of times meeting the owner, etc....

Is possible, if u see the Straits Times Classified Ads, u will see some carpenter offer direct factory carpentry, $45-$60pfr kitchen cabinet....cheap but the material and workmanship s***.

Use cutting edges but it don't come cheap.

Is not no experience, I don't think any one had done it before. A cheap way to solve the problem is to add in the rubber U tube at the edges of the door. This is usually seen in the shower screen glass door. Putting it below will surely reduce the fast motion but the opening is also will be a bit difficult too.

3yrs~10yrs also have.

Not used, saw can?

Maybe because u ask for plastering only, didn't ask for hacking, so they didn't hack lor.

Due to our humid weather and the building movement, there sure be hairline cracks occur. Even for plastering, same. Why HDB flats build those ugly groove lines at the walls have their purpose for it.

Without dimension, material, sometimes is hard for others to gauge. So I provided a est. dimension for easy calculation and estimation on your budget. Btw, plumbling($1000) and hacking of whole house($3400) is not included.

$3k powder coated with tinted glass, $1.5K powder coated Alum. grilles.

Some chain reaction of effect that the owners need to know before hand before they look for their own suppliers.

Retail price to hse owners, contractor's price to contractor...contractor then mark up to retail price, and can be higher a bit or lower a bit, but they will do the coordination on when to come in, while doing, the workers may damage what, such as window, the workers will damage the walls surrounding it and the contractor will patch it back, throw the debris, clean the area. U coordinate yourself, u will need to patch it back, if not ask the window installers to patch it back which they may not do a good jobs on it, clean yourself and if need to paint the surrounding walls after the patching.

In Singapore, there is no one know how to do a proper cement flooring without cracking.

As I do not know your dimension of the area u doing false ceiling, I can't comment much on it. But seriously, I had not done a whole hse that need $3K false ceiling before, only landed property. As for carpentry, it was the design that is hard to gauge the amount. I do not know your design, by looking at the quote cant comment at all. Cos by ft itself and anything that is added such as tinted mirror, tempered glass, blum runners n hinges, etc...all this add up to the cost too. Hope u understand my position, I also don't want to spoil your ID ricebowl. If u feel its really unreasonable pricing, but u still like the ID, maybe just ask for some discount. Sometime, spending a bit more and the ID is responsible and trustworthy is worth the price.

U r welcome. Maybe becos I had help some of the victims here, that why I felt it for the owners. To me, IDs do quote more ex than a contractor. At seeing your quote from an ID, I do expect that is the amount. But when signing of contract, things need to be clearly stated so as to avoid for future misunderstanding. 3 working days for the approval of reno work permit.

There are 2 ways of doing it. 1 is what ngunadi said, the other one is the glass backsplash is install with the cutting of holes for the electrical socket then follow by installing the socket with screws.

U r right, that the market practice. Yes the contractor apply the permit for the ID and not going to the jobs sites. Anything done illegally, they are still responsible not the ID. Even if he goes to the jobs sites, he still not the one doing, it was still the sub-cons doing, he only coordinate or monitor they are doing the right things. Take eg. of one of the forumer here, she engaged a contractor, the contractor is not licence holder, so he asked another licence contractor to apply the permit for him. HDB inspector came and inspect, saw illegal things done, asked the owner to hack it, reapply permit and redo it again. I arranged a meeting with the contractor who apply the permit to solve the issue cos he will be getting deduction of points and fine if he didn't solve the problems and not a single cent needed to pay him to solve the problems, even if got to hack and redo it again. Same for ID, they only coordinate and monitor. Licence contractors only apply permit, they are not the one doing the jobs. They are given the licence becos of their experience over the 3 yrs of doing the right things on the right time at the right place (following HDB criteria on becoming a registered contractor).

U doing any hacking? If not, $13K for overlay of living, dining and 3 bedrooms may be a bit too much. It cost ard $6K to overlay for these areas and if you select tiles of $3psf only, it will cost u ard $3.5K~ $4K. Providing sand and haulage service of $1050 is also a bit ex. but the total come out to be ard $32K only not $50K unless there are still items u had not posted up.

Normally, painter using Nippon Matex for all ceilings. Some using ICI Mouldguard for bathrooms and kitchen.

For painting, ICI emulsion paint...can be Pentalite and also can be others. A 5L pentalite paint and a 20L emulsion paint can cost almost the same price. So when painter quote cheap, they can be giving emulsion paint only which is a 20L can type (lowest and cheapest quality of paint). Eg, Nippon Matex 20L compare to Easy Wash both also have pure white colour. So u get it...what paint he/she is providing, Wash n Wear, Dulux All, Light & Space, etc... For wardrobe, there is price different, if casement is $200pfr, sliding might be $220pfr. For granite, beside price different of about $50 more pfr, the thickness also got different. Hacking, usually is a one lump sum, but dismantling of air-con is FOC cos, they can sell it away. Mostly your air-con installer will do it for u. Dismantling of wiring is also done by your electrician not the hacker. If u rewiring the whole hse, this item is also FOC. Your windows are also not done by the hacker, it got to be done by the window contractor that the ID engaged, so this item also FOC. All this was added in is to make the quotation look nice and also responsibility, cos without included all this in, they can said u didn't ask them to do. So your actually hacking and demolish cost are the rest and its consider reasonable from a ID quote. Cos by right, the hacker will quote everything that need to hack as 1 lump sum such as toilet flooring and walls, kitchen cabinet, etc...but in this case, your ID just spread it out and itemize it. This way, is hard to for owners to compare item by item. Mostly, I advised owners to compare apple with apple (quoting the same, eg. all quotes $3psf tiles, not this quote give $2.80psf, that quote give $3.20psf, not here give 5 colours all type of paint, there give 10 colours but only Pentalite paint, etc...), that's mean see the total amount without the carpentry (design, material used maybe different, so is the cost). Then this way is the real comparison for quotation. As for dimension I'm looking at are the living (psf), item 4.2 low cabinet, both bathroom (psf), granite top (pfr), etc... quite a lot but regardless. I believe the ID also want to make a living, as long as he/she is not those irresponsible type, the quality of material and the workmanship is good, paying a little bit more may be worth it then saving a few thousands. If u would to read on other threads on contractors or ID here, u will see that some may give a good quote, but in the end, run away with jobs not done or half done. In the end, the hse owners is not only paying more to get others to complete it, but the amount of time wasted, anger suffer, etc...all this is even more than the few thousands that the house owners trying to save in the 1st place. So my advise to all is regardless whether is an ID or a contractor, registered HDB or not, cheap or expensive, most importantly, the person doing up your hse must be trustworthy, responsible and treat it like doing his/her own hse. Cos in this way, the standard will not be too bad. But hse owner should also don't be asking for too much cos to u all, u may think u paid for it or u expect it to be this way, whereas the market practice doesn't do so. Eg, laying of electrical trucking, electrician don't silicone the gap, I know its ugly to see the gap between the trucking and the wall but the practice is that they don't do it. Waterproofing the walls' tiles in the bathroom, only the bottom 100mm is doing waterproofing, the rest is not. Plastering the walls should be straight which in actual case, plastering the walls is only to make it smooth only, etc.... Being a hse owner, I had met bad contractors, being a contractor now, I also had met 100% perfectionist hse owners. So being on both sides of it, I understand how the hse owner and the contractor feel. In a reno, there is no 100% perfect, achieving 80~90% is consider very good already. Being a layman for some hse owners, u all can ask for advise or help here b4 u start to scold or expect your ID/contractor to do this or that cos sometimes u may not know that is the way things done. Afterall they are still human beings and human beings have ego and they do sometimes make a mistake, as long as they rectify and admit it rather than pushing it away, they are consider responsible and good.

So a ID roles is to design, give u 3D drawings, project management your reno, he/she is not the contractor who hack your flooring or doing tiling works. He/she only coordinate, make sure the contractor he/she is using is registered contractor and ensuring they didn't do any illegal works not according to HDB rules and regulations. U pay the ID for his/her project management, coordination, advises and 3D Drawings only. Even doing carpentry works, plumbering, electrical, false ceiling, etc...u don't need a HDB permit to do so.