My air con was installed 5 months ago and now one of the unit is leaking from the pipe connecting to the unit. This has caused damage to the rectangular pipe cover which have been painted. Will like to ask will Gain City be liable for the damages caused to other parts of the reno works due to their installation problem?

Sigh, now not only is the installation farked up, the service from the GC HQ also **** terok.

Care to elaborate more?

I just purchased and installed aircon from GC.

Their service might not be the best but still acceptable.

The installers came yesterday and said that the aircon unit is not leaking. Then i ask him how come the trunking is wet and they cannot explain. Then they say that the aircon fan speed cannot be lowered, must be set at max. If not will leak. I was like WTF?! What kinda explanation is it. Called their manager and she agreed that the explanation is ridiculous and she will check with the more senior people. 5 mins later she called and tell me that all she asked said the same thing. So now i guess its not GC's problem but Mitsubishi Starmex issue.

Care to elaborate more?

I just purchased and installed aircon from GC.

Their service might not be the best but still acceptable.

now i understand your problem. i guess you are 1 of the 1000 aircon works that GC screwed up? so far, i have not read many negative comments with GC.

hopefully my aircon is ok. just completed my 1st installation

by the way, you mean got leaking on your metal enclosure? just keep on pressing im sure they will get the problem recitified

Are you saying now it's a defect in Mitsubishi Starmex?

If the aircon fan is lowered, why it would cause the trunking to be wet? weird.

The installers came yesterday and said that the aircon unit is not leaking. Then i ask him how come the trunking is wet and they cannot explain. Then they say that the aircon fan speed cannot be lowered, must be set at max. If not will leak. I was like WTF?! What kinda explanation is it. Called their manager and she agreed that the explanation is ridiculous and she will check with the more senior people. 5 mins later she called and tell me that all she asked said the same thing. So now i guess its not GC's problem but Mitsubishi Starmex issue.

If temp set to max low, compressor is running full load, pumping max refrigerant to indoor unit.

If fan speed is set to low, then the air flowing through indoor unit is very small, not enough heat exchange takes place.

The cold refridgerant is sent back to the compressor, when this is normally suppose to be a hot pipe.

But this problem results in the outdoor unit sweating.

when u set for a low temp, u must balance the airflow, becuase too much refrigerant being sent to the indoor unit will result in the pipe sweating. The aircon got an Auto setting for the fan speed, and this will solve the problem.

U can consider changing to 3/4 inch insulation, but that means the trunking is the size of a shoebox.

yoongf then in that case why is it leaking only near the pipe connecting to the fan? should it leak along the pipes also?

and can experiment the same setting in the other room. if same problem, then i think its understandable. but if just 1 room got problem, something is wrong with the connection?

What "fan" are u refering to? There are fans in the indoor unit and also the outdoor unit.

When u say "leaking", are u referring to sweating, peeing, or simple damp stains.

Sweating usually means compressor overworking, peeing means condensate pipe is leaking. Damp stains could be due to improper/ insufficient insulation at the joints.

Multi split systems have priority cooling functions, meaning the major room will get higher assurance of cooling compared to other rooms. If the computer does not show any fault codes, then there is little ground to say that something is wrong.

Agree with Yoongf, cannot compare all room to be equal, if 1 leak, all must leak.'

cos the pipe length, and layout, air con fan placement and human operation are also all different.

i also got gain city to install hitachi sys 4 5 mths ago.

Also gas leak! Thought they are supposedly the best in this line but also KNS.

i also got gain city to install hitachi sys 4 5 mths ago.

Also gas leak! Thought they are supposedly the best in this line but also KNS.

Woah, how did you find out it's gas leak?

Did they come to repair it for you ?

Gas leakage is serious, coolant evaporates, aircon=hotcon. Sure copper pipes got problem.

"sweating" at conduit is the result of condensation of air - copper pipe cold and expose to surrounding air (insulation poorly done). Pipe's temp & insulation outer(ambience) layer's temp difference best not exceed 10 degC.

I insisted the installation team use whole roll of fresh copper pipe, no joint of pipe in between(will cause coolant leakage easily). I supervised myself the whole day long. Making sure they use the right size of insulation tube, observed how they bent the copper pipe. Instruct them the locations for the FCUs, how to route the drainage pipe (slowing slope down-gravititional force) to tiolet.

I tested myself, removed all trunking covers, on compressor & all FCUs to 20 degC, full fan speed, all windows open, for 30 minutes. Observed insulation pipes any condensation, hear compressor any "funny" sound. Test passed, if condensation found, I would ask them to change the insulation to my satisfactory. Test done before capentry was up.

Edited April 20, 201016 yr by bepgof

Gas leakage is serious, coolant evaporates, aircon=hotcon. Sure copper pipes got problem.

"sweating" at conduit is the result of condensation of air - copper pipe cold and expose to surrounding air (insulation poorly done). Pipe's temp & insulation outer(ambience) layer's temp difference best not exceed 10 degC.

I insisted the installation team use whole roll of fresh copper pipe, no joint of pipe in between(will cause coolant leakage easily). I supervised myself the whole day long. Making sure they use the right size of insulation tube, observed how they bent the copper pipe. Instruct them the locations for the FCUs, how to route the drainage pipe (slowing slope down-gravititional force) to tiolet.

I tested myself, removed all trunking covers, on compressor & all FCUs to 20 degC, full fan speed, all windows open, for 30 minutes. Observed insulation pipes any condensation, hear compressor any "funny" sound. Test passed, if condensation found, I would ask them to change the insulation to my satisfactory. Test done before capentry was up.

Hey dude, did you get yours from GC? Just wondering how you got them to change insulation the 2nd time around. Did they charge extra or tell you they can't do that blah blah blah?

Thanks!